I had a Karoo 1 and now have a Karoo 2, I also use a Garmin Edge (and occasionally ride with both).

Positives
Map is clearer than the Edge, and Navigation of a loaded GPX file is easy – Just import to the dashboard and it will sync to the Karoo.
If you try and edit it, you can hit problems where Bridleways/Paths don’t quite join a road. The baseman for the Karoo though is based on OpenStreetMap, so the one thing you can do is edit the base map – Just get yourself an open street Map account and you can join/edit/add tracks that you find missing – takes a while for it to roll into the Hammerhead dashboard though.
You can side load apps, so you can have OSMaps loaded onto your Karoo.

Negatives
The big negative for me was raised above about the lack of training Data viewing available in the dashboard or on the Karoo, and the answer is always just use Strava.

So I tend to stick with my Garmin for the training side of things (I also have a Garmin watch that I run with, and the Garmin Ecosystem can combine my efforts across a watch and an edge), but if I am off on a ride I need to navigate then the Karoo comes along and I just use that for the maps (and as a backup for the edge)

If you only bought House B in May 2020 then you can claim it back, the fact that you had to pay the 2nd home rate meant that at that time House A was still classed as your main home, and you paid the 2nd home rate, you have three years from the date you bought your second home.

You will need to be wary though as if you moved out of House A, you may be liable for some Capital Gains Tax for the time you didn’t live there.

The solicitor who helped you buy House B should be able to submit the reclaim form on your behalf now you have sold House A (and if you used the same solicitor for both, that would be even easier)

Where is says last modified time and date, click on the drop down and you can get the version history for the file. Is it the same device you are using to edit today as you used last night – It may not have synced

If It’s like any of the National’s and National Champs that I have been to over the years, you won’t need a ticket, just turn up and watch.

Surely the definition of second hand is that you are the second owner, not how old something is.

Colins Dictionary agrees –

Second-hand things are not new and have been owned by someone else.

Just started making my starter to give Sourdough a try.

First question, with the starter, I expected it to be runnier than it is (it’s currently on day 2, and will get it’s day 3 feed later)

Does it get runnier later on the process?

Well it looks like bike-discount.de are now accepting UK orders again (if only they had what I needed in stock). For the last couple of weeks it wasn’t possible to put the UK in a a destination address, but it works again this morning.

the issue is probably that the mesh system is acting as a router (and probably giving out IP addresses to the wifi clients). The discovery protocol for the printer may be blocked by the router. Do you know what ip addresses the wifi and wired clients get? If this is the problem, you may be able to stop the mesh acting as a router and allow the plus net hub to be the router and hand out ip addresses, then the discovery should work.

At the top you said the PC was turning on, just no display from the HDMI port, so VNC would work (assuming there is an Internet connection to it), but in your last post you say it is not turning on (if all the fans etc are spinning then it sounds like it is booting up, and might be a display issue)

and you did install VNC so you can remotely fix to for him before you shipped it didn’t you?

Is he plugging the PC into the same HDMI port on the TV that he has used for something else (and that works when plugged into that port), or does he need to get the TV to switch to the new HMDI port that he is plugging the PC into?

I had my gait checked by both my Physio and the local running shop when I started (the running shop as I was buying some new shoes, the Physio when I was there for something else and told her I had started running), as most people have said and the Physio agreed – Most people are neutral runners, but if you are not you would probably already know as you will have likely picked up an injury running in your existing shoes. If the shoes are quite worn then look at the soles and google to see what your gait is.

The other advice was if you run off-road mostly (which is supposed to be better for your joints) then most people are fine with a neutral shoe (and most off-road shoes are neutral anyway).

I think shoes are like saddles though – you will have your own preference which might not suit anyone else. I find the Hoka shoes suit my feet and running and I like Pro-logo saddles, but neither of those might suit you.

A good running shop will let you try a few pairs on and run round the shop in them (the equivalent of the car park test for a bike), like other people, now I know the brand and size that suit I don’t always go to the running shop.

You will know you have the running bug bad when you start buying different shoes for different conditions (N+1 with shoes), sadly I now have a dry trails pair and a specific mud pair for the current trail conditions.

