The normal white 2000mah Eneloops. Get the pros (2500mah) if you want but they wont last as long and cost more.

They lost all uktv channels – Drama, Really, Yesterday, Home, Gold, W, Alibi, Dave, Eden and Good Food.

You can blame the BBC/Discovery.

As above that 5.99 is just for an adaptor. The airshot in that listing is 49.89

Me too.

He’s done a 3 mile swim today too. He a freakin monster!

You just need an i-spec B shifter and this bolt/nut thing – http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-i-spec-b-bolt-nut-unit/rp-prod141531

In fact you only need the bit in the bottom pic.

I just did this same as you, got a 34t n/w ring and the 11-46 sunrace cassette, med cage xt mech. I had to mount the ring on the inside of the spider and also add a small spacer to get near the best chainline.

Done. Not much but I hope it all helps a little.

Amazed she just stood there while the nasty old charlatan assaulted her baby..

Waste of time and resources. Is there really nothing more important to campaign about?

Damn, only on the sky blue/orange ones :(

Yeh, scraggly bearded dropout

Unless someone put poison in your pond I wouldn’t count out the electrocution suggestion. Very odd that everything should die so quick. Goldfish can live in a muddy puddle. Tadpoles and water insects also being dead suggests something serious.

Is your pump on an rcd? If not, get one. You can get plug in ones – https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-rcd-adaptor/63731?tc=AB6&ds_kid=92700019905977485&ds_rl=1248181&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI15jJ3qy72wIVb7vtCh3PNAdsEAQYASABEgK2MfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIiHuPusu9sCFQQh0wodm4kPzw

Be very careful around the water until you figure it out.

Anything else electrical near the water? Air pump etc?

Have you been using weedkiller anywhere near it? Weedkiller is very toxic to fish.

^^^ I want a desk weasel :D

British run indeed. That’s my brother and his Mrs shop. In Bubion.  They have bikes for hire.​info@alpujarrabikes.com if you want to enquire.

Just rain here. I’ve been robbed!

Replace with similar fan with humidistat? Not sure the level of humidity they need to trigger though.

Cool, another one to the fold. How did it go?

Awaiting benchy..

Actually first showing 2am tonight… in 8 minutes :)

3/4 yr old, at Nursery drinking those small bottles of milk and huge chocolate digestive biscuits (the ones in the foil wrapper) Also the toy cupboard and sitting in a circle being read to.

1976/7 !

£8K !!!! Jeeeeeeeeeeesus.

Haha, yeh i’m not into vases either really. Next up will be the Terminator T-800 head in vertigo galaxy filament hopefully. The front fan started making some funny noises during the last print. Everything’s tight so could be on its way out already :(

I was gobsmacked tbh. It’s a bit thin being only 1 perimeter thick but not too bad. I did first layer at 20mm/s then 50 for the rest. It did seem to be slower on the first layer this time.

No issues as such. Set infill to 0 but it possibly ignores infill when using spiralize outer anyway. You have to start with a solid model stl, then choose spiralize, then look at it in layer view to see what it will look like.

I got the leveling pretty good on this one, bottom is perfect. Did 4 bottom layers and printed at 0.2.

Just noticed wall thickness set to 0.8. Not sure if it ignored that or not. It was set to 0.8/wall line count 2 before choosing spiralize which then changed the wall line count to 1. I think the wall is 0.4mm thick so it probably ignores the wall thickness when using spiralize. (need some new digital calipers).

Just tried vase mode first print:

After changing accel/jerk settings mentioned before, cura was 3 mins off on a 3.5hour print.

Printed in the geat vertigo grey from filamentum.

Thanks Alex. My initial layer speed is 50% of print speed in cura. It does still seem to print the first layer quite fast so maybe its not working like you say. Do you just wind it down with the knob on the control box? May have to experiment.

https://youtu.be/DHxSrzq9l94

Alex, yes, still after this info. Been busy this week so haven’t been playing with it anyway. Cheers.

Was messing around with vase mode in Cura last night and accidentally changed some settings on my normal profile.

