Well, what actually is the intellectual justification for universal suffrage?

Me! Me!

Is it because giving the rabble the meanest form of what they think they want and telling them it is what they want suppresses the mob from acting on the urge to behead rich w*****s (the mob of course fails to realise that having beheaded one elite, a new set of w*****s become the new elite, less beholden to any sense of social decency given the prevailing mood of violence and intimidation and their galvanised sociopathy given their participation in beheading the previous w*****s)?

Or put another way… stability above all else or you get Russia.

We’re in the middle of a bathroom job that’s hit a few snags.

London flat in Victorian mansion block; top floor (4th) with bad water pressure; small bathroom; adjoining guest loo; rotten subfloor remade over concrete; a bit of studwork; shower over bath… wall hung loo (what could go wrong?).

The water pressure stuff needed sorting so we now have a break tank with pressure pump in the roof and an indirect Megaflo. Plumber had about a 50% success rate with making up 22mm compression joints leak free so we’ve already had leaks from the roof. I’ve gone around and fixed the leaks myself and the primary circuit has held pressure for a couple of weeks now.

The wall hung loo bit is a saga, of course. Before tiling I was concerned the debris shield for the flush plate was loose, skew and generally sloppy. Look closer. The plastic tabs had been snapped off as they had taken it off to do the plaster skim. Look closer. Loads of debris in the cistern including broken plastic tabs. Look closer. In clearing out the debris find the cistern is cracked at the flush pipe fitting because it has been monkeyed about at some point.

Great. So call them back to cut out the beautiful freshly skimmed, freshly built boxwork to get the loo frame out. They claiming “must have come from the manufacturer like that”. IDGAS. Look closer. They’d fitted the loo frame onto bare plasterboard over the studwork. the plasterboard has already failed in crush so the frame was going to be loose in the wall. They’d missed out fitting the bowl mounting studs back onto the wall so they’d have been relying on the frame for all the strength/stiffness rather than the frame and wall combined. The basin drain had been run tight behind the flush pipe so it was pushing the flush pipe forward and likely the cause of the force that snapped/cracked the cistern when leant on during the fitting. They’re calling the plumber back in to fix this but I’m not full of trust in my plumber for the mechanical details.

Last area of concern. They’ve done new plaster skim on all the walls (solid wall and partitions). Wet area has paint on tanking over the plaster skim. Wet area tiles are porcelain 9mm bricks coming in at 19.9kg/sqm before adhesive and grout. So the wall loading is going to be significantly over 20kg/sqm. Architect says he’s done loads like that.

What would Singletrack do?

That is essentially what the leaked judgement proposes.

Lawmakers propose and vote on law to supplement or amend settled law. To undo settled law in a SCOTUS ruling is an astonishing step. This rips away protections. It leaves vulnerable women unprotected where they have been protected previously. They will remain unprotected until an entire legislative process can go through a cycle of reintroducing protections in a patchwork across 50 state legislatures. Currently the political momentum is swinging the other way which means that meaningfully it may be another 50 years until the baseline protections covered by Roe v Wade have any chance of being back in place.

That seems to me to be a gross dereliction of responsibility under the Constitution.

The false technical legal argument is that the anchoring of Roe v Wade ruling on Constitutional protections of rights afforded too broad a scope that could not be piecewise amended by new law. But this is false. The availability of abortions has been routinely amended by new law and the protection of the foetus has been ably supported by newly introduced law. The new laws that are enabled by this ruling are those that represent a direct, retrogressive attack on women’s rights.

The fact that there is a naked linkage between the restrictive laws being passed and “religious” dogma furthermore shows that SCOTUS has allowed political persuasions to override its responsibility in upholding the secular Constitution.

The whole thing is a travesty built on a wedge issue, fuelled by disinformation and manipulation on media platforms.

Or, in conservative-speak, it is the front line in the war between libertarianism and socialism. Libertarianism means having guns and not having government interference, so this move is actually pro-freedom.

Go figure.

As an OP in need of advice, thank you both. Both opinions have helped me.

@metaam, thank you for your thoughts. I’d read about the pros and cons of fitting direct onto the threaded end of a compression fitting and I’m sure it is percentages game; theoretical risk doesn’t equal certain disaster. I have also seen these which seem to directly address the problem: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09R27L9QH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_77T6BD3HD2DABV08F3DV

I also found a stash of radiator tails. Sounds like good reason not to use those too.