I would use something like the chart on this page https://www.wtb.com/pages/tire-rim-fit-chart as a starting point. Most tyre manufacturers have something similar on their pages, so if you know what tyres you want to run, I would start there.

And from the chart a 43mm tyre on a 30mm internal rim would work, but is not optimal…

Looks like the top jockey wheel might be too big, has someone fitted the wrong new jockey wheels, if the top wheel was too big then it would have that effect (and probably the same effect if the lower jockey wheel is too small)

I am a UK11 in all my shoes and trainers and I have 46 in Northwave shoes, my son who is a UK 10 has a 45 in Northwave Shoes, so I would stick with a 45

One question I have on wheel building (I have built 3 or 4 wheels and all going strong), is when you use the Nipple driver or other method so that each Nipple starts at the same position for truing, what do you do if you have had to compromise on the spoke lengths.

So for example, if the Spoke length calculator says I need 262mm and 273mm, but I can only get spokes in even lengths, so I go for 274mm spokes, do I need to somehow wind those nipples on 1mm further when I first start putting the spoke on.

I know you are only ever 1mm out on spoke length, so do folk bother – I did think of getting a second spoke driver and adjusting it (on the grinding wheel) so it was 1mm shorter.

<Yet you’ve literally just spent several paragraphs explaining how you (or someone else) can determine a phone’s position via Bluetooth…>

No, I have just spent several paragraph saying it can’t as the reference point (other people’s phones) are not in a know position

I have downloaded it as well.

Interesing that people think Bluetooth or BLE can detect your location.

With GPS your phone can detect where it is located (by triangulation of the signals it gets from several satellite’s that are always in the same position). You phone OS can then share that location with an App or upload it into the internet somewhere.

Bluetooth can also detect signals from other bluetooth devices and your phone can understand the signal strength (so likely distance). To use bluetooth for location awareness, you need an application that knows where each bluetooth beacon (or sender of the signal is), and then again your phone can triangulate your position – This is how indoor way finding works, and no matter what people claim anything sub 2m is very difficult.

The contact tracing apps don’t worry about triangulation, they just store the bluetooth ID’s of other phones you have been near, and based on signal strength and time it calculate’s when you have been near someone long enough for a potential transmission to occur. This is then stored for 2 weeks in case the other person tests positive, and it that case you are notified. So if you get notified it will be because of your proximity to someone who has subsequently tested positive, not where you were.

The UK app also has a check-in feature, that just allows you to skip the giving your name and contact details when you arrive at a venue.

And for the paranoid who won’t download the App because “someone” might know where you are and where you have been, the fact you have your phone with you means “someone” already knows this data – (think the mobile network, any public WiFi company you have signed up to, etc etc)

I would find a smart plug that works with If This Then That (IFTTT), you can then set IFTTT to turn on and of your smart plug depending on the local temperate.

I think the TP-LINK ones do, as do the Hive ones

I think you are really looking at two things.

1) Live tracking – For any live tracking you will need either a) your phone with you (and coverage) or a b) watch/Bike computer with a SIM card – or c) something like a SPOT tracker.

2) The data Geek collection of everything about your ride – For this if it’s a watch then Garmin/Suunto/Apple will all collect lot’s of data – Garmin and Suunto far more data than an Apple Watch (and will both work with either Android or Apple Phones)

If you are using 1) as a driver/excuse for 2) then I would go with a Garmin Smartwatch myself, I have used a Vivoactive 3HR, a Forerunner 245 and now a Fenix – all track well, and support live tracking along with more data than you need.

If the key priority is tracking then you can’t beat a SPOT tracker, as they are satellite based and work where there is no coverage – Used one of these for a while when my teenage son went through a period of feinting for no reason and still wanted to go ride by himself. That said if you have an iPhone then find my phone works well if you and your wife share locations, but does need cellular coverage.

Perhaps decide which way you want to go and then look for something second hand at first to make sure it is the way you want to go.

That doesn’t sound right to me, on all of my lights the charger goes red when I plug a light in. Do you know someone else locally who has an Exposure light that you could try a second charger with. I would also speak to thh folk at Exposure, the Customer Service is great.

