That’s something which recently occurred to me – when I road ride without the silicone case in the rain the altimeter craps out. It doesn’t happen when mountainbiking.
D’oh!

If there is spare rocks/cash they should fill the ruts on the Roman Road.
Because they are so deep in water all users are by-passing the main track and damaging the surface each side of it.

Regarding unsympathetic dressings: Walkers have commented to me that Edale Road (Coldwell up to the back of Kinder) is hard work to walk on since spud sized stones were scattered.

I’ve got one, it’s added protection and doesn’t unduly affect sensation in this case.
And as soon as they became available, after loosing an 800, I bought a Sram mount so the device fits directly over the stem where it’s least likely to get knocked off during an off.

A fine choice Sir!

Thanks for the link Pook. I’ve joined the FB page.

My wheel bearing failure was discovered during the PF30 bearing replacement.
I’d already got the message these are pretty poor so for vthe sake of 9 quids worth of bearings from my local stockist I decided to replace them myself despite the young age of the bike.
This was to make sure it was serviceable and also be a learning process for me as I assumed it was going to be a regular job (zooms back in time >20 years to loose caged balls & cups bottom brackets).
BB taken care of I then noticed play in the rear wheel.
I was going to fix this myself too.
Off with the freehub and all was spotless within but I would need another allen key and possibly some other kit.
That’s the point reality struck and I wondered why I should be doing this to a £2500 bike with a coupla hundred miles on it – I certainly wouldn’t entertain it with a washing machine or owt else.
As said – the bike shop refused to do it under warranty as the bike’s been hammered.

it’s funny but some customers come back into the shop with the same wheels needing new bearings with alarming regularity and yet other guys come in who ride many more miles in harder conditions and never need bearings. The guys who do need them swear they don’t jet wash em, put em away wet etc, etc. Obviously some one is fibbing…

Maybe…but in my case my previous Stumpy, bought from the same shop, ridden on the same trails, washed in the same manner, was still on its original wheel bearings after 2 years when it got replaced. And they are fine (I still possess the bike). Likewise my previous bikes to that went for longer on the same bearings.

You can remove the bearings, carefully pick out the seals to not damage them. Flush out as much as poss with a degreaser – even white spirit will do. Thoroughly dry (blow out with air-line if you have one) re-pack with grease, re-fit seals & off you go.

You don’t need to travel to buy – there’s nothing special about them so you can internet purchase.

No it’s not normal & it **** me off that it should be considered so. If you’re not jet washing the bearing directly and it fails after 16 miles of trail centre use then it’s not fit for purpose and is covered by the sales of goods act.

I had ths issue with my Stumpy 29er rear wheel – albeit after a few more miles but only about 6 monhs old.

The LBS refused to fix it under warranty on the basis the ‘bike’s beeen hammered’ !!!
It’s a mountainbike FFS! I’m not heavy, not rad & am old.

I contacted Specialized directly and the matter was swiftly resolved to my satisfaction.

The upshot is I’d always consider Spesh when buying a new bike but never buy as much as a spoke nipple from the LBS.

Don’t be fobbed off!

Gutted!
http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/outdoor-features/rushup-edge—the-bigger-picture/13539.html

I didn’t know when I made this vid last June that after over 20 years of riding Rushup it’s end up that way.

The down tube wall may be thin but very little clamping force is used & apart from that it is a very strong area. Has to be otherwise you’d tear the frame apart pedalling.

TBH if i was going to go again, i would consider a rear mounted rack i think to keep the bikes out the wind (slows the car down a surprising amount),

A friend has a Thule tow bar mounted rack for his SUV as the roof’s so bloody high.
It’s a lovely bit of kit, obviously easier to load bikes on. Minor drawback of increased vehicle length & remembering it’s there when reversing but it still impacts on fuel economy. Probably because it messes up the air-flow at the back of the vehicle.

For the additional cost get aero or whisper bars much quieter and you’ll not regret it.

Also agree. After 30 years of square (oh, alright, rectangular) bars i treated myself to Thule Aeros. So much quieter & minimal impact on fuel economy (without a bike atop).

Another vote for 591.

Oh yeah – wearing my MW’s this week for commuting in the rain. Luverly dry feet.

I wear over shoes for road biking in the winter but long ago gave up with them for off-roading.
Get proper mtb boots like Shimano MW’s (insert brand of choice) and the job’s done properly.

Do the blokes still have mullets in NZ?

That’s a 29er but also available for kiddy wheels: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/zefal-no-mud-26-front-or-rear-clip-on-mudguard/

I don’t care what people wear when on nice road bikes. So long as they don’t overtake me – then they have to look the bizz.
Some old geezer with trouser clips & a flat cap once overtook me on a flat bar, chain guard, Sturmey Archer 3 sp jobbie – looked like he was on his way home from the allotment – were the Samaritans ever busy that night!

I’d sooner climb from Edale too, a nicer view. But Winnats is one of them things you have to do once.

Never mind – at least you know he’s not a proper roadie from way off so no last moment decision whether or not to acknowledge him.

Assuming you want to climb Winnats:
Hope – Castleton – Winnats – Chapel – Glossop – Woodhead(B6105) – Holmfirth (via Holme Moss) – Langsett (via A616) – RT on Mortimer Road – RT onto A57 – left A6013 – Bamford – Rt on A6187 back to Hope.
IIRC about 55 miles & 6200ft of climbing.
It does (obviously) miss out Snake but do Holme Moss albeit in the reverse direction of the TdF but you will do Ewden Beck in the same direction.
If you do it (Ewden Beck)imagine what it’ll be like for the peloton!
I can PM you the GPX if it helps.

