The k-lite stuff is very good and very efficient.
If you are riding to charge a powerbank, then using that powerbank to charge you gadgets, you are losing out. Better to charge them all directly.
Still take the powerbank, but I reckon you can manage it all so everything is nicely topped up by the evening.

I ride with a dynamo and a 5v system to charge phone, GPS and watch. GPS really struggles so needs almost constant charging, so at night I have a small powerbank to power it as I ride through the night. I have made my own 5v system with 2 USB ports and a switch to select what I want to give power to. Saves trying to swap cables mid ride or when it’s raining.

One thing to look at in a powerbank is USB C with quickcharge 3.0 for charging the powerbank. Then you will get more charge during your coffee stop.

Another point, if it’s really hilly like in Wales, you will be climbing for a long time, at slow speeds. This speed may not produce enough current to charge anything. Then your descent is fast, but short, not enough time to charge any worthy amount. I do not rely on a dynamo for offroad or very hilly rides. Offroad, the diameter of the wheel is most likely larger, so it is effectively turning slower – less current.

If he’s on PC, download Golden Cheetah, then you can download workouts on TrainerDay. Both are free. Golden Cheetah can control a smart trainer. Then use youtube or netflix for the entertainment.

PM sent

Bump for the evening crowd

Thanks kayla1

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/derailleurs-rear/gs-shimano-105-rd5701-10-speed-rear-derailleur-black/?geoc=US
I have a 105 GS 10sp with the same front chainrings as you but a 11-34 cassette. Works perfectly.

Haha! You’re not wrong.
Got some bad news in the family so I knocked up a route and opened a donation page. I set out to complete it in 30 Hours, came in in just over 28.5.
Feeling it now!

Headed out for a ride early Friday morning, turned out to be a bit of an epic one

The Halfords one is only £6.
I trashed a cheap road tyre that I fitted. It got too hot and delaminated. Then went bang.
There is a lot less drift from the trainer tyre too.

When I bought my Stumpy the shock made a noise on the first couple of rides. All gone now

Quite partial to my Fargo with Hope bling

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anself-Stick-Garmin-Forerunner-310XT/dp/B075LH3QVN

Yup, try an ant+ dongle. Works on my PC.

But also turn off all Bluetooth connections as sometimes one communication band can block the other b that’s certainly the case with Tacx and Golden Cheetah.

Anker here too. £18-ish. Solid.

Are you wanting to connect to a PC? I’m using Golden Cheetah for my workouts and it works well with a speed and cadence sensor and their virtual power curves.
PM sent too

https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/lets-see-your-paincave/375/646
Plenty of ideas on this thread.
I have two 24″ monitors mounted on the wall in my garage with am 18″ fan from Wicks.

One thing I keep see being recommended is a wifi plug for the fan. Then you can turn it on and off from your phone without getting off the bike. After a set of over unders, I can barely get off the bike to turn the fan on!

So you opened the calliper nipple only slightly and then just pulled the lever to force fluid out as normal?

Yes, then just bled as normal. I must have gone through about 100mls of fluid before I realised my error. I was surprised

I found only opening the nipple on the caliper a fraction. Instructions say 1/8th of a turn. I was opening it far too much to start with and was getting nowhere.

Edge Explore. Plan the route on your phone, upload it and ride. Simples.

How are you going to power your fan? You are going to need one!

I too used to make LED lights. Even bought a lathe. Then the Chinese market quickly made DIY lights pointless.
I have made a dynamo light, triple XM-L light that’s super bright, single XM-L head lights. Did some home anodising too, that was fun as it was always a lucky dip as to what colour you were going to get, even though the die was black!

I am working through a new pcb design for the dynamo light as I want it to fit into the steerer. It’ll have a USB out too. There will be pcbs available if anyone want to build one too.

Mine had a similar problem. Car now has a new engine after too much cranking with no fuel flow by the garage. Fuel pump on the engine seized, snapping the drive from the exhaust cam. Bits fell into the engine…
Mine also started out with P0087,Fuel Rail/System Pressure – Too Low

Buy a reconned fuel pump from eBay and chuck that on to try. You can always return it if it doesn’t work.

Yes, that light is just the light. It’s plenty bright!
One thing though, buy genuine CREE LEDs, the cheaper ones from the Far East didn’t behave probably.

How does it measure speed, or is it measuring the voltage?

I suppose one way would be to make a circuit act like the MPPT on a solar panel, constantly tweeking the impedance to maximize (or generate a fixed) output power.

Yup, a dual monostable multivibrator was used. It switched a third LED in at a certain speed. If I tried this a too low a speed, there was flickering. A few test runs up and down the raod a night was needed to find the sweet spot.

Back of a fag packet, but at ~100lumen/watt the Revo must generate about 8W at 17mph unless my efficiency figure is way out. Though suppose as it’s a dynamo/light bundle they can do more clever stuff in matching the load to they dynamo to maximize the power generated.