Why not do one of the Training Plans on Zwift – You can select one based on the time you have and then it gives you different sessions to be done during the week.

If you want one for 10 weeks, give build me up a go – You need to do an FTP test first, but there are 2 or 3 options in Zwift to do that, once your FTP is set then the sessions are the appropriate level.

I did this twice last year for the winter months and it seemed to benefit me, occasionally you miss sessions out as life gets in the way, but overall I did feel fitter at the end (and my FTP increased)

from personal experience, be prepared for a long wait with the MIB, I am currently 3+ years in and still waiting for a final assessment and settlement. I “won” my case with them within 12 months, after that it has been visits to quite a few specialists, each appointment usually takes 2 or 3 months to come through. I have been told by the consultant who will write up the final proposal that 4 years is about normal…….

I have used them, goods arrived about 3 days after I ordered them I used Paypal to pay them just in case of issues, but everything turned up fine, would use them again

Someone asked about Gravel bikes in Sportives, I used mine (albeit with 28mm Road Tyres) for the Ride London, managed to keep up with all the other road bikes easily and completed in just over 5 hours.

Whilst I agree if I am going out for some single track riding I will take the Hardtail or Full Suspension, the beauty of the Gravel Bike is that I can start off on a road ride, and if I see a track or bridleway I fancy I can just head off down it – Couldn’t do that on the road bike, and wouldn’t head out on a road ride on the MTB.

I agree of I could only have 1 bike it would be the Gravel Bike, because it can do pretty much everything, is there a better bike for each different type of riding – yes there is, but then they are specific. Before I got my Gravel bike I did run the hardtail with rigging forks, did the Dirty Reiver twice like that and it was fine, but my hardtail runs a single ring, and more gears would have made the ride easier especially on the road sections, and more hand positions would hep as well.

Don’t think that a pure Cross Bike and Gravel bike are the same, they are not, as someone has said CX bikes have very different geometry and are designed for 1 hour max rides with fast handling, Gravel bike are more relaxed (and therefore stable).

I used to have this problem with my Lezyne pump, so upgraded the hose. Now I tend to unscrew the hose from the pump first and then the hose from the valve, so there’s no pressure and easy to keep the hose in straight line.

Don’t be put off by the comments on doing it, I did it this year for the first time, started around 7.30, and got round in 5hrs 13. Knowing the hills would get busy, I just jumped on some wheels heading through and out of London and the first 40 miles went past in under 2 hours, when we got to Leith Hill it was getting busy and saw a couple of people ride into the person in front as they suddenly stopped, but it was rideable when we got there, and the chap who lives halfway up was great and old everyone how much further to go. Box Hill was much easier than Leith Hill, and much wider. Not sure that Leith Hill is suitable for a ride with 25,000 people.

If I was entering again I would put down a very low target time (say 4:30) so that you get off in an early start wave, and then head down to Leith Hill, and once up that you are fine – and if you start early enough, you won’t hit the back of the 46 mile riders towards the end.

+1 for the Endura Pakajak, all of our family have one, fit easily into a jersey pocket if the weather doesn’t look great or might turn cold

I had one a few years back from new (a 2002 one).  I changed the oil at 5,000 miles between services (and always used synthetic oil), it had 130K on it when it was written off, and never burnt any oil or missed a beat.

The “standard” car had a great engine that was strangled somewhat by the dual cat exhaust, got rid of one of my cats and that made quite a difference.

Loved driving it, but it would bite like an old Porsche 911 -i.e. one minute it’s all fine and dandy, the next you are going backwards.

I drove it to the Alps once, and went up the mountain (with winter tyres on) – The only thing that passed me was another Impreza that had the narrow Rally snow tyres on, everyone else had to stop and put chains on…..

Happy days, but I think now you should think of them as a classic car, so not expect top performance, modern engines have moved on a lot since the boxer, but I still love the sound

I use MyScript Nebo.  Write all my notes in that and then use it to convert it all to text, once that is done you can just export all to OneNote, allows me to take notes easily with the Pencil, then share them across the iPad, a Mac and a PC

No mention of a £5 voucher on the email I got.

