apologies for my poor memory…you are of course correct

old posts

Ha! I’d forgotten about that thread. I got a bit excited about it back then didn’t I – must’ve been off my meds :lol:

for the cost of XT over SLX I’d pay it just to get decent jockey wheels and a better clutch

Just like to point out that the clutch is exactly the same in XT SLX Saint Zee and Deore. Only XTR gets a slightly different design of clutch.

I’ve got this ‘Emergency’ app on my phone which will send a text/email of my location with a pre-formatted message along the lines of “xxxx is at yyyyy location and needs help” to pre-programmed numbers/emails. It also has handy first aid instructions, and stores info like allergies and medical insurance numbers. Haven’t had to use it yet thankfully, and had actually forgotten it was there until this thread came up.

Unfortunately so many of these have been breaking that the part seems to be permanently out of stock! I ordered five of them a month or so back when Bike-Components.de had stock, and three went into my three Shadow + mechs and two kept as spares.

I bought a pair of those Havens on special at CRC because I tried everything else to stop my hands going numb but nothing worked – but the Havens did!

However, if you don’t get numb hands then I don’t think you’ll notice any difference.

That’s a known issue, and if within warranty period you should have no problem getting a replacement – CRC sent me a whole new rear mech :D

If out of warranty or you can’t be bothered then the bit you want is called the cam unit and the part number is Y5Y198120:-

You can order them through your LBS, or I’ve bought them online from both these places before, although they’re showing out of stock at the moment Bike-Components.de[/url] or Bicikli.de

The good news is that Shimano have redesigned the bracket to be stronger, so the replacement mech/part shouldn’t break again.

June/July is perfect timing for the top end really, between Darwin, Lichfield and Kakadu there’s plenty for a mini road trip.

Now there’s an excellent suggestion! Fly into Darwin and pick up a 4WD camper and spend four weeks exploring the top end. I would just add a multi-day canoeing/camping trip down the Katherine Gorge to ebygomm’s itinerary and I think you’ve got an adventure that’s and as far away from the sun/sand/sex backpacker trips of your youth as you can get :lol:

Australia – traveling around it

This is the point at which I bring out my usual Australia thread graphic….

Don’t underestimate the size of Australia or the distances involved! :D

Part of the reason we like the idea of doing it in the summer is that we had a wonderful 2 weeks in the alps a couple of summers ago, this involved lots of walking, lots of wine overlooking the mountains and was very well received by a previously reluctant wife. Our thought was to try and do the same this year but add in the option of a few hours of skiing as well. I’m not expecting lots of runs or good quality snow, just enough to learn on.

Maybe I need to look into the Southern Hemisphere in more detail.

You do realise that the reason you can ski in New Zealand in the European summer is because it’s the middle of their winter? There won’t be much walking and sipping of wine to be done as it’ll be bleedin’ freezing :D

Thanks bearGrease – interesting read.

The salesman was explaining to me today that the Tiguan had an “anti-creep feature”. This may be what jimw is experiencing??

The VW website describes it like this…

Auto Hold is an extension of our electronic parking brake system. It stops your car from accidentally rolling backwards when you’re stationary, or setting off on a hill. When you brake your car to a stop, Auto Hold keeps the braking pressure you last applied. You can take your foot off the brake pedal and all four wheel brakes will stay on. If the ABS wheel speed sensors detect any rolling, the braking force is automatically increased until your car comes to a standstill again. This may be the case if, for example, you brake gently to a stop on a hill. As soon as you press the accelerator again and, in the case of manual gearboxes, release the clutch, Auto Hold reduces the braking pressure again.

Ok thanks for explaining that. I can see I’ve got to get used to a lot of new technology/buzzwords if I get this car.

Apparently the car comes with DSG, 4Motion, start/stop system, coasting function, driver fatigue detection system, brake energy recuperation, extended electronic differential lock, electronic stabilisation function, and anti-slip regulation :lol: but that doesn’t really mean an awful lot to me right now :cry:

I’m beginning to feel a bit like this guy…

In my experience, DSG gearboxes suit petrol engines much better than diesels. Have you driven one? Tried low speed manoevering with one?

Ok thanks, good to know!

Have test driven one, seemed very lively compared to the (more powerful but heavier) Hyundai Santa Fe I test drove the same day, but you can’t tell much in a half hour test drive. What characteristics should I be looking for in low speed manoeuvring?

If you intend to sell at the end of the warranty period, go for it. if you intend to keep beyond the warranty period, just hope yours is one that lasts the distance. I know of people with 150000 milesr who have had no issues, but also a number of people who have had big (like huge) bills after 60000 miles or less.

