Got the Rogue – works well if you don’t carry much stuff, but it does hit me in the back of the head every time I do a log-over due to the lack of a waist strap!

Have you thought about the new ‘LS’ models (Octane LS, Charge LS) that have side pockets – I’m thinking to go for one of those next as I like the convenience of being able to access camera, phone, munchies on the go – and the waist strap!

I’ve got this TACX one, 5-25nm, comes with 1/4″ bits and a couple of free sachets of carbon assembly compound (very good for creaky seatposts). Euro65.

Remember someone suggesting when this topic came up before, to use the little rubber donut thingies that stop gear cables flapping. Haven’t tried it meself yet, but sounds like a good idea!

If its not an alignment problem as above, then you may have squeezed the pistons out a bit far at some time in your build process (squeezing levers while wheel/rotor is out is the usual mistake, or putting new/thicker pads in without re-setting the pistons!). If this is the case, the pads will be too close to the rotors and no amount of alignment will be able to stop them rubbing! They won’t return to normal by themselves, you’ll need to take pads out and push pistons back in manually with a plastic tyre lever or similar. Then remount it all and pump the brakes a few times to get them to the right spacing for riding. If the pistons won’t go back in then the system is overfilled (did you do a bleed of the brakes as part of your build?), and you’ll need to remove the reservoir cover before pushing pistons in, and let the excess oil spill out.

+1 for Halo headband[/url]. I regularly ride in 30deg+ conditions and this keeps the sweat out of my eyes/off the sunnies for a good hour before it needs to be wrung out!

When I bruised/cracked mine a couple of months back I was off riding for ten days, but was able to do some gentle trails after that. Paracetemol is good to reduce the pain in the first few days, but sneezing is a nightmare as you’ve probably already found out, and I didn’t have a good night’s sleep for a couple of weeks cos woke up every time I turned over. Two months on I still have a lump where they were injured, and occasionally get a twinge, but otherwise back to full MTB fitness!

+1 for shifting weight forwards over the front wheel in corners to give traction. Single most important thing I did to improve my technique. It’s not intuitive, and in fact you tend to lean back if you’re nervous of a corner, but force yourself to do it. I also lowered bars a bit to help make me lean forwards.

Are they superstar technical drawings?

😆 Know where you’re going with that one (I think), so here’s the definitive Shimano pad guide but unfortunately its a bit out of date and doesn’t show the new M985/785/666 pads.

Perth, I do believe the OP is also asking what cheapest pads he can fit as he doesn’t want the finned pads, unless I’ve misread it?

Praps, but my reading of it is that he has M785 brakes on one bike, and wants to replace the brakes on another bike with a cheaper set like SLX M666, but wants to know if they take the same pads so he only has to stock one setof spares?!? It’s in the title really – “XT – M785 Pads – What else will they fit?”, not “What other pads will fit my M785”

Guess we won’t know who’s right unless he pops back to put us straight 😀

Here you go, justworked out how to link to an image 🙂

I’m pretty certain they fit deore brakes too. They also fit the last 2 models of xt brakes.

Sorry, completely wrong. The previous version of XT (M775) has the pad retaining pin on one side and a hook on the other, whereas M785 just has a pad retaining pin in the middle. Deore pads are narrower and deeper than the M785, and depending on model also have the pad retaining pin on the side. Neither are interchangeable with the new M985/785/666 pads.

Superstar have quite a good pad identifier chart here where the XT-M785 are shape S5, XT-M775 are S1, and Deore S2 or S3 depending on the model.

Answer the question guys 🙄 OP is asking what other brakes M785 pads will fit, not what cheapo pads to buy.

The answer is XTR M985, XT M785, SLX M666, and Alfine S700 brakes all use the same pads.

Having a Chinese wife, and lived over there for nearly 20 years, I’d have to say that the Chinese have a weird (to us) combination of very strong bonds within their immediate family, but an utter disregard for strangers. Could be the best way to cope in a country of over a billion people, but I also think it has something to do with the casual attitude to the suffering of others bred by centuries of hardship (famines, wars, political upheaval), and an extreme sense of ‘minding ones own business’ beaten into them by half a century of communism’s excesses.

