Put washers under the caliper to move it out a bit. I have the correct mounts on my bike but needed about 1mm to stop the outer edge of the rotor touching the caliper.

It would be more news-worthy/attention-acheiving if more opposition MPs did it, say if each of them gave one of Johnson’s lies & called him a liar & then got expelled, would there be anyone left that day. If all that happens is they get expelled for the rest of the day then they should be doing at every opportunity they get multiple times.

A bit of fun for a bit, but that’s the game Johnson plays.

I don’t see what’s odd about that crowd reaction.

Edit: not sure if you were meaning it was somehow odd or not. But it seems normal enough, like when someone drops a tray in a canteen some folks go way-hey.

So the message is; you don’t need to self-isolate unless other people find out that you need to self isolate, so keep it to yourself.

I put an invisifilm generic hardtail kit on my bike on Saturday, I didn’t use any water. I just stuck it on & it looks good. I’ve used rolls of copter tape previously & also never used water.

Unless it’s on your bottom bracket.

I think LGSP has a penalty if you want to withdraw/drawdown or whatever before your state pension age, so if you want to retire before that you need to figure out having money between when you want to retire & when you reach your state pension age.

Ah cool, thanks. If I went with a non-Shimano big ring it’d probably not have the fancy shifting ramps of matched Shimano pairs, just the pins and maybe a generic ramp. Just so long as there’s nothing odd about the cranks themselves that means they can only take the rings they’re originally provided with & any old normal 110BCD rings will still fit, any of the above chainsets should be OK.

Thanks.

You could actually do it with MS Paint easily enough. Just start a blank image, make it huge, zoom out & paste each photo in & move it around & crop as required. Then stick the text in. :)

If you just mean normal images then http://www.gimp.org would do, if you mean stitching panoramic photos together then hugin.sourceforge.net.

I just got some Ryanbuildswheels.co.uk ‘Factotum Gravel’ wheels, seem good though I’ve only done 1 ride thus far. They’ve now brought out some narrower ‘Factotum Endurance’ wheels which I might have bought instead if they were out a few weeks ago! People on here seem to recommend them a fair bit, hence I got them.

I had an issue with slow vodafone broadband in the evening & I fixed it by using Cloudflare DNS servers (1.1.1.1 and 1.0.0.1) rather than the usual ones the ISP provided. Might be worth a bash, might not.

I replaced some deore jockey wheels with Tacx ones, and the following ride or so I managed to push the chain over the biggest sprocket. The Tacx ones don’t have the lateral float that Shimano ones do, so if you use them to need to re-adjust the mech limits.

The contact us & shipping links suggest it is UK based, unless they;re a very generous EU supplier that does free shipping to the uk?

I bought a frame from them in 2009, no problems & still got it.

My DuckDuckGo-fu isn’t helping me find where my lower spiritual tract is… :)

It likes to pull defrosted sausages out of lawns.

JRAs Traildog30 boost pair uses Bitex BX211F + BX211R i think. I’ve got a pair, not used them yet.

I just wanted to check first. Plus, when I was researching gravel bikes before I bought it I recall reading about a bike with a wheel that had to be dished slightly to one side, but I don’t recall what bike it was.

Thanks.

Get a steel fork with a nice curve in it.

Thanks. Their system of democracy doesn’t even sound good, as mentioned previously about big countryside states having more weight per person than some more populace ones & run-offs, due to racial considerations. It seems like there’s more to be ashamed of in such a system than there is to claim it is the worlds bestest, not that we in the UK can talk our system is fairly garbage. Maybe one day they’ll change it’d be nice if the recent events would help drive it.

In the first paragraph that Forbes article says America is “the world’s oldest democracy…” and I’ve heard that mentioned previously in the last few days. It isn’t though, is it? Google* says they’re been around for donkey’s years, why do the American’s keep saying this? Weird.

Edit: maybe it is more their electoral college & gubbins that they’re referring to being so great.
Edit2: DuckDuckGo actually, dunno why i typed Google.

It looks like the sort of thing that Shimano should have done a product recall for rather than hide behind it being just a warranty claim for those that encounter it, seeing as it has prompted the above sort of Bikeradar article to be published.

That happened to mine on its 7th ride & stopped going up most of the time or being very reluctant to go up. I had an inner tube protecting it from the beginning. I submitted a warranty claim & they refunded it. I later took it apart & got it working but it has started going the same way again. I accidentally broke the nylon string that runs down its length to actuate the doofer at the bottom while disassembling it, but there was enough free length to tie it again – something to look out for, I think cut the string while removing the top collar.

Modern fighters are designed to be unstable & the computers keep them flying where the pilot wants them to, more unstable basically means more manouverable.

From memory I think the XB70 crashed because the pilots couldn’t raise their arms to reach/move the controls once it started to spin, due to the cockpit being so far ahead of the mass centre it created so much centripetal acceleration. A sexy machine though.

BLCK DMND are Specialized heavy DH type casing. The Control is their lower ‘bog standard tyre’ casing. The GRID/Trail ones are in the middle. Butchers are pretty good in mud in my experience.

.

Check that the unworn pad is actually moving & that the rotor is sitting centrally in the caliper slot & isn’t being pushed into the caliper when the pistons move. If one piston is sticking, remove the pads & then hold the good one back & pull the lever a bit to see if it’ll move out (don’t pop it out completely obviously). If you can extend it a bit you can give it a wipe with dot/mineral fluid depending on what your system uses, but wipe it off afterwards as you won’t want to get it onto your pads/rotor.

JW1, none of the rest.

It was probably a DRS pass that you saw. DRS=Drag Reduction System, basically the rear wing flips up to reduce drag at the press of a button. It can only be opened by the following driver once they are within 1second from the car ahead & only at certain points on the circuit on one or two straights (a white line marks where it can be used). It is pretty rubbish as it makes overtakes pretty easy, it was introduced to provide more overtaking.

Ah, I thought I was just being ham-fisted by always smashing up my press-fit BB when I removed it with the fancy park tools splayed pole tool. Glad to hear I’m not alone.

Will the bill/deal get more than one chance to pass? If so Starmer just needs to leave it to the Tories for one or two passes & if it goes to a third then say they’ll support it to put the country first because the Tories won’t.

I saw these recently & thought they looked interesting:
https://www.merlincycles.com/magura-mdr-c-ebike-disc-rotor-173133.html

The description claims they reduce noise. But Maguras are 2mm thick & Shimanos 1.8mm so I’m not sure if they’re compatible. The extra thickness & the mid-rotor brace thingy might help reduce noise.

You just need to rotate the right side of the bar up a tad.

Forget tax, why not just make things cost a % of what you earn? :P

My notes say ideal crankset chainlines for 1x:
non-boost 48-50mm,
Boost 51-53mm.

I think 55mm is superboost.

I just got the Shimano MT610 crank from Merlin with 52mm chainline for a boost frame myself.

I’ve got a Cateye Rapid Mini & think its good enough. Small & bright & USB rechargeable.

The Solaris has pretty lengthy 444mm chainstays, although I’m getting a 32T chainring. The options on Merlin are 118 links Deore, 120 SLX or 138 SLX. I chose the 138 SLX. Probably just as well. :)

Thanks, I ordered the longer more expensive SLX chain already. I can maybe make something out of the extra left over. :D

They’re not all the same price, hence my question! :D
The Solaris has pretty long chainstays & if you had to remove ~6 links from a 126 then I’d be safest to get >120 links I guess. Oh well. Thanks. :)

Ok, sounds good thanks. I’ve also found some photos on their site showing the Shimano mechs on them without the extra link thing too, so seems to be correct. Ta muckle.