Yes I am.

Hey Funky,
Medical qualified member here- infact currently developing a website for cycling health related topics as some advice on here and other forums, is mixed to say the least- like the advice to drink 5 litres of cherry juice a day to prevent gout!! Some pretty solid advice from gboarder though.
Pneumonia that follows flu is usually caused by different bacteria than if you have it as the initial infection, hence it would surprise me if the initial antibiotics were ineffective. With pneumonia, rather than bronchitis, the infection is not sat in the airways of the lungs but the flesh of the lung with is similar to a cellulose sponge in consistency.
Your main issue will be the time of year- although the forcast is good for the next week- the cold air. I personally would set up the turbo, doing 5-10 mins max at a gentle pace, when you start to feel upto it, and avoid cold outside riding for the next 4 weeks- your lungs will just hate the irritation and drying affect the cold air will have on their surface. The reason we give of water vapour from our breath, most obvious when cold, is the body’s efforts to humidify the air we breath.
Don’t try anything too hard too soon as often post viral/illness fatigue problems start after doing such things. Your body needs time to regain fitness.

I had the opposite of a discount from Dave Hinde- I ordered two sets of tyres and they sent me one set, charging me for two sets. Previously they took 12 weeks to send me a wheel, charged me above their advertised prices for other parts, and told me several lies about other orders. The cucumber probably feels better.

agree with all the above- great but wear far faster than 4 seasons which after 2000 miles on mine look like new.

Ive got a lemond and its easy to stand up and stomp, by far the most realistic feel of a resistance trainer. If its sprint traing def recommended as the noise isn’t as bad as people make out.
Very expensive for what they are though and the two i’ve had have both come with a slightly buckled flywheel- i sent one back because of it but as it works fine I cant be bothered with this one. Not the best quality control!

Thanks guys- the bearing issue is one I’d heard of, but as you say, price difference is large esp with the offers at the moment

Am i missing something or would anybody owning it essentially be admitting to owning/handling stolen goods and be liable to prosecution?!
I love 4 bar turners so I know why your missing it- thought about a used model off ebay?

If you didn’t do so well but have a masters degree I wouldn’t bother.

Sorry- air pressure was too low so they were sagging with the bike weight. They are 140mm and work perfectly- just been for a quick off road spin. What price given these are fine?

Thanks mate, but I’m looking for a xc machine that can turn its hand to occasional racing- hence i would consider a mark 2 burner, but not a rfx.

Mikey, the spacers are £3.50 off ebay, search ‘fox spacer’

Thanks guys, any other good companies to use?

yes, I think must be a typo, as the nitrous was the out and out race bike from that generation I seem to remember

an article in one of the bike mags a few years back- possibly as long ago as 2005- suggested 21-23lbs.

According to the turner catalogue the 2005MY has 3 inches, and the nitrous 2005MY 4, was this a printing error?

I would give the range of shocks you have a try and see what suits your usual routes/style best. The 5 spot is so versatile i don’t think you’ll find any of them bad. Although I am in a minority here, I think that having gone from a pushed rp2 to standard rp3, the non pushed shock worked far better for my riding.

thanks, tak, is your frame painting chap in burton on trent, incase you dont see my question in the other post?

is that burton on trent?

brilliants, thanks guys- if in areas its looking rather tired/discoloured I presume the anodising coat had deteriorated?

are the rear ends just polished aluminium and not plated? (sorry for my complete ignorance. I has always thought the ‘polished’ end was an effect caused by plating) if so I have polishing mops, compounds and a top end makita drill so that will save some money if that’s the case.

You ate ratatoille as a child

best bet would be a brand line Teng, their 5-25nm TW is about 35 quid on ebay, in 3/8 drive (the most suited to bikes and most useful hex sockets to have). The bike specific ones are a rip off, far better to go with a brand that have good reputation in the automotive industry. Most of my tools are snap on, as I do a lot of work on cars so they pay for themselves in saved labour, but their torque wrenches are a rip off so have Halfords professional and Teng which I have found superb. a torque wrench staring at 8mm is not suitable for bikes; most bolts should be at 5nm.

Thanks Paul. 9 speed works so well, I agree its hard to justify if your kits in good nick. I have already invested in some new shimano saint brakes, and top end ust tyres this week. I’ve also made a 15mm qr adaptor with a hope adaptor and a lathe for my crossmax xls so future fork upgrades are easy and cost effective. Probably better investment to upgrade the fork for increased stiffness esp with the saint brakes.

