Forum Replies Created
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Who won the Surly Grappler in 502 Club Raffle?
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pinetreeFree Member
Amazing how everyone’s harping on about other stuff like wheels and cranks when you asked about tyres, as if it’s relevant…
FWIW I’ve got a set- running TRS race up front, TRS+ out back. Yes, they’re expensive, but the grip from em is absolutely mental!
I guess they are a bit draggy, so maybe not the best for big pedally days, but for playing around in the woods I’ve never felt it to be too much an issue.pinetreeFree MemberHow else would they know that the OP was effing and jeffing at them?
Given the OP immediately jumped on a forum and started flaming away, it’s not a great stretch to imagine he’s a somewhat unreasonable and perhaps aggressive fellow.
As I say, I hope (and I’m sure i am) wrong. It was just a thought…
You for or against Man Walking on the Moon in the 60s?
For, but even if I wasn’t, I certainly wouldn’t be the most paranoid person on this thread.
I have checked with a number of cycle shops who ALL agree it is grossly over priced
I suspect that a number of the posts have came from friends of the owner
pinetreeFree MemberJust a thought, for posterity’s sake. How sure are we that Mcc01 is actually Keith @ Mugdock?
If I were a more cynical man I might suggest someone has registered an account and offered a reply designed to entice the customer back in to Mugdock Country Cycles, expecting a partial refund that will never happen, just for giggles.
I really hope I’m wrong and that MCC01 is genuinely the business owner, but this is the internet after all…
pinetreeFree Memberhttp://www.silverfish-uk.com/ProductDetail/8390/14398/Bike-Cover
Would that do you?
pinetreeFree MemberI’m pretty sure I responded to your original thread (when you were so chuffed having just bought the thing) saying it was damn near to make an ASRc ugly. I’m struggling to believe you’ve actually managed it.
This thread is useless without pics.
pinetreeFree Member:EDIT: Beaten to it by all of 43 seconds!
The idea with 35mm was that you could go wider and retain the same stiffness without having to add weight (in some instances actually reducing the weight) rather than simply increasing strength.
As I understand it (using a Raceface Sixc as an example) the 35mm bar at 800mm wide will feel pretty much the same as the 31.8mm at 780 in terms of stiffness, but will be lighter and wider, which seems to be what people want these days.
If you wanted to put the 31.8mm version out to 800mm, you’d either have to thicken it up to make sure it’s just as strong, or accept that it’d feel a bit noodly.All of that is pretty much irrelevant though, as 35mm simply looks cooler. That should be reason enough to keep it 🙂
pinetreeFree MemberShort answer: it’s f**king rad.
I ride an sb45, but if I lived somewhere hillier I’d definitely have the 55.
Test rode it earlier this year thinking it would be way too much (I’m generally of the opinion that no one needs a 160mm bike) but was surprised how well it climbed, and how much fun it was on the way down!pinetreeFree MemberIt’s Dave Hinde isn’t it!?
Who’s Dave Hinde?
*puts fingers in ears and runs away*
pinetreeFree MemberOp just out for a ride along the coast with his homemade dropper post, when all of a sudden…
Quick edit: I suck. Posting from IPad so couldn’t get IMG insert to work.
http://www.imgbase.info/images/safe-wallpapers/space/rocket_launch/35529_rocket_launch.jpg <<< is what I was going for.pinetreeFree MemberI had a set on my last bike and they were absolutely fine. Very reliable, and not too loud (I’m not a fan of shouty hubs)
I recently got a new bike which came with the same wheels but decided on a bit of an upgrade, so I have a brand new unused set for sale incl. tyres. If they would be of any interest to you?
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2104519/Cheers,
ScottpinetreeFree MemberForget everything else! I want to know what happened to DJFlexure’s fork!
pinetreeFree MemberTop pranking!
Yep – do they want to see you in your pants an’ ting ?What you did there… I see it.
pinetreeFree MemberI do love that bike. Really slick, simple and clean looking.
