How does this work with second hand items?

That’s what we did a week or two ago Simon, but rather than doing Roych Clough, we went down Chapel Gate, then did Jacobs Ladder as an out and back. Love the sunken track!

I’ve got an Element FRsomething hub and a Reverse something or other hub. Both have adaptors that pop out easy enoguh and both came from Just Riding Along, so I suspect I can get adaptors for both hubs no problem.

It would be easier to adapt the axle because eventually I’d get a third set of wheels for this bike, which would then either have to be only useable on that bike, or I’d have to get adaptable hubs and get the adaptors.

It’s a minor thing really, but it’s a consideration when deciding whether to get 44s or 55s for the bike.

Cheers

Melting? I don’t believe that!

Nice one, cheers.

Bent wheels aren’t noticeable in MX like they are on a Mountain Bike, much bigger tyres on smaller wheels and generally in mud anyway.

The advantage of carbon for rims is that it’ll stay completely true until you shatter it. So long as they’re strong enough you’ve got wheels that will remain round and true far longer than aluminium rims. It’s another thing you don’t have to worry about. Aluminium is soft as shite, hence all the dinged rims. Carbon isn’t.

Helvellyn on Friday:

Good call, Mytgic to the top of the list.

Bottle rocket might work, as might a covert. How different would the two bikes feel to each other do you think? Definitely can’t afford an Orange Blood!

I’ve no chance of a second hand Nicolai really, although there isn’t a strict budget I want to achieve my aim for a minimal outlay, so I can’t see a Nicolai working out.

Orange 5 is on the same list as Marin and Cannondale.

Pitch might be a good call. Covert was on the list anyway. I was aware of the issues with the Corsair, but I believe they were resolved with a different pulley thing. Mythic, maybe but a bit rare perhaps.

Is there any info on that bike at Rush Cylces that is accessible via the internet?

Cheers

I’m quite fussy too I should add, not a fan of Marin or Cannondale, it has to look good and they just don’t. Especially the Marin with it’s un-finished gussets.

Anyway, there isn’t really a budget, I can always save for longer if required, just after ideas at the moment. I ruled out the Corsair because not enough people have them for there to be any available second hand.

I was looking att he Specialized SX-Trail, but they’re similar travel to the Bullit aren’t they.

Headset-wise it is the Crank Brothers one, I’ve got one and it’s been doing it’s stuff no issues for 12 months now. Get the DH one, though looking at the designs, they’re all the same aren’t they? Anyway, the DH weighs **** all, so might as well get that one.

I had the same issue as you, put that headset in and went for a Pro FRS stem, which is pretty low, and ended up needing a spacer.

Looking at the forecast for The Lakes, it looks like that will be a better bet all round, especially as I know the area, so we’re more likely to get up some mountains.

Is it looking like getting in and out of Wales might be difficult with the weather?

Quote him? Why don’t you just let him know what the price is?

It’s just control systems that you’re talking about now. You could choose to have or not have that shift pattern, or you could choose it to beep at you to let you know that you’ve missed a gear out when you changed down.

The computer doesn’t know if the next gear will be up or down again, you could double tap a button after the beep to tell the computer that the next shift will be in the same direction as the last, and then it could do the front mech too for you. If you wanted. I’m sure there are better ways of doing it, but anything is possible.

I thought that while the system knows which gear it’s supposed to be in, it doesn’t know when the chain has moved exactly. I thought that it over-shifted slightly then snapped back. Like when your normal gears are a bit **** and you have to shift up twice and down once to get to the next gear.

I’m not sure you’d want to have the system do both mechs at once without warning you, but that would depend on how smooth the front shift is. You can get away with rear shifts at much higher power outputs than front shifts, so I’d want some warning that the gears were about to go a bit more mental than I expected.

I like the idea of being able to set a cadence and have the shifts keep you at that cadence, though it’s the sort of thing the UCI would ban.

To the chap that was “left cold” at the thought – did it really???

I wish they’d do a U-Turn Totem please!

Interested in something along this lines possibly, what else is there if we ignore the £400 budget? SX-Trail type things, what else is there?

Yeah, ok, so I need a dishing gauge type thing, which I can sort to get this right.

I still don’t understand why the self-centring feelers, which are centred are giving a problem though. Does the rim always sit exactly in the centre between the drop outs? It must,mustn’t it?

I’m borrowing it, but I didn’t think I needed a dishing gauge with the auto-centring feelers.

