On a slight tangent – we had my daughters two guinea pigs sterelised a while back. Vet just split them open down the middle, removed all their squidgy bits, and glued them back up.

My wife was handed two comatose guinea pigs with the advice – if the wound splits open again and bits start hanging out, just poke them back in with your finger and glue them back up with superglue! She couldn’t work out if the vet was just joking or not, but we now keep a tube of superglue handy for any accidents of animal or human nature…

PS: Methinks some have become too reliant on the crutch which is STW, if the first reaction to an accident befalling a toddler is to rush to the forum for advice…

@TerryWrist Yes, I have just got the internet. So far I this morning I have discovered Youtube, email, facebook and sarcasm.
Thanks for for the latter.
This afternoon i’ll be exploring Google earth and sending the missus outside to ‘look up’ whilst doing so.

Best comeback of the year so far, made my day 😆

On the theme of ‘why do bike brakes need so much faffing when cars run for thousands of miles without a problem’ I’ve always wondered why we’re told to service our forks every 30 hours – they’re just trickle down technology from motorbikes surely, and no biker I’ve asked services his forks anything like that often.

Take a gap year, gain some additional life experience.

This. I can’t believe it got to the second page before someone suggested it!

Doesn’t really matter if you spend it working or shagging your way around Asia, it’ll help you put things into perspective to get off the “educational conveyor belt” for a while, give you a maturity your peers won’t have, and can be a helluva lotta fun!

It seems a big deal to lose a year at this stage, but believe me its not ‘lost’, and will pay back in time. In fact, I’ve taken three “gap years” at various times in my life (the last one was re-named a mid-life crisis 🙂 ), when I’ve been in a bit of a rut and needed to step back and take stock of things, and have never regretted it!

I recently picked up a set of the MT65 wheels from bike-discount for 118 quid (plus shipping) which I thought was a real bargain as they have the proper UST rims if you ever feel like going tubeless…

MT-65

Me, I just love fiddling with those cup & cone bearings 😉

I don’t trust anyone who doesn’t look me in the eye when they’re talking to me, let alone not open them for the whole of the video. In fact, does that guy even have eyes? 😯

I have a 2011 Trance X.

It takes a PF92 BB.

As for FD, you’ll need a 34.9 clamp (or dual/unisize which includes 34.9) and it needs to be top swing, as the clamp of a ‘normal’ FD goes where the seat tube is starting to curve.

It’s a great bike – have fun with your build…

Yes, I bought a 29er about six months back, and was expecting to get blown away by it’s all-round awsomeness and have my 26 up for sale within a week. But instead, I found myself gradually drifting back to my faithful 26 for about 80% of my rides, and the 29er now only comes out occasionally.

I haven’t sold it though, as for certain types of conditions – races and fast flowy trails mostly – it is definitely better/faster than the 26. Its just that most of my riding is on twisty, tight, techy trails, where the 26 still seems to have an advantage.

So, nothing against 29ers, I just think there’s no such thing as a do-it-all bike, all bikes are good at some things, and not so good at others. So, ‘horses for courses’ is my new mantra, as it’s nice to have the choice of different steeds to suit the different kinds of riding I do 😀

Ok thanks, you’ve already been very helpful (as usual). Guess I’ll suck it and see – afterall, what could go wrong 😆

Thanks, had a look at those parts diagrams, but unfortunatley can’t really work out how it works from them 🙁 Maybe its one of those things that becomes obvious when you’ve got the part in your hand – but don’t really want to get that far to find I’m out of my depth 😕

So, any idea whether it would be easy to replace the damper oil without having to dis-assemble the cartridge. If its anything like an O/B I’d be happy to have a go, but i wouldn’t feel confident messing with a FIT cartridge, as that’s a bit beyond my mechanical capabilities…

Hi LoCo, no its not the open bath, I’m familiar with those, what’s got me stumped is the new damper Fox have on their 2013 model CTD Evolution series – its neither an open bath or a FIT, they call it an ‘open cartridge’ or O/C.

