That must make up nearly half of the bike’s weight, though it probably reduces wheelspin.

😀

weight of XT 11×1 is about 1800g, weight of 12sp NX groupo is about 2000g.

It might not change my life but it will make riding my bike more fun, which is the whole point, right? There is 200g difference in the cassette alone (620g vs about 420g), which will be noticeable every time I stamp on the pedals, especially since I weigh 60kg. I’ve just grabbed an XT 11-42 11 speed cassette for £60 so even if I change my mind and stick with the NX, it can go on my hardtail next time it needs replaced instead.

I wouldn’t worry about availability if 11 speed , Shimano keep churning out stuff for years.

This seems like a sensible option for an 11-42 cassette (even that will be the highest number of teeth I’ve ever had on a bottom gear!) and would also allow me to use the Hope XC wheels from my hardtail.

I can probably live with the heavy SRAM cranks for a while since the weight there won’t be as noticeable as weight on the rear wheel. Will an NX 12 speed chainring be compatible with 11 speed Shimano cassette? What chain(s) are cross compatible between the two? Bloody standards.

Seriously, are you really concerned about the weight of a cassette?

Well it seemed like a cost efficient way to lose some weight from an unsprung part at low £ per gram (and sell the NX cassette) whilst also getting closer ratios.

Unless you’re an elite level competitive cyclist, component weights are an irrelevance

I’m not, but I might do the odd race and besides, lighter bikes are more fun.

You could lose a few kgs of bodyweight at little/no cost rather than dick about with, potentially (very) expensive component upgrades which will deliver marginal gains and mimimal weight reductions.

No I can’t, I’m pretty happy with my weight thanks. 😜

Based on the above, the Garbaruk looks good but I’m not sure that I’m ready for £200 cassettes!

I believe that the hub will be traditional Shimano HG, so older 11 speed XT would fit as an alternative to the Gabaruk, but I wonder how obtainable 11 speed XT parts will be in a few years?

I’ve not looked at the wheel weight yet, but I suspect that there will be some weight savings there, so there is a potential route of new rear wheel (with a Hope micro spline hub) as someone suggested above, and swap to a 12 speed XT 10-46 drivetrain, but that is a bigger upgrade than bunging a new cassette on.

I guess I just wanted a rant about the cost of bike parts. £110 for a very basic boat anchor SRAM cassette?!

Does anyone have a recent copy of the trail map?

I’m staying in Ebberston next week so might as well try to ride a few of the Dalby trails from the doorstep if I can find a sensible way into the forest to pick up a trail part way round.

I used to do 17mi each way on quiet country roads (50min or so). 3-4 days a week was enough – it’s a great way to fit some exercise into the working day but I’d tend to drive on Fridays.

If you drive in at least one day a week, you can drop all of your kit for the week off and pick up your washing, so you can travel light. I just rode with a jacket, phone and bank card in my back pocket each day. Left my lock etc. at work.

Can anyone advise on sizing? I’m 6ft and normal proportions, not sure whether to go med or large?

I don’t have an X but based on my experience with an FF29, I suspect you’d be on a Large. I’m 5ft7 and ride and medium. Before I got an FF29 I managed to test ride one in the South Downs so worth speaking to some stockists down there.

Based on the above, are we saying that you NEED a boost crankset then? I’d be running a 34t chainring and would have carried over my old non-boost SLX crankset if it fitted.

Does anyone have bare medium frame weights? I know Kinesis list them but I’m just looking for some verification (since my Tripster AT seems a bit lardy!)

Oh, and finally, what gearing? Currently 38 x 11-40, but could go 36 oval x 11-40…

38 x 11-40 is probably considered on the higher end for XC, but should be do-able. If you have a 36t already, I’d probably throw that on.

I have 34 x 11-40 on my full sus XC bike which I occasionally race (but only because 40t is about the smallest cassette you can get for 11 speed).

I run 34 x 11-36 on my 10spd hardtail and raced it like that for a bit (and will probably race it this year), and the bottom gear there is is pretty close to your bottom gear.