And before we get all superior about it, it’s worth remembering that under similar circumstances – ie. the middle ages – western european society had an equally casual attitude to the suffering and death of others, and that includes children. I remember reading somewhere that parents wouldn’t even name their children until they were six or seven years old, because there was such a high chance of them dying before then that it wasn’t worth getting attached to them!

You’re welcome!

Here’s the nut/olive/insert kit at CRC – linky

And here’s just olive/insert – linky

Thinkin bout it, you will already have the shroud nuts, so just get a new olive and insert for each end. If you buy somewhere else, just make sure you get the gold coloured one that’s for BH59 hose, the silver one here is for BH90.

Here’s the Shimano oil , and when it says bleed kit, all that means is you get a small bottle of oil, a tiny length of plastic tube to attach to the bleed nipple, and a placky bag to drain it into. You’ll have to buy the BH59 hose, yellow bleed block and hose clamp elsewhere, as it doesn’t look like CRC sell those…

If you have M775 the yellow funnel is no use, thats for the ‘new’ brakes like M785. What you need is appropriate hose with the right fittings. For M775 the hose is BH59 (or equivalent), and the fittings are the longer shroud nut, olive and gold barbed hose insert at both ends. Then you’ll need some Shimano (or equivalent) mineral oil, a yellow bleed block is useful, as are the two plastic ‘hose grips’ to hold the hose while you insert the barbed hose insert. All other bits are optional, but choose what you like to make the process of bleeding easier (or less messy!) like syringe, plastic pipe, bottles etc. CRC and others sell all these bits & pieces.

Note: Avoid the BH90 hose, banjo fittings, shorter shroud nuts, silver barbed inserts, and yellow funnels, these are for the new generation of brakes like M785, and are not compatible with your M775s.

The following shows how to shorten a hose that’s already full of oil. You can adapt as appropriate for a new hose… instructions

Ok man, I’ll just use a tyre lever and stop worrying about leaving a bit of air in the reservoir

Don’t let me put you off trying it – sounds like others have had success squeezing a small bead of oil out, and that’d certainly make it less likely any air will enter into the system – I just know I’m so hamfisted I’d be squirting it everywhere 😀

How do you format quoting what other people say

I highlight then copy what I want to quote, then click on the “quote” tab once, paste the text, then click on the “quote” tab again…

How about using the rotors as a stop?

Not a good idea! Without the pads in (and you do want to remove the pads before you do any of this – saves them getting contaminated by oil!) by the time the pistons get far enough out to hit the rotor, you’ll have popped both the seals. Anyway, have you thought about how you’d push them back in again 😉

Also, with the hose(s) off the levers, is it worth it to push the pistons back in a tiny way before refitting, to coax the fluid back up to the connecting end, thus making the chances of air in the reservoir lower and reducing the need to bleed them again for a while

Sounds good in theory, but I have a feeling in practice you’ll end up pi$$ing brake fluid out the end of the hose 😆

Anyone know if it’s possible to bodge a bleed on the new-style Shimano XT brakes or is this funnel contraption a crucial part of the process?

The funnel is just supposed to make things easier, but a ‘normal’ bleed by removing the reservoir cover is still perfectly doable on the new brakes. Here’s the Shimano instructions for doing a bleed without the funnel – Bleed

Also, is Special Shimano Oil absolutely necessary or will generic brake oil work just as well?

Shimano brakes use mineral oil. Other makes like Avid, and car/motorbike brakes use Dot fluid. Don’t put Dot fluid in your shimano brakes, but other mineral oils should be Ok. Any LBS should have a gallon of the stuff around, and may be willing to sell you some if you bring your own container 🙂

Can anyone tell me, when you ‘pump the pistons out’ at the beginning of the hose swap process, can you just use the yellow caliper bleed block to ensure the pistons come out but not too much? Or will that not let them out enough?

