Yes the Merlin ones are 6-bolt, and QR + QR. Bike-discount offer 6-bolt or centrelock, QR or 15mm thru axle versions. Make sure you order the right ones for your bike!

With proper UST rims you can run normal tyres, tubeless ready, and UST. If running tubeless ready or UST you don’t need rim strips or goo to seal, but its still worth using goo for puncture protection.

I find my Anthem 29er a great XC race bike, fast in races, and comfortable for all day firetrail epics.

But… my 26″ Trance handles twisty turney stuff and jumps better, and is more fun to ride.

Thats all…

+1 for the Shimano MT65 wheelset. Got a pair a few months back and have been very pleased – like them more than the XT on my other bike! They’re a real bargain at the mo cos Shimano have just released their successor, the MT66, but IMHO the MT65 are actually a better wheel because they have proper sealed UST rims like the XT/XTR, versus the cheaper system on the MT66 which relies on spoke hole plugs, rim strips and goo to seal the rims.

By the way, I bought mine here and they seem to be a bit cheaper still… http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k735/a86075/wh-mt65-mtb-15-mm-e-thru-disc-wheelset-centerlock.html

Ahhh, so that’s why they changed from float fluid to green oil, thanks Loco.

Mixture of both you say – Ok I’ll go with that…

Yeah, but I am the OP ;-)

And the foam rings sit inside the wiper seals, and as far as I’m aware their sole function is to keep the seals lubricated – but willing to be corrected…

Are they grease’s? If they are can’t imagine them being much use on the foam rings – no penetration etc

Yes, I belive they are grease, but what do you mean by “no penetration etc”. I thought the purpose of the foam rings was just to hold a dollup of your lubricant of choice next to the rubber wiper seals, so they were kept nice & slippery – no?

Grease is normally just for dust seals…. ??

Isn’t that what the wiper seals on the forks are?

Soooo, about equal votes so far for float fluid and Fox green oil, and both camps claiming theirs is the Fox recommended practice :D

Not surprising really, as Fox themselves seem to be a bit schizophrenic on the issue – recommending float fluid here, but Fox green oil here :?

But why no votes for judy butter or slick honey yet? Are those only supposed to be applied to the stanchions externally, and not loaded up into the foam rings?

Are you sure its a problem with the pump, not the pin seated too far in on the schraeder valve on the fork?

I ask cos that was the problem with my brand new Fox shock. Some pumps could depress it, others couldn’t reach the pin cos it was screwed in too far.

LBS said it was an extra special high pressure schraeder valve with special oil resistant rubber seals, so shock had to be sent away to Fox service centre for a replacement valve.

Having been the victim of their misinformation before, I emailed Fox service in the US and they told me any old schraeder valve core from a spare inner tube or an auto store would do.

So, I removed valve core with a nifty little tool from auto parts store (although you could just about do it with a pair of tweezers or a tiny pair of needle nosed pliers – but let the air out first!!), and fitted new one from a spare inner tube, and never had a problem since…

OMG – just clicked on this thread and it came up framed by ads for audio cables – looks over shoulder nervously.

Maxxis LUST tyres seem to be coated with teflon on the inside, I just couldn’t get a normal patch to stick. As others have suggested above, for a small pinprick use the Velox kit, and for a larger hole go for the Weldtite stuff.

Been told motorbike tubeless kits work well too, as they are proper tubeless tyres as well, but haven’t tried them meself yet…

All this talk of stiffness is really starting to get my BS antenna twitching!

What’s wrong with a bit of flex in the front end anyway – its a mountain bike FFS! It’s got 140mm of flex built into the forks, two and a half inches of flex in the tyre, not to mention the inherent flex in a spoked wheel, and all the other components between the dirt and your hands!

With all that going on, and bouncing all over the place on your average technical trail, would anyone really notice the difference in stiffness between a 9mm and 15mm bolt – I mean if we did a proper blind test of the Pepsi challenge variety – would they really be able to tell which was stiffer?

Can’t say I’ve noticed a difference in stiffness going from a 9mm QR to a 15mm thu axle. Not saying it isn’t stiffer, but how would you notice it on the front end of a bike with squishy forks and a squirmy tyre?

I’m afraid that one’s up there with the guys who rave about their new cranks being so much stiffer :roll:

But… I would go for the bolt thru anyway just because it means the wheel goes back on in exactly the same position – saves all that fiddling to get rotor lined up perfectly in the caliper each time.

Ewww – ever wished you hadn’t clicked on a thread 8O

My T-shirt girl has returned to me after ignoring me for a few days.

I’m happy again, and I’ve forgiven her…

Kinda what I expected. The Zee stuff looks like some SLX/Deore stuff cobbled together and re-branded as a downhill groupset, whereas Saint has clearly been designed from the bottom up to be tough-as.

9 speed and other 10 speed aren’t, also, 10s triples need a non-directional chain.

Hmmm, not so sure about that. All Shimano Dynasys 10 speed MTB chains are directional as well, and they are for triples as well as doubles.

