thanks for the reply guys. im do tend to strip the bike down a little to much prob. i like to clean everything up and change the grease in the freehub body every month or so, bike gets used everyday. it seems like this is kind of the normal thing to expect from an alloy hub with steel gears so will not both hope and file down the high spots

thanks for reply guys. i have measured the drop outs on the hemlock and they are 10mm so am going get the end caps and ss axle.

already have the ungraded stiffer seat stays, rockers on order and currenly have the stiffer chain stays on this cotic, it always felt abit loose at the back of the bike when hard in corners, hopefully should be ok after this

What about it?

thanks for the reply, does anyone know if the hope adaptors are just the replacement cups that push into the side of the hub like i had to change when i got new forks? just noticed another thread stating its a complete axle which the bearings sit on?

the only problem is like you said it makes it harder to get the cassette off but working each one with a flat head screw driver and they will come of, they seem to get getting worse and thought it was abit premature with the amount of use the wheels have got for the hub body to get so cut up

i think im going to get me a 872. also want to find a better helmet mount like the one the Exposure Joystick uses

will see what they say next year. the 3 year warranty was a plus when i got these forks at a few months ago, now they are going back for the second time its starting to wear off

unable to mount onm the left underneath with my combo, hope tech levers and xt 10 speed shifters on machmaker mounts :(

It was mentioned on checking preasure. Do you do this fully extened or dropped?

spot on. not sure about to tight tho. was still able to rotate the post in the frame but still the post locked up. using a salsa qr clamp. have rotated the clamp so the lever is at the front and not the side, have it tighter so the post will not rotate and now works fine!

just had a look, preasure was spot on 250psi. on closer inspection it more like 15-20mm that it does not come up at the very end

The threaded part at the bottom what I guess a valve is in was loose. I left it as I wasn’t sure if it was meant to be like that so guessing air has leaked out. Will go sort it

lucky i remembered before fitting it like that and cutting the hose in 2 8O got some clamps coming from rose

somthing that came to my head. you have the longer linkage so routing down the back like that works fine. when you have the shorter linkage like me (think its 120mm?) the small brace at to top of the brake stays will hit the frame slightly when you bottom out very hard

thanks for the info. emailed them today, hopfully they point me in thr right direction.
somthiong is badby is perfect since im staying there!

thanks luket

thanks for the replys. i really like the idea of the clamps from rose>

luket, co you post a pic you your post up and down. intrested in were the extra cable goes in the down position

did a bit more searching and found this. was hoping i wouldnt have to use cable ties on the top tube but cant see another way of doing it, will put a little bit of helicoptor tape on and some thin ties so you dont see them as much

thanks for the reply, didnt think of the stick on cable guides. going to give these a try

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19014

adding to the small list of hemlocks

thanks for the replys, i emailed wight mountain, they said pop into the shop and they will mark some good trails on a map for me

also going to check out

http://www.isleofwightmountainbikecentre.co.uk/

on a few £ and close to were im staying

service, push tune and next day courier was £146

shock turned up today, with all the parts replaced and a letter saying exactly what been done and how its set-up.
took it for a ride today, made the bike totally different, smooth bumps are so much better, rebound is much better, does not bottom out as easy and its really smooth on the fast hits

sorry to hijack your thread but im in the same situation, fitted xt 2×10 on my hemlock, not dropped a chain yet but get a top on chain slap on the real rough stuff. i was going to get a Bionicon V.02 Chain Guide but i also ride the bike to work everyday and didnt want the guide fitted all the time as its going to wear out the plastic block

is the Blackspire Stinger a better option, will need the bb mounted one for the hemlock. is the one in the link bellow the one i need? can i use this without a bash ring

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17282

i saw a video on the marzocchi website, it says if you dont plan to service regular to remove the foam ring under the wiper seal as it will cause slight sticking feeling

just got some 2012 44 rc3, mine state 3 year warrentty weather you service them or not

just done this myself, you need the new matchmaker mounts for xtr. they need to be marked m780-i, then you need to get the shimano i spec conversion kit. this combo works well

test rode these rc3 today and they are a huge improvement over the 130mm talas they replaced. do seem a little bouncy, what are you guys setting your rebound and compression at for general trail riding. my rebound was 7 clicks out from fast and compression was 4 clicks out from soft and it felt good here, did not use the air assist

do you think you could post a few close up pics for me, please :D

just ordered these today

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=83001

seem cheap but didnt read into them to much, just after a decent tyre for general trail use? any good?

managed to get so0me 44 rc3 ti for £530

the newer micro switch ta also have a 3 year warrentty with no service, might try these and if they prove to be bad then sell them

i found sites selling them, but it does not say they stock them, chain reaction say discountined> tf tuned, merlin, wiggle and winstanleys no longer show them on the sites

just went to buy the rc3 ti, they are discontinued. what issues does the ta have?

sorry to hear about your car, i work at a ford main dealer and often we get jobs that are not simple and do drag on for days before we get any progress, the car may have been there for 6 days but no way has it been worked for that amount of time, 8 hours a day. always get pulled off jobs and onto others and jobs get put to one side for abit, since the car is new i wouldnt say it going to be a simple fault. get onto ford customer services, explain how you have only just got this car, prob the second most expencive thing a person could buy its been in the dealer for as long as you have owned it, do this for a few days and they should send a field tech out to the dealer to assist in the diag

good luck

i have the 2012 xt 2×10 setup on my cotic hemlock. the middle ring is very close to the chainstay, just like the picture posted, maybe alittle closer

hope emailed me back, they dont have a clamp for my sl m780 shifters. neither do they have on for these shifters with the i spec conversion. neither do they have mounts for the sl m780 -i which i make out at a normal m780 with the i spec covers?

may be worth getting the i spec and mounts from a shop who will accept returns

i emailed hope about my shifters and they said they dont make the mounts for them. what i can make out from the list posted is the sl m780-1 is my shifters just with the i spec mounts, so after i add them i need the hbsp263 mounts, which i cant find on google:(

thanks, sounds good to me, going to email hope to get them to confirm. last time i asked them they said they had some mounts in the pipe line

no hang about, i will prob change my mind again :D