I’ve been running Praxis/KMC/Sunrace on my Diverge since late 2019 & still going. I’ll replace the chainset with a Shimano one when the time comes because the Praxis chainrings are very expensive, but there’s no reason to swap it out from new, it works fine.

Euugh, teal & orange fest video.

That’s supposedly just a generic showcar: https://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1023923&f=12#p1023909

Yes, I didn’t mention it in my first post but the B2 version of the Shimano chainset is the boost one.

Duh people, get a Porsche. Shopping goes in the front. Simples.

Hi, the frame does accept 2x drivetrains, I asked Cotic via email before doing it. And the website does say it can take it too, which I didn’t notice to begin with; it just needs a Shimano side-swing front mech. I think the clearance could be better basically as that would give a better opportunity for the chain to release on at least some occasions – as is likely the case on other bikes I’ve run which have more clearance.

I tried 1×12 first but I couldn’t achieve enough tension in the system (yes, chain was short enough, shorter than the Shimano instructions etc…), or something or other so I was getting chain slap on the top of the chainstay when I stopped pedalling. Hence, I gave up on it after a few months and went 2×10, since it had worked well for me on my Trance.

joshvegas, if it works… :P

Cheers all, I’ll go & clean my chain. :)

A Dig Too Far.

Still no pics from Dominic? Fingers crossed they appear today.

It probably defines the championship, but maybe it doesn’t say which annual FIA Prize Giving ceremony? :)

Has anyone told you that “you don’t know your arse from you elbow”? Is it actually a different sort of leakage you’re asking about?

:)

The FIA: it gives you wins!

Can Michael Massi get a penalty for bringing the sport into disrepute? It’s no longer a reputable sport anyway, that’s for sure.

If Max was going to win the championship I was prepared for considering similar to Rosberg’s oft-caveated win ‘he only won it because of Hamilton’s mechanicals’, in that Max has won it only because he drives people off the track & gets away with it & the stewards/director have let him away with stuff they shouldn’t have, but the end of today’s race was just a joke.

I watched a virtual lap of the circuit yesterday & thought someone would probably have an off at turns 22/23. I’ve just watched Leclercs crash… happened at that corner. Ooft.

I wonder why dropouts for mixing 29″ & 27.5″ are always horizontal? They could be made at an angle so that the BB height is maintained also. Or should I copyright my idea… ?

I’m tyred of all the puns.

Kind of funny how the Max document needs a much longer explanation than the Bottas one.

https://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/decision-document/2021%20Qatar%20Grand%20Prix%20-%20Offence%20-%20Car%2077%20-%20Single%20waved%20yellow%20flag.pdf

5 for Max:

https://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/decision-document/2021%20Qatar%20Grand%20Prix%20-%20Offence%20-%20Car%2033%20-%20double%20yellow%20flags.pdf

A suggested explanation given on f1technical.net forum is that the mark is probably from when a main element with less camber is attached. There’s no evidence of the top 2″ of the mainplane flipping back; no crease along its span, and the circled bit would require some sort of hinge to move backwards, otherwise it’d be like trying to bend a ruler the difficult way.

Fixed it for ya:

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If you cut the bars in the middle you’ll be able to get the gripshift onto the flat part of the bar, no bother. You’d just need to then make sure to tighten up the stem faceplate sufficiently to hold the two sides. Easy peasy.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cranks/170-shimano-slx-fcm665-left-hand-crank-arm/

edit: that’s just a left one though.

I’ve never experienced it so other will hopefully have better suggestions.
Bolts threaded the crank maybe, or something stuck between the gap where the plastic doofer goes?
Got another left crank to swap in to test it? A road one might even fit. If the axle is steel & the problem is the left crank, then you could just buy a new left crank.

Sure it is the crank arm moving relative to the axle, and not the left bearing that is shot?

Take it apart & have a look, clean it up to see if anything looks damaged. They’re easy to take apart.

Max does momentarily hold his wheel stationary in the middle of the turn to run wide. He’s careful not to put in any opposite lock, but he does hold it still longer than he should if he had any intention of staying on the track. That plus his intended late wide-arc.

They look pretty cool! :thumbsup:
Not so much the white one though.

Seatpost clamp too tight?

That wind turbine better be rotating, else I won’t be much impressed.

The centre tube isn’t distorted. I’ve booked the frame in to get the BB faced next week.

No, I sold the old crankset & the old frame. I’ve only got the old BB, plus two new cranksets & a new BB also. The old 3x crankset was pretty old though, so maybe it had gotten slacker through the years.

I’ve just taken the cups out & they are tight on the axle still. So nothing to do with the frame.

I’ve also tried pushing a spare new BB onto the shaft, and it was even tighter. Immediately at the end of the splines there’s a step in the shaft diameter making it tight.

Mallet time it is then.

A bit of a tap seems OK, but the first crankset in the Solaris seemed to take excessive wallops than any other I’ve installed.

Thanks, I’ll have a look for a manual.

I’ve ordered the PNW one, it looks like it has more leverage hopefully. Thanks.

A Shimano M765 front brake system, probably 15 to 20years old. On my brand new Cotic SolarisMax. :D

A Pentium 100MHz should do the trick, with a 3dfx voodoo 4Mb for the graphics.

Thanks. I’m asking since Shimano don’t seem to do any 10-speed high band, side swing front mechs, but do an 11-speed SLX one.

The one time I replaced Shimano jockey wheels with non-Shimano ones (TACX plastic ones) the next time I went into the biggest sprocket the chain went into the spokes (jammed behind the cassette, ride ending). The shimano jockey guide wheel moves laterally, other ones don’t. Or just remember to adjust the limit screws.

I’ve got this same issue on my new bike & new Deore groupset. My chainstay got a nasty scratch from the chain coming down just aft of the chainring. I’ve got the b-screw/mech height set correctly & the chain length set as per the instructions for a hardtail.

I think there’s too much friction in the Bitex freehub + not enough tension on the chain, although it seems pretty tight. I’ve already upped the clutch tension but it didn’t help. I’ve not yet taken out grease from the hub but will likely try that next. I may be able to take another link out of the chain but I’m leaving that as the last resort as I don’t want to make it too short.

Does anyone know if it is possible to increase the mech spring tension? I’ve previously increased the spring tension on a Tiagra mech, but there isn’t a second hole to put the spring end into on the back of the pulley guide plate.

Edit: possibly could be chain needing the original Shimano grease flushed out as I’ve not yet done that, as per this thread: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/freehub-drag-ideas/