People use Road mechs with a Road cassette (typically 27 or 28 max sprocket).
You match the mech cage to the range of cassette and chainrings.

KMC make good, tough chains with a re-usable link.

Chain retention is a big issue, and unless you go 10-sp with a clutch mech (only MTB and not Road so far) you need to get advice on this.

PaulD

68mm shell needs a spacer each side at least, possibly 2 on the Drive Side.

Check the online fitting instructions.

PaulD

I have front crud catchers and home-made ‘neoguards’ on my MTBs and am very pleased. Little to go wrong and good value.

Crud rears have a mixed history….
Mark I was not detachable but worked well.
Mark II was detachable and rattled all the time unless glued in place.
Mark IIa seems to have fixed that issue.
All 3 leave broken debris in Swinley…..

PaulD

It should be OK with a 28 and I would try the 32T cassette to see if it will track the 28 and 32.

Remember the B-screw will need to be fully screwed-in on the derailleur to give you max clearance of the guide pulley.

PaulD

Then your new ISIS BB needs to fit the frame.
Some come as 68-73 so fit both, albeit with a spacer on the drive side when in a 68mm shell.

If you already have them, no problem.
If not, check whether you need 113 or 118mm axle for the new ISIS cranks.

PaulD

Very interesting video about making the rotor….but no mention of the specific brake pad.

Overall a solution for endurance car racing where steel brakes need changing 3-6 times in a 24-hour race and high-load aerospace requirements, but inappropriate for MTBs.

Very poor friction when cold and an unknown wear rate when soaked in abrasive slurry.

Expensive and very bling, but I will stick with XTR callipers and KCNC rotors.

‘Stans’ did an aluminium rotor and special pads…are they still available?

PaulD

You need to measure the shell on the frame and it will probably be 73 mm.
You need to measure the width of the old axle…typically 113 or 118mm or similar.

Assuming the cranks are Shimano, it will need to be a JIS (NOT ISO) square taper if not a shimano replacement.

CRC and Merlin do cheap Shimano UN55 replacements.

D-H does not mean anything to me.

PaulD

Get one of these, or similar from ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cycling-Bike-Bicycle-Rear-Derailleur-Chain-Stay-Guard-Gear-Aluminum-Protector-/300602357829?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item45fd4bf845

PaulD

9-sp chain on 10-sp rings will be fine.
10-sp chain on 9-sp cassette will be fine.

10-sp cassette needs 10-sp shifter and 10-sp chain to work properly.
10-sp chain has same internal sizing as 9-sp but thinner plates.

Some triple 10-sp chainsets may have different spacings and your front mech may need adjustment, but should be made to work as they only have the middle ring indexed….lower is limited by end-stop and large can be limited by end-stop. Suck it and see.

PaulD

Your (civil) claim is against the driver. It does not matter what the police do unless they decide your friend was to blame. The insurance settlement is not related to the police (in)action.
Contact the insurance company now if you wish to get it moving immediately.

PaulD

The crankset is Shimano Octalink and the BB link is Octalink too.

You match 68 or 73 to the BB shell on the frame.

In general, the shorter axle is for a double and the longer for a triple chainring set. Not a guarantee tho’.

It does depend on the chainline you need.

I would be tempted to get the shorter axle as I can ‘pad’ it out 2.5mm with an external BB spacer and not worry about it being a little offset in the frame.

PaulD

Beyond damaged property and loss of earnings, ‘damages’ are agreed from a reference book that all lawyers share that is based on severity and long-term consequences.

Get your friend to start keeping a very detailed diary of all expenses, trips and injuries as well as photos of injuries and damaged kit.
Show you are in control of the situation and are not a pushover.

PaulD

The insurance company will agree replacement value for bike and clothes over the phone and a small amount for pain and suffering. If you have more serious injuries, then they will want medical records and possibly examinations. They do not want to get as far as court because of the extra costs…and if they have already agreed liability it is only a matter of agreeing ‘damages’.

That is why I would engage a lawyer on a no-win-no-fee basis as they are guaranteed their costs….and that would include any costs for third-party expert examinations…it will cost you nothing.

My more serious incident 11 years ago took nearly 5 years to close.

PaulD

Last time this happened to me, the driver’s insurance wrote within 10 days offering full liability and wanted me to contact them to agree compensation.
The phone call ended after they offered £1k and they put me in touch with a mediation company. 8 months later we settled on £5k.

I will never use a mediator again…just get a rottweiller solicitor (specialist personal injuries lawyer, I know a few) and take them properly to the cleaners.

PaulD

I would just fit Shimano SP41 full-length with sealed ferrules and not bother with the oilers. Where I did this on solo bikes, it has lasted for years with no maintenance.

SP41 in 10m coils from Parkers, now in infinite/multiple/fluoro colour choices.

PaulD

Range is not the issue…a road mech can have a long cage and be good for 45T range.

What counts is the max sprocket it will work with, and this is probably rated as 28 or 30.

New SRAM road will do 32T.

Old Shimano road often did 30T easily, so I would try any (7-10sp) cassette with a 32T and see if it is OK (indexing across the whole cassette is not important to check this out). If so, buy a **-32 8-speed and ride.

PaulD

Check out Spa Cycles….Stornglight and TA Specialites are excellent alternatives at good prices…I bought a 46T 130mm BCD road ring last month for £14 + £4 p+p.

PaulD

Swinley Forest just south of Bracknell.

Park, pay and ride.

Firetracks and man-made armoured singletrack are all fine….unmade tracks are a bit squelchy tho’.

