There was a guy on Bike Radar who did this a few years back. He used a similar system to Lapiere ie using a fork mounted accelerometer to control the compression damping on the shock.

I think he took it quite far, got a working prototype, then he got some interest from someone in the industry who possibly bought his IP and he had to stop posting updates.
I remember that! Fox told him to wind his neck in.

Yeah, to do it properly, you would need to map all the data of how your particular bike rides and the exact position on the terrain it was captured on. That’s when I gave up!
Mine is still in the proto stage, haven’t fitted it to the bike yet. The main reason why i want it, is if the shock is in Climb and I start heading down a trail, I have to stop to change it to Trail or Descend.

I have made a manual fox CTD servo operated lever. I looked into the realms of making it automatic, sensing the terrain to adjust the shock and fork. There are so many permutations that needed to be coded into the arduino, I gave up. I think manual selection is so so much better. And fool proof.

For instance, you could be cycling along a smooth trail, like at CyB, then hit a root, rock or drop off. If you’re going at a fair pace, your forks could still be locked out or have a higher compression setting, and you could have a nasty hit.
I did think about leaving the forks open (I hardly ever change the compression on them anyway) and have an accelerometer on the crown, sensing the trail and changing the shock settings to match. But my CTD selection is so easy to use, I prefer the manual approach.
OP, are you using Arduino for your project? Will be good to hook up and share ideas.

£6 posted for 2.
If the 0.6 and the 0.8 will work for ya you might as well go for those.
If not, I can post some to you.

No but I make them on the famous 3D printer…

I am doing a run of Magicshine 880 go pro mounts, so if there are guys who need mounts for that light, or any other light for that matter, email is in my profile.
£5 delivered.

Cheers!

Shed, can you email me as I have your mounts ready for sending.
Cheers

Nixon, that’s a really low profile mount, what is it? I like it!

Here they are! I few more holes to drill, then I’ll send them. You can’t use a drill as it tends to rip the plastic. Spinning the bits by hand, 0.5mm increments :?

Could gav and j273 email me if you haven’t already.
Easier to remember real names!

Orders now closed!

Excellent, I’ll get printing!
James, how far is the cable from the hole on your light? And how long do you need your mount? I notice on your light the mount sits on the smaller diameter portion.
The printer can print all the parts at the same time even if they are different so don’t worry if you guys want differences between the mounts. The plastic is easily filed or drilled so modification at home is easy.
So, James wants mounts allowing for the cable,
Bent udder wants Solar Storm mounts,
Shed wants Solar Storm mounts

Any one else?

My bad! its not easy at work as they block all image hosting sites on the work PC’s and wifi.

GoPro SSSX2dwg by andrewfraser036[/url], on Flickr

GoPro SSSX2 by andrewfraser036[/url], on Flickr

Thanks for all the pictures and dimensions guys. Here is a quick drawing, very similar to mine actually. I looked at the idea of having a center raised portion to sit in the light groove, but then you wont get the slight left and right adjustment. I can easily put it in if needed.
As you can see, there is 23mm of plastic for the light to sit on. The light is 42mm long. Would you want the mount longer? I wouldn’t worry about the printed mount slipping in the GoPro mount, it sits nice and tight in there. If you find the bigger lights do slip down, we can make adjustments.

If there isn’t any feedback on the proposed design, I will print off a load over the weekend and we can see how they work out.

Thanks for all the emails, I will reply this evening individually.

jamesfts – Member

Bit late to the party but I’d also be very interested in this if that’s ok?

Will get the light and mounts out and do some measuring/scribbling and try to work out a secure, low profile way of doing it.

Of course! That would be great, my email is in the profile. I will send a render of the proposed mount for you to see before I print them.

carlphillips – Member

yes bud i’d like to try one out.
I have a troutlite can send dimensions/pics later if you need them but it has a flat base to glue/fix to..
mail in profile if you want to sort out details payment/post etc
Posted 1 hour ago # Report-Post

shedbrewed – Member

Likewise but I wanted the mount to be sacrificial in case I twatted a tree with my head. There are a lot of low hanging trees where I ride.

Cool, send me any dimensions of the Trout light and Shedbrewed, can you send me the dims of the SSX2 as well. I’ll knock up a few different ones with a wasted portion designed to shear at the weekend and send them out for you to try.
The plastic is easily filed, so if they are not quite right, you can file them to fit. Then if you want a re printed one, just show me what you have adjusted so I can redraw them.
My email is in my profile too.

Cheers

I like that!
Do you other guys still want some mounts to trial?

spooky_b329 – Member

I’ve seen strength mentioned a few times, but no one considering if the mount will brake off in a crash or colliding with a branch.

Most helmet mounted lights can come off easily, my ayups for example are held with a rubber band that locates over a nub at the rear so the light can come off fairly easily. A nylon bolt would presumably offer a similar breakable point.

Just let me say, 3D printed parts are plenty strong enough if printed properly and used as designed. Like anything really.

I use a screw with a wasted portion, that snaps before the threads in the aluminium light housing are damaged. Other than the oring attached lights and the old L&M, I dont think any others have strain relief in their mounts. Easy enough to print a part of the mount that would break should you want it, but then the mount will be forever useless. I think he screw with the wasted portion is the way to go. I can supply the correct size screw / bolt too.

The dims dont have to be very accurate, just so the button and cable don’t
foul with the mount.
Gav, you can flip the mount to get the light to shine lower.
The beauty of a 3d printer, is anything is possible. If your mount sits more to the rear of the helmet, I can make the mount to suit. My light sits right in the centre of my lid, less stress on my neck.

How about I make a few different ones for you guys to try? All I ask is that the postage is covered? Funds are tight at the mo!

What size bolts are used on the solar storm? I’ll need to know for the hole. Or would you rather I not drill a hole, then you can get the light in the perfect position to suit you.

Yes I can. Just confirm the dims I asked a few posts up and I can print one or two for ya. It will be white though as thats the only colour I have at the mo

Here is my light and mount. Mounts can be made into any config to suit your light.

Forgive me, I’m on an iPhone and can’t seem to get the img to work!

Edit: It worked!

Thanks hot_fiat!!

My mounts make the light sit a lot lower. It sits in front of the mount, so the cable and switch will be either side of the go pro clamp. A lot less chance of snagging.
Haven’t got any pics with me at work but can take a few tonight.

Gav, are these dims correct? Can you give me the centers of the switch and cable exit, and how far the switch sits proud please. Then I know how long I need to make the part.

Ahh, picture not working…

bent udder – Member

This looks like a cracking product idea. I don’t own a GoPro, but I’d quite likely buy the mounts to use with my Solarstorms if they offered more security than the lashups I use at the mo.
A particular problem I see is helmet mounts that are too clunky, not stable enough or a combination of the two.

I can make them very low profile. The base of my light is at the same hight as the helmet mount. And I make them so the light is fully adjustable in all planes. I suppose I could buy a solarstorm and make up some custom mounts if there is enough interest.

Oh, how does the mount attach to the light at the moment? Let me know how you get on, I can send you a printed mount to try.

I guarantee you wont be able to break it through normal use. You will most probably snap the screw holding it to the light before the mount gives way.
Is that your setup in the picture?

I have a 3D printer and I print go pro mounts for my lights…

hopster – Member

Ideally something like this on a go pro mount would be my preference.
Gloworm.

Can someone with a 3d printer create a mount?

Did you just email me Hopster? If not, I can make 3d printed mounts, just need the drawings and exact dims.

got mine to fit with a nice home solution. That is, home solution if you have CAD and access to a 3D printer! Cut and shut – GoPro bottom half, Ayup top half

Same here! Let me know what you need Hopster, and I can make a light mount to fit a gopro mount. I made a 1200Lm light and added a 3d printed gopro mount. Very stable on the bars or head

followed the Shimano instructions to the letter with their bleed kit and got a good bleed first time. I would recommend that approach as a result.

This!

Especially the 1/8th of a turn bit! I started at para 4 as there is already oil in the system, i also only opened the nipple 1/8th. Worked first time, no probs.

Yeah, i found 1/4 too much. I opened the top of the lever too, to make sure the reservoir is full and you’re not forcing a load of air though. Once bled, I fitted the top cap and dripped a few drops through that top bleed hole, before fitting the screw.
That was without a fancy kit though, really like the look of the Epic kit!

I had problems when I first did mine. How far are you opening the bleed nipple on the caliper? It only needs 1/8 of a turn at the most. Once I realised this, I bled both with in 5 mins. Follow the Shimano instructions to the letter, you’ll be fine!

You say driving long journeys as opposed to short ones for regens to occur passively. I used to have a 50 mile commute, where I sat in 6th gear at 1500rpm for over an hour each way.. That certainly wasn’t enough as it regen’d every 300 miles, with out fail. Forscan, plugged into the OBD port confirmed this.
So, they want yo to drive long distance as higher revs. So much for ‘reducing emmisions’.

Lucky. Mine has given up the ghost I think.

+1 for Zooplus

Had a peek, just a part number, so thats a start.

Another user of the Aldi watch here, so far so good. One question I have to users of this watch is can you set it to autopause? Have sometimes stopped it for coffee stops and then forgotten to restart, does anyone know?

I don’t think so. Last nights ride had an avg of 9.7mph on the watch, after uploading to strava, obviously went up to 11.1. I have used the Start Stop button but that only works if I remember to restart after stopping!
Suppose if you upload your ride to some software it’ll do the autopause for you.Is your HRM still working?

I use one of the Aldi £70 jobs. Absolutely perfect. Its isnt too big, battery lasts longer than the garmins and up loads to Strava without any dramas. You can configure what you want on the display and it has a HRM.
http://road.cc/content/news/121748-bargain-gps-watch-headlines-latest-aldi-cycling-offers

Thanks! I’ll have a gander tonight

Google Mintyboost. Then make your own, using as many 18650s as you want. It also runs off AA batteries.
I added a li ion charging circuit, also from Adafruit. Now I can recharge the 18650 pack from a USB plug.
Let me know if you need any more help!