There’s no service instructions on their web site, just a rather confusing description of it here. and I can’t work out if changing the oil woudl be a simple task or not. Any advice appreciated…

Sorry ’bout the thread hijack, but I was hoping LoCo was lurking today. Cheeky I know, but any chance you can tell me how to change the oil in the new Fox CTD O/C dampers? Ta.

Yup, saw that one – in fact you can see my post is third in the thread where I ask him how to get the old oil out/put new oil in, but unfortunately he hasn’t replied yet, hence me trying here instead.

Anyone….?

For the pair, yeah? If so, amazing.

Yup, 65% off 😀

BTW where in Perth are you again. I’m sure I asked before but can’t remember.

Bibra Lake mate. Usually to be found riding at the KC on a weekend. Took the new SLX wheels for a spin round J’dale on Sunday, but I can’t honestly say I noticed any difference in the ride from the stock Giant ones, but it was mainly the pinchflat protection of tubeless I wanted.

Drop me a PM at the PMBC website[/url] if you’d like to take a look at the wheels before you buy, I lurk there under the name of Mamil.

As it happens, I took delivery of some MT65 SLX wheels this morning, and have just been fitting the rotors & tyres, hoping to give’m a spin tomorrow. There’s some good deals on the MT65 at the mo if you don’t mind riding last year’s model, because the new MT66/68 are just out.

In fact IMHO the MT65 are superior to the new model anyway, as they have the XT level full UST rim, whereas the new models are really only tubeless ready as they require rim strips and sealant, tho’ that only matters if you’re planning on going tubeless.

I bought mine here for AU$170 delivered, and it took exactly 2 weeks for them to come thru to me in Perth. I’ll be running them with Maxxis UST tyres on my Trance, and they’re replacing the stock Giant wheels that came with it.

Or if you’re willing to spend a bit more, then take a look at the XT wheels – either the ‘race’ M785 or the ‘trail’ M788 if you want something a bit tougher. I’ve got the M785 on my 29er, but there’s not much difference between them and the MT65 TBH – basically a slightly different hub, and of course they have those magic initials ‘XT’ on them 😉

As for spares, these wheels use the Shimano straight pull spokes, which aren’t easy (or cheap!) to get in Oz, but these guys have them (just ignore the fact they describe the MT65 as 29ers, they’re not, that’s the MT75).

Hope all that may be of some interest to you, have fun shopping 😀

Hey jfletch, lets nip this in the bud before it becomes one of those STW epics, and just put it down to the usual mis-interpretation of the typed word shall we?

I’m sure if we’d actually met in a bar apres ski we’d just have a good chuckle about it and a gluhwein… 😀

Cheers!

jfletch – it was a black, but sorry I didn’t have my clinometer with me – its a funny little story, thats all

Saying something like blah blah blah 45 degreee blah blah blah comes across as you going mwah, look at me, billy big balls, bow to my awesomeness.

If you don’t know how steep it is, just say “steep” rather than pull some ridculously large figure out of your arse.

Well if you’d seen me ski, you’d realise I’ve got absolutely nothing to brag about 😀

I really think you should take your pills and calm down a bit – your tone is getting rather offensive…

Used to be a few countries, OZ & NZ but don’t know about Canada, offered working holiday visas for a year or so to people in their twenties. This would be a good way to try it out before you commit everything.

Whether it’ll work for you or not really depends on…

1. the kind of person you are – how outgoing, flexible, willing to try new things.

2. what ties (family, friends, job) you’re leaving behind and how important they are to you, and…

3. what you’re expecting to get from it – hint: its just another country – you’re still the same person you were, its not going to radically change your life and suddenly make you rich, happy, and irresistable to the opposite sex – at least it didn’t for me 🙁

Not much has changed TBH. Proper UST for the least hassle, but heavy solution, and chuck some icky white goo in there if you want thorn protection.

Tubeless ready variants if you’re a weight weenie, but they have a thinner & porous sidewall, so you have to use goo to seal them, and even then its a bit more hit & miss that they’ll hold air.

