Thanks for the replies. I will no doubt end up with disc brakes in the end.

It just seems like rim-based braking, would be a cheaper/lighter/easier solution than cables disc in particular for the lower spec models anyway. Shorter cable-runs too, hence less drag/stretch than cable discs.

I didn’t mean for people to get hung up on v-brakes in particular; I don’t know if modern calipers out-perform v-brakes either (i.e. the 105 calipers on my Allez are very good, I can’t remember how my Vs were back in the day), I just assumed as they were MTB they’d be more powerful of the two.

Thanks.

:)

Hah, yeah, I’m probably just being a cheapskate moan. :D

Uugh, the chainring bolts don’t line up with the centre of the arms.

A new Debian release should be out in a few weeks. Yay! :)

I get miffed when I find myself thinking of news-related things when I’m out riding. I never used to follow politics but with brexit I feel like a fly that keeps coming back to a turd, in particular the big thread on this forum keeps on bringing me back. Maybe we could lock/hide the Brexit thread on a Friday + weekend? Only kidding, I just need to learn to not open it! :P

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And don’t put them on inside-out.

They’re not pants.

The 2019 Arkose fork details say:

R1: “Full carbon fork and Alloy steerer w/flat mount, mudguard mounts & dynamo routing”

R2: “Full carbon fork and steerer w/flat mount, mudguard mounts & dynamo routing”

Is that correct; the lower spec models have alloy steerers & the more expensive ones are fully carbon? Just checking, thinking of buying. I’m half scared of damaging a carbon steerer through over-tightening. What torque is recommended for the carbon ones? :)

I think it was a Vive non-Pro, and to my eyes it was very spud-like. :)

I’ve played LFS simulator for years on a monitor & Logitech G25, it works very well. I think the latest Logitech model is G29; if I was buying now I’d get that. I’ve briefly tried LFS & some other driving game in VR but it was pretty unpleasant that I gave up after a lap or so; the view distance in driving sims is very important for spotting apexes and the edges of the track in the distance, but the VR resolution (not sure what kit it was) much lower than a monitor so I found it very difficult & unpleasant. I’m surprised how they manage to sell VR currently with such low resolution. Yes it is fun for a few minutes but that’s it. I wouldn’t spend money on VR.

I don’t know if buying a PC whole or building is best or cheaper, but I just do it because I’m a bit of geek & enjoy it as a research & build project or something. :)

Always check the details of the disc before buying; they always say what type of pads they can be used with.

Or a new rotors (the don’t seem to do 203mm rotors though):

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/lifeline-one-piece-stainless-disc-rotor-180mm/rp-prod155639

I’ve used an old bolt-on front wheel from another bike; screw it into the hanger & move the wheel around until the two wheels are about parallel vertically & horizontally (or something like that, maybe I rotated it to check the same point crossed the other wheel at the same distance, was years ago, but it worked well).

I got the bike around October 2015 so Shimano warranty would be up, plus I’ve no real evidence regarding leak as there no visible leak or implied due to oily deposits.

Cheers regarding the oil suggestions too. I think I’ll see if I can spray my cans into a jar rather than waste it, but will consider them further if that fails. I stumbled across decent sized bottles of silicone oil for treadmill rollers although I’d need to get some sort of bottle to dispense it via, any thoughts on that as a cheapskate option? :D

Yep, I was thinking that too although I’m not sure the hose would be long enough, will need to check but it is routed internally (grr) so isn’t as simple a swap as it would be otherwise. I doubt I could just swap the calipers either as there’ll be an olive in the connector & I don’t have one spare.

I don’t think it goes away during a ride, and I think the rain just makes them squeal louder. :)

Thanks for the replies. I’ll avoid using aerosol on my bike from now on in general, that’s a good idea. Especially once I put my new rotor+pads on after they arrive.

I’ve got the WD40 one with the nozzle but still got a couple of Fenwicks cans to go through (I was hoping I could use the WD40 nozzle on them but it doesn’t fit, grr). I might even spray them into a jar & use it that way or with a cloth as suggested.

If there is a leak it’s invisible as I’ve thoroughly inspected the pistons for leaking whilst applying pressure with the lever and the pistons partially extended but there’s none appearing.

They are Shimano brakes, yes, Acera M396 ones on my 2016 Trance 3. I’ve read Shimanos can have iffy seals but my front one has been pretty good otherwise; I’ve got the same brake on the back of my hardtail without issue so far. Plus, I bought a big tub of Shimano brake fluid years ago so kind of want to stay with Shimano just to use it up! :D