That's kind of what I wondered – the picture certainly looks like it can take a boss for a brake pivot. They'd be for the missuses bike so I think they're quite suitable.

Get a pair of forks for £44, then pay another £18 (from CRC) for the bosses – something seems a little perverse about that!!

Nope, click the Q&A on the product description;

Doh! RTFM!

Thanks!

Go for the Yeti. Just be aware that they're not all 4WD models, there are 2WDs in the range too.

If you fancy a go in one of them and a great fun day out, they've got a load of them HERE[/url] that are fitted with 50mm paintball cannons (yes, 50mm – that's a ping pong ball sized round) that you drive around and shoot at each other.

Did this last year for a mate's stag, thoroughly recommended day out.

Truly excellent.

I just had the pleasure of paying £405 for my road tax

Holy cow – I just paid that in total for both my 12yr old Volvo AND the wife's 4×4!

3m42s 34yr male who's eaten too many pies.

I'm a certified freediver though, so I guess i have a bit of an advantage!

Good skills, but he does need a belt on those trousers.

I've got one of these[/url]. Bombproof, solar powered, world time, stopwatch and atomic accuracy.

Hmmm. If you set the first boot device to CD-ROM then it should work fine.

What you could try doing is pressing F12 a few times as soon as the machine starts to boot up, (depending on the make of the laptop) this can prompt you to chose the boot device and then you can select the CD from the list.

If you get to this point, or the BIOS setting works as expected and it still doesn't work then I'm out of ideas. If the CD wasn't bootable, then I would expect an error saying that the device isn't bootable, rather than just returning to the menu…

Can you confirm that the CD drive you are using is an internal one, or is it connected via USB or something?

In the BIOS, for each boot device sequence what options does it give you, obviously CD/DVD is one, but what are the others?

When it works properly you should get an Unbuntu menu giving you the options to Run Ubuntu from the CD, Install Ubuntu, and some other options

and coming up as 'Ubuntu' and the installer from within XP

This is your problem – the PC is booting up into the existing Windows OS on the HDD. If this is happening, then because Windows is running on the HDD you're unable to wipe the HDD and install the new OS.

If Windoze is having something to say about things then you must be running the CD from within Windows. You need to boot directly from the Ubuntu Live-CD (change BIOS boot order if necessary). You can then access the Partition Editor and remove all the existing partitions on the HDD and create a fresh install of Ubuntu, creating the new partition (EXT3) that Ubuntu prefers rather than using existing Windoze NTFS ones.

Great stuff – what's the music track?

Personally I prefer the chest-mount footage as you feel more immersed by seeing the handlebar action. Is it possible to point the camera further upwards when on the chest mount to capture a bit more of the trail?

I disagree. The way that the torque-release mechanism works you don't put any additional strain on the spring/calibration mechanism by over torquing once the wrench has "clicked" at the specified torque all you do is risk stripping the threads of whatever you're torquing, it's more important that you back the torque setting right off when you store.

careful scruff you may meet 'Super Thorn'

I particularly like the use of the word "cokbobbins" in that cartoon – I think I may have to start adopring that as a curse!

Aha! Found it!

Called a 3/8" Push Through Coupler.

There's one or 2 ratchet wrenches that still use this technique for reversing the ratchet operation so managed to find this (lose-able) item as a spare part.

Rotating weight.

I read the conditions as follows:

1. A standard bag is max 20kg over this excess charges apply
2. The £18.50 is a generic fee for an additional "bag" of sporting equipment
3. Each single item (standard or equipment) cannot be heavier than 32kg (whether you've had to pay excesses or not)
4. The 32kg total limit is for your checked bag PLUS any equipment…except
5. If your sporting equipment is a bike then the 32kg total doesn't apply. but the 32kg individual bag limit does.
6. The 50kg limit is a total upper limit for one passenger whatever combination of bags/equipment they carry, meaning that with a bike at 32kg you can only check a normal bag of 18kg

The sublimation of ice into vapour is how they freeze-dry food.

So what tyres are needed for riding on Ice-5 then? ;o)

This got me thinking whether frame manufacturers design their suspension linkages for a particular shock type?

