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Viewing 40 posts - 761 through 800 (of 835 total)
  • Intense Tracer 29 Pro review
  • pjm84
    Free Member

    NHBC Standard 7 – Section 7.2.

    I’ve checked both the 2011 and the 2011 (incorporating 2012 revision – coming into force 1st Jan 2012)

    Interesting. The 2011 mentions soaker, the revision include for soaker and secret gutters and back of parapet gutters etc …..

    Type 1F roofing felt, bitumen, can still be used but not overlapping into gutters. (It breaks down with UV at this point)

    pjm84
    Free Member

    As Wrightyson.

    The photos show, assuming the second is the edge of tile, that there are no soakers or secret gutter. With the high winds and driving rain the detail has a weakness due to the flat roof tiles.

    Photo 1 – Shows the batten abutting the wall. Therefore no space to install the secret gutter. (It takes up this batten zone depth)

    Photo 2 – Shows the edge of tile (and no felt but I assume you’ve pulled this back). Therefore the lead is the apron flashing on top

    As the roof has a flat concrete interlocking tile the lead arrangement is incorrect. If the roof had a profile or rolled tile you could use the this detail i.e detail 3F above. Clearly a bodge with a flat tile.

    NHBC it. They will try and fob you off. Tell then what been mentioned and that you want the arrangement made good in accordance with their standards* and the guidlines of the Lead Sheet Association.

    The cost, done correctly will be in excess of £1200 to put this right.

    The ridge tile looks like a Marley dry vent ridge from the external photo. Note the joints between the two

    http://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Roofing/Concrete-Tiles/Modern-Interlocking-Tile.aspx

    * I will look this information up for you and give you details

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Just looking at my data for last year. Sad

    I rode 968.3km in the month of June 2011 which equates to 41hr 13min and 2sec.

    514.96km on road at a 29.2kph average speed / 453.34km off road @ 19.2 kph average.

    I was still a fat boy for the Marmotte though

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Here’s a better image showing the flashing / secret gutter arrangement. Note the roof felt / membrane is trapped under the edge batten
    Link

    From the inside of the roof you can pull back the hanging down roof felt and see what looks like the underside of the lead flashing.

    Picture? What line is this? Can you see the edge of the roof tiles when you pull the felt away?

    Is the leak localised / trackable (i.e staining in one spot) or general over this area. Does it coincide with the lead overlaps noting the little bit of a “pull away” on one of those flashings. Is it wall related and possibly attribute to the neighbour mortar verge above. Numerous possibilities.

    Whose is the house builder?

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Have a look at this and tell me what arrangement you have. I would expect an abutment flashing / soaker or secret gutter arrangement

    http://www.leadsheet.co.uk/autocad-online-flashings

    It sounds more like a lead problem or detailing problem.

    I wouldn’t bother, just get it fixed.

    I can’t think of any section in the Building Regulations that covers this type of detailing. (Take a look at Approved Document C – Section 6).

    http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADC_2004_NEW.pdf

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Ordered yesterday, here today. What’s going on?

    pjm84
    Free Member

    No good for ladders although you can install additional protection. Although I would not advise putting a ladder off a bay roof even with protection (H&S stuff / disclaimer!)

    Agree the window cleaner going on mine to clean the my roof light. Does make me nervous.

    Depending on the size (particularly if it’s small) and complexity of the roof I would consider the EDPM option. Mine is done in one piece minimising the risk of roll joints.

    Maybe look at a ballasted option to provide protection. I didn’t bother on mine but I did consider this approach. If you’re looking to place a ladder on it I would consider protection with both EDPM and a single ply system such as Sarna as mentioned.

    Check you’ve no restrictions. Generally I would associate this “type of architecture” with a possible Listed Building. Check it’s not to avoid any unneccessary pain.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Yes I have it on my roof over the new extension. My roof is sunken so not viewable.

    If the bay window is exposed I would look at a fleece backed adhered single ply system to minimise ghosting. The Firestone stuff is very thin.

    You can then adhere extrusions to the roof to match the appearance of lead rolls.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    http://www.evanscycles.com/products/campagnolo/power-torque-bb30-86mm-cups-ec025977

    Hmmmm, apologies, there’s BB30 cups available for the Power Torque so you should be okay.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    BB30 is push fit. Campag cups are threaded. The bearings are installed on the axle on the Campag and sit in the cups.

    The systems are totally different.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    About 7000km – 85% off road approx. Not enough

    pjm84
    Free Member

    No to insulation based on limited information.

    It sounds like your loft is a cold roof arrangement. I.e air circulation in the loft space / insulation at the ceiling line.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    I have a Taylor Woodrow house. It’s not bad but it’s not good either. I’ve seen worse, both in the residential and commercial sectors

    It’s the nature of the beast I’m afraid. Sub contractor / tender / cheapest price / contract programme / target programme / re-tender / cheap suppliers / bad detailing / no detailing etc,etc

    Barratts / like most other house builders have preset house designs. Our hands are tied.

    I would take someone around in the profession and do a pragmatic /reasonable snagging list, hand it over and tell them to put it right. I would also do a desktop land review. i.e check out the history of the land prior to the development and proposed substructure solution to rule out any of the major issues…..

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Last year I was quoted £300 + VAT per 3.6m length. Arris rails / loose shiplap boards. No gate

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Sounds like Crittall metal windows. If so I don’t think you will be able to fit friction stays.