This is the last part of a larger install. New bathroom, megaflo and pressurised break tank.
I’ve had a few problems with my plumber having a hit and miss success rate on compression fittings. We’ve been going around all the joints multiple times to chase out the leaks. Doesn’t give much confidence. He seems to be using pipe sealing cord on the threads which seems all wrong to me. Overall it is a big install and sometimes I’ve found joints so loose he’s obviously lost track of which ones have been done. So right at this instant I’m not too keen on compression joints in combination with this plumber. I’ve done my own in the past and sometimes use PTFE tape on the olive which always seems to work. I do my own end feed and solder ring fittings in copper no problem and all the copper work done by the plumber has been good; the plastics have been good too. It is just the compression joints causing problems. As there are a few on plastic I may take some apart and check for the presence of inserts.

For this last fiddly little job I just was getting to a point of despair of not being able to see how to join part A to part B without parts B, C, D and/or Z. So many ways to skin this cat and none of them particularly appealing.

@Blazin-saddles so option #1. Loading up my Toolstation basket…

The bit I’m concerned by is that the USSC can overturn its previous precedent setting ruling. i.e. precedent is no precedent. This in itself could make the rule of law arbitrary.

However Roe v Wade was not a matter of interpretation of specific legislation so much as an interpretation of the constitution – the broadest federal legislation. The matter hinged on protection of rights, guaranteed (vaguely) under the Constitution at a time (1970s) when women’s rights were under threat from legislation in numerous individual states.

Now, 50 years later, women’s rights are under threat from legislation in numerous individual states and the USSC has chosen to revert the previously settled scope of guarantees under the Constitution.

Now here is what is abhorrent about this news: nothing substantive has changed about this issue except political postures. The position now is that vulnerable women will be unprotected by default from being victimised by laws being passed by individual state legislatures. The arguments have popped through a time warp from 50 years ago. The argument that was settled is now reversed. It is the work of a moment. 50 years of precedent count for nothing. There is no new merit determined here. There is just a flip-flop in a court tainted by political appointments.

So the rule of law in the US is arbitrary. Arguably this is not new but it is new for it to be so blatant and visible. The separation of powers between legislative , executive and judicial branches depends on each staying in their own lane but here we have the judicial branch effectively making new law by upending existing, settled law. The supreme court submits to no oversight and cannot be challenged.

That the rule of law is visibly faltering in democracy’s noisiest defender should not be discounted as having been Vladimir Putin’s doing over a long and steady campaign. Perhaps that is why he is celebrating victory this week.

Do childhood bikes count? Think I went through four as a kid, including hand-me-downs.

After that 20:

F.W. Evans own brand 531c 105 1987
Cannondale R500 1988
Paganini Columbus SL – 1990
Trek 5200
S-Works M2
Cheapo no-brand steel winter trainer in too large a size
Devinci Leo SL
Ribble winter trainer
Ribble winter trainer x2

Marin Indian Fire Trail 1992
S-Works M2 with carbon Future Shock – manufacturing fault meant I returned it after discovering it only turned left
Whyte 46 – 2007
Whyte E5
Whyte E-120
Yeti SB66 – 2011
Devinci Dixon – 2011
Devinci Spartan – 2014
Devinci Spartan carbon- 2017
Norco Range

1x e-MTB

Bold for the bikes that exceeded my expectations (combination of performance, reliability and plain enjoyment).

In solving dust extraction, noise, size and portability became my next problems. I had a £40 shopvac that sounded like a 747 taking off attached to an Amazon bought far-east cyclone and a blue food keg. To set up in any location you had to disconnect stuff and trail sawdust from thither to hither before joining it all up again. Remote start I fixed with an Ikea Tradfri plug and switch (magnetic) set. (I tried the E-ON plug but it was unreliable and you need an override for general work area cleanup, not just when the tool is running)

Matching it to tools I used one of the Cen-Tec sets from Amazon and the pipework between the cyclone and he vac was pvc drain pipe pieces. The cheap shopvac didn’t have any kind of pleated filter – just the bag and a bit of foam so I was still breathing filthy air and a layer of dust would settle on surfaces.

But… the separator really worked well. Hardly anything in the shop vac itself and full suction all the way to full. The final problem was that you had to open the keg to see how full it was.