The hub is central in the stand, I’ve checked how it is inserted several times as that was the only way I could see it being wrong.

Just doesn’t make sense at all as I know the feelers are in the middle of the stand. :-(

Stand is brand new, never used by the way.

I don’t have a definitely true wheel I can try because mine are all a bit out.

I can’t see how the stand can be out, I’ve measured it everyway possible, and the feelers are in the middle of the stand. Yet the wheel is 4mm out.

Still confused, but at least I can check the dishing with the cups and coins.

The dishing is out by about 4mm.

Re the calibration, the feelers are exactly in the centre of the stand, I’ve measures this every way possible.

Am I right in thinking that the centre of the frame of the bike is in the centre between the dropouts? What I mean is that the jig matches the rear of the bike?

I’m not sure why it would make a difference what the hub spacing was if the rim should be exactly central between the dropouts?

I’m still at a loss as to why the wheel is correctly dished when in the stand one way round, but massively out when it’s the otherway around, with the feelers being in the centre of the wheel. Will try the french trick to measure the dish as the bike is downstairs…..

I don’t have anything to check the dishing with, but I can check that the feelers are centred in the stand, they are.

I’m mounting the wheel in exactly the same way, but alternating it between the two possible orientations. With the cassette to the left the rim is correctly dished, but with the cassette tot he right the wheel is out by 4-5mm.

If the wheel was incorrectly dished then it shouldn’t be right in either orientation, which leaves the feeler gauges being uncentred. But they aren’t.

So either I’m missing something or I’m confused?

I’ve checked the stand itself and the feelers do seem to be centred in the stand.

Fairly cheap way to get a spare/new battery too.

I guess once you’re making over a certain number it doesn’t matter if you have two very similar products from a cost point of view, but you might just sell more as soem peopel will think one looks better than the other.

Without looking at the range, it might be that there is more differentiation in the bars and they do two stems so you can match the stem to your bars of choice.

A friend was asking us to identify his new bike on another forum. I cheated. Cheers.

Yeah, that’s true, I don’t’ suffer from pedal bob on my Bullit and that’s designed for blating down stuff without pedalling. But regardless, the design is very good in terms of ride quality etc.

I have a bolt with the right diameter head that sorts this problem perfectly.

Fit self-extracting bolts would be my main recommendation thoguh.

More than most components a stem is a stem, subject obviously to geometry. I doubt you’ll see any difference in use between the two, so go with whichever looks the best, matches your bike etc. I have the FRS in white, it’s light and stiff and does what a stem does.

Barrow is brilliant! I would kill myself on it in the snow though I suspect!

It’s probable that your bike is built right, but that that section of outer cable that links the front triangle with the BB is slightly too short, so when you squish the suspension it is pulling itself out of it’s housing and allowing the inner cable to pull on the mech.

It’s an easy mistake to make because if you do a static setup and measure the cable as you would with other bits you’ll get tit too short. Look at the picture of the blue one above, it shows how much ‘extra’ outer cable you should have, it’s not a direct run between the two stops at all.

As for the design, I really rated mine, which was a 1999 XCR2000, it was a bit heavy, but for the £1000 I paid for it in 2000 it did a brilliant job and lasted a decade before it needed moving on. I’ve not ridden one of the modern ones, but would like to see if the design still makes as much sense as it did. For the sceptics; why do you think the design hasn’t changed in a decade?

I’ve had this on my old I-Drive – it was because I had put too short a length of outer cable on it. Probably you or your mate are equally as inept as I was that day?

The system is really good and completely under-rated.

Hope one is ugly as. On-One have one that’s pretty good, I’ve had no problems with mine. Cane Creek are another option as they do mix and match bits. Otherwise you might be able to find two discounted headsets in the CRC Sale and do it that way.

All tyres are pretty shite in mud. I’ve found both 2.2″ and 2.4″ RQs to be pretty much as good as anything else I’ve tried in the mud.

The snow looks like Whinlatter?

Where is this?

I too am in the camp of not really using a stand.

Changing a bottom bracket that’s tight? You need the bike on the ground to stop it trying to rotate the clamp head or flex the stand as you put the grunt in.

Indexing gears is fine on a stand, except that under load the indexing will be slightly different, so it’s not really any better than setting it up using the stops, getting one of the extreme gears set roughly right, then riding it around the car park.

Headset with the bike in a stand? Maybe I’ve experienced the wrong type of stand, but most stands don’t hold a bike well enough for this to work.