You can order in a bike to an Evans store over the phone – the only phone order they will do. Doesn’t change that you’ve got a fair distance to go to check it out, but it might help a little. I’m curious to hear peoples feedback about them – seriously considering selling my road bike and picking up one of these instead.

Very slightly narrower I would say. I tried on both the m200s and terraduros in size 42, and the shimanos felt a little bit loose and had some heel slip, while the giros could have been custom molded to my feet – they felt perfectly snug everywhere. I guess I have quite narrow feet compared to most people though, so YMMV.

All my previous shimano shoes have been great feature wise, but always felt a bit loose and slipped around a little more than I would like.

Maybe they’re from a shop that mark some of their items as OE? Evans do for example. To answer your question, I guess that not all OE tyres are the crummy plastic compound ones, some manufactures do spec decent tyres.

It looks like you could fit a side cage in there, though maybe only with a 500ml bottle. Clearly the solution is to grow a bit more and buy a bigger frame.

Unless you desperately need the space, go for the one with the larger tank. I’ve got a 6 litre one because I don’t have much room to store it and all i’m doing is seating mtb tyres. The larger one will be a lot more versatile and will go a lot further for motorcycle tyres.

I don’t think it would even be possible for a stealth post cable to rattle. On my nukeproof it’s clamped on the downtube right before it enters the seat tube, and the post holds the cable directly in the middle of the tube. It also only has to go a very short distance inside the tube, it’s not like loose internal routing for gears or anything.

A completely waterproof pair is just going to fill up with sweat, leaving your hands wet at the end of the day. What you need to find is some that shrug off some of the water, but stay warm all the same.

The only pair I’ve found that work for me are scott minus gloves. Super thin, but have a windproof layer in the top. Definitely not 100% waterproof, but they keep my hands warm, especially with a thin liner glove for really cold days, and I always used to suffer badly with numb fingers and cold hands.

Thick endura waterproof gloves always seemed to soak up water and stay cold, while giving no bar feel thanks to all the squishy padding in them, but YMMV.

£15 seems silly steep prices, but maybe a legit reason is if you need to send your reverb off to be serviced or sell it and you want a box it’ll fit in nicely?

Also, if you buy an empty box does it come in a bigger box?

Here’s an actual guide instead of some snark.

Basically, bottom ones first, then top ones, all to 5nm.

Perfectly safe to use, the seal isn’t structural. You could take the seals out of all your bearings and still ride if you wanted to.

Pretty much every aluminium bar that is a decent width is going to weight at least 300g. Comparable carbon bars usually cost twice as much, and my bars all have plenty of scratches in them that would make me wary if they weren’t aluminium.

If you can find a similar bar that is 780mm wide, aluminium, that you would put on a downhill bike without a second thought, costs ~£60 AND weighs 200g then I would like to know about it.

or alternatively the workshop is where people trust you to fix their bikes, and a good workshop will be busy all year round, this regular work helps the shops cash flow as it is not tying money up in stock.

Honestly, after working in Evans for a while, it seems their business model was more like what Rorschach said. Although it felt like their job was 90% to just build new bikes that turned up in boxes, 9% pre-planned services, and 1% odd repair jobs. Even when working there I took my bike to a different shop to get any spannering done that I couldn’t do myself. Every other bike shop did mechanic stuff cheaper, faster, and without having to book in and put a million details into the system.

Stanton switchback or sherpa? Have the option of a build kit, though personally I would go custom as well for 2k.

Never ridden one, but to my eyes it just doesn’t look like a good tread design? What with that angled braking edge, no side channel and strangely pointed edge blocks inbetween the cup shaped ones. Why not just go for a HR2, a tyre that is definitely good, since it has a flat braking edge and the cornering blocks off a minion.

Or maybe wait for those prototype maxxis rock razor copies to come out

My gym just shared a post about the dangers of focusing too much on what the scale says. It’s maybe more relevant to people who are lifting weights, and therefore (hopefully) increasing muscle as well as losing fat, but I think the message is still a good one.

“I’ve just witnessed the ?#?SadStep? in full effect & I feel it needs to be discussed as so many people still let this determine their progress. 2 girls in my gym just finished a workout & were laughing and giggling all the way over to the water fountain. Clearly feeling awesome & proud after a tough workout. They then both stood & watched each other as they stood on the scales 3 times. I kid you not the step sucked any sense of achievement from within their soul & swapped it for a day of sadness & disappointment!

This step is one of the reasons so many people lose motivation and focus on a training or nutrition plan. I have clients who have completely transformed their body over 90 days and only seen a 2lb loss on the #SadStep The scales cannot measure your fitness, your energy, your sense of achievement or changes in your body composition. The best thing anyone can do is throw the away. It’s a negative hype that you don’t need in your life. Focus on yourself and your journey to getting fitter and stronger. Use photos to track your progress because even in the mirror we can trick ourselves into think we are not changing! You are making progress and you are melting fat so be consistent and don’t give up. Fat loss is a journey not a race.”

I dunno, I’ve got a 2.25@ x 26″ on the back of a hardtail at 25psi, and I’ve found it to be great, you just have to accept that it’s going to slide absolutely everywhere. I’m not sure I’d want it on a long travel bike, and definitely not as a front tyre. Having a supertacky minion on the front means assured cornering with a fun slide on the back, which works pretty well.