I stretched this setup to the limit, using it for a thicknesser and working with scaffold boards. This would clog up the hose reliably if you took thick cuts but it did work if you were sensible. The separator did its thing but even with 30 litres of keg, it would fill up in minutes and would create a real mess if you let it get over-full.

I’ve since given in to the green-eyed monster and have a Festool setup. It has turned out to be wife-friendly expenditure; it is quieter; it is properly filtered; it attaches reliably to tools. The Festool pre-separator (an extravagance) isn’t very good, losing a lot of suction and letting a lot through to the vacuum bag if it gets reasonably full; its usable capacity is therefore much lower than the advertised 20 litres and using it with plastic liner bags (Festool recommended) is pathetic and useless.

So for me, the sweet spot for cheap and compact would actually be a large size (30l) shop vac with a power take off and a HEPA filter… or a compact vac with a separator rig integrated on top of it. I wouldn’t use a compact vac without a separator.

My future probably has me rigging up another cyclone setup on top of the Festool.

Just seen your post. Parallel guides are good. Just be aware that the link you posted does not include the Incra track you need. Also you need to resticker the generic Incra track to get a width scale that adds on the width of the track (and a bit). The first comment on the Etsy page explains it all.

The TSO guides I mentioned are lovely but *don’t include the adapters to connect to the track*. So the whole setup is £200 (parallel guides) + ~£94 (cheapest I could find Festool square) + £53 and out of stock for the second attachment. £350 and you’ve got the whole setup including rips, narrow rips and repeat cross cuts.

FWIW, my plywood square is just as accurate for cross cuts and it still gets used for cuts between 760mm and 1200mm. If I’d not been lazy I could have made an adapter for a second fence but the Benchdogs fence is £90 anyway. Everything is money but getting accurate work first time is worth money too.

I looked at the Benchdogs and the Festool (TSO under licence I believe).

I didn’t like the cam lock levers on the Benchdogs. It means the registration for square is actually off the relatively small nub that engages in the centre T-slot. I went with the Festool which registers against the back face of the track over the full width of the square.

Previously I had made my own plywood square which has been incredibly accurate. I have attached to a Benchdogs fence to that one, allowing repeat cuts out to 1.2m but it is a bit cumbersome.

Latest purchase has been the TSO parallel guides. This has been a game changer for accuracy on any long narrow cuts. One of the parallel guides is mounted up on the Festool square, which can then be used without the second guide just the same as my homebrew setup to give repeat, measured, 90 degree cuts out to 760mm.

All of these are using Makita track. Strangely I tried some Triton track but the registration wobbled on its contact point with the square. That might indicate that the Benchdogs square is taking registration from a bit of the extruded rail that’s less likely to suffer damage and also implies you need to look after you rails.

Cessation of hostilities does not return Ukraine to where it was before this all kicked off. If reparations demands and a hostile sanctions regimen are sustained do you not put Russia even further into the mould of 1930s Germany?

Is there an ethical answer with a hope in hell of actually happening and not exacerbating future security? Does capitalism just suck up standing Ukraine back on its feet as a balance sheet item?

Powerlines are perfectly good network media adapters. Ethernet goes in at one end and it pops out at the other. What is missing is that your computer doesn’t know whether to send network packets on wifi or via the ethernet. That is a routing /switching problem and why you need a switch (or the switch built into your router). Essentially the link from PC to NAS will be a separate network with separate addressing. With some fancy config on your computer you can probably get it to work but that falls into the “life is too short” category for me as that sort of config doesn’t have the set and forget reliability of networking components.

Many a NAS will happily run a DHCP server but you need a rule on the computer to divert *some* traffic to the NAS and other traffic via the router – essentially a routing table.

It is a nasty little problem. The “if in doubt, more wifis” approach of the industry to home networking does nothing to help you unless the stuff you have on the NAS is actually commodity content you can get off [insert name of streaming media provider here].

Easiest may be to relocate the NAS to the router and plug it in to a socket if you can. Why does the NAS need to be behind the TV?

I cleaned up the pistons again and this time lubed them with Hunters silicone lube

This is a really good point and a good data point from another brand’s brakes.

The piston/seal interface is the complicated part of hydraulic brakes. If there is dust and muck, they won’t work as designed. I use most changes of brake pads as an opportunity to clean up brake dust and trail crud while the pistons are pushed out and to ensure they’re moving evenly.

I think Marshy’s bleeding technique has the really useful side effect of lubricating and cleaning the pistons.

