Just a quick bump as I’ll be ordering a bit later.

Had an answer off another forum (kinda) but to be honest trust your opinions/ knowledge a bit more on here!

Forgot, do I also need Hope part “HUB473”
Linky

I have to say Im an old fashioned type and like to believe people have a similar morality to myself.

Most of the time Im glad to say that Ive not been let down but there have been occasions.

I say the above as Im like the OP to be honest. If I were to borrow something (anything) from someone it would be under my own terms and conditions as much as their own. I mean to say, if I borrowed something and I damaged/ lost it I would be straight on the phone to the person expressing my genuine regret and letting them know I would resolve the problem ASAP at my cost and time.

I suppose the key is to only lend to people that have similar views on such stuff as yourself. Trouble is you dont find that sort of thing out till it has already gone pear shaped.

Hope it all goes well for you anyway my friend. Hopefully it proves to be a moot point and he offers to get it sorted anyway.

Just wanted you to know your not the only person out there that thinks this way!

(Oh, I NEVER borrow stuff more expensive than I could hope to replace or repair if something happens to go wrong on “my watch” either. Thats another self imposed rule I like to live by.)

I am cycling the X3 right now (I mean drain/ charge///repeat…in not out “cycling” lol). Just put it on charge.

Didnt catch it before it went totally flat which isnt ideal…. lion shouldnt be totally flattened so will look into that.

I seem to remember reading the blue LED flashes when getting near flat??

Also that the charging unit LED goes green when charged??

Can anyone confirm either of the above on the X3 unit?

As for the blued power LED, yeah mattyfez, little too bright I reckon.

Black permanent marker at the ready for later, not permanent, just enough to dull their brightness a tad.

So far so good though. Light is nice and compact(iss) on the bars and with some added insulation tape ddoesnt move whatsoever.

If that superstar expander isnt widened at the bottom (like some brands state they are) wont it dig the heck out of a Hope (for instance) alloy freewheel?

Sorry for hijack!

Wont the X2 directly mounted that way transfer a lot of heat into the structure of the lid?

X3 just turned up.

Surprisingly small, both the battery and light, which is a good thing.

Just discharging battery to low to start a couple of cycles.

Very bright….and hot! lol

Battery will be dead esay to stow, was expecting it to be bigger.

Got the X3 from Amazon Prime, next day delivery (and Amazons great customer service should it all go wrong…) for £19.99 plus a free (shonky) rear led light.

No doubt cheaper on Ebay but I prefer Amazon.

I’ve got an x2 and x3 turning up today.

X2 for the lid. Don’t mind middlirng them a bit for any weaknesses that I find.

Might mess around with a defusing lens over over some of the leds. We shall see.

Yeah, I came across the shimano rotor issue whilst googling this problem.

Ended up getting some second-hand 2014 RCT3 Pikes.

Though the Sektors were a real temptation I must admit.

Jeez,

Really?

That said, the SRAM centreline rotors are pretty even in total pad contact area at any one point in the rotation. It’s just the part of the pad in contact during rotation that changes so as to clean them.

Shame about these forks as cosmetically they are near mint. The internals obviously aren’t though…

Been googling and was stunned at how cheap you can get 2016 Sektors for new.

Could get a Sektor and have it tuned by TFT? Loco and still be at a reasonable cost layout.

Looking at the solo air RL.

Not an upgrade from my dual air 2010 Revs, but they would be new and seem to have good reviews?

Has same problem with the DB5 Centerline rotor and an Avid g3 clean sweep type. Cant but help think its the play in the bush thats the problem.

When wedging a finger between fork arch and stanchion then rocking fork I can feel/ hear the play on the brake side leg.

Thanks for comments mate.

A dilemma indeed.

Anyone got an idea of how much TFT or Loco charge (roughly) for actual RS fork tuning?

Just an update for anyone googling this in the future perhaps.

Tried the less is more approach with the 638 and it was perhaps not a good move with the Loctite 638.

Basically it dries far too fast meaning the bearing refuses to go into the bore too well.

In the end, went with Loctite 680 for the bores that were a good fit anyway, as it dries a bit slower and is not quite as thick.

Used the 638 on 2 bores which were a loose fit (not helped by the LBS obviously driving the bearings in at an angle, shaving metal off the bore…)

used a fair amount on the loose fitting bores (638) and all fitted now.

How easy they come out in the future is another matter. lol

Still, one step closer to getting the Attack Trail’s rebuild done.

As always, thanks for the help you guys gave in the responses above!

Thanks for the extra info rocketman.

That’s reassuring to know. Got some on order now. The loctite that is, not a hairdryer! Lol

Onzadog, very true!

To be honest, what concerned me was loctite’s own spec saying that to remove parts assembled with 638 the bonded parts need heating to around 250deg C.

Gulp!

As ever, thanks for info guys.

Thanks mate, appreciated.

Anyone?

Ah, didn’t know that.

Sorted now anyway thanks. All fitted ready for bike.

Thanks again guys!

One pin is alloy, other steel as it’s longer.

Bushing itself is polymer rather than du etc.

This kit here: http://www.tftuned.com/heavy-duty-mount-kit-127mm-m8/p2937

Not used gorrilla tape in wheels but have used it for other stuff.**

Brutally good stickiness.

Best gaffer your I’ve ever bought for sure.

** No kidnappings involved.

Cheers mate, that makes sense.

Pretty sure I shouldn’t grease the pin/bushing interface either so will leave both well alone.

Thanks again!

Thanks mate, thats why Im hoping Lee sees this, unfortunately there is no email in his profile.

Just a bump in case Lee logs in today.

Yeah, Ive already read that but to be honest, I trust first hand opinions on STW more.

Damn.

Lee, you haven’t got an email addy in your profile, so hope you might see this?

Or… does anyone know this guy to contact him for me please?
Cheers.

Northwind, could you see if you have got one spare for sale please?

Mildred, non on fleabay at the mo, used. Missed one by an hour or so a day ago however.

Second hand ones seem not to come up often on ebay and if they have a buy it now price they get snapped up.

Yeah…. Hope were “ok” I guess. Just the lbs wasn’t interested in making one phone call. Hmmm..

Thanks,

Will try lbs. Unfortunately they are pretty rubbish at this sort of thing. Asked them to call hope to get a price on a steel axle for a non evo rear hub a while back. Hope said if a dealer called it it could be sorted no problem. They never even bothered to call.

Just occured to me whats doing it.

Its the 2mm steel spacer between the bearing and the freehub. So the steel is bound to eat into the alloy axle a bit over time I guess.

Righto, cheers.

If your axle is still going strong with worse scoring I may well just refit it. I’ll see how much LBS quote for it though out of curiosity. Might just fit it in case and keep old one in spares box.

Perhaps im just being paranoid over the issues with the older Pro 2 NON Evo hub and Maxle system.

Have you had similar scoring at that point on an Evo?

Agree, the right tool for the job is the best option definitely.

As usual, trying to save a bit of money is all. Particularly post Christmas.

If I try the nitrogen route I’ll be sure to take pics! (that’s a joke, I wont be trying the nitrogen. Sounds like an interesting method though!)

Hmmm…. good point, might give that a try too, cheers.

Thats handy, just ordered a 24mm to service some Revelations.

Cheers for info!

Great, last question, any idea of socket sizes I need as drifts?

I realise the OD of the socket may be different according to brand, but just want a starting point, cheers again.

Not got them out as yet. Planning ahead…

Pretty confident I can remove them with some improvised drifts. Want to be a bit gentler putting new ones back in though. lol

Yep, deffo 135mm x 12mm.
Thanks again

Great, cheers my friend!