Also watch out for Wiggle Tour of the Peak: http://www.kilotogo.com/index.php?option=event_detail&event_id=76

Half considered roadie riding there tomoz but decided to initiate my wagon-wheeler on Cut Gate.
Whatever – it should be a grand day!

Having had friends, family & aquaintances die of horrible natural causes, sometimes long before the age I’m at, I’m not about to stop doing what I love to sit on a sofa. And yes, I’ve been knocked off (a bit of an understatement for being launched) & had plenty of sphincter clenching moments.

On a standard shock pump the idea is that during removal the shock valve closes before the pump/valve seal is broken. The air you then hear escaping is that from the tube as the seal is broken.
Maybe on the Marz fork the valves release pin is longer meaning the pump/valve seal is broken before the valve seats allowing shock air to escape.
Something like the Topeak DX might solve this.
Bugger! This is the internet – it definately will solve it regardless of any lack of proof!

I have a Topeak too. It seems to work.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/topeak-pocket-shock-dxg-pump/rp-prod7355

I cycle ‘cos I love it. Any health benefits are a by-product.
I ‘do’ Strava.
It’s an added point of interest to me. Others don’t like it & I’m not bothered except for those who claim it takes the soul out of cycling. It might detract from their enjoyment, as we’re all different, but they shouldn’t assume it’s detracting from others enjoyment.
Imagine if when you mentioned you like Marmite on toast some bore started banging on about how it detracts from buttered toast 😀

That’s all right. Hopefully by next year my 29er will be worn out from extensive grin inducing riding on the Dark Peak rock strewn pack animal routes.
Then I can buy a new bike on the basis of what looks like it’s potential fun quotient will be.
Wheel size will, of course, be important as I might have to buy some spare tubes. There again it might come tubeless.

Stumpy Evo 29er at South Head, Dark Peak.
No, it’s the picture that’s wonky.

And Whinston Lee Tor April 27th:

I think M540’s give the best combination of quality, weight & price: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-m540-clipless-spd-mtb-pedals/rp-prod3760

Every time I ride Cannock I fall off due to pebbles, every time I visit the Peak I wash out on the scree & only last week I fell off due to an uneven surface on the tow path.
It’s about time the bloody lot were tarmacced!

It’s more about patience than great skill. The skill will develop from the patience and you’ll get the satisfaction and also the sense of being self-sufficient.
I learned from Sheldons site (dunno if the info’s still there).

As said it’s not the steepness so much as the environment.
I go faster down local roads but they’re wider, straighter with better sight lines, little other traffic & no peds.
If you keep your speed down it won’t be particularly dangerous.

I got Formula C1’s with my new bike. First ride and they seriously needed bleeding (gobsmacked really – imagine the same scenario with a car?).
The LBS did it but a few weeks later they got a big soft again. Not as bad as before but not sharp.
I figured I’d buy a bleed kit and did it myself this weekend. What a faff compared to my old Hope Minis. Not surprised if they weren’t done 100% last time.
Hopefully they’re sorted but if fundamentally crap will either get Shimanos or push the boat out & get Hopes depending on other user opinions.

Got to say the Elixers on my old bike are pin sharp – whether that’s due to bigger rotors on smaller wheels I don’t know.

Winnats is arse puckering enough with working brakes if you’re going for it.
Just slowing a tad for errant motors, sheep & walkers makes you realise that there’s no such thing as an emergency stop.

Awful news.

Phew! Vindicated my decision to give the Peak a miss today.

They have always been rubbish IMHO.
Moved to cartridge to get away from them.
Some people like them. Suppose if you remember in time and don’t mind mucking about with manky grease then they’ll last.
I used to be a mechanic – the last thing I wanted to do in my spare time is muck about with dirty machinery – I want to ride the ruddy bike!

Which reminds me – I’ve got to bleed that expletive Formuala rear brake!

Yeah – I run a 22×36 on my 26 and have just fitted a Hope 40T to my 29er so with it also having a 22 front the ratio will be about the same.
These are bail-out ratios but I’m old.
Wouldn’t even consider those ratios for trail centres.

Mind you I’ve seen people pushing single ring jobbies in Cannock.
I struggle with that one. If you’re fit enough to run a single ring for your choice of riding then great. If not take advantage of technology.
People died to give us double clangers and triples.
Why die of a heart attack in the pursuit of fashion? 😯

If you drop into Coldwell you can then climb out toward Kinder.
You have two options on the climb: Either stay on the main track, keep on climbing & then descend Jacobs Ladder.
If it doesn’t make you smile you’re dead.
There again the smile could be the effect of rigor.

Or you can take a bridleway on the left (the sign’s been missing for some time, dunno if it’s replaced yet) which will take you to a descent to Kinder Ressie.
At the ressie you can either take the road back to Hayfield or take another biatch climb to the shooting cabin on Middle Moor (On a clear day you can see this from Mt Famine). From there it’s downhill bridleway to Hayfield. This can be popular with walkers in fair weather.

Anyway, back to your original post: Yes, climbing in the Peak is different to trail centres. Their climbs are groomed to be possible by the average.
Much as I enjoy trail centres give me the Peak any day. When I get back there after a few trail centre sessions it makes me realise how tame most are.
(wanted to do Cut Gate today but figured it might still be messy and would be windy)

Legoman writ:

Ok, sounds like it might be a bit of a disappointment , but I’m here now (visiting family nearby) and the bike’s in the car is might as well give it a go.

Report back with your opinion please.

But 29ers look **** stoopid

True.
Until you get used to them and then those kiddy wheels look stoopid. 🙂