Flats for me on the fat bike but SPD’s on everything else.

Another thumbs up here. No where close to me so have never visited but did spend a lot of money on a frame and wheels and the service was first class. Always helpful and took time to answer email queries quickly. If they opened a branch down south they would be my lbs.

Just to add my 2 pence worth. I recently took the plunge and got a 2015 Rocky Mountain Blizzard with Blutos for a great price as the new one was coming out. My main bikes are very much XC focused coming in around 19lbs and 20lbs respectively. Like many I was concerned what a 30lbs+ monster with huge tyres was going to be like in comparison. And the answer is bloody fantastic. To be honest I don’t notice the extra weight half as much as I thought. I’m running fairly high pressures at the moment and the drag isn’t that bad either. I can still out climb most of my mates, when you ride through a big puddle the spray is like the log flume at Thorpe Park, and according to the local yoof my bike is ‘sick’. Therefore whats not to like !.

You may be better off with something like this if using a threaded fork – http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-quill-adaptor-alloy/rp-prod6254

Shimano M520’s as others have said. Just over £15 at CRC and Evans currently which is not much more than cleats alone. If you dont get on with clipless its not the end of the world at that price. They seems to really last as well.

jools182 – Gore Windstoppers gloves on sale at Evans

Link

Thanks for posting this OP. It looks like a variety of maps are available on talkytoaster so what are people’s recommendations for both on and offroad mapping. Perhaps the base map is good enough for on road so just a separate map required for offroad ?.

I see you only want a rear wheel but Bikescene have some good deals on Roval wheelsets. I have a couple of sets of Rovals and they are very good in my opinion.

Thanks Renton. Where did you manage to source them from as I am struggling at the moment to find some.

Bump – Anyone know the answer ?

Had a similar problem on my RT57 with a outer cable. Ended up dropping the forks out and pushing the cable in from the seat tube end. Could just about get my fingers to it through the head tube and poke it out the hole. Spent ages faffing before I decided to drop the forks and then it took seconds. Appreciate it’s not your exact problem but may help if you want to replace the whole cable.

I can remember back in 1989 using a 1.5″ Specialized hardpack on the rear. Mainly because my old Marin had really bad clearance. Think I still have one in the loft.

Sounds like a good idea to setup a group on facebook. GPS is no problem, I guess nearer the time you will share the gpx file ?.

That sounds fantastic. I would definitely be interested in joining in. I tend to ride from Farnborough to Newlands via Farnham and the NDW so it would be good to do something different.

I think you will find you can take bikes out of Waterloo in the morning rush hour but not take bikes into Waterloo. The other way around in the evening rush hour. Look at the key in the link you posted it explains it better than me. Then again if you have a folding bike I think you can pretty much do what you like but dont quote me on that.

Would have to be my Fat Chance Wicked. It want necessarily a bad bike but I just didn’t really get on with it. I’m surprised to see P7’s on here. My 1997 P7 was probably my favorite riding bike of all time but I guess that just shows we all have different tastes.

Anyone else remember the Isolator front hub from back in the days when all you needed for front suspension was a hub that had the body separated from the bearings by elastomers 😯

Always fancied a Raleigh Tomac replica with the carbon tubes and Merlin Ti lugs.

Still got a Pace RC100 which I bought off a friend when he got bored of it. Also have a 1996 Merlin Mountain which I haven’t ridden in years, as dare I say it, I don’t like it. Had a Fat Chance Wicked and that wasn’t great in my opinion either. Best riding frame I have ever had is a probably a Orange P7. Moral of the story just because it’s expensive and sought after don’t necessarily make it better.

After 19 minutes tell him it’s crashed but hold on you will try again…

I seem to remember there was a issue with backwards moves and disc brakes when they first came out. That’s why trials riders were relatively slow to adopt discs if I remember correctly. I guess its to do with the different loads applied when going backwards.. Then again maybe I am wrong.

Agreed a very interesting program. I come from a fishing mad family although I don’t fish myself. Anyone into fishing will most probably know of my brother Dr Paul Garner who like Jeremy Wade combines his scientific background with his love for fishing. He was a fair mountain biker back in the day too.

I have seen a few very similar ads recently for S-work bikes both road and mtb. They seem to get removed very quickly presumably by ebay. The body of the ad always looks the same or very similar so beware.

Whats confusing me is one end cap has a thread which screws onto the existing axle ok. As you said its undone with an allen key. I think your right the axle looks like its big enough for 10mm but not 12. Hmm not sure what I need to do. Will email tech support on monday if no one has any other ideas.

Steer clear of Renault Scenic’s. I can honestly say its the worst car I have ever had. Lot’s of common faults on these of which mine (2004 1.9 DCI) has suffered all off !.

Thanks Nuke. I remember the Pillar box now you mention it. Will check it out on Monday.

Andy, The shell on these carbon frames is around 80mm, only measured real quick but definitely larger than a 73mm. One spacer seems to do the trick, I guess go for drive side first and see how it goes. Cheers

Thanks for all the replies. That KCNC adapter looks exactly what I need. Will order one and see how it goes with my caliper and fork combo.

Thanks again.