Another vote for Salem’s Lot. The only old horror that actually scared me when I was a kid.

Pretty wet there last night. Most of the trail is ~ok, some boggy fire roads, hard work.

Belt sander does the job in 30 seconds if you have one..

Night ride around Swinley red yeterday…

[/URL]

[/URL]

DRAIN cleaner. 50/50 with hot water, submerse for few minutes and watch it foam up. Rinse and the colour will be gone leaving bare aluminium finish.

Eneloops.

You’ll need some new kit to go with that..

Also, tmb467 “The six full complement ones for main pivot and bottom bracket pivot cost about 4 quid each. and the other cheaper ones for the seat stay link and Horst link were about 3 quid each”

Interesting, they list the full complement at 4 quid but the enduro max at 6 quid so you did well there.. Cant find one of mine in the full complement list either hmm. Anyway, looks like full complement are the way to go, cheers.

Thanks chaps. Interesting discussion, i’m still not sure lol.

Thanks for reply. I got it off now. The high volume bit has a circlip at the bottom, after removing this the high volume bit slides off leaving the main aircan which can now be unscrewed. Its only like this on the high volume version and almost none of the youtube vids show this bit.

Thanks, hopefully it will be ok then. I guess I can return it if not happy.

Yep the foam ring is replaced with new seal which goes on the opposite way to the top seal.

Never done it myself. Here’s possibly how you get it out, different fork though – http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/damper_oil_remove.htm

I’m sure someone who knows will pipe up..
Actually, here is the exact procedure from fox for the 36 Van R and RC2 fork. Damper info near the bottom. – Van R – http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/36VAN/36VAN_R.htm

RC2 – http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/36VAN/36VAN_RC2.htm

Oil bath is the legs, so 25cc in each leg from the bottom. The 100cc is for the internal damper and shouldn’t need altering. If you put 100cc in the leg, take it out.

Flue should be 300mm from that roof. Check here – Flue distances I think “I” from the chart.

As mentioned i would watch out for snow in winter. Looks great though, wish I had a man cave :(

You do know the left pedal has a reverse thread right? Someone had to ask..

I’m pretty sure failing to stop is a criminal offence. It carries a punishment of up to 6 months in prison.

I’ve been round that roundabout twice today, live just up the road. FPH and that roundabout are chaos at peak times. I was sound asleep at that time however.

I will keep a lookout for that car, if I see it I’ll take a pic of any damage on it.. Amazing how people knock someone off their bike with a car and then just ***k off.

Thanks, yes seen a few on ebay. The 2013/2014 thing sounds about right. I forgot the 2013 fox shocks are ctd etc now but can’t see any of them either! Not in a hurry, will check again in a month or so, see what the 2014 models are going to be.

Thanks for replies. So a dual ply on the front is overkill, heavy, draggy, noted.
Any suggestions for XC tyres? Its not always muddy but you know the UK weather..
Would High roller single ply offer more grip than the Kenda Nevegals? I just tend to notice the front end losing grip when cornering at speed, nearly put me into the trees a few times.. maybe im just going too fast lol but ive read the nevegals arn’t all that and was hoping a better tyre would offer a little more grip.

I have ridden in spain, (brother is a guide for switchbacks, although is out atm with a shattered ankle, ouch) It is crazy rocky out there and i can see needs a much tougher tyre.

I dont get any pinch flats but get a shedload of small thorns causing punctures, damn brambles. Thinking about tubeless at some point in the future.