The yellow bleed block doesn’t let the pistons come out at all. If you want them to come out a ‘bit’ but not so far that it breaks the seal and lets air in, use something about half the thickness of the yellow bleed block – I use a plastic tyre lever. Still, be careful, one piston could still come out all the way while the other doesn’t move at all, so keep an eye on them as you pump.

In case I’ve confused anyone, I should add that if you do the swapping lever process properly, like described in the links above, you shouldn’t need the funnel. That’s for use during a bleed, and the whole idea is to try and swap the hoses round without needing to do a bleed!

But, if you push the pistons too far out (like I did 😳 , and StefMcDef above) then that lets air in, and you do then need to do a proper bleed, and that’s where the yellow funnel comes into play on the newer models of brakes.

What is this yellow funnel tingy of which you speak, perthmtb? Don’t think I got one of them with the brakes. Is it part of a specific bleed kit?

On the older Shimano brakes – like M665, M775 when you did a bleed you had to remove the reservoir cover to let air out and top up the fluid. On the newer models – like M666, M785 there is a different (and simpler say Shimano) bleed process whereby you just unscrew a small port on the top of the reservoir and screw in a special yellow plastic funnel instead. See here for instructions on how to use it – bleed instructions

And no, it doesn’t come with the brakes, you have to buy it separately – its part number 10 in this – XT parts diagram

Here’s where I bought mine – Yellow funnel thingy

I don’t think there’s any such thing as a specific SRAM connecting pin like the Shimano ones, and I wouldn’t suggest re-inserting the pins you’ve already driven out. Use another powerlink – I have two powerlinks in one of my chains and it’s been fine so far…

Bit worried about that, air in the reservoir is still a problem, no? Wouldn’t that require a full bleed?

Nope, that’s the point of a bleed, to force the air out of the lines and caliper where it is a problem and into the reservoir. True, you don’t want to leave the air in there for too long as it may re-enter the system if you turn the bike upside down, so best to take the resevoir cover off, top up the fluid and replace the cover (or as you’ve got the new style brakes – use that yellow funnel thingy on the bleed port for the same result).

I get stereo wheeze from my Fox forks and Float R shock – and sometimes I join in too!

Could use a split pin instead of the pin & clip, like the SLX does. Or have I missed the point completely….?

Thanks Rampage. As you may have seen from my more recent threads, I eventually gave up on the mix n match approach, and have ordered a set of M666 also. Not cos I didn’t think it’d work, but cos the budgetary controller took pity on me and released a few more pennies!

I remember the last few rickshaw drivers in Hong Kong used to rake in a good living from tourists and the like, just from getting their photograph taken with them sitting in the back. Good thing as Hong Kong is rather hilly, and most of them being in their seventies at least probably wouldn’t have survived a real fare!

Ok, thanks all!

RT76 non Ice-tec rotors and G01A non-finned pads are now on order to go with my new SLX brakes…

I’ll be selling the finned pads that come with the brakes to someone who needs (or wants) them more than me!

do you really need any of it?

If we’re getting into the philosophical realm of whether we humans need so many material possessions to make us happy – then probably not.

But if we’re talking about the more earthly issue of whether I need better brakes to help me stop – then the answer is yes! 😆

Caption contest?

My attempt: “Which way did you say this friggin quick release opens…”

they look nice and they look different to what is offered by others but that doesn’t bother you

Right! And in fact my first thoughts were how difficult it would be to clean the gunk out of those little fins on the pads, so I’m obviously not fashion conscious enough 😆

I’m using a Camelbak podium bottle which flows well but i don’t like the fact that the valve is not removable for washing

pumper, can’t comment on whether the valve is supposed to be disassembled, but it can be! Here’s my method…

On the outside of the bottle lid first prise off the clear rubber cover over the valve with a dinner knife or similar under the edge. Then pop off the plastic ring which contains the silicone valve, using the same hi-tech tool inserted under it, and separate ring from valve.

Turn the lot over, and with the flat side of the knife blade placed on the small button shaped bit of plastic, force it past the four flanges holding it in place, and withdraw the vale core.

