I used to suffer from migraines and head aches alot, I still get the odd one. Was due to stress and anxiety, would cause sight problems like my eyes flash to the point were I cant see as its so blury, think of driving down a road with low sun shining though trees and sun light flashing through, it was like this, after this it was a migraine every time.
Opticians and an eye expert said nothing wrong with my eyes, after talking with my doctor he pinpointed what in my life caused it and I worked around it and been fine since bar ths odd one now and then.
He did say when I felt a migraine coming to take 4 painkillers instead of 2 and lay in the dark till it passes, can’t remember the reason behind 4 though but ask your doctor what he recommends

I don’t expect to get anything free, I have been honest and said how old they are, how they get used and that im the not the original buyer. in a way I wish they would have lasted longer but its hard to explain to someone about how much use something gets, the brakes are about 4 years old, I get out on the bike around once a month and do a 10 mile loop on flat trails if im lucky. if they was used hard every weekend then I things like this are to be expected. I have not said that even though its out of warranty you need to give me a new one, simply making them aware of the issue I have, might be something they have had before?

the purpose of the thread was asking if anyone had this before?

Have looked into the zee, suprised they are only £40 on crc. Guessing the fr is the wide range option?

Have no plans for trex etc, bike will get used fir Thetford high lodge area and a 3 mile road ride to work now and then, do you think a 34 front is ok for this without spinning out on road?

Is this the forestry carpark closest to church etc? Follow river to the right then go under train tracks? I have seen a tunnel under tracks beford but this came out close to a sandy fire road?

Posted the same thing on timber and it was suggested I ask in the group ride section for some one to show me around.
kind of sound like its not worth going for a while if its rough, I remember it being hard going before and very soft. Just wish I remembered how to get there

Unfortunately no, was never good at map reading. The blue looks cool though

What psi is the op and others running at? I had the same issue, I have s rp23 on a hemlock. Used to blow throw the travel so tf tuned pushed it, made a big difference and it ramped up more. Not rode the bike much now and put 2 stone since. Now at 90kg. I read online that you should set your preside at your weight in pounds, should be around 200psi for me, I think I have 150psi with large volume spacers, in my current state I can’t bottom shock out but it feels spongy like it can’t support my weight so thinking on changing to a medium spacer and upping the pressure?

With pro pedal, in sure when it gets pushed the pro pedal gets disabled,

Who ever changed them would know if head, injectors were damaged as it will mushroom the copper fire washer so you cant remove. If there is an upgrade kit I dont know of it yet. Pcm is powertrain control module, basicaly a computer which runs all engine electronics. The software seems to go out of date often, updates consist of lots of new infomation and fixes for faults etc. These updates fix the stranges of faults. Pcm does contain the injector correction factor codes, if not coded will cause not start, diesel knock, black smoke etc

Im a ford tech in a main dealer, I have seen this bolt snap only once, that van had a new head and injectors as the injectors bouncing up and down smashed the mating surfaces, I have never heard of a repair kit, recall, tsb or fsa.
egr faults are very common, injectors go now an then, if your revs hunt at idle, or bob up and down then I would be looking at a pcm update. Now and then a dodgy imv valve will cause the fuel rail preasure release valve to operate, not likely for you as you have not complained of any other running faults

Timing chain faults seem a thing of the past now, not had one on the new puma engine, timng chain, tensioner and rockers are all different, tensioners failed more on old 2.4.

Should be a small grub screw in the qr knuckle, silver part the lever pivots on, and an 5mm bolt inside the axle

had this on a brand new set of 44 mirco switch ta with the qr 15, around the qr lever there is a very small Allen grub screw, loosen this off, I had to heat with a hair dryer as it has thread lock on. when this is loose get a long 5mm? Allen key and tighten the bolt that is down inside the axle shaft, do it a bit then try in the fork and repeat if needed.

first one I did I didn’t notice the grub screw and snapped the bolt!

Thanks for the info northwind, I was worried about the chain stays, the stinger and bash guard is also £20 cheaper, I have no problem cutting a stinger as its cheap enough. Does much need to be cut out?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=89060

so basically its wears well like the normal Conti but they grip

Tyre in question is a mountain king, i commute to work with a mix of on and off road, was going for a ust but BC is only £5 more. I know the cheap wire bead lasts well but lacks grip. Also read about the knobs coming off?