I’ve seen some people try really hard to make them ugly with silly spec and rainbow coloured parts, but I just can’t get away from how good looking a frame it is.Good work, OP!
pinetreeFree MemberWean. As in a Scottish colloquialism for a child.
Mrs Pinetree and I (both Scottish) have just had our first kid, and my mother-in-law insists on calling him a wean. Does my tits in.
Perhaps it’s just because I grew up in one of the nicer parts of western Scotland (yes, they exist) but it just sounds properly scummy to me.
pinetreeFree MemberI’ve got one set up 27.5″ and absolutely love it.
A mate of mine put 29″ with a 140 (or maybe 150) fork on his and absolutely hated it. The BB was apparently way too high and the bike felt very twitchy.I guess with a 120 fork it would be ok, but I like it as it is tbh.
pinetreeFree MemberIf you was to meet this guy
You’ve lost me, OP.
I tend to steer clear of colleagues who don’t understand grammar too. Call me a snob if you like, but I don’t like wasting time conversing with thickos.
pinetreeFree Member@milfordvet – Just out of curiosity, what sort of business are you in?
I’m not a frame builder (so have no idea about the costs involved if you want to make a professional job of it, like Shand do) but I do work in the bike industry, and I’m always interested to hear the backgrounds of those who try to dissect the business models of others in the bike trade.
pinetreeFree MemberSounds like this was made just for you:
http://www.evocsports.com/products/backpacks/fr-porter-18lPricey, but very nice!
pinetreeFree MemberI simply say “ding ding” when approaching
To which people reply “look out dear, there’s a simpleton on a bicycle approaching” presumably, right?
pinetreeFree MemberWatching with this with interest, as I’m in a very similar situation…
Good luck, OP!
pinetreeFree MemberI would have thought it was fairly straight forward to do with a hammer and drift. These OE hubs are rarely complex inside…
Once removed, measure the bearings then order new ones from a bearing factor.
Refit with a bearing press (or socket set if you’re careful) and reassemble.If you can’t figure it out by looking at it, you should probably take it to a bike shop…
pinetreeFree MemberHahaha! The “next” graphic looks as though it’s been drawn on with a silver glitter pen, like the type your aunt writes Christmas cards with (we’ve all got one…)
I wonder how many people actually buy these.
pinetreeFree MemberMudhugger do one specifically for leftys
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha! That looks bloody awful…
@OP – given the lack of an arch on a lefty, you’re going to struggle to get anything that looks decent.
IMO you’d be better off investing in a decent set of clear lenses glasses and just getting on with it.pinetreeFree MemberDo you want it? Is it your money? Can you afford it?
If the answer is Yes to the questions above, then you clearly can justify it. You don’t have to justify yourself to a bunch of forum dwellers 😉
pinetreeFree MemberCracking video! That looks like a proper adventure 🙂
Boring logistical question- once in Durango, how did you go about getting back to Denver?
The US isn’t exactly known for easy rail links, so I imagine it’s a bit of a pain to get all the way back up there!pinetreeFree MemberA brown saddle? Srsly? How old are you? Sixties? Are you really of an age to pass judegement on what looks “good” or not?
30 actually. I was as surprised as you when I put it on, but something about a ti frame with a rigid post and brown saddle… yeah, I kinda like it! As I said before, it’s a matter of personal preference really.
You do realise that 2007 was quite a long time ago, and that the IBeam saddles and posts have changed quite a bit since then, yeah?
pinetreeFree MemberLess comfortable than a railed saddle; more fragile; look utter garbage.
B*llocks; B*llocks; a matter of personal preference.
I’ve been using them for a few years now, and have always got on well with them.
The newer generations have flex built into the beam (some saddles use some kind of honeycomb design in the plastic, which supposedly offers a bit more give)
I have bent rails on a fair few saddles, but have NEVER broken an I Beam saddle or post.
I quite like the way they look- have had a few different I beam saddles. Always really liked the Duster- found it felt very similar to the old FX Saddles, which I really got on with, but is a lot lower profile.
Currently got a really old Bel Air I beam in brown on my hardtail, which I think looks the nuts 🙂pinetreeFree MemberFwiw I strip and rebuild various ejection seats and parts of the Typhoon aircraft for a living so know my way around a toolkit.
So this should be a dawdle for you, yet here we are…
FWIW any other mechanical experience is pretty much irrelevant. I’m a fairly good bike mechanic, but wouldn’t know where to begin with a Typhoon aircraft.I’m with Nobeer on this one: If you can’t figure out a simple matter like this just by looking at it, you probably should take it to a bike shop.
pinetreeFree Member£100 sounds pretty cheap for a fully built bike to be fair. It’s generally done on volumetric weight (which I don’t really understand) but it basically means that full bikes are crazy money to send.
Have you tried stripping it down into 2 or 3 boxes? Sometimes it’s only around £20-25 a box, depending on who you go with (try UPS)
pinetreeFree MemberLot going on in that Yeti link that will wear
There’s really not. A pair of bushings, a pair of seals, and a bit of grease to keep it all moving nicely 🙂
pinetreeFree MemberIf by South West you are in the area of South Wales or coming there soon, let me know dude
Devon, unfortunately, and there’s no way I’m getting up to Wales any time soon. Got a heavily pregnant missus due to drop this week, so f*ck knows when I’ll get to ride my 4.5 again… 🙁
pinetreeFree MemberThis is what intrigues about the Primer – 115mm mode for most home trail riding, 130mm for alpine holidays (with fork adjusted accordingly). None of the reviews I’ve read yet have commented on the shorter setting though.
I’d be interested to know how it affects the geometry, because surely it will work better in one mode than the other?
It just seems like a bit of a gimmick to me, and that you’d end up with a compromise in both… Like I said, the mm travel on paper doesn’t really bear much relevance in my opinion.
I’d happily take my bike to the alps and smash it down most everything (Pleney’s rough as shit with a 200mm bike, so I don’t imagine having a 130mm bike would be any different to a 115)pinetreeFree MemberI think this is a load of balls personally
Couldn’t agree more. People get really hung up on the numbers, but forget that mm travel is just one part of the bigger picture. How a bike rides will depend on geometry, suspension platform, component choice and so on… A few mm of extra travel very rarely makes a huge difference to a bike.
Like I say, the 4.5 is an amazing bike. I’ve not know anyone who’s been disappointed with it.
pinetreeFree Member@Bigjim – Pretty light. Maybe 12-12.5kg? (Size M) I’m not sure as I’ve changed a few bits over since I last weighed it (heavier tyres, lighter cranks etc…)
Pinetree – Some of the reviews are talking about the mismatched front and rear travel lengths, do you feel that’s an issue after owning one? point taken about the lack of ISCG/front mech mount too…yours looks mint too!
Not at all. All Yetis have relatively mismatched travel, which doesn’t make sense on paper, but is completely irrelevant when you actually ride them. The Switch Infinty system works real well, and kinda makes it feel like a 130mm bike. Maybe someone more tech-savvy (read: Nerdy) than myself could point out the subtle differences in the suspension characteristics, but to me it’s always ridden like a much bigger bike than it is (the SB5 i had before was the same)
Put it this way- I’ve chucked it down some pretty hairy stuff, and never felt that it was out it’s depth.Regarding the front mech thing; I haven’t run a front mech on an MTB in a good few years, so it’s not really an issue for me. I like 1x drivetrains, and the gear spread is getting so wide now that a front mech is redundant for a lot of people, myself included.
The ISCG thing- yeah i kinda get the gripe, but it’s a superlight trail bike, so I’m not really sure it’s necessary. If you’re doing the kind of riding where you’re smashing the bike through big rocks and clattering the chainring, you probably want the 5.5 rather than the 4.5 (FWIW, I’ve ridden the 5.5 and was absolutely blown away by it, but it’s too big of a bike for 99% of the riding I do)Just my 2 pence 🙂
If you find yourself down in the south-west and fancy a spin on mine, give me a shout.