Primer looks good, but I’ve not ridden it so can’t really comment on it.
I’ve got a 45 though, and absolutely love it 🙂

Haven’t missed a front mech, and i honestly don’t see the need for adjustable rear travel when this thing rides as well as it does in pretty much every situation.

I ordered the correct item and they actually sent an item which was correctly labelled up but was obviously the wrong size.

*Devil’s Advocate hat on*

“I ordered a size 32 waist, because I’ve always worn a 32”
Buyer doesn’t let on that he last bought shorts a few years ago, and has gotten a bit porky in recent times…
Buyer receives 32″ and, surprise surprise, they’re a bit tight!
Buyer, through a sense of denial, is adamant that the product isn’t right and that he couldn’t possibly require a 34″… Goes on forum to complain.

Admittedly, this is purely speculative – I have never met the OP. He may well be skinny as a rake. Hell, this might not even be about shorts.
It’s Monday afternoon and I’m bored…

Sounds like you’ve got the newer ones. I had the same on my Turbines (use the same Cinch system as the Next) and it’s a real easy fix: Simply back the bolt off and take all tension off the preload adjuster, then bolt the LH crankarm right back up (think it needs to go to something like 50nm)
If it’s had play for a little while, it might be worth taking the arm off (you can use the bolt and cap from the driveside as a self-extractor on the LH arm) and giving the interface between the splines a bit of a clean and a small amount of grease, just to make sure that no crap’s got in there.

Once you bolt it back up to tension, just rest the preload adjuster and away you go!

That’s something the man off the street can do?

Of course not. B2B is a business platform. As Goldenwonder says, the dealer does this on your behalf.

You obviously bent the truth then on the b2b site saying they were the original owner as the link

I think you’re overestimating the complexity of a b2b system…

ive read over the past few years on forums

Oh well it must be true then…

I remember reading that lapierre wouldnt supply parts to anyone who wasn’t the original owner. I decided then I’d avoid lapierre new or used.

Well that sounds like bollocks.

If you were not the original owner, but trying to claim parts FOC under warranty, then they’d be quite right in telling you to sod off.
If you were trying to buy them, on the other hand, they’d have no reason not to supply you.

Seems like a classic case of misreading something online, then taking it as fact.

Iirc, it’s a bush and a bearing in the main pivot of the Sb95, rather than two large bearings.
No idea where to get a replacement bush by itself, but it does come in the sb95 bearing kit.

Edit. Tried to insert an image, but doesn’t seem to want to work from iPad. Never mind…

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I went to the GP first thing this morning and got given a load of antivirals to take for the next 7 days, as well as some strong, sedative-laden painkillers to help me sleep at night.

I’m still going to go on my trip, but should have help every event with the putting up and taking down of displays etc. so I’m hoping it won’t be too bad.
Symptoms seem to vary form person to person, so given that I’m 29 and reasonably healthy (albeit a wee bit overweight) I’m going to keep my fingers crossed that the worst of it should only last a few days… That’s the idea, anyway.

Cheers!

Yeah should have said, I’m going to phone the GP early doors tomorrow and see if I can get an evening appointment, and get to a pharmacy first thing Tuesday before I have to head off…

Yaris seems like a nicer option. Will do a bit more digging! I’d love a 500, but the lack of rear doors rules it out sadly 🙁

Thanks for the tips so far! The i10 seems like a decent wee unit, but not sure I can get on board with the looks of it…

Cheers!

I know Komking. He’s a one-man band selling grey-import kit out of a shed at the back of his house in Bruchsal (small town near Karlsruhe)

He’s a nice enough dude, but I personally wouldn’t buy from him as I wouldn’t fancy my chances trying to get anything warrantied through him, should something go wrong.
Depends what you’re looking to buy of course, but IMO you’d be better to spend the extra couple of € and get stuff from a reputable shop.

How do you clean out crap like in Pinetree’s pic?

As Rickon says, just a quick hose down really. It’s doesn’t need to be scrubbed to within an inch of its life 🙂

Or yeah, you can pressure wash the shît out of it and then wonder why there’s no grease left inside.

Edit- @tom.nash that’s not directed at you btw. Just a general observation.