Its going on a flow which is 25.5mm inner. Hopfully the 2.4 should come up small like the 2.2.
Is rtr black chilli? Are these a softer compound? As I ride on road aswell I can justify loosing some grip for harder wear so I dont need to replace as often

Look into a blackspire defender

thanks for the replies, a couple made me chuckle :lol:
looked into a load of tyres tonight and more confused than ever.
do I really need a ust tyre for what I ride, I don’t ride trail centres etc, just natural terrain to work, hardpacked with roots etc, I want grip but don’t want to wear out fast with im on tarmac. does such a tyre exist?

thanks for the replies, a couple made me chuckle :lol:

I have put the Shimano chain back on and no more slip. Used the kmc quick link. Now have a clicky noise underload which can’t seem to get rid of

i have had problems with creaks on my hemi. first time it was the main pivot bearings above the bb, only creaked when pedelling. the second time was the install of my 2011 120mm rockers like you have, they creaked on the first ride, it was coming from the pivot between the rocker and seat stays, took the rockers off again, bearings out and there is a tube in the centre that rubs inside the rocker, ground the area down and grease this pin it, put it back together and its fine. them chain stays are 2009/10 i think, my 2011 ones are not that beefy

my 2012 44 ti ride well but knock, been to marzocchi italy and windwave for repair but still the same, come from a air fork to a coil, perhaps its normal?, coil hitting the sides etc

Had a thought. If it went on eBay and made £180 like the ones I watched have after eBay and PayPal fees im down to about 160 so will offer it on here for that when it gets back from repair

Mine is with sram at the moment as it had a fault. I owned it for 4 months. Its overkill for east Anglia, 2 flat. I’ve watched a few on eBay over the last few days and they make £180 ish so will stick it on there when it returns

Had a look on crc but couldn’t see it. They were all 249?

Cheers guys have sent it back. Going to sell it when it returns. Its a cool bit of kit but overkil for my riding. How much do these usually make second hand?

Was a crc one. I know it not dropping the the morning is a fault but the notch at the start of the travel? Is that normal? Out of all the reverb owners on here one of them could check there’s and see what its like

I told the post it was shit, didn’t work and its still broken

my 44came back from marzocchi in italy on friday, put them on the bike yesterday and took them for a ride, could not tell if the noise is fixed due to all the snow but they feel much harder, before i could nearly bottom out the fork with the compression on soft now i can only get 100mm travel, took the black cap off and removed the spring and can only compress to 100mm before it locks up. removed the damper cap and compress, after 100mm oil pisses out from the removed cap, so it had to much oil from factory and hydro locked reducing travel. out of the box the springs were not fitted to the wiper seals, not upside down on the bike stand draining the oil, the oil seems very thick compaired to the 7.5w fox oil thats going to go in them

windwave claimed they have not heard of this fault before nor could they find what was causing it, been in italy for 2 weeks now. it started off as a slight knock on small bumps like you said but got alot worse untill i didnt trust riding with them

fixed :-)

i spoke to paul at cotic and he said it wouldnt make a differance, i wanted a new skewer on the back what was a big more bling so if changing that why not tyre a 10mm one.

also running the 2011 chainstays nut should have 2011 seat stays and rockers tomorrow

these turned up yesterday, fitted them today to my hemlock and it all fits fine, not sure if its made it any better as my forks are still in italy :(

Can you use kmc chains on my Shimano xt 10s? Shimano say somthing about the plates improving shifting etc, guessing its a gimic so you only buy there chains

They looked fine, but I don’t know what a new one looks like to compair it with a used one. Do you have a pic of an old and new cam? If its cheap may as well upgrade them. Thinking of braided hoses to? Fitted them to my swore brakes and gave a much firmer lever

They are tech. Everything looked fine when I rebuilt them

Is it ok to use sintered pads in dry and wet conditions?

And done setup as per video, took my time and got it spot on, done this when I installed them after rebuild

ss qr and hope ends ordered, all for just under £20 :)