High rollers have some incredible cornering blocks if you’re ok with the dead zone when you transition, so maybe try something a bit meatier on the front?

It’s not a bad article, and shows how easily most locks can be defeated, but for a true guide to locking your bike securely, look no further than the LFGSS[/url] thread.

VitalMTB said: Weight: 641g (arms, axle and 34t spiderless ring)
Compared with ~600g for xt cranks with no ring on them, so pretty much similar weights to shimano?

If you are at all serious about weightlifting, especially olympic lifts, then get a pair and wear them.

Ride it until you know if you like it or not, then spend the money for a better damper.

OR sell them right now and get pikes instead, because pikes are well gid.

OR just ride them until they break and then get something nicer? Unpopular opinion, I know.

New style mega on a thule 591 here, fits perfectly but the clamp has started to wear the paint on the downtube, so some helitape is advisable if you get one.

It’ll be absolutely fine, I’ve finished plenty on mountain biking rides with a spoke missing, and I’m still alive to tell the tale of how it made no perceptible difference at all (short term, obviously a wheel with all its spokes is better).

The golf course trails at Innerleithen, I’d especially recommend Jawbone, Splash and Dash, and Community Service.

They don’t provide much protection on road, and I suspect it would fall off immediately off road.
Like everyone’s said, there’s too much crap spraying in all directions when you’re riding through mud that you get soaked and filthy anyway.

It’s muddy all over, but really not that bad on the way up. Mud tyres certainly recommended, and enjoying sliding around on death-trap roots in corners. The conditions aren’t terrible though (lone wolf aside). You’ll struggle to find anything good though without a guide, unless you’re willing to study up on any maps + strava data you can find, and then be preapred to explore a little. If you don’t know the area, you would be better off going to main inners where the DH trails are marked + cope well in all weathers while still being difficult.

If you still want to go, check out trailforks and the EWS map to get you started. Like everyone has said, the trails are made for occasional use, and turn into a sloppy mess when they get ridden too much in the rain, but what are you gonna do? They’re almost all on strava, and races are held there all the time, which kills them far more than people riding at the weekend for fun.

Almost no difference in weight, comes down entirely if you think the extra money is worth it for the bottom bracket and your crank to say XT.

In a rough scale of slim to slightly less slim:
Raceface Indy, Troy Lee KG5400, Dainese Trailskins, IXS flow
There’s quite a lot of breathable, ride all day pads these days, just pick where you want to compromise on protection/comfort/size.

Did you use a torque wrench, or did you just figure ‘that’s good enough’?

Too personal a thing to give recommendations for, even if you said what saddle you had before and did you like the shape + width. Get measured, see if shops will lend you demo saddles, find one that fits best.

I’m a little shorter than that, and use 175 simply because it’s the ‘standard’. In reality, I don’t think crank length is that important. Go shorter if you’re getting lots of pedal strikes, otherwise 175 is fine.

I got a hope + flow EX set from them, though I’m not sure if it was built by them or by hope. The rear lost a lot of tension after a couple of rides, and CRC took it back no questions asked and fixed it beautifully, and returned it quickly as well. So they stand behind what they sell in any case.

Deltron 3030

Handsome boy modelling school

Yes

None of this is ‘new’ exactly, but try:

Common – Resurrection
Jurassic 5 – J 5
Mos Def – The Ecstatic
Black Star – Mos Def and Talib Kweli are Black Star
Nas – Illmatic
Madvillain – Madvillainy

Scott minus gloves – windstopper back, all one layer, 0 padding with thin palm (possibly clarino?). I tend to get very cold hands, and have found these to be really excellent. They do fit very snug. so size up if you want to wear a liner glove underneath for proper winter.

Check the shimano website, they should have a tech doc that breaks down and numbers every single bit, but as you’ve found out there’s no guarantee it will be a cost effective replacement.

EDIT: Here we go here’s the parts list for a 7700 caliper, they list it as Y-8FA 98100 “Quick release assembly”, similar to what you found for a 7900. You won’t be able to order just a plastic lever from madison.

I did ashtanga once a week for a couple of months, but quit because I felt bored by it. I wasn’t going often enough to get any progress out of it, so I never felt motivated to get more often and improve. Especially since chucking iron around at the gym feels like an absolute blast and it’s easy to measure progress. Didn’t help that the class was a bit too “mystic” for my liking.

You should’ve put carbon paste in there when you installed it in the first place, user error.

Agree with everyone else here – either do it properly or don’t do it at all.

If it’s that big of a deal, then just ‘accidentally’ have a big crash right before the event, and break a limb of your choosing. Sympathy from the wife + no more having to play dress-up.

It’s probably because a tyre mold costs the same for fat tyres and normal mtb tyres, but they sell far fewer fat tyres, so they have to charge more to recoup that cost.

It’s a celebration of the absolute best stuff you can buy in mountain biking, duh it’s all expensive. What were you expecting? I don’t want to read WMB’s top 100 best value sensible and dull components where they blather about how deore is really very good or why a genesis hardtail is all the bike you will ever need. It might be true, but I want to drool and lust after the shiniest most high-performance kit that can possibly be made and dream about one day owning that carbon superbike. I read it to indulge my fantasies, and see what technology and trick bits will eventually reach a price that I can afford.

It’s possible, but beware that the axle to crown length of the new 29″ fork might be longer than the frame was originally designed for, and the extra leverage snaps the headtube off.