Thestabiliser

So do I!
Installing a new fire alarm system

If I disable as blocker (sorry!) the pics reappear

Garmin replaced my out of warranty Fenix 6X as it stopped recording HR when it was warm.

Went through their support system, the usual turn it off and back on again, then more in-depth stuff.

In the end, they sent a SAE and I returned mine and got a new (refurbished, but immaculate) one the next day.

Lael Wilcox didn’t have that problem as she rode to the start line. From Mexico.

When the time came to buy a new MTB I bought a hardtail,

Since I took my Fargo with 3″ Chronicles around Thetford, I have never wanted any other bike around there. Makes the trails so fun (compared to a full suss around Thetford of course!)

Christ, that’s at least 2 stowmartians on here

Three then!

My full suss hardly gets used. Salsa Fargo for Thetford or Tunstall, other than that, it’s the road bike.

That’s good to know, thanks. Luckily my wait time is only about 20weeks! Actually means the car should arrive in time for my pay rise, so works out well.

Seriously considering the MG ZS EV.

Ahh yes, of course the pension is related to pay roll. I’ll have better luck asking Tusker about it 😩

I’m about to order an EV through Tusker too. Need to read the small print regarding pension.
We’re they easy to deal with? How long did the ordering process take?

When I had tight IT bands, it was because of something else. Foam rolling was prescribed as complementary to fixing the issue. Mine was weak glute max, which let the IT band become irritated.

Look at glute strengthening exercises. I then had to roll the glute first to loosen it, then the band.

But was told rolling just the band and not addressing the issue was like putting a bandage over a bleed but not repairing the leaking artery!

My work is now offering the salary sacrifice scheme.
Seriously looking at the MG ZS Trophy Connect. It has all the toys the more expensive cars have, claimed 276 miles range and a decent sized boot. Leaf is the only other affordable one but it’s a bit too small for my needs.
Anyone looked at the MG. Yes it’s a Chinese car essentially, but it’s made by a huge corporation, and on the scheme I need not worry about maintenance issues.

I missed it!
But thanks, still don’t understand the relation, will have to Google it

Complete, thanks all!

79!
Fedora (?) hat has me baffled. Anyone care to help?!
Thanks all for the other hints

I’d go for PID over a gauge any day. Once you have the pressure dialled in, the gauge becomes redundant as it doesn’t change. Provided the grind is the same, beans fresh bla bla bla. You can set it up with a gauge mounted on a portafilter. I could lend you mine.

PID is simple, plenty of tutorials online and really worth it.

I had a Gaggia Baby which I never left alone. Exactly the same internals. One ‘mod’ I found that helped was to insulate the boiler with some pipe lagging. Held the temp better, and used less energy. Cup warmer is already useless, so wasn’t concerned that it was not going to be as warm.

If you are wanting to make the most out of the machine, I’d really recommend a PID controller. Just means a more stable temp range, as the thermostat type switch creates wild swings. You can get kits or just buy the parts yourself.

PID controller, solid state relay and a thermocouple.

As your machine is already in bits…

Tony Parks, adventures through Africa, brilliant books

@dantsw13
Thanks for the heads up.
Hoping the sale of the Mondeo will pay for the charger. Or at least the cable installation!

I’ve looked at PHEVs, and quickly discounted them. Buying another ICE isn’t really going to save me money as I’m currently getting a real 59mpg. Any newer second hand car in my price range can’t quite achieve that. So I’ll still be paying for the car AND petrol / diesel. Plus insurance, tax, MOT servicing etc.

With the salary sacrificed EV, it’s as dantsw13 put it, a huge saving on fuel and cost of ownership.

I’m only looking at cars with over 200mile range. Then I am guaranteed at least one and a half round trips. Small top up at home if necessary, but main charging at work.

Found out last night it’s actually the 22kW charger! In 7kW guise now, until we run the 3ph supply to it. Handy working in the Engineering department. Once more people adopt EVs, we will be installing more Podpoints in the carpark too.

So looking at that, I hope a salary sacrificed EV is looking more favourable

I’d love to live closer to work!
When the Mondeo needed an engine swap, I ended up riding a 60 mile round trip to work, each and every day for 11 week (didn’t realise the mechanic would that that long). In Feb / Mar.
So now I enjoy driving!

That’s fantastic info, thank you. Around the price I was looking at.
Yes, the Skodas do have a lot of optional extras, interesting to know how they are costed in. Yup, unfortunately my annual mileage bis high, but the reliability will be worth it.

My manager has an EV so we managed to install a Pod Point at the back of the warehouse, with a little hatch to access the lead. Shhh!

Going from a 57 plate Mondeo with 240k on the clock, I should save about £240 a month in diesel, tax and insurance, not mentioning tyres and servicing, MOT etc. So it’s not going to cost tooooo much.

I’m interested in this. My company are signing up to Tusker, wish I hadn’t read about them inflating prices!

@dantsw13
Do you mind looking at the costs of a Niro 3 or Enyaq 80 for 36 months / 25k miles pretty please?
Unfortunately I have a 100 mile round trip most days, but can charge at work for free so can offset the cost a little there.
Thanks

Paddy & Scotts

I’ve been using these. Prefer them to the supermarket coffees

It’ll be a buck driver, like the B2Flex Stumpy mentioned as they use a 2 cell battery.