PaulD

Front double D-A mechs offer a 16T range on the 2 chainrings, but the triple front mechs have a deeper cage and cover 22T or more, so….

What is to stop you getting a 53T or larger front ring in 110mm BCD and retain the 34T compact small ring to get the best of both worlds?

If you keep swapping the large ring, you will need to keep moving the front mech up or down.

Fitting a 53T instead of 50T with the correct chain length will only be a rear mech chain slack issue if you try to run 34 x 11 (and we know where that got a famous TdF contender, don’t we?).

Then chose the appropriate cassette to the terrain/season.

PaulD

53:11 to 52:11 is under 2% reduction in gearing, resulting in less than 1mph difference where you spin out.

Problem?

PaulD

Nice bike and a super cabaret too!

Have you gone for an XT or Zee clutch mech?

Hope to ride with you soon.

Swinley was mostly OK yesterday and is drying out nicely for next week. Some logging has eliminated/shut some bits near the Labyrinth.

PaulD

Try Spa Cycles….they have an awesome range of chainrings.

PaulD

Fit 1x 2.5mm BB Cup Spacer on NDS and 2x on the DS of the external BB.
Wind the adjuster into the NDS crankarm and fit the axle.
Torque it as specified.
Take up the ‘slack’ by rotating the adjuster towards the BB.
Tighten the 2.5mm Allens carefully.
Fit pedals and ride.

PaulD

Back off the adjuster/limit screw a bit…you only have to prevent the shifter engaging its third position.
It can be difficult/impossible to prevent the chain rubbing the mech or even the bashguard on the smallest sprocket…just keep persevering a bit longer.

PaulD

Cage width and pull ratio are ‘speed’ specific.

PaulD

Read up on the Shimano mainsite for the range of each of your possible rear mechs. Range is difference between largest and smallest chainrings + difference between largest and smallest sprockets on cassette.
You need an MTB mech for largest sprocket over 28T.

Budget….remember Dura-Ace and XTR are best…the rest fall away in price to affordable.

Job done.

PaulD

Sorry for the delay…you are correct.

PaulD

Saint M810 GS has a 31 or 37 Teeth Range depending on whether you have the mode adapter removed or fitted.
The M810 SS has a 17 or 23 Range respectively.
Mode adapter is fitted if the cassette has a large sprocket of >28T.

This is probably the best 9-sp mech ever made…it can do MTB or Road and at only 250g is not massively heavy.
Excellent bearings and overall quality as well as a strong spring.

PaulD

I know it is a long shot…but Aldi sell off the unsold specials in a separate bin in each store…I did see gloves in the bin in Stockport 2 weeks after the last sale in mid October.

Failing that, just wait until it comes round again and then buy 3+ pairs as I did at Decathlon a few years ago for the >0C days.

PaulD

Here is the Shimano Tech Doc covering fitting the Saint M800 derailleur and rear hub;

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Saint/RD-M805-M800/SI-5VB0E-En_v1_m56577569830606709.pdf

Your link to the CRC offer specifies the mech bolts to the hub in the full description.

PaulD

That is because it bolts directly to the special Saint axle.

You need an M810(A) or newer 10-speed that fit a conventional hanger.

Sorry….

PaulD

Put a strip of rubber under the lamp and O-ring to stop it rotating.

It may even be the best (only?) use for a self-adhesive puncture patch!

PaulD

Send ’em back.

Get some Conti Attack + Force from bike-discount.de for £45 delivered…folding, lightweight, low-drag, grippy, relatively large (22+24mm) and easy to fit…job done.

PaulD

Edit: Curious case of a mysterious double-posting.

PaulD

Get some of the Aldi gloves as a benchmark.

I feel the cold badly too and found those Sealskinz are truly waterproof but not very warm. They are on the edge of acceptable for control when off-road. They are unacceptable to remove and refit on the trail…so much so that I have to carry a second pair of gloves in case of mechanical failure/puncture. They have to be dried after each ride with a cardboard tube insert in the airing cupboard or are impossible to get on next day.

For warmer (>0C) days I use Decathlon ‘-5C’ gloves….no way do they meet their printed claim but are OK for all the above needs if above freezing.

For the extreme cold I wear Army pile mitts inside the goretex outers…a bit like a sleeping bag inside a bivi…control of flat bars single speed on road is OK, offroad with shifters is a no-no.

PaulD

That Hope 32T at 33g looks to be the lightest 4-bolt I have seen.

Middleburn 38-40g
Shimano XT Composite 58-60g
Shimano LX Alloy 41g
Truvativ 36g
RaceFace 41g

5-Bolt Sugino at 34g and TA Specialites 41g

PaulD

One of these zip-tied on a helmet.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290778308356?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

PaulD

You need spikey tyres for grip in snow and steel/carbide studs for ice without exception.

Schwalbe do excellent snow/ice tyres at a price.
I have one and 3 home-made studded tyres.

Nokian do studded Hakkapellita (sp?) on the continent.
Friends use these in the Pyrenees for winter triathlons.

Continental also do studded models, but I have no opinion.

Also consider doing the screw-shoes thing to ensure you can walk about.

PaulD

Walton Street Cycles in Jericho gives a discount to STW cardholders.

I have occasionally bought stuff but not services from them over nearly 20 years.

PaulD

KMC Z610RB is for 3/32″ chainrings (typically 6-10 speed).

KMC also do a Rustbuster for 1/8th heavy-duty chainrings.

CRC do these but their site seems unresponsive at present.

PaulD