Over here in Oz the Tiguan comes with 3 year unlimited kms warranty. As it’s a second car I’d expect to put about 45,000kms on it in that time. Expensive repairs after the warranty period is one of the things I’m worried about. Considered an additional two year extended warranty but that came out at 1,500 quid, which I thought was a bit expensive ?!? But if these engines/transmissions are known for expensive repairs down the line I may reconsider…

What about a Forester – easier to get in Oz, or a Toyota Rav4

Same issue with the tow capacity. The Tiguan at 2,200kg seems to punch (tow) above its weight in the small SUV category.

On the size issue, I’ve read on the internet rumour mill that the Tiguan replacement will be announced at the end of this year, available next, and will be a seven seater. However, as we’re only a family of three, and seem to have done Ok in a Corrola for the last eight years, I’m hoping the existing Tiguan will be big enough for us.

Hmmm – DPF, had to Google that one! Seems DPFs aren’t a requirement in Australia, but still many diesels have them. Will have to ask the dealer if the Tiguan is one of them. Still, hopefully it’ll get enough freeway runs to clean it out.

The tube will have a wider internal diameter than the cup so there’s an “edge” for the tool to press against.

this, and there are 3 notches in the rear face of the bearing that you can use as a guide for your drift (I don’t know if that’s what they’re there for)

Actually no – its the other way around, the cup is a larger diameter than the tube. The key is that there is a gap between the bearing and tube which allows the sprung tool to expand and grip the rear of the cup.

The bearing is 24mm diameter, the tube 26mm, and the cup 31mm. The difference of a few mm between the bearing & tube is not enough to get a decent grip, and by bashing on the bearing anyway, you’re likely to knock it out and leave the outer cup in place (this is why so many people destroy the bearing trying to get it out!) The proper tool will pass through the bearing and expand into the 5mm or so gap between the bearing and tube, and allow you to push on the back of the cup.

If you don’t have the tool and use a screwdriver instead, you insert the screwdriver at an angle to get it into this gap.

and there are 3 notches in the rear face of the bearing that you can use as a guide for your drift (I don’t know if that’s what they’re there for

Not on any Shimano ones I’ve used (BB51, BB71, BB91, BB94)??

The business end of the tool compresses to pass through the bearing and then springs out just behind the cup, where there’s a gap of larger diameter before the tube starts. Bit difficult to describe in words, but more obvious when you look at it and the tool…

Get a diesel

Ok now we’ve cleared that up :D back to the original question – any known issues with this model – particularly that 130TDI engine or the DSG transmission? I’m just a bit suspicious as the extended warranty companies put this model in a very expensive category compared to similar vehicles – presumably because they’ve worked out there’s a high likelihood of claims?!? Thanks.

Now you add Australia (not Perth, Scotland) it takes a completely different stance.

Local Aus does not compare to local UK.

Yes sorry, should maybe have mentioned that upfront :oops:

For round here the Tiguan is considered a ‘small’ car, and most people laugh when I tell them we’re considering towing with it – the dealer didn’t even know the tow capacity or how much the tow kit cost – said nobody had ever asked him that before 8O

But I’m still in that European mode that doesn’t believe you need a V8 Landcruiser just to go to the shops, so the diesel Tiguan seems like a good compromise between economy and grunt.

Seriously, we’re not saying this for nothing, town driving is the ENTIRE reason modern diesels have a bad rep for reliability. I seriously suggest you go out and do some research on this before you buy something that is completely unsuitable for your needs (unless of course it will get regular blasts up and down the motorway).

I do get the point, and perhaps my initial statement about trundling around the burbs was a bit misleading. Where I now live (Western Australia) even the burbs are pretty spread out and crawling along bumper to bumper in traffic like I did in London is practically unknown :D . Even the school run involves a burst along the freeway, and my ‘local’ MTB trails are an hours drive at freeway speeds, so it’d do that a couple of times a week too! And when we hit the road for camping trips, our favourite spot is 1,300kms away which takes us two full days of driving, so the diesel economy would come into its own then as well.

Just checked the towing capacity of the Yeti and its 1700kg, whereas the Tiguan is 2200 and we really need something in the 2000kg plus range. So looks like the Yeti is out :(

Thanks for all the suggestions. To answer a few…

Ok, see the point about leather. I was thinking of it as a luxury item, but I see it could be a good ‘utility’ option :D . Still, a very pricey upgrade so I’ll need to seriously think about it – maybe a set of seat covers is the answer :lol: .

Both me & the wife like the higher driving position of the SUV versus an estate.

Accept the point about diesel not being much of an advantage around town, but I think we’d go diesel for the greater towing capacity and torque, as we’re pretty close to the towing limit already.

Surprised no one has mentioned that the Tiguan has been around a long time, and replacement due out next year, therefore affecting resale value?

And what about the DSG transmission – how reliable is that – I’ve read some bad things about it but maybe that’s all in the past now? We’d expect to keep this car for about 10 years, so would I be looking at some expensive repairs towards the end of that timeframe?

Hate to throw a curve ball in there but have you looked at the skoda yeti?