Thanks, my stuff is in vgc, although I suppose that gives it very good resale value. Prices of the new xtr are rather steep though. 2 years ago my xtr chainset was 200 quid now they are 320.

I was having this discussion with LBS today- a few of the OEM forks were actually 130mm and not spaced in this generation but as others say take them apart and you’ll have your answer

that’s great thanks- did you notice a worthwhile difference in stiffness?

‘sorry that should read ‘than the normal uk way, front brake right hand lever

Thanks everyone, some good tips there. I will investigate professional options, esp if not too dear, as i only want a plain colour, with decals I have bought and then a top lacquer to make it shiny. DIY sounds like it would keep me out of trouble for many hours though, the mrs will be delighted.

not sure how easy removing the headshok parts from the fork is hence was going to mask off carefully- the headset is rough so that will be removed, hence main frame could be dipped etc.

It has headshok road forks aswell (its a cannondale road headshok bike)- was concerned about avoiding damage to headshok parts hence me doing it and being careful. No one looks after their own stuff like yourself!

its a 2003 f1000 that has magura hydraulic brakes, not cable. Very suspect.

Ron,
Great bike, super light, and as comfortable as a hardtail gets. It does however feels slightly dead at the rear end as it absorbs so much vibration, unlike the springy feel of titanium, due to the natural feel of carbon and the way the special seatpost works. For the type of event you intent to use it for though I would see this as a huge advantage.

Bushes, suspension or roll bar, are rubber bits that cushion the joints in a car’s suspension and steering. Signs of wear include metal on metal banging over bumps, sloppy handling, uneven tyre wear etc. Imagine the bushes/bearings on the rear suspension of you mtb all being shot and the unwanted movement you would get, add 1300 kg + and you get the idea. the garages would have noted worn bushings on the suspension unless they were really crap- like most main dealers!

If you go for the top end BG pro shoes, ask the shop to swap the insoles to the ones appropriate for the arch of your foot (they will have a heat sensitive pad for measuring this). The pro models come with the red ones as standard, but a good shop should let you swap, as they cant be ordered with the shoes. Leisure Lakes in Notts swapped them for free for me to blue, and also gave me VIP discount. although the cheeper models come with a BG insole, it is not exactly the same as the aftermarket ones, so swapping not really possible.

Sidi's have the best uppers, they are absolutely lovely. The best soles and insoles in my opinion are Specialised though, and its best fit for your feet that gives extra performance. I race on the road quite seriosly and swapping from Sidi to Specialied gave me more of a performance gain than anything else i have done, as my feet move around in the shoe far less, and they are far stiffer. I would be weighed more by this (the fit for your feet) than anything else. The other thing about Specialised is that they are easier to walk in than the other race type shoes I have tried, worth bearing in mind for trail riding.

Thanks guys, won't get anything else.
I have 200mm front and 160mm rear hope floating rotors (can always sell these on if it doesn't work well with hope's although others users suggest they seem to have been ok). The front fork is a post mount, rear IS. What adaptors if any do i need to purchase?

I agree with PikeBN14, best bet is physio to demonstrate specific stretching exercises, which will encourage healing and prevention of re-injury. Don't let anyone inject it, it would improve rapidly over 2 weeks, but all the evidence is that long term likely to be more troublesome.
Golfers elbow is pain in the medial (meaning nearer the inside of you body) epicodoyle (sticky out bit) of the humerous (upper arm bone), tennis elbow the lateral epicondoyle (side facing away from the body).
Ergo grips wont do any harm at all, try the Ergon range or similar.

Hadnt really considered shimano but hear they are good, and most importantly dead quiet even when wet of accidentally sprayed with GT85- what are the XTR ones like? Merlin selling them for 229 at the moment.

Was this bought new? Worth asking the manufacturer if so, you never know.
If no joy you could ask someone like argos cycles if they can replace the tube and respray. If selling just put it on ebay or similar and be honest- a dubious repair will just devalue it.

Cat C is technically a structural write off, Cat D is financial.
If you repair a CAT C car it has to be insepcted by VOSA (basically the MOT standards agency), to make sure it has been done to a high standard, and is structually safe (ie not cut and shut). CAT D cars don't as they were written off for financial reasons.
Unless the price was an absoltute giveaway, and you can see the Vosa report, walk away- it will be very difficult to sell on.
If it was a dealer, under the trade descriptions act I believe you would be entitled to your full deposit back.