Just to echo this sage advice

<£100 of investment costs you £80, £60, or £55 depending on your marginal tax rate?
Seems cheap to me.>

When your looking at investments this is very hard to beat. House prices don’t beat this return. And remember to include all you costs in your investment like council tax on the huge house, maintenance, heating it suddenly dosent look like a sound investment choice.

Retired 55, advice? Plan and it will happen.

I switched to Shimano road cleats this year and new shoes. There was a clear weight saving and I felt they were stiffer but not by much.

try second hand ones, theirs lots for sale and they often have little use :-) All the major aps have a list of trainers that work with their software.

Bought mine from them, perfect bike , great price arrived in a couple weeks. No issues will buy again from them

Bearback

you enter FTP in your profile https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/articles/206438003-User-Profile-Age-Weight-FTP-

Steffmcdef et al

Without a smart trainer it bases it on your weight FTP etc. Its called Zpower. Its not remotely accurate I’m afraid. To get a proper work out you need a trainer with erg mode, smart trainer IMHO. Otherwise frankly I wouldn’t bother.

Ive been on Zwift since the beta. The workouts are based on your FTP. Obviously if you haven’t put a FTP in your profile it wont work correctly. Same for weight.

There is loads of how to advice on Zwift, recommended reading. https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/articles/203968635-Setting-up-a-Classic-Trainer-Rollers-zPower-

Don’t forget to do a FTP test and set your weight (honestly) :-D

Your doing it wrong.

You were in a workout.

In a workout the program and erg mode will limit you to watts you’ve set regardless of cadence. That’s why you cant catch anyone.

On the open road you pedal like normal, the incline retards your progress.

Don’t mix the two. Their different modes.

Its great fun and gets you fit. Join a group ride, try a race.

I put a rub a little sealant on the rims to let slip into position easier.

agreed depends a lot on where you ride. Low pressures here at 20psi and I’m a light rider

Was running 2.3 DHF and DHR. Switched to Aggresor on the back. Brilliant. Far better, no clogging woods, mud, roots. Now DHF and Aggresor rear seems to be best combination for me. I’ve used HR2 as well, good all round tyre. Try experimenting, it seems from the above the ones that have bought and tried like them, the rest is just opinion.

plus 1 for Santa Cruz, even the little things like cabling are sorted. My Bronson is external and so easy to work on.

plus one for stans

+1 dudeofdoom that crack as it seats aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh success!

I remembered on todays ride the other tip – use a tube and ride, your right it stretches it.

GZ on success – yeah some tyre – rim combinations aren’t meant to be :-)

Linky to tool?

Oh never seen that tool before.

Not all tyre rims are the same from my experience. Like the video – fake news! :-D If you don’t want your pro ones send them this way :-)

Sheck You must have been unlucky to get such a large hole. Use your foot to break the seal. Ive been using tubeless now for 8 years on MTB never had a puncture stans hasn’t sealed. Most I don’t notice until I take the tyre off and notice the thorns stuck in the tyre.

I then remove the valve core, air it up with compressor snapping it into position. You should hear a loud crack. Add stans and ensure it coats the inside of the tyre by twirling it around. Blow up to 100psi and leave overnight to make sure the bead is fully seated.

Adjust tyre pressures and go ride. 65 front 70 rear 68kg guy

Running Schwalbe pro ones 25 on Reynolds assault. No issues. Top tips:
1 Put some stans on the bead, makes it a bit more slippery to help ease it on.
2 Instead of tyre leavers get the tyre on until your at that impossible last 6 inches.
3 Trap the last 6 inches between your foot and garage floor then leaver the wheel away a bit from your foot. Use yourr foot to force the tyre on. A bit st a time. Works better with shoes with hard soles.

Sounds a bit heath Robinson but once you get it you’ll find it’s quite easy.

Tubeless road is very good, done about 10k km and no punctures, less road buzz and better grip with lower pressures

Have a look at your arm wrist shoulder alignment as well. Could be you need to change stem length and or roll your bars forward backwards. Thats whst the bar markings are for. For me a fairly straight line between shoulder and hands work. Experiment a bit with rolling the bar forward or backward. Might help I’d suggest using a gym workout or rowing to strengthen arms, wrist and hands.

I’d suggest that your sleep pattern is being destroyed by your shift pattern, working nights. Its well know that poor sleep pattern causes lots of problems.

Did Dowies etc etc 48km today its all fine. Even had my shorts on! Maxxis DHF and Aggressor 2.3. The Aggressor on the rear is instead of my normal DHR and it was even better IMHO. Running @ 20psi front and rear.