In refer nice to the earlier question about grease, they recommend a particular molybdenum (spelling?) grease. Can’t remember what it is exactly, but they’re selling their own specific grease now which is pretty cheap. Seems quite thin, so it slides through the link well.
I normally pop a wee bit of grease in my link every 4 months or so. Depends on conditions though. I don’t ride that much sloppy muddy crap any more, mostly down to my sheer hatred of cleaning my bike, and having to hose down my riding kit after every ride… If I was riding more through winter, I’d probably be greasing it a little bit more often.

BY that same token, there are plenty of folk with switch infinity bikes who haven’t had problems. Myself included.

Big thumbs up here 🙂

I was lucky enough to try one last weekend, and was very impressed!

Yeah, there’s a wee bit of a lag between button and actuation, but I don’t imagine it’s any different to shifting gear once you get used to it.

The only thing I’d like to see is a shifter style lever/button. Not necessarily a proper lever, but just something placed down there so you don’t have to bring your thumb back up on to the bar to activate it.

Other than that, it seems really well made and very reasonably priced for what it is.
It’ll be interesting to see how it fares through a British winter, to see if they’ve done a good job of the sealing…

Haaaahaaahaaahaaaaa I’m peeing myself laughing now!

Are you in the shower though?

FWIW, my wife used to be of the opinion that it was absolutely disgusting and used to berate me about it (personally I don’t see the problem)

Now that she’s pregnant and having to pee every 5 minutes, such reservations seem to have gone out the window…

You know, I never thought I had any phobias, let alone one of holes… But something about that first image makes my skin crawl.

Bleurgh… *shudders*

It can be run as a 29er, but I probably wouldn’t. If you do, just make sure you keep the fork at 120 or less, otherwise the BB will be way too high.

A buddy of mine built one with either a 140 or 150mm 29er fork (can’t remember which) and pretty much ruined it. He then put a 140mm 650 fork on it and has been riding it ever since, and loves it.

I’ve got one too, although it’s currently stripped down and sitting in the attic. I had it built with DVO Diamonds (reduced to 140mm) with a fairly burly build kit, and it was brilliant!
Thinking about rebuilding it with a rigid 29er fork and either putting a 29″ up front, or 650b+
Should be pretty interesting either way…

How to take an awesome bike… And ruin it.

Schwalbe as Schwabble
Mondraker as moondraker
*edit* SRAM as Ess Ram

These, along with loads of others I can’t remember atm, should be punishable by death. The excuse of “that’s just how I say it” is frankly unacceptable. You’re not pronouncing it an alternative way; you’re clearly just too thick/lazy to read and pronounce it correctly, and are therefore too stupid to live. Goodbye.

Best one I ever had was a customer in a bike shop I used to work in; he came in looking for a bike for his son (about 2-3 days before Xmas)
Him “Yeah, hi, I’m looking for one of they ‘bummkss’ bikes for ma boy”
Me “Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean”
Him “you know, one of they bummkss bikes for doin jumps an that”
Me “err… Is it a particular brand you’re after?”
Him “Aye, it might be, actually”
Me “oh right, how do I spell it?” *looking on the computer*
Him “B.M.X.”
Me “ah…”

I had one of the first ones, way back when (2005 IIRC) and I absolutely adored it.
Ended up getting fed up of constantly replacing bushings, bolts and bearings though and traded it with a guy for a Turner DHR. That was a total waste as the Sunday was 10x the bike.

Loved to ride it, hated maintaining it, but would own one again if spares were still available.

@the OP: Have you tried Skratch Labs stuff?

I don’t know if they do a recovery product, as it’s all fruit-based, but their hydration/energy stuff is really nice.

omg Miss Haversham!

You might say he has great expectations of his local bike shop.
Chortle chortle…

We viewed one where the floor in the living room was on the piss, sloping off down into one corner.
The estate agent (who couldn’t have been more than 19 years old) tried to put a positive spin on it by saying “At least if you drop something, you know where it will end up”

Touché, salesman…

@Hora – what is it with you and bike shops, seriously? You seem to have a major chip on your shoulder…

Anyway, you haven’t answered the question- what do line of work are you in? And what sort of markups are involved?

