If it has outboard bearings, then it sounds like it’s been spaced incorrectly. Measure the width of the bottom bracket shell on the frame, and then look up the correct spacing for it. Also, if the crank arms have fallen off several times, then you’ll need to check for wear on either the crank axle or inside the left crank when it tightens on. From the sound of it, he’ll have a set of cranks where the axle is one size only.

E-thirteen xcx is worth every penny. Superstar might be cheaper, but is noisier and doesn’t work as well.

I’m running 1×9, and it did rub a little a first, but after some experimentation with spacers I got it just fine. Just be prepared for a little bit of effort setting up, you’ll get pretty handy with a bb spanner.

I switched from a set of 9mm qr forks to some 36s with a 20mm axle, and they’re definitely much stiffer fore and aft. How much of that is due to bigger stanchions versus massive axle is debatable, but I find that the complete confidence that there is no way my wheel could possibly come out lets ride faster without those niggling little doubts in the back of my mind.

Open ended quick releases are just a bit sub-optimal for mountain biking, and I look forward to the days when they’re a niche option only.

Any PM -> PM 180mm front adapter will do, I’ve got a superstar one on my bike that seems to do the job just fine. Formula prices are outrageous, and they’re not in any way special adapters.

I’ve got the exact same one fitted to my five, and while it can’t be rotated quite as far forward as I would like, it clears the swingarm just fine, and still works flawlessly, any dropped chains just get pedaled right back on.

Motorcycle bars, specifically motocross ones are a mere 22.2mm, but they have a cross brace which allows for more strength than diameter alone would suggest. Given that mountain bikers tend to like low rise bars, and balk at weight, cross braces just aren’t an option, hence 25.4 and now 31.8. Also remember that while 31.8 bars might be heavier than 25.4, they will also be wider and stronger, and that’s a trade off most people are willing to make, especially now that we can have carbon bars.

I wish that 12mm rear axles were on every bike, just for the peace of mind rather than any nebulous stiffness arguments.

Sanding down pads is a pretty common way to try and remove glaze/contamination/squeal. You’ll be fine unless you actually eat the brake pad shavings.

2.35 high rollers are pretty narrow – I think minions come up about the same or larger in a 2.35 size. Maybe a specialized butcher in 2.3? Some maxxis ones are tall and narrow for their written size, so it’s difficult to find anything as aggressive and grippy in a smaller width. The newer 2.4 high roller 2s are much wider for example.

Is there not some site where the guy is measuring the actual widths of tires?

Comparing offset between forks only makes sense if they have the same axle to crown – a slacker head angle will increase trail. A shorter fork will amplify the effects of having a large offset – the bike will want to fold its wheel underneath every time you turn.

Of course, different people might enjoy having a more direct steering feel. YMMV.

Here’s a guide to what the different things are called.

Calfee[/url] explains all about what they actually do. The more offset a fork has, the less trail – giving faster steering, and a less stable bike at speed, to sum it up briefly.

Looks brilliant, how did you get a set of odi troy lees with gold clamps if you don’t mind me asking? They’re just what I’m looking for.

Any M6 bolt with about 30mm of thread will do, just look on ebay.

If you really want light weight, then you should probably stick to schwalbe, maybe a fat albert? It’s around 600 I think, or possibly a nobby nic, though personally I never got on with nobby nics. You are asking the impossible though, no tyre is going to be tough, grippy and still light.

That really is shame if they don’t come in the box any longer, and at such an extortionate price separately is ridiculous. Try looking around ebay or the various classifieds and see if anyone has a set going cheap.

The usual wisdom is that selling parts individual will net you the greatest overall price, at the cost of increased shipping as you sell more bits. Price seems about right as well, assuming the frame doesn’t have too many major scratches or dents.

I just bought a pair off a mate for around that price, so pretty much spot on.

Did you buy oem ones? Mine came with blanks inside the box, but I bought them at full rrp.

Paul Components Do a lever that pulls two cables at the same time, but I would probably have advised hydraulics as well – far less force required for more braking power than cable pull brakes.

They are brilliant aren’t they? Ordered a set of tyres at 25% off, and they arrived at my house the next day.

Can’t you take a 9 speed deore 12-36 and just replace the 12 tooth with an 11? Not the blingiest cassette, but pretty much the only option.

I’ve run both, and the High Rollers have much thicker sidewalls which seem a lot less liable to flexing or deforming. 2.35s will probably be about the same width as 2.25 NNs, but a little taller. I think I notice the weight increase, but it could really all be in my head.

I’ve been using them on oro k24s for the past year and they’ve been fine, lasted for a decent amount of time, although I burnt through a couple of pairs at a soaking wet relentless 24, though what pad wouldn’t? Have yet to put a pair in my new shimano xts, but I’ve never had any horrendous problems with them.

I have no idea, but you should be able to just pop into your local store and pick some up for a couple of quid, so why take the risk that they don’t fit quite right?

Putting my vote in for maxxis high rollers 2.35 front and rear. Not perfect, but good at almost everything. Heavy, yes, but not too slow rolling, and grippier than the fat alberts and nobby nics I was running before.

There are faster tyres for hard packed smooth ground, but when was the last time you didn’t go through a single patch of mud?

I had a hope for a year and it was awful. Seatpost slipped, clamp could never provide enough torque, the lever was tiny and uncomfortable, and the nut on the other side was sharp enough to slice into my gloves. Replaced in with a salsa that has been utterly flawless and a joy to use. If you value your sanity don’t buy a hope one. Get a salsa or a chromag one.

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It will still run with a few missing ball bearings, especially if you pack some grease in there, but they’ll wear a whole lot faster while some are missing. Up to you whether you want to take the increased wear until you get some new ball bearings into it.

Any single chainring bolt set will do just fine.

+1 for greasing them

Better to destroy discs and brakes, than rims.

Crc has a bunch in the 10% off every 24 hours sale.

It just changes when the lever bites, no effect on modulation or anything. I never really noticed much of a change from it on my old oros.

What would be the point? To get something equivalently good would end up costing you, and that money could be better saved and then spent on servicing the foxes in the future.

The group fork test had everything from the cheapest to the most expensive 140mm forks available to buy these days, and the cheapest got a recommendation – I don’t think they deliberately only test expensive things.

The bit at the bottom isn’t structural, so no problems there. Just measure it all out before you actually file it off, and check clearance by deflating the shock and pushing the suspension as far as it will go.

I rode the course on Wednesday and it seems to be a super fun course, but with plenty of seriously tough, short climbs. It was a little bit torn up, but it’s probably going to get a whole lot worse tomorrow. I wish I had a proper thin mud tyre to throw on the back, but a 2.1 nobby nic is going to have to do.

It should be a blast, apart from feeling most of the time like riding through treacle – next to no fireroad though!

I know that on the longer travel forks (140mm) they have a webbed brace, but as to the compatibility, I’m afraid I don’t have a clue.

I’m doing it, rode the course on Wednesday and a mud tyre at the back is very much recommended. Also it’s a pretty tough course, exciting everywhere, but the climbs are short and steep and need real power to clean.

My old headset required some serious torque to get its loose bearings preloaded, and it would make some nasty sounding cracks, but was still absolutely fine, so I don’t think there’s anything to worry about.