Yes I reckon they have invested a lot into theirs! My info was a few years old. The XP-G LEDs that are in the Revo are capable of 200 lm/watt. And that’s at 350mA, most likely the output of the dynamo. Amazing little things! So that goes back to 4w to give 800 lumens.

All about dynamos and charging

Discussion with circuit designer

Here is a link to the forum where I worked through the light.
I have an EasyEDA account with the schematics, so if you want to build it, it’s worth getting an account (it’s free) so I can share the files with you.

@supersessions9-2 Certainly! You are in luck as I have a few circuit boards left over. No components though

To get really geeky, you need to be able to match the load to the dynamo. The inductive resistance of the windings determine the power output in relation to speed.
Whatever happens, you are unlikely to get over 4w from a dynamo, regardless of your max speed.
I have not matched my load to the dynamo! It just works. Provides more light that I need at night, and keeps my Garmin powered all day. Keeps my phone topped up if I do not use it too much.

This is exactly how I built my dynamo light. 3 X-ML LEDs. 2 come on at low speed, above 14kph the third one turns on.
You are correct that it’s constant current, but the load will drag the voltage down if you are not going fast enough. Voltage is needed to ‘push’ the current. You could use a switch mode power supply to charge batteries at a higher rate when going fast.
I used a Traco 5v 1A SMPS to supply my USB out.

I’d read that blog linked above, so true.
I did a 500km ride in Wales, gravel and road with 10000m climbing, on a road bike with a dynamo. I battled to keep things charged. Admittedly I used my phone for pics and social media updates, but the slow climbing speeds didn’t allow for charging. Then the descents which were fast, were not long enough before another climb started.

In the valleys and flat sections it works great, but in mountainous terrain, I’d rather take a powerbank that allows for rapid charging from a plug point. The USB-C ones allow for that.

Remember, the larger your wheel & tire combo, the slower the hub will spin. For that reason, I have not fitted one to my Fargo with 29 x 3″.

I bought all my spares from here
Mr Bean2Cup

They also have diagrams that can help. Most of the internal parts are common with the Classic. Not the steam valve though!
If you find you have a lot of scale in your machine, you can split the boiler to give it a good clean. You will need a new boiler gasket as it’s definitely not reusable.
If it’s in bits and you want to have a play, look at adjusting the opv. Bring the brew pressure down to 10bar as it’s a lot higher on these machines for use with pods. I have a gauge that I can send to help with setting it up.

IKEA? There are 5 plugs but I’m only using 3. Colour changing too!

Yup, that’s the one I used I think. Looks identical.
Here’s a helpful vid

Yup, 99 times out of 100 it’s the solenoid valve!

Mine is the flexi pipe onto the ball joint. The upgrade does work. It all snaps together. Carefully pry it apart with a small flat blade screwdriver. There are vids online too. Probably easier than reading my waffle.
And yes, try and keep the original o-ring.

And descaling! There are instructions online. Or put some kettle descaling stuff in the water tank. Warm up the machine. Remove the shower screen and then the two caphead screws under the shower screen. The aluminium lump can then be carefully pried out. There is usually a build up of scale on this and can be cleaned separately.

Purge the machine with the descale liquid in the tank. Turn the machine off and wait a few mins. Turn it on, run some more through. Turn off.

Don’t forget to open the steam valve when the pump is running. This will send the descale stuff through the valve. However if it’s blocked you will have to sort that out first. Do this a few times and rinse really well.

If you’ve still got the pannarello steam wand, the fat black one, this is a simple upgrade and makes amazing milk.
Better explanation in the link. Very easy to fit too.
Link

Sounds like your steam thermostat is knackered.
You can check it if you have a multimeter. Strip the top cover of screws and remove the steam knob. Power up the machine and let it get hot and wait for the fuse to trip.
UNPLUG THE MACHINE!
Remove the cover quickly and measure continuity across the pins of the thermostat. If it’s a closed circuit, ie, there are ohms showing on the multimeter, the thermostat is buggered. You can pick them up for a fiver online.

When did you last descale it? If you haven’t upgraded the wand, now’s a good time to do so! Let me know if you need any more info. I have restored many of these machines.

I’ve just moved from TR to Maximum Trainer and will link them to Golden Cheetah.

Maximum Trainer is similar to TR. You can use other people’s workouts or create your own in ERGdb. Google it.

You don’t need a PM in MT as it had its own version of virtual power. Select your trainer in the settings and you’re good to go. Just keep tyre pressure and friction settings consistent.

Any questions just ask!

Can you apply an offset to the new PM? On Golden Cheetah you can to that.
Listening to the TrainerRoad podcasts, they do say different PMs will always read differently.
56/44 seems quite common, again from listening to the TR podcasts.

Could you have subconsciously tweaked the way you ride to give you big numbers on your stages?

This rings true for me. Before I fitted a PM (left crank) my legs were the same size. However, after 2 years of riding and training with the left side PM, my left leg is noticeably bigger and stronger then the right. Probably not a 70/30 split though!
Can you get on a Wattbike or other bike with a left & right PM and check?