I don’t bother with freeminers red its not a great trail, fails to flow and poorly constructed. Lots of better stuff, corkscrew or sheepskull etc

Plus one Ciclo

Do you really have to notify your insurer even if you decide to just repair it yourself –

“You must tell us if you have any accidents, thefts or losses (whether a claim is made or not and regardless of blame)”

Is correct.

Go through insurance you have to tell them anyway and if theres witness pass on the details and let the insurance company sort it out. That way your not involved, its what we pay the insurance for.

One tip – one guy had a minor stumble broke a few fingers. No problem he got back down and we took him straight to hospital as it was on the way back. They wanted $500 or credit card before they would do anything. He’d forgotten to carry proof of insurance with him. Just a reminder to carry it with you as its no good back in the hotel :-D I have the dogtag ‘dogtag’ strapped to my camlbak.

Dog tag I use annual works out really cheap for multiple trips

the 1×11 and 1×12 sram free hub are the same

don’t need crank if your already 1 x 11 sram xo fits

I’d recheck that the shifter was in highest gear when you inserted the cable?

Could be your cable tension? When you fitted it did you have the barrel screwed two turns out? You should just then pull the cable through without moving the rear derailleur. No need for cable puller. Just hand tight is good. You do not index the gears like shimano.

The B screw wont make that much difference.

Is the lock out, out?

Other issue is often too long a chain but that tends to just give bad shifting. IMHO the SRAM 1×11 and 1×12 is very easy to setup. Google for a video to check.

Just done a new cassette, chain and shifter cable on mine.

When my 800 had the same problem as yours I dried out the connection port and a squirt of GT85 and a cotton ear bud after it had got immersed in a botched stream crossing :-) Been working fine ever since.

I still have 800 and have 1000. The 1000 and the 1030 are a great improvement. Do it you wont regret it. Bigger screen etc. I had OS SSD card works fine in 1000 but TBH the mapping that comes with it is better and more upto date. Too many features? You can turn off what you don’t need to save battery life. My 800 is years old and still going strong think 1000 is about 3 – 4 years old same never had any issues. One thing about battery life and GPS is that you must never let them go completely flat, keep them charged up 100%. I also have the rubber case for them that seems to save them a lot of damage in falls etc

I use a TACX Vortex not direct drive. I’d suggest that’s the answer, no need for a thru axle.

Zwift. Great workouts, races, social rides, pro riders, e fondos etc etc. I’ve tried trainer road, sufferfest ap etc. All very good but Zwift has people and you even bump into mates online. Go for a spin. Other solo aps. Fine but crushingly boring. IMHO trainer road and other so called serious aps are on a hiding to nowhere.

Trainer road makes two points. One, 20 min is the preferd test and secondly FTP is based on repeat FTP tests not two different times/situations. Regardless of wether you choose 20 min or 8 or 10 min. Repeat tests using the same parameters are the key. Outdoor and indoor just aren’t the same even if you use the same power meter. I judge mine based on average over the year. Close enough for me. It doesn’t mean that one power meter or turbo trainer is better.

If you want to get a rough idea of what’s the best indoor trainer for your money then I’d suggest dcrainmker site. Gives a fairly un biased view and from my experience pretty accurate weighting of the pros and cons.

If you turbo you will know about resistance and peddling using erg. The trainer in erg mode will ramp up or down the resistance depending on what your doing. Having come from mechanical to smart turbos it works like this. Mechanical you move a lever to increase resistance for a given cadence. Smart turbos ramp up the power automatically for the same cadence. So if your on a smart turbo at 90 cadence you will have to provide a damn sight more power when the computer program says go from 250w to 300w for the same cadence. The smart trainer will try and match your cadence to the power. Maintaining a steady cadence is key. Lower cadence can see the same wattage but your standing on the pedals to get the power. Kinda mimics real life. Hopefully I’ve not over complicated this :-D

ftp are 20 min tests and best if you do the 20min back to back test to get an average. Then repeated over say a year at regular intervals. FTP subject to lots of variables. You cant just take one random time/output. 8 min FTP? No such thing. Besides road and turbo two different things. On the road your going up and down and avoiding traffic etc. On turbo your flat out nothing to avoid. Apples and pears. Besides each power meter or smart turbo has a different algorithm to work out your FTP.

Way ahead? Choose one method and repeat and record over time to record true progress.

thanks looks good. GPS track dosent download though. Most/all are GPS these days ;-)

Thank you very much, very kind. I’m off to buy!

Did you need to change the chain ring Mike, thanks for the reply. Currently 32t XO 1 x11.

I know shifters, chain cassette has to change no problems. Now I’m tempted! I note the German shops are selling just upgrade kits. Shifters, chain cassette.

Currently XO1. Would love to move to eagle – can I keep my sram XO1 crank and chain ring? I know a XX1 crank will. You can just put the new chain ring on.

Or just get sram GX? Whole setup is pretty damn cheap