Yep, its on the shortlist, but haven’t had a test drive yet so concentrating on the Tiguan at the moment. Again, why the petrol? Surprised you both would suggest this as I thought it was diesel all the way these days for economy – no?

I think the answer will be – “buy the petrol version”

Why’s that – cheaper initial cost? I was thinking diesel for the fuel economy, and torque when I do need tow the caravan, even though that is only twice a year. Am I wrong?

no leather = no way

Seems quite an expensive upgrade, and I thought the kids/dogs would trash it quite quickly – whaddya rekon?

I use Gripshift on my commuter, but 10sp XTR shifters (M980) are the lightest action triggers I’ve experienced, noticeably more so than even the XT, as they have four sets of ball bearing races versus the two in XT, and nylon bushings in SLX and below. In fact I prefer XT for MTB duties, as I find the XTR so light that I tend to overshift. They come with SP41 outers and Teflon coated inners, and can be had for about the cost of XT at the moment if you shop around as the new XTR 11sp has made them obsolete. Also, use a conventional mech rather than a clutch one, as the clutch does add tension to the shift to larger sprockets.

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I bought the Park tools BBT-90.3 set for about forty quid, which comes with the removal tool and a pair of cup presses for fitting. Need to add a headset press to tighten the cups, or like I did get some threaded rod and nuts & washers from the hardware store for a couple of quid…

You may be lucky if the cups just pop out, but mine have always been a tight fit and knocking them out destroys them, even though I install them with grease and use the proper removal tool.

Also be careful just using washers to press the cups in rather than the proper cup presses, as the inner bearing race is slightly raised, so all the force will go on the bearings. The proper Park tools have a raised lip which presses on the cup surround instead…

@ndthornton, are they still doing that? I know I had that problem with my 2011 floats but Fox fixed that by adding another wiper seal to the air piston.

Would this work?

Steerer extender twelve quid from Wiggle…

Yep, Fox service guide…

If its any consolation the Giant Maestro bearing tool set is 80 quid, so those Santa Cruz ones are decent value.

Nope, it usual for a bit of the float fluid to blow out the air valve, especially if you’ve had them upside down.

Ah! but the beautiful Maltese girls make up for the desolate scenery :wink:

Don’t honestly care if it’s placebo effect, the 10mm difference in width (every other geometry on the new bars identical) or anything else – so long as the numbness has gone away I’m happy :lol:

I use a standard cardboard bike box. I got a massive one from LBS used for a comfort bike so I could fit my XL full suspension in without taking the rear wheel off. I also cut up another box and lined the inside so it was double thickness.

Had two trips with it so far and although the corners are a bit the worse for wear, the bike has been unblemished. It is a bit of a faff packing though, and it’s much bigger to manoeuvre around on the trolley trip between international and domestic terminals, and only fits in the car with the back seats down, so I’m considering getting an Evoc when the trusty cardboard box finally dies. There’s a good CRC own brand copy now, a new ‘professional’ Evoc, and a new Thule one to choose from.

You’ve got an infection due to training, it’s expected. Your breathing harder and longer and with more vigour, don’t back off riding but pace down.

I find regular cycling gets those cilia working overtime and flushes out the sinuses and lungs nicely, and I get fewer respiratory infections as a result.

Could be just wishful thinking on my part, but I didn’t get a single cold in a year of commuting thru sun and rain, but as soon as I stopped for two weeks I went down with a humdinger!

Hi Robcolliver – yep already use Ergon Grips but rubber not cork. GP1 on trail bike, GS1 on XC bike, and GP2 on commuter. Find they reduced the numbness but didn’t eliminate it. Combination of Ergon grips and carbon bars hopefully has now done the trick!

Had my first ride today on my new carbon bars, and thought I’d report back on the experience for any others thinking of getting them for numbness reduction.

Picked one of my longer, faster, hand numbing trails to test them on – a 43km rail trail with mixture of hardpack and old railway ballast which is always guaranteed to bring on hand numbness within about 20 mins.

The new carbon bars didn’t feel any different at all to the old ally ones, so I was beginning to wonder if I’d wasted my money :( but then as the ride wore on into it’s second hour I realised I hadn’t experienced any numbness – result :D

For the doubters – everything else was the same – tyre pressures, suspension settings, grips, sweep/angle/rise of bars, although the new ones are 710mm versus 690mm. I didn’t feel any extra flex, but they must have been absorbing the worst of the vibrations for my hands not to go numb.

So, I’m chuffed, and wish I’d made the switch years ago :D

I don’t have it on my brake levers but do on the stem/bar interface – stops creaks too !

Yes it’s definitely going on the stem interface, and I fact I already used it there with the aluminium bars, and on the seatpost. Will happily use it anywhere components aren’t meant to move, but it’s just these brake lever clamps that are vexing me, cos they are supposed to stay still but then again they aren’t :?: