Super, thanks!

Thanks @jsync !

jsync, this probably sounds very cheeky, but are you going to sell your 35? My wife keeps borrowing my Fenix 3 for her runs!

FS1328, this is the Boost one. Just make sure the rest of the dims work with your frame. It comes with spacers to fit different down tubes. Got mine from Bikemonger

https://problemsolversbike.com/products/shifters-derailleurs/direct_mount_-_25344

Have a look at Problem Solvers. Only solution I found for my Fargo.

You will have the same amount of espresso if the amount of grinds you place in the portafilter remains the same.
Put differently, the weight of coffee you place in the portafilter determines the weight of espresso you get out. Not the strength.
With a double spout, you’ll just get two smaller, same strength espressos.

A blind portafilter is great as it shows you how good or bad your distribution and hence your extraction is.

I’ve got a set of Roval 29mm internal for sale…
Think they are still in the Classifieds. Price is negotiable!

My daughter has some snazzy Specialized ones. Small enough for toddlers.

93 degrees is the industry standard for specialty coffee – I’m not sure what your point is. If you entered the World Barista Championship you would find that the machine would be set at this level.

OK. When I was last at the WBC, the barista gets to choose his or her temperature, between 90.5 and 96 degrees. This is then set and verified by an appointed person from the sponsored machine manufacturer. I do not know of a single barista worth his salt that does not fiddle with the temp to bring out the best in every coffee. That and grind are crucial, hence the need for a decent grinder.

And back to the OP’s question. You can fit an off the shelf PID easily and it will improve the small espresso machines drastically.

EDIT: Oh, it’s para 4.1 of the 2019 rules if you’re interested.

I don’t know much about coffee, but might be able to help with your PID tuning, I’ve worked on thermal systems for 20yrs.

That would be grand, thank you! I did use the Ziegler-Nichols method for the machine when it’s at rest, waiting to be used. I have a delta T of about 0.5 degrees, not happy with that but it’ll do! It’s the slow reaction to the in rush of cold water into the boiler that has me stumped. We can take this to the PM if that’s ok with you?
Cheers

It’s my own PID, using the standard algorithms. One PID for steady state (waiting to brew and intra shot stability) and one for during the shot. That’s the one i am struggling with.

You can’t simply use PID values from another machine. You don’t know it’s temperature saturation rate, power of the heater element, location of thermocouple etc etc.
Just like you won’t recommend a setting for my EK43 as you don’t know my bean, roast etc. Those chaps on the coffee forums just use autotune. Something I could do but I want to learn how it works. And they aren’t striving for perfection! 0.5 degree error is too much for me. It’s all about learning something.
I could also just sell the EK43 and get a pod machine (using your pods of course!) and settle for average.

Anyway, starting lighter roasts with a hotter brew temp (to move them away from sour) and dark roasts with cooler water (to move them away from bitter) is the norm. Not the 93 degrees you mention for a light roast. I hope that was a typo on your part!

@gonefishin , I’m all ears if you can help!

Tell me you didn’t put derivative control on temperature!

Ahh, hopefully you can help then?! I’m trying to set the values with next to no idea what I am doing!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QhcvTNqTVc152qYf8

Here’s mine, painted black. PID controller is at the bottom with the the red and green digits.
My home made touch screen with its own PID algorithms and brew control is up top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QhcvTNqTVc152qYf8

Gaggia Baby and Classic are identical inside. Well, the older ones are. Tonnes of spares available online and easy to take apart and service at home.
You can get a Rancilo steam wand and fit that. The stock Baby one is pants.
Regarding temp control, if you can operate a screwdriver, you can fit a PID controller to stabilise the temperature. Cheap as chips on eBay. I can help with that if you like.

It uses standard size filter baskets so you can use IMS or VSD shower screens.

But as said before, the grinder is more important! Have you got one?

Hot water with citric acid will work better than cola.

Torchy the battery boy on eBay. Or RS Components. Panasonic are considered very good too.

Have a look at http://www.mywindsock.com
Sync it to your Strava account and it’ll show you the penalty for riding into the wind. My 23 mile commute had a 9 mile penalty every morning these last two weeks!

The wind direction in East Anglia changes in the afternoon. So every morning I am gifted with the most delightful headwind, but by the afternoon it’s shifted enough to become a side wind which is full of surprises. My Garmin thought I had crashed and sent an alert message because I was leaning over so much!

23 miles each way. Car hit 200k miles and died. So I’ll be on the bike for the foreseeable!
Having two bagels with peanut butter and Nutella for breakfast is one of the perks!

Very good! Had to log back in to reply as it only clicked 5 mins later!

No, ANT+ is a separate protocol. I use the Anself one from eBay, works perfectly.

I have a 705 I found at Dusk til Dawn in 2012. It was battered, no wonder no-one came to collect it! Still going strong, as long as it’s plugged into the dynamo when it’s cold.

My Mondeo diesel experienced the same symptoms your Mazada is getting. Turned out to be a fuel pressure regulator. It was intermittent and would not regulate the fuel correctly.

I have a set of nearly new 25mm internal DT wheels in the classifieds…

Sorry, not 1501 wheels, they are E1900 25mm internal

I have the same bike, with a set of 29er boost wheels. The BB height is a lot better, no pedal strikes when running the 29er with a Nic and a Ron. The 3″ fatties really annoy me!

I am selling them though… DT 1501…Used once round Thetford. I’ll place an ad up or you can get in touch.

There will be zero heat transfer required from 5mm LEDs. They will go pop before they get even slightly warm.

40mA * 6v = 0.24w. Nowt.

I like your design! The idea I have in my head for a very similar light to what you’re making, is vertical in layout.

I remember the bflex drivers, i still have a couple lying around I think. Wonder if TaskLED is still going strong?

Tell you what mowgli, I’ll 3d print a housing for you. Just cover the postage by chucking a couple of quid in a charity box.

What sort of clamp will you be using? Or I can print one that will clamp to the seat post. What’s your seat tube angle?

The more people that tinker and make things, the better off everyone will be. We’ll probably start to rely on it come Brexit!

I made my own dynamo light with stand light, I have yet to see a brighter LED dynamo light. It’s not shit either. It survived Mountain Mayhem, two winters of commuting, and one 600km audax so far.

Looking at the link in the OPs first post, all the electronics and standlight gubbins are housed in the front light.

This assumes the OP is in fact using the E3 light to power this DIY rear light. If not, yes, it will need some sort of voltage / current control.

I’ve seen close to 100v on a unloaded dynamo, at 35 mph. Be careful!

Those clear bodied LEDs have a very directional light output. So unless they are pointing directly at the observer, they wont appear to be very bright. But looking at them straight on, they are very bright.

The red bodied ones, emit their light in all directions.

MCD, it is measured in one point, ie. intensity. So the clear LED will have a higher number if it is measured directly in front of it.

If you were to use an integrating sphere and measure the lumens, ie, the total light output of the LED in all directions is measured, the lumen value would probably be the same for the clear and red.

Think of it as a torch with a focus-able beam. With a tight beam the light appears brighter than if it was set to light up a wide area. You have not changed the LED or the power to the LED, so lumens are the same. Just the intensity changes.

Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, I used to build LEDs lights so became a bit of an LED geek!

Am I looking a tthe right sort of thing with these?

No, their fwd voltage is greater than 2v. Stick with RS, the ones on the link are all 2v LEDs.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/displays-optoelectronics/leds-led-accessories/visible-leds/?applied-dimensions=4294380283,4293564443,4293617137,4293267418,4294817747,4294376730

You can select the desired forward voltage in the selection tree on the left. That link should work and take you the the LEDs you need

Not fibre, normal BT to EE. I found the EE router to be so much more reliable than the BT one. No drop outs ever, whereas the BT one was pants.

My protein impact whey, salted caramel. Delicious

Yes.

As long as your gear levers are bar mount, ie, clamp to the bar and not the levers.

ispec allows the gear shifter to be mounted to the brake lever, reducing one extra clamp on the bars, but it reduces the options to fine tune your ‘cockpit’

Also read a bit on fasted rides, mix that with the z2 stuff 1x a week and you’ll eventually lose that sugar dependency.

Yes, this. I used to rely on jelly babies for my 23 mile commute each way. After many early morning TrainerRoad sessions that were fasted, I no longer crave the sugar I used to. Infact, it makes me feel worse.

Proper ‘whole food’ is all I need to fuel long rides.

Garmin Connect iOS app definitely does it.

Sell your B shifter and buy a new ii shifter. I had the same issue last week and that was the cheapest solution I found.

gray beat me to it. I started off with a cheapo Bluetooth speed and cadence sensor and my iPhone with TrainerRoad.

I have a free month for you when Gray’s expires!