It will depend on what you want in the garage.  Do you want a single device connected (and is that wired or wireless), or do you want to connect multiple devices?

If it’s a single device then power line might work, you need to connect both ends to the same mains circuit for the best performance, and they tend to be a bit hit and miss.  I would get them from somewhere you can return them if they don’t work, or borrow some and try them.

You can get Wifi Extenders that pick up and then repeat the wireless signal, how good that would be might depend on where the current Wifi point is in the house, and using that full-time may well drop the wireless performance in the rest of your house (as it might connect at a low speed and pull the rest of your connections down to that speed)

If you want to connect multiple wireless devices in the garage then you will need another access point in the garage you can get these as wireline, Wifi extenders or that just connect via ethernet.

The best option would be to run an Ethernet cable to the garage.

PM me if you want to take the conversation further

I can’t comment on CTC, but I was less than impressed with the BC legal insurance (I am a Gold member of BC).  In my case the driver didn’t stop so BC told me if I couldn’t trace the driver then there was nothing I could do.

Fortunately a friend of mine is a solicitor, and she has since taken on my case, anyone hit by an uninsured or untraceable driver can claim for injuries from the Motorists Insurance Bureau, it has taken two years so far and the claim is still ongoing.  The MiB rejected the initial claim, we appealed and won the case at appeal, still going through assessment now, with multiple Consultant/Scans planned.  Last consultant I met said to expect the process to last 4 years…….

If you want the name of the solicitor I am using, then PM me and I’ll let you know her details, I know she has done a few Cycle personal injury claims (and she and her husband or both cyclists)

Mantel in the Netherlands are quite good a quick as well.  Also Evans seems to have lot’s more in stock, and are no longer as expensive as they used to be (advantage with Evans is if you pass a shop regularly you can have your order delivered there and collect it – Use this a lot as their is one between Kings Cross and St Pancras station)

The Gore is the Alp-x Jersey http://www.wiggle.co.uk/gore-bike-wear-alp-x-pro-windstopper-softshell-zip-off-jersey-blu/

It’s not cheap but if you search around you can often find it in a sale somewhere.  I used it for a commute, you can out a base layer underneath for cool mornings, and then just use the jersey with short sleeves on the way home.  Big pockets and the nelson pocket are great for commuting as well

Really enjoying my Reilly Gradient, I went with Frame and Forks an built it up myself, that way you can get a build you want within your budget.

Mark was great to deal with and quick to sort out the issue I had with my frame (it arrived with braze on for cables and I was going with Di2, 48 hours later is was back without braze on’s and drilled for Di2)…..

I think you are getting confused here between a benefit in kind and a capital gain.

When you buy the shares, the discount you receive is a benefit in kind, as as such is taxed under PAYE.

Once you have purchased the shares, then any further gain is subject to a capital gain.  So in your example, you pay $85 per share on a share worth $120, so the Benefit is $35 (as you know).  If you hold the share for another 6 months and it goes up to $150 per share, then your gain is $30 per share (as the gain is only against the value of the share when you acquired it, as you have paid tax on the difference).

Regarding getting the money home, most of the large US Brokers will send you a cheque in GBP (and most issue it forms their UK bank accounts, so it’s just like any other UK cheque).  Once you sell the shares there is a 5 day settlement period (so you get your cash after 5 days), then it usually take 2 or 3 days more to get the cheque (and another week for the cheque to clear to your account)

I’ve been in US Company share schemes for the last 20 years, so any questions feel free to drop me a message.

I used i the other week on something that was price matched on their website, so not quite in the sale.  It was for a GoPro, so slightly bike related (and I had to collect it from the bike counter.

Sorry missed your post back to me, I just bought some washers off eBay – like these Ebay Link

I think I got the M16 ones, which the chart shows as 3mm thick

That’s interesting, I’ve got the issue on the non disc side. Disc side has clearance and disc sits in the right place.

Now you made me think which side I put the spacer in, I know I added one as without it something just rubbed on the fork, having been out and checked it is the non-disc side I put the spacer in, and not the disc side.

The wheels run fine in all my other forks, and my Hope wheels run fine in the Niner forks.