Could one of you with cr-10/cura let me know your basic settings for:

1. Combing mode (in Travel section) – cant remember if I had it off, all, or no skin. I hadn’t changed it before, I think it was set to all.

2. Retract at layer change (in material section) ticked or not? It’s not ticked at the moment and I think that is how it was..

You might need to enable them if you cant see them.

Just want to make sure as I was happy with the setup.

Also I’ve set my acceleration/jerk settings in cura to 500/8 for print, 1000/15 for travel. Closer to the overriding stock firmware settings. Now cura time estimates are much closer to actual. First few prints after have been fine.

Thanks for any assistance.

RG12 7QW is the car park.

Aww man. He was given a life expectancy of 2 years at 22. It’s like he was meant to stay a long time to impart his knowledge.

Amazing.

Yep. Using a Sunrace 11-46 with an XT GS (med cage) mech no probs.

It’s not like the demise of the high street hasn’t been clearly identified years ago. Yet still the business rates that local councils charge for such locations are stupidly high. They need to drop these massively for any chance of shops to stay.

Oh and I saw the info about power supply output voltage. Someone upped theirs to make their bed heat up quicker..

Interesting. My temps were fine I thought when printing the first few things, then seemed to do what you describe bouncing around a bit. The vid of the cap issue being sorted shows it moving around a few degrees before the fix and after the fix it didn’t move more than about 1c…

Last time I looked they hadn’t released a new working board and the ones being sent out (2.1?)had the same problem.

Talk was of them using a chinese LMP2596 chip in some boards instead of decent jap one etc  which was the reason the voltage ripple was there in the first place which then needed addressing with bigger cap. The ones with a decent chip, even though they had an underspecced cap, had less ripple and therefore the new cap wasn’t needed.

Interested to see which board you have in your control box. I really need to check mine too.

Let us know what you find.

Obviously this may not be the prob at all mind you.

Like you, if I decide to change it, I will probably take to tv repair shop, even though i’m pretty handy at soldering. Can’t see them charging much and they are used to fitting smd components.

Maplins demise has been on the wall for a while now. Mostly they seemed to stock cheap chinese tat at 4x the price and were always out of stock of whatever you wanted and their stores almost always  empty of customers.

They were handy for the odd 50p resistor etc but not much else.

Can’t believe they have lasted as long as they have.

Any of you cr-10 owners seen this whole debate? – https://www.th3dstudio.com/creality-cr-10s-v2-0-and-creality-cr-10-v1-1-2-board-issues/

and – http://jozerworx.com/?p=260

My cr-10 mini seems to be displaying this behavior. Can flit 3-5C on the nozzle sometimes and after cooling down on my last print, bed at room temp was flitting up to about 8C.

Big discussion about it on the facebook group.

Also, I could do with some kind of cover to throw over the whole thing to keep dust etc off it when not using it. Why isn’t there one..

V3 looking good WCA :)
3D design seems to be bloody annoying lol. I spent hours the other night designing a door handle for the freezer. Scrapped it in the end… More practice required.

Stumpy, I’ve now decided against the squash ball feet. Seems to make the whole rig shake a lot more from what I’ve read. Make sure you get the least bouncy squash balls you can get – triple yellow spot.. Let us know what you think.

Milkie, so what does the OctoPi bring to the table? I keep seeing it mentioned but haven’t looked into it yet.

Keep it coming WCA, we are all learning from each other! Why are you using petg over pla?
I was going to print the other three wheels tonight but feeling a bit nauseous for some reason and can’t be bothered. Will do them tomorrow hopefully.

An actual use for it WCA :)

I got some new filament in and started printing the big bed leveling knobs for cr-10 that everyone loves. First one on top, notice anything wrong? Looks like the leaning tower of Pisa…

A quick google on leaning brought up mention of belt slippage. Had a look at the X axis motor and found the grub screws were loose.. hmm it’s got to be this I thought. After tightening them I printed again and it was perfect (bottom one) phew!

Unlike my benchy though, this was a bugger to get off the bed.

Stumpy, these are well worth printing. Make adjusting bed so much easier. – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2408748