First, confirm the battery voltage is correct, assuming you don’t have the low battery warnings. Always better to test the easy stuff first!

Do you have a multi meter? You can then test the voltage to the LED when the high setting is selected. You will want about 3v on the LED. If not, the board is probably goosed. It is very unlikely you’ll have the 3v there and LED has failed.
However, here is an LED you can surface mount in if needed…
XM L2
And a driver…I have only used TaskLED ones, they are the dogs danglies. I have some of the older BFlex V3 ones which will work too.
taskLED

If you don’t get any luck, send me some pics of the Y junction. If I have the correct size heat shrink, pop it in the post with an SAE and I’ll do it for ya

I’ll happily send you mine if you can send me an SAE…

Lascar USB

I have one of these. You set it up on the PC, set the time you want to start the data logging, then it starts automatically for the set time. Configurable frequency etc. Exports to Excel or spreadsheet of your choice.

I do not need it any more as it’s done it’s one and only job for me… PM if you’re interested!

Sounds like a great challenge!
Only carry what you absolutely need. Weight is the enemy here. Are you self supported or do you have someone following?
Keep eating. You need to keep energy coming in.
Pacing. Find a pace that you can stick to. If your legs start burning at the start of a climb, you’re going to hard and won’t make it up.
Gears. I have an 11-32 (11-34 if I know it’s going to be particularly brutal!) and 50/34 for Wales. Don’t let ego or peer pressure stop you running the right gears.
And if it’s a super steep climb, walking may not be any slower, but it’ll give your cycling muscles a rest!

I had to buy one direct from Tacx. 4 week lead time though

I’ve found prices have skyrocketed. I need everything bar wheels, crank and bars.
Going for a Shimano 11×2 105 set up.

I was hoping for all the dentists getting DI2 for Christmas and then selling on their 105 or Ultegra, but that didn’t seem to have happened!

Yup, can’t hurt to replace it. Clean both parts really well. Then apply a THIN layer. The paste there to fill in all the little gaps and fissures between the two mating faces. Too much and it starts acting as an insulator. But that’s when there is loads.

Do you have a multimeter? You can measure the voltage of the fully charged battery pack. You’re looking for 8.4v fully charged.
Turn your light onto max. Measure. If the voltage drops below 6.2v, the battery pack is likely goosed. A li-ion cell below 3.1v is knackered. The magic shine batteries are 2 cells in series, with 2 in parallel.

Thermal cutoff will be above 60 degrees, so you can also touch the heatsink and see. It it’s too hot to touch, it’ll likely be around 60 degrees. Unless you have asbestos fingers!

Carbonda didn’t have any of the 15mm forks without mounting bosses, so had no choice but to choose those ones. I’ll remove the bolts and figure a way to block the holes.

Thanks! Going with a much lighter gray, as I have a silver crankset. No way am I having a dark frame with a silver crankset!

This was my invoice. Same cost as yours @gray

@daffy, seems yours was without COVID tax!

I too have to buy a group set. Well, everything except bars and wheels. Interesting to hear about the cracking posts,

@gray

Yes, custom paint, but no graphics. Spare mech hangers, axles, headset. And the slow boat for delivery. $700.

Email them. Wing replies straight away and is very helpful. He breaks down the costs for you. Just asked what the lead time is. Fingers crossed!

I’m just about to pay for my CFR696 frame. Did you guys use PayPal or via Alibaba?
Hopefully it won’t take tooo long to arrive!

Original battery had vented. There was the distinctive fruity smell. Probably due to corrosion as there were signs of water ingress. I fitted a battery I had removed as I am converting my rear light to run off my dynamo and a supercap.
Now the lezyne has been resurrected!

Happy to help! I’ll post up pics of the procedure when it arrives for it’s reconstructive surgery.

The battery is only dangerous if you puncture the actual cell or have a continuous short. I have built up dozens of Lipo and Li Ion battery packs with no issues.
There is plenty of space to work before you encroach on the actual battery.
If you are confident enough to do it, scrape away a little of the plastic where I put the orange dot. Scratch the conductor underneath, as this will make it easier to solder to.
With a hot soldering iron, tin that area, let it cool. Tin the end that broke off. Now you should have two fresh shiny soldered parts, that can be soldered together quickly.

You should scratch the other two ends (red) ends too so they are easier to tin and then solder together. Tinning is adding solder to an area in preparation to actually joining.

Or you can send it to me and I’ll fix it for you. Don’t waste that great light!

* I charge my watch from the brick as it won’t run and charge at the same time

Is it a Garmin? You might already know this, but you can enable Media Transfer (or whatever isn’t enabled) and it lets you charge and record at the same time. if it’s not a Garmin, sorry, cant help!

Other than that, I do exactly as you say.

Yes, you just need a DPDT switch from the dynamo to switch the light and the USB.
Make sure your switch can cope with 100v. I have measured nearly 100v on a dynamo with no load!

Buy three? 60 quid all in? Just another option.

Certainly a much cheaper option. I like a lot of light, so mainly have the dynamo for light. If I wasn’t riding much at night, powerbanks all the way.