I can’t speak for most of the courses, but Cathkin Braes shouldn’t have any long grinding climbs – it is more short, sharp undulations which should be fine for your current setup.

Has anyone got any inside info on the Nutcracker series? Are dates likely to be forthcoming or is it likely to be off for the same reason as BMBS Dalby (felling??)

Now that BMBS Dalby is moved, apart from the SXC series, my nearest XC race (Cannock) is a 600mi round trip away!

I got some electrical work done at Alistair Reid on Whitefriar St just over a year ago. My local garage couldn’t do it so sent me there, and there were professional and efficient and didn’t rip me off.

Bump. This thread still needs more pictures!

The Kinesis X seems like a relatively rare frame only boost hardtail in this price range. It’s just a shame they couldn’t get another set of bottle bosses on there.

I rode my 29er hardtail with rigid forks and 2.25″ Racing Ralphs on at the Dirty Reiver a couple of years ago and on the fast smooth sections (gentle downhills) the guys on drop bars were cruising past effortlessly.

I’ve since got a Tripster frame to replace my Pro6 and I’m enjoying it with 42mm gravel tyres on. Fast enough on the road but pretty competent for nipping off for local shortcuts so it suits my local riding. This is still my CX bike too and I just swap the tyres a couple of times a year if I’m doing a few CX races. The 42mm tyres make a lot of local bits more fun, rather than uncomfortably nervously bouncing off rocks and roots on the CX tyres.

As above, if you have decent tyre clearance on your CX bike, that might be worth a shot first.

In short, smoother tyres on your 29er is fine but if you want to be fast, the 29er will always feel a bit slower with the upright position and wide bars.

In classic STW ‘recommend what you have’ fashion, I find my 29er Anthem pretty capable. It is perfectly happy to pop off things and getting the front wheel up if that’s your thing. It only feels long very occasionally on tight switchback climbs.

My 2018 Anthem 2 seems to be available for £1800 at present I think. I added an internally routed dropper when I bought it a year ago but aside from the weight being slightly chunky for my liking, I have no complaints (I’m swapping the wheels for something slightly lighter for XC racing use)

I found this thread whilst looking at XC wheel options, so I’ll jump in rather than starting another thread. I’ve got a 2018 Anthem 29er 2 and have already replaced the rear wheel with a Hope / Crest custom build (dented the original Giant rim so it is demoted to a heavy winter wheel) . I want to save a bit of weight from the standard wheels, so will be doing similar for the front.

I’ve used Hope hubs for years and they are not the lightest but seem fairly reliable and serviceable (bearings seem to last better than a Stans Ironcross wheel set I have too). Hope hubs are therefore virtually certain, but should I consider anything else before getting a Crest to match the rear?

Hope / Crest is a sensible mid-price, mid-weight all round XC option for me, but should I consider things like a Light Bicycle carbon rim for the front?

Watch out for an ‘unused’ super-high-spec Maxlight X coming to the classifieds soon after she realises that she really can’t be bothered to ride it! lol

I fancy one of these to replace an old FF29 (and I can then use my 2 x Boost wheelsets on the hardtail too). How are you finding the frame? If it is a medium frame and you need to sell it, let me know! ;)

I dented a top tube on my alloy 29er a few years ago when my shifter hit it in a crash. I suspect it might have written off a carbon frame.  I thought my shifters just cleared the top tube, but clearly not.

I now set up my bikes with a good few mm between the lowest part of the bars and the top tube. You won’t notice one extra spacer under the stem.

If you google presta adaptor, you can get a tiny metal adaptor that screws onto your valve for a couple of quid (wiggle have one for £1.99 as the first search result for me).

TBH, most of the time I prefer to inflate with the valve core out for maximum air flow though, and then re-inflate with a track pump once the tyre has popped into place.

Edit: I do have the gauge/hose in the first pic posted above too, as it came with my compressor.

