Update: I took the forks to my LBS last week or the one before. They didn’t have the fancy tool to align the mounts to the axle, but they recommended returning it under warranty as that’s what they’d do. So I contacted the online shop I bought them from & they collected them. They got back to me today saying the forks as OK as-is. They sent a video back:

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To me they still don’t look right in the video. The gap varies from being straight, to a triangle. It doesn’t help that the rotor isn’t straight. And maybe the pads aren’t touching the disc as the pads aren’t extended enough or something, or mine run closer to the rotor.

Anyhow, they’re sending the forks back & I’ll swap the rear/front calipers around & see if that helps, as I swapped them during this build as I used the rear caliper+hose on the front, because the new frame has a longer wheelbase. I doubt one caliper is out of whack, but I guess I’ll see.

I used a blade to remove the paint/clearcoat that was on it yesterday. But it didn’t make any difference.

Thanks, I’ll take it to my LBS to get done. :thumbup:

Thanks, I was thinking that might be the solution.

The Cotic Solaris Max (not the current latest model) can take one, I run it 2×10.

XTR again but don’t use them with Hope BB or similar?

Maybe this is old info but I though SLX & up had alloy axles, hence this problem happens when you put them in a steel bearing.

I consider them in the same way as a pair sowel.

Edit: mibbies I’ve got ma spelling of pair/puir wrang. Broke joke. Acht weel.

Slacken the bolts about at much as you can without them dropping out, then hopefully got enough movement to push the top plate sideways to let one rail out, then the top plate has enough movement to get the other rail out.

I’ve got the Max Traditional saddle, well two now. I find it more comfortable than the non-Max version, which I’ve got on my full-suss but the Max version works well on my hardtail (just fitted a Max to my gravel bike, but not ridden it yet). The MAX’s relief channel is deep enough that it is just like having a cut out channel. The rear does have quite a lip at the rear but it doesn’t bother me, but I imagine some people might not like it. None of my bikes are e-bikes.

Bird used to do a seat clamp collar that didn’t have the full top lip that only exists to stop it sliding down the frame – it left only 3 small tabs to do this. This is meant to allow the collar to more evenly distribute pressure & might then grip a seat post in a way that doesn’t make the dropper bind. It was some other company that make them for Bird – I don’t recall who, but maybe they still make them. Anyway, I filed down one of my seat clamps like, leaving only 3 small tabs rather than buy one. :^D

On my other bikes I’ve got an XLC clamp that has  2 bolts like this:

It isn’t in stock right now, but it’s good – if it fits the diameters you need. It might reappear.

It is for a frame external diameter of 34.9 mm, and internal diameter of 31.6mm

Edit: the big gap above is meant to be a link to amazon.co.uk, here’s the end of the URL: amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0035Z5U3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

The line they draw when in drivers-eye view, with a measure of the distance to the car ahead, is a smidgen more annoying than the driver name that floats above the car. But it doesn’t appear often.

Maybe they’ll bring in ghost car graphics, so they can show far ahead/behind they are. Then how many lives they’ve got left. :D

I didn’t see that, but the halo is titanium so it was probably just the carbon shell deflecting.

https://www.fia.com/news/how-make-f1-halo

What is the best way to set fire to an inkjet printer?

I’ve got an add on Simple Blocker in Firefox that I can specify webpages to block certain threads rather than the whole forum. e.g. the F1 or some political ones. It is easily undone, but takes a few steps so might me enough. Good luck.

I found the same with a Zefal bottle. It bounced off the bike & broke the bottle, but the mouth bit was good so I though I’d just put the top onto another bottle I had… nope. Different thread.

GBNews obviously.

If you’ve got another 12s mech to compare against – does the spring in it seem weak? I tried Deore 12s but gave up as I was experiencing the same problems, once I found out my Solaris could take a front mech I changed it to 2×10. But my thinking was that it was inertia/spring not being up to the job.

@Binners : then kicking is permitted.

Yeah, we must remember to punch up, not down.

I’ve got +20mm ones on my bikes, seems to make a more stable platform. I’m a big blubbery unit & I haven’t bent my crank arms so far anyway.

I use these ones: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pedals-cleats/20-jtek-qplus-pedal-extenders-916-inch/

But it could have been even better without DRS maybe. Some photos show the Redbull pushes more airflow outside its rear tyres than other cars, making its wake wide, it might make it one of the easiest cars to overtake if there were no DRS. But as per the tweet it looks like there’s more moveable aero, the FIA clearly aren’t listening to me. :)

In addition it’d be good if  they removed DRS entirely, seeing as the cars can now & even more so with the above, follow each other close enough.

The toilet they’re telling people to use is the door on the far right.

Maybe it rains a bit in Scotland & the police thought it a good idea to have a tent to stop paperwork getting wet, either that or they might be digging up body parts or dinosaur bones.

If they rewound the positions to before the last red flag then any penalties applied to people after it should be too surely? e.g. Sainz’s racing incident one.

Specialized Diverge. I’ve got the older version, the new ones look more capable as they can take bigger tyres.

I had this happen a bit on my XT cranks in a Hope BB. I went back to a Shimano BB.
Shimano plastic top caps on their BB cups seem like a good idea. Aluminium spindle in a steel BB race doesn’t seem so good.

Edit: i only found the login box now after the redesign, seems odd being way down the bottom.

If the plane was in trouble I’d prefer the pilot to remain boring & disconnected, to do a load of problem solving & mental maths to work out the best solution & to carry it through safely & not care how it looked outwardly.

If you were only PM in the afternoon rather than a whole day, then you’d be PM PM PM.

I probably didn’t spot them in the box or something stupid. Oh well. Thanks both.

Thanks, I’ve ordered a pair of Shimano shoes. Maybe my old ones were missing the cover or they were just like that back then.

I’d happily go for a cup & cone deore level shimano* front hub even, they last forever & the big rubber sealing seemed really good that the bearings never looked bad or the grease particularly dirty compared to the rear, which ended up a brown muddy pitted mess.

*I’m talking about 15+ years ago Deore though, I’ve no idea if current front deore hubs are as good.

Reduce the pressure to 1 bar?

Yep, the sound made me think of the start of Half-Life too! :D

And if we eat lentils instead of meat we’ll solve the gas supply issue.

I was looking at nylon pipes before my initial post above, but hadn’t see a suitable size. I hadn’t searched for PVC, but that’s a good idea thanks.

Hmm, maybe a seatpost clamp with the top lip filed off would do, although it is another clamp rather than a spacer.

I’ll go & have a look, thanks.

I’m being lazy in not taking my dropper out to clean & paste it up, as it is massive faff. I’ve got carbon paste but haven’t tried it yet. I was just wishing a mechanical stop/spacer might have been a more definitive solution, so I wouldn’t need to re-do it.

I think it is easy enough to tighten it up enough to stop twisting; stopping it sliding down without impairing the dropper action more difficult.

I’ve got a Lifeline mudguard that attaches to the lower part so takes up ~15mm, but the bit above it I’d only need a ~20mm to take up that space. I haven’t managed to tighten up the mudguard collar to help stop it going down as its a screw fastener & is plastic.