Re. routers, I’ve got two very different options.

The beast is the Triton TRA-001. This is 2400W 1/2 inch and lives in the router table most of the time. It is a simple option for the router table because it has the riser mechanism built in. It can swing some seriously large bits and nothing fazes it. It was justified when I needed to template trim some 38mm oak worktops.

The other is a Katsu 1/4in. It is crude but is permanently fitted with a round over bit. Noisy and makes sawdust.

Once again, Millard is on hand to explain the n+1 theory of routers: https://youtu.be/Y_gLxlCcY5Y

I cannot emphasise enough how much I’ve learned from Peter Millard and a few other youtubers.
The genius is in knocking up little jigs that enhance these tools. The fancypants Festool-esque solutions offer pricetags for fantastically engineered functionality but with a bit of ingenuity you can get 95% of the capability for pennies and a bit of time spent.

Sorry for slight hijack, but did we settle on the STW approved tracksaw

I went from Triton to Festool and it is night and day. With the cheaper options you have to strive to achieve accuracy which comes built in with the better tools.

The Festool (mine is battery powered) has less power than the Triton but using an appropriate blade for the work in hand makes it a non-issue. The latest versions with the thinner kerf (1.8 vs 2.2 mm) blades have a much easier time of it.

Makita is the commonly referenced mid-range option and there won’t be much wrong with it but last time I looked it lacked safety features for preventing kickback.

Last little thing is about battery power vs cable. Using the battery powered festool with the dust catching bag means … no cables or hoses attached and really easy to manoeuvre and a completely portable option with great dust collection. Obviously a real dust extractor is better but I’ve taken my track saw to a timber merchants to break down sheet goods in the car park so they fit in the car. Obviously there are some merchants who’ll do that for you with panel saws but when there’s a bit of a rush on it is useful.

Dont suppose theres a YouTube video for that

On a table saw, but it is the same idea as with a track saw/clamped straight edge combo…

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUEJO55nl8jT-pVPLQuGUTlvDwidHGaQ2

when the initial purpose is cutting Dados/Rabbets.

Dado construction is one of those things that Mericans go on and on about, ‘cos they’ve got table saws. FWIW (not much), rabbets/rabbits is ‘Merican too. Rebates is Brit.

I did a full custom kitchen with dado construction with a track saw. I wouldn’t use a router, even on a track adapter. I certainly would not use a palm router.

Piece of pi55 with a track saw. Just make yourself a shim the thickness of the blade’s kerf. Clamp up a straight edge. Cut #1: put the shim against the straight edge, put the track against the shim. Cut #2: take away the shim; put on offcut of the material that will be mating into the dado against the straight edge; put the track against the offcut. You now have the accurate edges of your dado. Hog out the material in the middle any way you care. Track saw is still dead easy for this.

Peter Millard is a goldmine. All killer / no filler.

Are adapters fairly commonplace to allow a router to run on another manufacturers rail guide, from a Festool track saw in this case?

Arf. You’ve seen the prices of Festool track.

Millard did a video on cross-compatibility of different manufacturers track with different saws, but mostly for cheap saw cross-compatibility. Festool/Makita/Triton are all 98% the same but Makita adds an anti-tipping lip on the back channel and Triton copy that. I’ve used Triton and Festool saws on Makita track. Hint: Never use more than one saw on a piece of track – no guarantee that the second saw won’t trim back the splinter guard and make it useless for the first saw.

Another hint with the festool saw. Blades matter. The default blade is usually a detail 48T blade for cutting laminate without chipping. The saw will struggle if you start running it through thick timber, particularly for rips. It will stall and burn the work. Get lower tooth count blades appropriately if you need them. Also occasionally clean your blades. Meths or isopropyl alcohol work a treat.

stray onto the path

FTFY. Defence stated it was an accident

That the jury were told of his previous convictions means that the judge assessed the appropriateness of informing the jurors of the defendants bad character as proven by those convictions for similar offences.

While modern life is polarising sane individuals into extreme versions of themselves in particular circumstances, this guy sounds like he has long been at the far end of the bell curve.

The other problem of a general drift and decline in driving standards and emboldened aggression behind the wheel *is* likely swayed by semantics in reporting. We often bitch about it when it is the other way round and we call it “victim-blaming”. Surely that has a flip side if sane human beings want to hold on to the moral high ground.