I’ve replaced my 6/7 year old Pro6 with a Tripster AT, which I intend to race. It is marginally heavier than the Pro6 I think, but I’m not sure I’ll notice the geometry or frame weight difference in a race.

My Pro6 had knackered bottle mounts so it was a bit restrictive for long rides, plus the rear tyre clearance wasn’t amazing on muddy Scottish CX courses. I’m intending to stick 33c PDX tyres on for racing next month, but when I’ve worn out my current 33c faster tyres which I’ve been using all summer, I’m going to stick some 40c semi-slicks on for gravel stuff outside of CX race season too.

I’ve not raced it to check yet, but I don’t think it will be as nice to carry as my Pro6. The Pro6 had a nice flattened top tube, whereas the Tripster AT has a pointier edge to the bottom (I think it is supposed to allow a frame bag to wrap around the top tube slightly). Unfortunately that pointy edge will probably dig into shoulders a bit.

Interestingly (or probably not for most people) the spare RaRa Speed I have in the garage weighs 50g more than the one I had on. That’s a wee bit more rubber to protect against punctures. Maybe I got a thin one off the production line. Hmm.

Thanks for the photos. It certainly looks pretty neat. Fair point about getting a magic ratio, although from experience it never lasts long when its muddy.

Yes, I knew scotroutes back when I worked in Edinburgh and he was still at the bike chain. Small world.

A tidy BB device could work, but I want something completely mud proof – a good Scottish CX race ruins many a drivetrain! I’m intending to use this Pro6 singlespeed when it is too muddy for my geared cross bike.

I’ll take some pics when I’m home.  I’d offer you a look and an offer up if you were local (Surrey Hills) but you’re not even a tiny bit local are you?

That’s very kind, thanks. Yes, Surrey is a fair way from Perthshire unfortunately!

I’m currently running a Shimano double crankset, and presumably could pop on a 1/8 or 3/32 chainring and half link chain, and get a SS cog for my existing wheel. This is definitely sounding a bit less faff than the eccentric hub.

Do the bearings last okay in the BB?

What sort of BB does the frame have?

It’s a good old fashioned threaded BB (which I still prefer!) so I thought an eccentric BB wouldn’t be an option. I hadn’t seen the Philcentric option before – looks quite elegant. Does the size of the cups affect crank options at all?

A BB option would allow me to keep my existing wheel and certainly save a bit of disc brake bodging.

Thanks guys – some useful pics and info there.

Needing a disc mount too sounds like an extra layer of faff. I’d heard that the bearing wear quickly – not ideal for a SS CX bike!

Looking at the disc adaptor (I see it is on the White Industries site too) it won’t help with my post-mount frame, so I’d need to bodge something to move the caliper.

But not sure what it will do to disc – pad alignment and if you’d get a lip on the pads

I believe the idea of the disc one is that the disc is attached to the hub in such a way that it doesn’t move when you tension the chain.

Try these – <span class=”skimlinks-unlinked”>hatchbag.co.uk</span> They might make you a custom liner?

I had a gander at their site earlier, and also these guys, who seem to suggest they will do one to fit a Caravelle when it is only running one row of seats. No pics on the site and I haven’t contacted them yet, but might be an option for keeping mud of the floor AND the sides.

If not, the moulded floor sounds like a minimum decent option. I’ll need to do some measuring once I have decided what our normal seat setup will be (4 or 5 seats).

Good tips, thanks folks. I’ve got some old seat protectors that I might stick on the kids seats together with some sort of sheet hung from the headrests. I’m also wondering about getting a rubber LWB rear boot line on the basis that it should offer decent coverage in a SWB with one row of seats removed.

Sorted it the other day. Turns out I have one jockey wheel bolt which is just long enough (the other 3 Shimano bolts I have were too short) :roll:

Specialized command post xcp is 27.2 and internal routing.