Edit: just realised you were probably talking about road chains only, so my comment isn’t relevant :oops:

But agree the best combination is a Shimano chain with KMC link.

Can someone explain how it gets up there if it’s so dense.

Methinks you’re confusing the Ozone layer with the Greenhouse effect. The Ozone is “up there’ (although there’s a lot of it down here also which is a pollution hazard), but the greenhouse effect is a result of the relative proportions of different gasses in the atmosphere in general – not a specific layer at some particular height.

Have had Avid Single Digit 7 on my hybrid/commuter for the last five years and can’t fault them. Stainless components don’t rust like the lower level ones.

Just be aware the recent XT freehubs don’t have a good reputation for reliability – a quick google will bring up quite a few forum discussions!

Mine’s started to feel glitchy after only six months, so I ordered a whole spare hub for 40 quid so I’ve got spare freehub, axle, cones, bearings etc. ready.

Women you used to go Phwooarr! over in your youth now look like respectable old grannies!

Bands you used to go and see in your twenties are now on their second comeback, sound cr@p, and play in Las Vegas to pay their tax arrears.

Your favourite film stars are all dead.

A couple of inches of gravel and/or sand over hardpack is our usual riding surface here in Western Australia. It’s called ‘pea gravel’ and can be described as like riding on ball bearings over concrete!

We don’t have much choice so we choose the best tyres for the conditions and adapt our riding style accordingly (don’t make any sudden changes of direction!)

But to answer the question, Maxxis Ignitor or Ardent front in a 2.3 width, matched to a 2.1 Crossmark on the rear is a very common choice, as its the front wheel washing out you have to worry about on gravel. The Ignitor is a bit more surefooted, but the Ardent faster. Both let go in a reasonably predictable fashion. I’ve run both tubed and tubeless, and it doesn’t make much difference, although I’m all tubeless now but that’s for pinch-flat prevention.

Oils and waxes – pah!

I’ve seen the future of drivetrain lubrication, and it’s pencil lead 8O well, sort of…

Solid chain lubrication involves a compact graphite-based material shaped like the jockey pulleys of the derailleur. All you need to do is replace the bottom jockey pulley in the rear derailleur.

The abrasion of the lubricant that occurs through contact with the chain while pedaling transfers the lubricant to the chain, where it is further distributed to the entire drivechain

Linky to their web site…

Agree – its a rip off!

And then they take the pish by suggesting we also use the stuff to wash the chain with…

Excerpt from a ‘leading brand’ use instructions…

Apply the lube on the chain, over the top of the cog. Let a nice flow of lube go onto the chain (don’t be cheap). Remember you’re going to clean and lube the chain in one step

Particularly like this bit…

don’t be cheap

Oh the ironing!

Its just companies trying to find ways of making more money out of us bikers. Resist!

I know its popular to come over all minimalist and make one bike do all, and I agree the biggest differnce comes from skills and fitness, but…

Also nowt wrong with having two or three different bikes to experiment with, especially when still learning – afterall, how else to you know the pros & cons of different wheel sizes, hardtail vs full suspension, long travel vs short etc.

And this…

it is nice to have an excuse to buy nice sparkly parts

As above, it really depends on the type of XC courses and your fitness.

I’ve done two seasons of XC racing on a variety of bikes – HT 26, medium travel FS 26, short travel FS 29, so have been able to make a few comparisons.

The HT feels faster, and is also the lightest of the three, but according to the stopwatch it is actually the slowest :( . I put this down to having more control/grip with the full suspension, and being able to pedal over obstacles rather than get up out of the saddle and coast. The HT is also very uncomfortable for anything over two hours, where I don’t have the energy to get out of the saddle for every little bump.

Between my two full suspension bikes, on tight technical courses I definitely prefer the medium travel 26 – it just seems more agile and maneuverable. But again, the stopwatch says my times are no different on the same courses with the short travel 29er (I’m guessing what I lose on the technical sections with the 29er, I make up in the straights).

On fast and long fire trail type epics there’s no doubt – the short travel FS 29er is king – feels it, and the stopwatch confirms it!

That’s just my experience with my bikes, and if you’d asked which I have more fun on, the answer would have been different :D

All that aside, as you’ve already got a 26″ HT, why not go for something a bit different for your second bike anyway? My current mantra is ‘horses for courses’ and it’s good to have different setups to go with different riding conditions, and its the best way to find out what suits you best…

Its been fun chaps, but the Limo’s just arrived and I’ve got a champers reception on the yacht with a few mates, before the opera starts, so gotta rush…

Its a drag, but thats life when your economy is responsible for supporting the only country in the western world not in recession :wink:

By the way, any of you actually been to Perth recently…

Look me up if you do, and we’ll go for a ride…

That can’t be a pic from Perth. There’s a plate and cutlery.