I get those real cheap paintbrushes from the local hardware superstore – you know, the ones that come in a set of different sizes, and are useless for painting, but are excellent for cleaning all the nooks & crannies 😯

Don’t last long mind, but at that price its cheap enuff to replace them every few months…

No you didn’t, 45 degrees is steeper than any piste anywhere in the world [citation needed] and is seriously steep off piste teritory.

jfletch – it was a black, but sorry I didn’t have my clinometer with me – its a funny little story, thats all…

and…

nealglover – Member

Don’t see why not – I think it’s a rip off to buy a whole outfit for a weeks skiing, just to find the colour/fashion has changed the next year, and go thu it all again.

nobody is suggesting he should do that ?

It’s just warm and waterproof clothes FFS!

Which the Stealth certainly isn’t !

Mind you, one year I wore my best Henri-Lloyd yachtie jacket on a ski holiday, didn’t feel at all out of place on the pistes, until one day I fell on a 45 degree slope and took off down the mountain like I was on a sledge! Seems ‘real’ ski gear has a matt surface to slow you down in such circumstances whereas yachting oilies and presumably cycling waterproofs don’t!

I’ve got metal pins in my left shoulder due to being cleaned up by someone doing exactly that.

Also does that not completely contradict your earlier statement ?

nealglover – what posessed you to waste your time dissecting my post phrase by phrase I just don’t know, I’m really not worth it – honestly!

You guys need to lighten up a little – no really… its Chriiiiiistmaaaaaas! 😀

Don’t see why not – I think it’s a rip off to buy a whole outfit for a weeks skiing, just to find the colour/fashion has changed the next year, and go thu it all again. It’s just warm and waterproof clothes FFS!

Mind you, one year I wore my best Henri-Lloyd yachtie jacket on a ski holiday, didn’t feel at all out of place on the pistes, until one day I fell on a 45 degree slope and took off down the mountain like I was on a sledge! Seems ‘real’ ski gear has a matt surface to slow you down in such circumstances whereas yachting oilies and presumably cycling waterproofs don’t!

Oops! Got the wrong end of the stick there – thought you were just after “discs” ie rotors. Now realise you want the whole system 😳

Thanks perthmtb, I thought I needed the exact F-Mech as my current 2×9 front mech don’t work too good with a triple F-Mech.

Hmmm, let me clarify… If you’re using a 2×10 crank, and your frame requires E-type fitting, then yes, out of the eight different models of XT FD that Shimano now offer, you can only use the exact one I linked to earlier. But it doesn’t matter which combination of 2×10 chainrings you use with it – 24/38, 26/38, or 28/40, it will fit them all.

Have fun with your upgrade – my XT 2×10 drivetrain is the most precise and trouble free shifting I’ve experienced, and that’s coming from a die-hard 9 speed fan!

My recommendation – worth getting the Shadow plus XT RD (M786), its only a bit more expensive that the non-plus one (M781) but makes chain slap a thing of the past…

You haven’t said whether you need centrelock or 6-bolt, Avid or Shimano, but I picked up some of these a while ago, cheap and do the job – resin pads only tho’

Centrelock

6-bolt

Here’s the XT 24/38 cranks.

And here’s the E-type 2×10 FD to go with it.

It’s the same model FD for all the XT doubles, be they 24/38 26/38 or 28/40. Yes I know they say it’ll only handle a 12T difference between the chainwheels, but I think thats just because the 24/38 combo is a recent addition and they haven’t updated the specs yet. I’m using one with my 24/38 and it works great – no issues at all.

Once you’ve got the old bushing out, do yourself a favour and replace it with one of the new “five piece flanged bushings”. Don’t need a tool and Fox say last 10 times longer than the old DU ones…

I am talking Australia here, so accept it may well be different,

It is. Totally the opposite in the UK. The seller is responsive for the item being received in good condition. If it goes wrong in transit the seller makes a full refund and then claims on the insurance. I know. I’ve done it.

Fair enough – just another thing we do upside down over here then 😉

Seems strange, they have no contract with the person receiving the parcel, so don’t see why they would do that ?

Which companies are you using as I’ve never seen that before ?

I am talking Australia here, so accept it may well be different, but when I send things by Auspost and add their insurance, they stipulate that it’s the senders responsibility to claim on insurance if the thing never arrives, but once its in the hands of the receiver it’s their responsibility to claim. I think it may be something to do with the receiver being in a better position to provide details/photos of the state of the package…

Regarding the postage, not your problem.