Thomson have just replied to a tweet saying that they have a 27.2mm internal post in testing, due in Spring.

yeah dt78 my anthem xt was 1800 , it was great too

I used to have an old 26″ X2 (the XT equipped) Anthem which was about £1600 at the time after discount. The £2400 list price for the SLX (alu X2) one probably isn’t ridiculous in that context. 15%-20% off won’t be uncommon in Christmas sales I reckon, so it doesn’t look too wild when you take into account inflation and the state of the pound.

KSLev’s are available in 27.2 and internal.

Nice, I didn’t know they did an internal one now, thanks.

Almost an ideal bike for me. Seriously looking at the low end alu one. Annoying that it only has one bottle cage and 27.2mm dropper posts are so rare though (and no internally routed dropper posts are available?). I do wonder if Giant have some new posts in the pipeline.

I had hoped to use my Hope hoops from my hardtail but see they won’t fit either, so this could get expensive… 8O

I’m think of selling my XL London Road in Stealth Black if that would suit you. It’s a good one (tolerances etc.), and could sell whole bike or just the bits you want.

Too big for me. Thanks though

Thanks all- some useful comments.

Will need to check out the toe overlap on the LR as I ride smallish frames and won’t want to catch my toes on the mudguards when track standing etc.

I guess I am looking for almost a fast road bike – my commute is 17mi each way on good country B roads, hence the 25mm tyres on my current bike. I ride my proper carbon road bike to commute when it is dry in the summer and I do have a CX bike for racing etc., but I don’t want to spend every weekend rebuilding that to swap between roles.

Off to check out some of the other suggestions, but if anyone hears of a cheap 4S disc for a 5ft7 rider, shout up!

I’ve got the VW ones here – got them thrown in when I bought the car, as they fitted my racks from my previous Scirocco. No complaints at all – I take them on and off every time I use them, and they are pretty easy to install.

Thanks AD and onewheelgood. That’s helpful. I don’t need a big estate 90% of the time really, so a V60 polestar is tempting. :)

V60 has a 40:20:40 rear seat, it’s wider than my old mk3.5 mondeo, but not as high or long.

Takes a 26″ 456 with all wheels and the like on.

R-design suspension is ace with heavy loads.

Saccades, any idea if you can get a smallish road bike in the boot wit both wheels off without too much faff, and seats still up? My Golf hatch won’t do it, and I suspect the V60 might just be too small. Since the boot is only about 10% bigger.

Come now, RS6 clearly meets sirs requirements.

Fast, petrol, roomy. Certainly ticks the boxes, except for the bank balance requirements (or at least at a mileage/age I’d be happy with). I’m not a massive Audi fan, but the RS4 appeals – there are too many bland A4/A6 estates around for my taste, but the RS4 looks different enough whilst still being quite subtle. Probably not that big though.

That Nissan Prairie is genius. :) Not many around either – must be going up in price soon. ;)

What size are you / is the bike?

Only 5ft7. Ride a medium sized 29er with narrowish bars by today’s standards (c 700mm). Road bikes should be an easier win.

Thanks for the feedback. I take the point about tarting up Caddys, but the Maxi is still a bit wrong on the proportion front, and I’ve discovered it is about 3cm too tall for my garage, hence wondering about estates again (that, and I do enjoy driving so at least a fast estate would be relatively entertaining when I need to take the bike and kids).

Keep em coming. E class Merc and 5 series still look manageable. Any experience of the XF Sportbrake?

I probably need to actually put a bike in some to see how much of a faff it is.

Useful responses, thanks guys

BMW. Audi A4s and A6s are bloody everywhere – far too common and boring, and almost impossible to tell apart.

Thanks – some interesting options. Anthem looks good value in that company – shame it doesn’t have stealth dropper routing but you can’t have everything! Hmm…

Just leave a cog off the cassette.

This works. I’m running the BR-R685 mechanical hydraulic set with the 14t (I think) removed, and an extra spacer slotted in. Seemed to shift okay on the two rides I’ve done thus far. My Stans wheel has a free hub which isn’t upgradeable to 11 speed, but I wanted the hydro caliper. This will do me until I need new wheels.