Guardian are usually good at this sort of thing but…

Their leading sentence describes the perp as a “driver”. In the detail he sounds like a murdering scumbag with a weapon of choice.

Does careless use of language linking this individual’s behaviour to the general notion of a “driver” lower the tone of public discourse? If you’re wearing a hoodie and you shank a gang member is the crime committed by a pedestrian?

FWIW, gaming is more affected by latency than throughput. The more radio hops between gamers and the router the worse it will be.

WFH usually means conf calls and telephony. That is also very sensitive to latency.

As well as the topological latency of radio hops, interference and collisions, congestion when the system comes under load (one user downloading something big) can prevent time sensitive packets from getting to their destination on time.

You have to take care over access point placement, channel selection as a start and then some mesh are better than others at solving these problems with their feature sets.

You need to shop carefully to get the best answer to these problems that doesn’t involve Cat 6 cabling and a network engineer.

What fun.

Just had an automated customer satisfaction survey call from SSE. The scores were not high.

Currently, the debt collection appears to have been cancelled. The complaint process has started.

@toby that’s exactly the BS

I asked: “what period and what meter readings do these charges relate to because you seem to be quite happily taking meter readings and charging me on another account. I’m concerned to have complete information that I am not being charged double”

Response: … crickets…

I had so much time on hold I had enough time to tweet (which seemed to get an amusingly rapid response).

Did finally get through to a customer rep. I was polite but firm that I was making a complaint. They put me on hold and lo… another half hour later the “you’re moving house” team pick up the call. If this wasn’t the third time of asking I’d conclude an outbreak of moronism but now I think it must be a part of standard process designed to engender despair.

Hell is a place on earth.

I’m only doing this to freshen up my reserve of opprobrium to make the complaint fresh and steaming.

If standard def, the upscaling may be better in the PVR.

Unless it is falling apart pixellated, it isn’t the signal; digital, innit?

I ran several bikes with Shimano brakes. No problem. Then I had a problem set. The rear M8000 XT 2 pot just was random. Sometimes it would pull short. Sometimes long.

I swapped the calipers between the hoses front to rear. Problem was now on the front brake.

Swapped back; problem at the back. Did the swap twice more. Yup. The caliper is the problem.

Not the m/c. Not air.

Dismantled and there was impacted swarf from manufacturing in the piston surface that was snagging the seal. That was as far as I gave a damn in sorting it out. New brakes please.

Having experienced a really bad caliper I paid closer attention to other Shimano brakes; they had some similar tendencies. The piston retraction is slow. If that’s friction or fluid viscosity, I don’t know. Combined with servo-wave, a small change in the rest position of the piston results in a bigger change in the lever pull on next use. It shows up in intense use (Alps etc.)

Shimano brakes try to retract the pistons further than other brands, with servo-wave bringing them back in contact on next use. I prefer now brands that run less clearance but work predicatbly. Formula Cura has been a good find.

@DrP FWIW I did the Henley Tough Mudder in 2014. 646m ascent/descent. 20.3km. It’s a different thing to Spartan as it isn’t a race and collaboration gets you through the obstacles. No silly penalty burpees for failing an obstacle; just a degradation of your dignity from falling into muddy water.

I think the Spartan stuff is genuinely tough. TM, was doable on minimum training. Good trail shoes made a hell of a difference. Henley can provide a lot of steep vertical on difficult terrain depending on exactly how the course setters have laid things out.

This guy is an entertaining watch with good info and a backstory

About that webcam… https://youtu.be/9fSVLbWHPlg

close all windows

If only we had windows. The new ones are getting fitted on Monday. The old ones went in October. Long story, full of tears.

Our next door neighbours have scaffolding with a top hat on that wasn’t sounding great during Dudley the other night.

Yeah. That’s us. Top floor flat in a mansion block with a big old scaffold maybe up 20m from ground level. The scaffolder just phoned me to tell me the cunning plan is to cut through the monarflex if it is getting bad.

and steve jobs obvs

Sure you’re not confusing him with Hugo Chavez?

A+++ driers have an annual expected usage of 170-200kWh based on 160 cycles. For 6 loads of washing (as per @zippykona) that would be about 7 kWh.

If the opportunity to buy a bike comes up rarely, do not buy an ebike. I love mine but I don’t expect it to have a five year lifespan.

If, after 2-3 good years, you can write it off and buy again, buy an ebike.