If air has non linear spring rate through it's travel then the linkage can be designed to vary the rate of shock compression through the travel to give a consistent apparent spring-rate of the wheel travel (eg the linkage compresses the shock more at the start and less at the end of the travel) – if you put a linear spring-rate coil onto this linkage the suspension would feel comparatively softer in the latter stages of travel. The inverse would apply if fitting an air-shock to a coil-designed linkage.

Perhaps that's why fitting a coil spring to an air-designed linkage feels so smooth, it's because the travel is a lot softer in the latter stages?

Oh, and the pedal-bob correction (pro-pedal etc) is all related to the damping rather than the spring so I can't see how fitting a coil instead of an air shock will change that.

another vote for the classic Lego advert.

Nice to see them promoting the creativity side of Lego again instead of focusing on it's primary "model making" capability.

Were they called "RoughRiders"? I had one of them I loved the switchable high-speed 2WD, low speed 4WD option and customisable gear knobs"

Personal favourite was Lego, particularly Technic stuff. Lego's really gone downhill in my opinion these days though, there's so many function-specific parts I think that some of the engineering creativity has been lost.

No ideas about the wheels, but the £60 set has the greatest reduction from RRP and a more traditional lacing pattern, so I would go for those if everything else is as required.

For really cheap I'd go with a Suzuki SJ413. Me and a mate drove one of these across the desert in Australia – they're mechanically very agricultural and easliy serviceable. For a bit more cash maybe look at a Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin – we've got one of these, it's a proper little 4WD with hi/low ratios and central diff lock.

Seems to have stopped now for the time being where I am, a few miles out to the east… Have got about 3 inches I suppose – not sure if I'll be making it to Haldon this evening?! :o(

Looking at that second photo, the scratch does indeed just extend onto the NS panel. I don't see why the light cluster would need replacing as mentioned in the quote though as the scratch doesn't look like it went near that.

slower speed corners or technical climbs when the bars are going left and right a lot?

Exackery! The higher the speed the less noticable the 3rd light would be.

If she's communicating these quotes to the guy then surely there's a certain amount of amicability between the 2 parties, can't they just discuss the options and try to get across that the price for the repair is unreasonable?

I would imagine that the quote from the repairers is a based on their assumption that this is an insurance job and that everything possible can (whether rightly or wrongly) be claimed for – they do tend to be very thorough

So if I understand it, you boil up the chain in the lube so that the wax permeates right into the rollers. I like the sound of that to be honest, filling chain roller voids with wax would stop mud/sand/cack from getting in there instead.

Do you need to clean your chain before doing this? If so, how thoroughly and if not, doesn't all the mud and crud just end up in the tin with the wax?

Thanks!

Yes please!

padowan(dot)si(at)gmail(dot)com

Fanx!

Got a SkyHigh sleeping bag, Gourdon dry-rucksack, drybags, Jeanius waterproof jeans all of it excellent quality and an absolute bargain. Would recommend them to anyone.

Don't you mean "What's the point of the beer that they sell in 330ml bottles?"

Stop drinking lager and get onto real ale, you can't get that in 330ml bottles. Problem solved!

Thanks ooOOoo, that's a good thread for reference, certainly doesn't look like rocket science.

LOL@ Kaesae

I had a look online and couldn't find any service manuals (like I have found from SRAM for the forks), the only thing I could find from Trek was a muppet/user guide.

The thing is, the guy who held up the family at knife point HASN'T got away scott free, he took a serious beating. If you factor in the vigilante justice as part of the sentencing then it's easier to see why the judge wouldn't pass a further sentence.

However the guy who dished out the beating did it of his own free will, admittedly provoked, but still, beating someone up is against the law and should be punished.

That's how I think the law works (or has done in this instance). The fact that I'm also firmly in the camp of burglars/intruders leaving their human rights at the door when they break into my house is beside the point.

Whatever you decide to get, size it properly. An adequately sized stove is usually a lot smaller than you think and an oversize stove will get too hot, you'll have to keep turning it off and it'll literally burn through your wood (excuse the pun)!

There's 2 types of wetness for logs, what I call surface wetness caused by it being rained on for example and there's internal moisture saused by lack of seasoning.

It'll be harder to burn in either case. In the first case, a day or so in the house next to the burner should dry it out enough, if its the latter then you risk sending stuff up the chimney that can cause tar/soot build ups. Burning any wet-wood also sends steam up the chimney that can also cause soot buildup.

For seasoning wood, in my experience, adequate airflow is more important than storing wood in a waterproof room.