    Take a look at the following for some ideas:

    http://www.hafele.co.uk/Hafele35a1/Templates/Hafele/browse.asp?newrecordset=yes&classname=Window+Fittings&classlevel=33&bodyleft=yes&tab=ironmongery

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Takes me a couple of hours to do a set of road wheels but then again I run high tension and aim for very even tension on a wheel build.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    http://www.optimasystems.com/glass-wall-single-glazing.php

    As above. Use a specialist system, readily available via office / demoutable partition specialist.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Taping and jointing. Just hate it. Nice weedy paper /metal corner trim. Durability – zippo.

    http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_accessories/gyproc_corner_tape.aspx

    Have the same issue by my front door from the dogs and going to cover it with some anodised angle trim. Just not man enough for the job.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Hmmm can I get out of my hilly road ride and come and join in with the mud.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Ask for a breakdown from the LA.

    The fees for building regulations have changed and some items are now works specific. The LA will change per sepecific item, i.e a rear extension and a loft extension as two separate items even though the work may be undertaken at the same time and therefore less time consuming as two separate projects.

    If there are two work items / fees and you’re going to carry out the works together then discuss it with the council and you may be intitled to a 50% rebate on the lower fee. I’ve been told it’s discretionary but managed to obtain a rebate in a similar situation early in the year.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    So sad. I have 2 Boxers. One is 10 years old (slow and grey), the other 18 months (Loony).

    Celebrate his life. I’ve been through it with cats and dogs and it’s never easy.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    the gobi is the comfiest seat ive tried by miles, but im

    Massive and weigh in at 17stone. I have them on all my off road bikes apart from the DH but then again I’m not really using the saddle for this one.

    My road bikes have the ARIONE which in comparsion is like sitting on a brick.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Thanks for this…. Just bought a jacket for dog walking!

    pjm84
    Free Member

    My bet, wet muddy with a bit of mud and water thrown in.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Hmmm 6ft 5″, or maybe 6ft 4″ now, and currently 17st 2lb. Maybe more, it’s Christmas.

    My ideal, roadie boy, weight is circa 15st 8lb. Anything less and I’m going backward. However I have no arms at this weight so cannot hang on to my DH or AM bike.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Yep connect to a soil stack….

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Why the insulation board between the heater mat and the screed thermal mass? Doesnt make much sense to me….unless you’re supposed to be using that elec UFH as a “quick” heater as opposed to a background system.

    The heat can go in either direction. Hence the insulation to limit the heat sent / energy lost in the “wrong direction”. Electric UFH does not need to be postioned under screed. Its placed on top of the screed and to reduce the downward heat flow, on top of a suitable insulation product. The 10mm noted above sounds very much like a tile backerboard.

    The thermal mass is a result of traditionally having to cover a wet system with screed to support the floor finish and to protect the pipes. There are however systems available where an wet pipe (floating underfloor systems) is supported within a void under the floor thus doing away with the downside of the thermal mass, and as a result providing a more reactive / responsive system.

    I’m not an Architect.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Been away for a couple of days!

    100mm is the minimum thickness for a concrete ground bearing slab. However with site tolerances this can soon be erroded so that you may end up with 100mm or less.

    Even on my own extension I specified an 150mm slab. Additional Cost on a 16m2 plan area was around an £95. Minimal cost in my eyes.

    Contractor questioned it. Come day of pour he invites me to pop back and check the DPM. While there I ask for levels…. guess what we have around 30mm of tolerance across the subbase!

    pjm84
    Free Member

    +1 on the 150mm concrete slab.

    Not sure if the OP is laying a slab / and screed or just a slab? “Total”?

    My electric UFH is laid over a 6mm tile backerboard to reduce the transfer of heat into the (existing) screed . In this case I was limited with total stack height over the existing floor.

    The starting point would be to speak to the supplier of the UFH mats to see what they recommend. It will be along the lines of a tile backer boards

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Think Baldysquirt forgot to mention about Architectural Technicians.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Varies

    However if you want a good price / good service then give Malc a call at M2 Architecture. They’re based in Fareham.

    Tell him Paul from Southampton sent you.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Merlin….. ordered late late Friday gone, shipped on Monday, arrived this morning.

    CRC – Ordered end of November, shipped 2 weeks later, arrived 7days after shipping (Turned up last Wednesday)

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Yes

    pjm84
    Free Member

    That’s one big dog. If that’s eye view I reckon it’s about 30ft tall. Think I might be a tad nervous.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Jes*s don’t get me on about cats. Mine is pure nasty, screw loose tortiseshell physco. Rules the big bad scary dogs with an iron claw.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    I haven’t been in that situation THANKFULLY but I think if anyone kicked one of my dogs that would be an instant K.O, no questions, no discussion.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Just taken my two dogs for a quick walk to be greeted by 20+ screaming and shouting kids. Did spot one adult with them so assumed they have just come from the Ski centre so a little hyper.

    Wife says shall we turn around. I said no.

    I did think it ironic after this thread.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    Awesome course. Enjoyed 90% of the route. Hated the single track after the tunnel though. Just bogged my 17stone frame down.

    Thanks to the Kenda guy for changing my tyre whilst I took a run back to the car to get my credit card. (Should be the slowest first lap by far)

    pjm84
    Free Member

    It is a difficult one. I have 2 Boxers. One young and one old.

    I will put them on the leads if I see young kids because of the sometimes negative reaction. Generally it’s fine but I’ve had one incident where the women went mad. The dog was no where near her child. I’m sorry to say she got the full vented anger and with her being the best part of 25stone it was her negative side I emphasised

    I’m afraid to say, generally, kids, unlike in my day, seem to have this fear of dogs.

    I’ve also had the opposite which is nice. Recently outside a cafe one day the woman asked if her young son, in a pram, could come and stroke the dogs. It was fine by me.

    Also, I have a park locally. If it’s sunny, or weather that brings families out I’ll take them to the Forest. Once you are 500m away from the parking its nice and quiet.

Viewing 40 posts - 761 through 800 (of 835 total)