Colour: Medium gold

Nose: Salted lemon and lime and pickled sushi ginger at first. A toasted malt loaf aroma emerges with hints of caught fruit. When reduced fresher fruit notes develop with green apple, crisp citrus with herbal and floral notes. After time a sweetness of boiled sweets (the ones in the tin) and lime flavoured jelly sweets.

Palate: Super chewy with grist at full strength. Pithy pink grapefruit gives a very delicate bitterness. Malty and oaty flapjack with mixed peel. Wet hemp sacking. When reduced the slight bitterness lingers at the back of the palate like fresh green tea with lemon. A hint of sulphur.

Finish: Hot and chewy when neat but softens well on the second sip and with water – but excellent neat.

If the above sounds good… I had the chance last week to sample my cask share at Bruichladdich. We’ve just passed 10 years and are discussing what to do next.

Well done on not blindly following Shockwiz recommendations.

Shockwiz lies. Not intentionally but it doesn’t know what you’ve ridden or how you’ve ridden it.

I ordered 3x Shockwiz as soon as they came on the market. Intention was to get some feedback from GF (now wife’s) bike (both ends) and have one spare to move around on other bikes as I saw fit. I’ve got a lot of experience with Shockwiz.

IME, Shockwiz gets it right when I’m pinned on demanding “gravity” terrain. I’ve been perfectly happy with an 82-88% score for my more general riding as long as there are no “detections”.

The other day, I did a session on the eMTB at Comrie Croft where my setup wasn’t right and Shockwiz offered random suggestions (shock) with a score of 82. Ignoring those suggestions and instead raising the shock pressure to counter “mince pie” weight and push some grip up front, second lap I was able to ride “harder”. Shockwiz suddenly agreed I had the right setup with 100%. I also use “custom” and after a session, I flick between multiple tuning styles – the app updates its recommendations after you change the tuning style. It was giving 100% for firm-active, firm-poppy (my go-tos) and possibly a couple of others. I always checkout “firmest” and “normal” to bracket where the setup is.

So Shockwiz hints can be useful but you definitely need to parse them. FWIW, my Lyriks are at their best on Trailhead pressures – I don’t see full travel until I hit a ride with decent g-outs and Shockwiz 100% gets that wrong. There’s nothing wrong with riding around only using 130mm travel on a 170mm fork if you’re only hitting 130mm terrain and Shockwiz doesn’t have enough information to tell the difference.

Before going on a dry slope, be aware of the ease with which you can pick up a thumb injury. If skiing (with poles) get someone competent to show you how the pole strap (with a half twist) should sit in your palm so it also doesn’t snag your thumb in a fall.

I’ve never heard good things about the Charger RC damper but I’ve never ridden one either. The self-proclaimed gurus on MTBR suspension forum claim it is dumbed down, inadequate and mis-tuned. I think everybody was hoping for a Fox Grip equivalent (which outperformed expectations) but RockShox seem determined to compromise their cheaper offerings.

RCT3 Lyrik is solid and proven. It will not hold you back in getting into Enduro and even competing at a high level. I offer that verdict from experience.

I’d stick with the Lyrik.

Once upon a time a friend was invited to help another friend set up the handling on his Caterham at a airfield/track day so he loaded up his (new to him) BMW company car with a bootful of tools and trundled down the M4 on a pissing wet day with a blustery cross wind. BMW gave every impression it was going to kill him at slightest notice while travelling in a straight line.

Friend of friend was a no-show. Trackday organisers offer paid-for place. Was taken as an opportunity to scope out the level of demonic possession in the BMW.

First lap, the first hint of trouble and the stability control kicked in very aggressively. Nasty lurching as the electronics modulated the throttle. But it didn’t kill and it didn’t oversteer and it didn’t fishtail. Bimmer was a comfort spec 323 coupe with a wallowing ride quality that invariably made passengers queasy.

With the stability control off, discovery that the car had a party trick for drifting, adjustable, stable and accurate initiated at 100mph on the runway, gliding in an arc to join the coned off track in the taxiway waving at the TVRs, Loti and Porsches being overtaken. Trip to nearest tyre shop needed to get three down-to-the-canvas tyres replaced.

Moral of this story (besides public roads not being conducive to drifts initiated at 100MPH with net-positive outcomes)?: Stability control stayed engaged ever after. Bad, lurching stability control has its place. Anything you can do to expand your experience so you’re not surprised by how your vehicle reacts is good.