One of the reasons BMX bars can still be 22.2 is that they have a brace in them, and that takes away some of the stress placed on small diameter bars.

I think they look pretty good, and they seem mainly focused for downhill riders, so it won’t be affecting my bike for a little while…

I think that link means that they are 8.5mm thinner than the old DX pedals, which were pretty thick.

E thirteen XCX for just an upper guide

Transition bandit, yeti ASR5, orange ST4, giant trance, specialized camber. Almost any trail-ey hardtail you can find.

I’m assuming he means switching from just an upper guide, to something like the ethirteen LG1, which has both an upper and lower guide for a single chainring. The stinger isn’t a suitable fix, because it’s designed for a dual ring setup, so it won’t be that effective.

LG1+ would be my choice, it has a little adapter plate which goes onto the BB, and then the guide bolts onto it. It seems to work pretty well according to the people I know who have one.

Hijacking the thread a little bit, has anyone put a 20mm adapter onto the front hub? I bashed the spacer in on top as best as I could, but both sides are still loose, with a fair bit of play. Do I just need a better fitting socket to get it pushed in further, or is this normal?

I just ride with kyle strait knee pads, which are not incredibly bulky, but noticeable on long climbs. I feel like they’re worth the compromise for the downs though, where I don’t even notice them, yet still feel like they give me some well needed confidence.

E thirteen XCX is twice the price of the superstar equivalent, and about ten bajillion times as good. The superstar ones are noisy, fragile, and don’t keep the chain on properly, even with a dedicated single ring.

I don’t bother with an other ring bashguard, simply because I don’t like the look of them, but if I was going to upgrade to a full retention chain device, I’d pick something up that had a little taco at the bottom.

The 2012 freehub is not particularly quiet, not quite as loud as a hope, but almost. I like it, but it might put some people off. The 2012 ones also can be changed to a thru-axle, so they no longer have the flexing problem even with a 9mm skewer. Mine went up no problem with a trackpump and the right tires for tubeless.

I’ve had mine since December, and the bearing are running as smoothly as when I bought them, but if you take the end caps off, the bearings are fairly open, so I can understand if they get worn quickly in really mucky weather.

I’ve got mine tubeless, but even when I did have tubes in they still felt like a wonderfully stiff and light wheelset. There isn’t a huge amount of engagement compared to something like chris king hubs, but it hasn’t bothered me, it’s fine for everyday riding. The straight pull spokes might potentially be a little harder to find and/or true, but they’ve been flawless so far, no noises or movement in the slightest.

Considering the 50% off deal, that was crazy good value for them.

E thirteen xcx.

Running a 38 tooth chainring seems a little excessive – that’s cross country world cup size.

Most people run a 32 or a 34.

Rebas if you can get them second hand or at a sale price, otherwise toras would be the next one down. I doubt you would be able to get fox floats for that price, and I’ve not heard anything about shorter travel zocchis. Maybe look into x fusion as well? Most of what I’ve heard has been positive.

Or do a search online for that model and year, and see if anywhere else online stocks it – I wouldn’t buy a hanger unless it specifically said it was for that model.

Rockshox revs? Half price from on one, and you could reduce the travel if the frame can’t take 150mm.

I’m not sure if the old levers will work with the new calipers, since the levers had a re-design. It might work, just not as effectively as a matched set would.

That bus video was all filmed in my local area, and it’s scary when cyclists think they can turn left at the same time as the bus. Some poor bus driver decisions in there, but also some awful cycling.

Send an email to intense, they’ll be able to give you a definitive answer.

The question of whether 9 speed chainrings are compatible is a bit iffy, they seem to work fine in practice, but in theory the front shifting shouldn’t be as good.

They should just bolt straight on to the avid mounts without a problem.

Apparently it’s fairly easy to swap the hoses round, the “PSA xt brakes thread” has a good guide in it, and at that price, it’s a no brainer really.

I think people have said that the clearance is tight, but it still clears.

I’m sure someone will be along in a minute to tell you that superstar rotors are rubbish and to buy hope/shimano/avid ones instead. (I’ve never tried superstar rotors).

Sheldon as always has a good article about why crank length really doesn’t matter, especially on any bike with gears. Just stick to 175 or thereabouts.

See if anywhere nearby you runs a fix your own session that you could either go to, or help out at – I worked at one last summer and it taught me a lot about bike maintenance, especially older bits and bobs.

I’ve used rocket rons in the lakes and the peaks without any problems, but I’m pretty light on kit, and I did still manage to put a small mysterious hole in one of mine, which I discovered when I tried to make it tubeless. If you’re worried about them, then you’d probably be better off with a weightier tire.

The 780s are 10 speed only now.

I don’t know about crank compatibility, but since a few people on here have run 9 speed rings with 10 speed at the back, it’s probably ok. Ymmv.

I haven’t snapped mine, but it doesn’t hold the post particularly well, even when done up so tight it would barely close. Nicely made, but the lever needs to be bigger. I’m going to replace mine in the next couple of weeks with a salsa one and see if that’s any better.

If the hub is designed to be converted then it’s easy enough, otherwise I don’t think it’s possible, bar having something custom machined. You should email the hub manufacturer and ask them just to be sure.

If you go for hope they work with any other brand of rotor, just make sure that the rotor is the appropriate size (160, 183 or 203). They’re still as user serviceable as always, with all the spares available from hope.

Don’t offset bushes adjust the geometry in other ways as well? Lower bottom bracket etc. Might be worth looking into though.

If they aren’t contaminated there’s no real need to change, but sanding them down a little and burning them in again should help put the grabbiness back into them.

On the latter subject, the mechanism in the 530s and 785s are exactly the same, so they’re equally as easy to clip in and out of. 530s are just a little heavier, and cheaper obviously.

I’m around 5′ 7″ and I find my 2004 medium stumpy just a teeny bit too big, with an inline seatpost and 70mm stem. Like stumpy01 says the standover height is not fantastic. Entirely possible that I just have a weird body shape though.

I would say one of the chrome mini-metro/citizen/metropolis ones but if you really need a handle, they don’t have one.

Take a gander through Chrome bags and see if any take your fancy, my citizen gets used every single day, is incredibly well made, lined with waterproof tarp, and just generally brilliant. Expensive, but I couldn’t recommend mine enough.

Try adjusting your bar angle as well (assuming riser bars), it might not entirely solve the problem, but at least it’s free.

Pull the cassette off and check the freehub if the cassette is moving a little bit, when I did it turned out that the freehub bolt had snapped in half, new freehub body fixed the cassette movement, but mine never made an odd clicking sound.

According the forums, it might be a little trickier to get the front mech and everything dialled in, but certainly not impossible.