Viola, you’ve now have it in bits, and can use your cleaning solution of choice and an old tooth brush, and a couple of cotton buds to make it like new!

Really, I think Camelbak have missed a trick here, and should be selling a kit containing a dinner knife, toothbrush and cotton buds for about fifty quid 😉

bugcan, are you talking about the whole groupset, or brakes specifically? I know the 2013 SLX has new cranks, shifters, mechs etc, but from what I’ve read the brakes won’t change, as the M666 brakes are already of the same family as XTR/XT

Quote from BikeRadar…

“SLX received a brake upgrade last year so there are no major departures for 2013. There have been some cosmetic changes so that the stoppers match the rest of the group, the levers have shed a little weight, the brakes now come with three-layer Ice Technologies rotors as standard, and OEM pads (ie. those which come with complete bikes) are now the finned Ice Tech version, too – last year these were only supplied with aftermarket brakes. The levers are compatible with Shimano’s Ispec bar clamp system, too, if you’d prefer to integrate the brake and shift levers into a single clamp”

And in fact the M666 brakes already come with Ispec levers & finned pads, so I’m guessing there’s not going to be much difference at all!

Try this thread

All the SLX I’ve seen for sale recently already have the finned pads…

Another vote for Camelbak Podium. You wouldn’t have thought you could improve on a water bottle, but they have! Soft plastic that you can squeeze easily to get a real jet of liquid, doesn’t leak, doesn’t pong of plastic. Only gripe I have is that the silicone squeeze valve goes manky with sports drinks and is difficult to clean – but that’ll happen to any bottle in time!

Cages – I swear by the cheapo Brand-X ones from CRC. Five quid and I’ve never lost a bottle, and I do some rocky descents…

Thanks for the heads up slinkybike, but I’d already checked out TBSM. Their prices are pretty good, but at AU$246 for a pair of M666 levers & calipers, versus AU$210 for a complete set including rotors and adapters delivered, the Germans still have the edge! Also, TBSM only have the rear in stock at the moment, and I was afraid the special pricing wouldn’t apply to the front when available.

Warranty is the only advantage buying local still has, which is why I’m so paranoid about the issues the 2012 brakes seem to be having! But then I’m also reasoning that the big European online retailers have much greater throughput than here in Oz, so they’re more likely to be selling recently manufactured stock that’s had the problems rectified.

Anyway, deed is done, a set are on their way from Germany as we type, so I’ll find out if it was a wise decision or not to save a few bucks!

The XT have a ‘free stroke’ adjustment screw which the SLX doesn’t, but from what I’ve heard, it doesn’t do much anyway. The XT caliper has a screw in pad retaining pin, while the SLX has a split pin. Otherwise its just the colour of the finish, and of course those all important little letters that say “XT” 😀

In fact, I’d stick my neck out here and say the parts come from exactly the same pressing machine and are just finished differently, the clue being that the SLX has a little blanking plug where the XT free stroke screw goes, and the caliper on the SLX still has the thread machined into it to take a screw, even tho’ they’ve shoved a split pin in there instead. So, functionally and weight wise I’m guessing they’re identical!

Oh well – too late now anyway – pressed the button on my order this morning after another hair raising ride on my ‘yank the lever and wait to see if the brakes engage’ M445s.

Also noticed a lot of the usual places running out of stock of the M666, so was a good excuse to snap ’em up!

I’ll be back here in a couple of months to sing their praises or drag Shimano’s name thru the mud, depending on my experiences with them…

Hi aphex, Wiggle & CRC now do free postage to Oz for any order over $80, so there’s no need to pool orders or get people to bring ’em over anymore, but many thanks for the offer! Even the German sites only charge about $20 delivery to Oz versus $8 to the UK, so purchasing direct is no bother – its the potential to & fro on a warranty issue I’m more worried about.

@coatesy 🙁 Another problem to add to the list?

I think the Germans beat Merlin, even with their extra 15% discount at the moment

Correction: It’s Evans that have 15% off at the moment, Merlin is only 5%. 😳