True. There fixed it…

Speak up Perth the CB is crackling a bit carrier pigeon’s been blown off course a little

What’s that ya sayin Flashy – piggin? Thems only good fa one thing round these parts…

Speak up Perth the CB is crackling a bit

CB – pah! I’ve got me one of them new fangled mobile phones…

Yep, it’s just about to enter the rip-roaring 90s

You’re just jealous your company car isn’t one of these…

Give it a few years and it may make it’s way over to WA

WA’s where it’s all happenin man – the East is so yesterday’s nooos….

With two bikes with press-fit BBs, and an average life expectancy of around nine months per unit, I decided it was worth investing in the proper tools…

Changing a BB is now a ten minute job, and the tools cost about 40 quid IIRC, so a no brainer really…

Edit: Yes I realise Hope ones need an additional tool, but I’ll probably stick to the disposable Shimano ones – I just treat BBs as a consumable now, like tyres and brake pads :D

Don’t know if you’re still looking, but this just came up on the PMBC forum…

Just another thought….

If you’re coming all that way, and have a year at your disposal, you may want to consider something more than just the normal backpackers route down the east coast.

When I did my trip around Oz (many years ago I admit) I soon started to get bored of the endless procession of beautiful unspoilt beaches down the east coast :D , and really enjoyed the contrast that some of the more out-of-the-way places offered. Cape York in the tropical far north of Queensland is a great experience, as is driving through the dry centre to see Ayres Rock (or Uluru as we’re supposed to call it now). But, the highlight for me was definitely the Northern Territories – Kakadu (where Crocodile Dundee was filmed), Litchfield, and Katherine Gorge.

The east coast is nice n all, but it’d be a shame to miss out on some of those iconic Australian outback experiences, although it will probably triple the amount of miles you clock up by just adding those three in!

Err… yes. But I drink coffee :(

Seems to be a bit of a theme around here recently – Yesterday’s thread

Is it something to do with the long hard winter combined with a cr@p economy?

Is this the newer Kashima forks or older Fox Floats?

I understand the foam ring was a ‘feature’ of 2010-2012 Floats only.

Just do it!

I did something similar in my late twenties, but without the family in tow, but I’m now living in Oz and have met many local and international families doing it, and none of them regret it one bit.

Just a bit of advice based on my camping experiences in Oz…

An integrated campervan is Ok for short holidays, but for a longer trip I’d suiggest a separate vehicle and camper, something like this…

Gives you much more flexibility to base yourself somewhere for days or weeks, and explore daily in the vehicle, rather than having to pack up your whole home and take it with you you every time you move, or just want to nip to the beach/supermarket!

Also, some may recommend a 4WD camper and/or vehicle, but there’s actually very few places you really need that going down the east coast, and its a big burden in terms of fuel efficiency, speed, and spares. For those occasional off the beaten track excursions you can always hire a 4WD or join a tour. (Note: if you’d included WA in your itinerary I would have recommended 4WD)

Distances are massive in Oz, leave enough time to transit between places, accept the days of travel will be boring for the kids and have a plan for it (catching up with schoolwork for example!), and save enough in your budget to do things when you get places – biggest mistake backpackers make! For example, there’s no point in just going to Cairns – in fact its a bit of a tourist dump – you need to have the money to do a liveaboard dive trip out on the Barrier Reef, or hire a boat to cruise the Witsundays, for example.

Finally, plan well for the seasons, as there’s some serious weather in Oz. You want to be up north in our winter when it’s dry and not too hot, down south in time to enjoy the summer, and in NZ in winter/summer depending if you want to tour or ski!

Hope that’s of some help, but I’m sure others will be along soon to add to it and/or disagree with what I’ve said :D

Guys above have answered your questions already, so all I can add is that there’s good step by step guides on the Fox service website to show you how to get the air piston out.

Spent fifteen years in marketing/business development roles with some big companies, but got to the level where I was just spending all day in meetings and not actually doing anything – and besides the office politics was the pits!

What it did give me was a cushion of money to try something else, so I started with a year ticking off my ‘bucket list’ – got my Yachtmaster ticket, bought a house and rennovated it, learnt to paraglide, spent two months cycletouring New Zealand, three months on a boat travelling thru Asia and the Pacific, got married! Then, I set myself up in the marine business, as boats had been a passion for most of my life.

I’d like to be able to say that I was happy for ever after and retired a millionaire – but it didn’t work out that way. After three years of fantastic experiences but backbreakingly hard work, I had to admit to myself I wasn’t going to be able to make a living out of it. To top it off my first child was born, and I wasn’t at home much cos of the job.

So, I’m now on my third career, and have moved to Australia, and this time I tried to plan it a bit better – yes something I enjoy and feel good about, but also something that has a future and can support my family. I think I’ve found a better balance this time around. I’ll never earn as much as I did when working for the man, but then I’ve found my priorities are different now after all I’ve been thru. Gone are the luxury holidays, latest electronics, expensive cars and boats, and instead I enjoy the simple pleasures of camping with my daughter (now eight) and MTBing with my buddies.

Hopefully there’s a lesson for someone, somewhere in all of that… if you find one, let me know what it is :-)