Edit: Forgot to say, I work in the bike industry. If you listen to Hora, we work on a 500% markup and are all driving Ferarris.

Wow, we can only dream of such %

It does seem like a decent amount, but you have to bear in mind that £2k sales don’t come along every day. Shops certainly aren’t selling them all day long.
When I ran a shop, the average value of the bikes we sold day to day were between £300 and £600. That same percentage doesn’t equate to quite so much moola…

£160. Probably won’t cover the mechanic’s wages for the day.

£160 for a day’s fixing bikes?! Sign me up!

No more thought through than every cove bike ever released

Not true. Coves bikes names were chosen to be offensive/dirty, and to be used in terrible puns.
This seems much more inadvertent to me, as it’s really specific to a dialect. They can’t possibly know what it means in the uk (Scotland in particular) right..?

I put one on when I built my new bike, as I liked the idea of a 150mm drop in a 30.9 post, but didn’t want a reverb (hate the lever)
It’s only been on a few months, but so far it’s been really good. No stiction, knocking or up and down play like a reverb gives.
Only tip I have for set up is that it’s worth putting a load of lube in the cable. The cable supplied isn’t top grade, but with a bunch of chain lube it slides pretty well.

Yeah, it’s not the cheapest, but it works really well. The lever is ok, but the hop up lever they’ve got on the way looks good. Will get one as soon as they arrive…

I know a couple of lads with dune carbons, none of whom have issues with their cabling. With all due respect, you’re probably doing it wrong…

What you want, sir, is this:

What you need though, are these:

Bend it out, don’t worry about it and get on and ride.

+1 for FR Lite. I’ve had one for a year or so now, and really love it.
I’ve tried a few rucksacks, but always found the Evoc packs are the most stable, due to their width and low profiles.

Not a personal experience of it, but FWIW a buddy of mine has one, and absolutely loves it.

Hope that helps!

I had one, and it was ace. Wish I’d never sold it, tbh…

Have you still got the rack on that STD? Take that off and you can probably add on another £100 😉

My mates and I rented bikes from these guys when we were last there. The price was very competitive, and the bikes were in pretty good shape (better than I expected for Whistler, where they get hammered daily)

Arbutus Routes – Whistler Biking Tours, Rentals and Adventure Travel

EDIT: tried to be clever and insert a GIF, but couldn’t get it right.

Here’s this instead:

Go to a bike shop.

The 2016 SB5c is now 148 rear hub, you might be lucky and still find a 2015.

No. No it’s not. The 6C, yes, but not the 5.
http://www.yeticycles.com/bikes/sb5c

To be fair, I had 140mm on mine and it was enough for me. I raced quite a few local enduros (down here in the south-west) and took it all over Europe riding some pretty hairy stuff, and I found it never felt out of its depth.

It will take up to a 160mm fork, although I reckon that would be too much.

See if you can get a demo on one. You’ll be pleasantly surprised 🙂

They’re not shocks. And they’ll doubtless be far more reliable than the previous eccentric bearing!

This +1

I had an SB5C, and have now moved onto a ’45C (the big-wheeled brother of the SB5C) and have never had nay probs with my switch infinity system.
Yes, mud will collect in around the link, but that’s really not a problem as the seals on the unit just push it out of the way.
I’ve given it a right hammering, and it copes with it admirably.

To the OP, the SB5C would be well worth a look. It’s much more capable than its 127mm travel suggests, and paired with a 150mm fork will pretty much do anything. It’s also 142×12, so you won’t have to change your hub 🙂

Luckily, I’ve had an sb66 (albeit ally) so am in the perfect place to advise 🙂

The 5 is lighter, so it s not quite as planted, but the geo is very similar so it does feel very confident on descents. There’s nothing I wouldn’t do on the 5 that I would have done on the 66.
I had mine with a 140mm fork, although you can go right up to a 160 I believe, but 140 always felt enough for me.
I had 160 on the 66 and found it too much, so I reckon 150 on the sb5 would be perfect.

I don’t think I ever felt that the 5 was out of its depth on any of the rocky stuff I did. Raced it at a fair few enduros too, and it was great!