Its his responsibility to get the bike to you safely, its a total con when buyers ask you to pay extra for insured postage as they have the contract for the safe delivery of the item

When someone asks if I’ll post an item I’m selling, I’ll ask them to cover the basic cost of postage – standard or express, its their choice – and then I’ll pay the extra for recorded delivery and insurance. It means I get a little less out of the sale, but think its worth it for the peace of mind of having proof the thing was received by the buyer, and can claim on insurance if it is damaged.

Even if it had been insured, the courier wouldn’t deal with you as you didn’t arrange the postage.

The services I’ve used specifically state that its the receiver’s responsibility to claim on insurance once its been delivered, but maybe this varies from company to company.

You can buy the green Shimano grease no probs http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=24446

You have genuinely just made my day! Purchase made!

Ok, so can someone tell me the difference between the “workshop grease” featured above, and the Shimano Dura-ace “special grease” the tech docs tell me to use in my hubs?

Glad to see all that money you’re earning in the mining boom out here is being put to good use 😀

Might have to change your name to one-happy-bogan tho’… (Australian in joke)

Crossride aren’t UST though, so if you ever want to go tubeless with them you’re back to all the problems of compressors, goo, rim strips, burping etc.

The benefit of a proper UST profile rim is threefold:-

1. Inside the rim has ‘shoulders’ that the tyre beads sit on and effectively makes an airtight seal even before they’re inflated. So then you can pump them up with a normal pump. This is what causes the most issues when you try and convert a normal rim to tubeless, the lack of this shoulder and the problems this causes getting the tyres to seat initially.

2. A proper UST rim is sealed on the inside – the spokes don’t penetrate the inner rim, so you don’t need rim strips and sealant to get an airtight seal.

3. UST rims have a different bead hook, which matches the different bead of a proper UST tyre, so that the tyres seal and ‘lock’ into the bead hook. In fact, even after deflating a UST tyre, you have to push the bead out with your fingers to get the tyres off, as they lock in so well!

You can see each of these features in this diagram

Normal rims like the Crossride don’t have these features, and therefore need to be ‘converted’ to tubeless with rim strips, sealant etc, but can still be prone to problems like not seating easily without a compressor, losing air, burping etc.

The MT66 has the shoulders and bead hook of a proper UST rim, but you still need to use rim tape and sealant to seal the spoke holes – but they are about teh cheapest way of getting a UST rim.

Full UST rims like the XT have all these features, but the downside is the extra metal in the rim, and extra rubber in the tyres, makes them heavier than a conversion, and yes they are more expensive. For me, this was an acceptable tradeoff, but YMMV.

Hi Smiff, noticed you resurrected my old thread!

I didn’t go for the MT66 in the end. I found out they’re kinda a halfway house between full UST (like the XT wheels) and conversions like stans. Even though they have a UST rim profile, the spokes still penetrate the rim and they come with rubber caps to seal the holes, rim tape and sealant.

I decided to spend a few more pennies and get the XT M785 instead, and I haven’t been disappointed – like I expected, and others said above, with ‘proper’ UST rims and tyres its a piece of p1ss to install and ride. Only downside I can see for a full UST setup over a conversion is that the conversion is lighter. But saving weight wasn’t why I went tubeless, and I love the no-hassle factor of the proper UST system. And no, I didn’t go with goo in the end either…

PS: If you’re worried about the strength of the MT66, might be worth waiting until the MT68 come out, as they are more of an AM wheel with a slightly wider rim (same as the difference between M785 and M788 wheels in the XT lineup).

And now I wonder who spends the time photoshopping all the pics of tyres on the online stores so they don’t have those sticky outy bits on them? Yes, I know, real sad!

I was very pleased with myself having done the first DIY service on my forks – until my wife pointed out I had one spare ‘O’ ring left over!

After dissembling them again and pouring over the manuals and all the parts for about an hour, I finally realised it was the ‘O’ ring that goes on the stanchion to set sag 😳

Don’t people just ride them off?

Maybe I should try the same with my fingernails, like just drag them along the ground a bit while I’m riding…