Bowglie there was a climb like that on the shorter of the 2 that i did there was no way you could ride it it was a real scramble up.
Looking up

Looking back down.

I have done a couple and both were gradeed red (from memory) but one was longer and hard than the other but that one you could ride a lot faster as it was less technical from a surface point of view but it did have a large track of singletrack that was cut into the vegitation so didn’t leave a lot of rome for errors. You can also get an idea of what the terrain is like form google earth if you know the route but that isn’t alwas possible from what i have done as you had to go to a local information office to get the route guides which gave you a ruff route and the starting point.

I have stopped but so far not had to do anything as they have all been under control but each time it has been commented that i was the first to stop.
NZcol i am not that suprised as last year they had to close the M27 for a few hours due to a nasty accident and loads of people all complained that they were late for work here in the hospital!

you can tell that mine is from a few summers back from the water level.

I have done that descent of SSS
that was taken from standing on the outcrop you can see in his pic.
this is looking at the tricky bit it doesn’t look so bad from this view.
For some other pics look here

Having looked at them in store they are definatly different to the carrera. WMB seem to be very happy with the way the frame rode and was made with the cheapest one that they tested so can’t see that one being any worse it just doesn’t have the name.

I found a crack on my 456 Summer season yesterday

Having had 2 fames do this to me i know how gutting it can feel.

I do like the way the desginer has come on and explained about his product which would give me the confidence to buy one.

MBR had a canonndale fail on them and gave it 3 out of 10 but also printed what canonndle said they also rereviewed it a few months later when the mods had been done. They also put in pictures of what happened.

How about some spec “the Captain” tyres they roll well work in most conditions and you have the choice of either a large 2.0 or a large 2.2. I’m not sure on the weight but you can get them tubeless ready in the sworks 2bliss version. and they are not that pricy either.

How does it stop from pivioting around the original axel? other than that i can see huge benifits to a bike like that.

Gary_M – Member
That ridgeback looks like a flat bared road bike to me and not a hybrid

Slaps forehead.

that was aimed at those saying buy a road bike.

That ridgeback looks like a flat bared road bike to me and not a hybrid. Going to a full on road bike might make a little more difference but only if you are willing to sacrifice a bit of comfort on your journey. I know when on my road bike i only ever use the drops occasinally as i find it much easier to nogtiate traffic on the hoods as i have a better view.

When i had avids i used to run floating rotors but i did use 180 adaptors with washers spacing it out to 183 as i ended up with a ridge on the pad where it didn’t contact the rotor on the stock avid 185 mounts.
You do have to remove some of the adaptor/mount where they foul the rivets i also used to remove the arms on the pads as they would catch the rivets when they started to get low.

You wouldn’t be changing the c of g much as the lower profile of the tyre cancles out much of the rim size increase unless you run 29er tyres.

For a foreign language action type film i love Taxi. The car driving seanes are great the 2 follow ups get a little silly but are fun just make sure you watch the subtitle versions and not the dubed or the shit us version.

I have a truative one on my road bike and it has been fine for 2 years. I have never had any play or creaking from it. You don’t need any more than the one bolt as it is only hold the crank on and isn’t carrying any of the load when you pedal.

I also really love stardust as does my 6 year old daughter after i got her to watch it.
An old film that i also really like that not many people seem to have heard of is Water.

Owen – but the cars are stacked up for 40 yds so you are not in a lane on the left 40 yds before teh junction

When this happens to me i go on the right till the lane is there then cut through to the left.

Thing is oldgit – on that stretch of road many times I have seen a car pull onto the wrong side of the road suddenly in anticipation of getting into the turn right filter lane which is an extra lane in the middle of the road – going down the outside of the lines of traffic on that one is deffo the most dangerous and to do so you would be crossing a double white line in places

If they pull out and hit you with out indicating or looking then they are in the wrong Where as you would be in the wrong if you were going up the inside. When i am filltering past on th eright and there are right turns up ahead i ride slow and try to second guess what they will be doing.

Never touch someones car – there’s just no need and it’s bound to make the driver angry.

Disagree that one shouldn’t do this. You’re right in that people get so very precious about their tin boxes (which is why the country’s clogged up with people driving to the corner shop), but just because it annoys them or makes them angry is insufficient reason not to attract their attention to their dangerous driving.

Did you every see the fiat (i think) add where the cyclist kept leaning on the car at the lights and the drive got so upset he just backed up at the last second on the final set causing the cyclist to fall over

I have this one and have found it to be good.

wonder how you are supposed to get to the ASLs that have 20 yds of cycle lanne before them?

That would count as your lane being clear though wouldn’t it? a bit like when you get a left turn only that is empty.

I never over take on the inside if i can help it unless a car is turning right as people never look down their inside ( i know i don’t check as much as i should). I find i have the least amount of close calls when i have the trailer on the back as it is wider than me by some margen. I also use my helmet cam on all my commutes and would happily send any fotage to a company of it is one of theirs and i am building up a set of clips of usless driving.
The one thing that does the most to scare me is when people decied half way through overtacking that thye can’t make it and are just going to pull in. There is no way that they would do that to a car/lorry/tractor etc..

I find it easy to drive near the limt whit out constantly watching the speedo and can’t understand why people can’t other than they just have no idea of what is going on around them. I did see recently that some one has come up with a design of speed bump that when hit at speeds slower than the limt deforms and aloows the tyre to pass over where as if you hit it fast it goes rock hard and forces the tyre up and over it. They seemed a very good idea to me.

filmed in the rain on thursday. still fun even in the wet and there was hardly anyone else there which ment it was easier to film.

As above. They offer excellent customer service as well.

Tinsy they do roll very well but i have enough room to get 2 fingers besides the tyre where as i only had just about enough room for one on my old frame hence the 2″ tyre and the fact that you could get the 2.2 at the time. i have just paid £43 for a pair of the 2.2 in sworks 2bliss flavour.
I find that the center clags up but the edges clear really well and the center clears pretty quick when you hit something firmer. I used mine on the test valley cold challange and managed the long climb in ht ewoods where most were pushing.

I have been running a pair of 2.0″ spec “the captian” tyres for about a year and am very impresed with them. I am about to get a pair of the 2.2″ versions as my current frame has room to get larger tyres in. I have used them here in the south in all conditions, at Afan in both the dry and wet and also in the peaks again in dry and wet conditions and they have been great. The roll well on smooth surfaces as well as offering grip in muddy ones. I have got the 2bliss ones and run them tubeless with some sealent in.

I don’t even earn as much as the expenses bit.

I am using michelin primacy tyres in that size with a H rating and that is on a laguna II dci i paid £300 for 4 in december and they are a highly regarded tyre.
You can use some of the oline sites to check what your car sould have.

Are you sure its air and not the oil moving through the shims inthe motion control as my recons make that sort of sound but they are coil forks.

Hora no is the simple answer to that. the xantia one is a PSA one that has been going for donkeys years where as the other is a renault own one.
Its a bit unfair to compair a 1.9td to a 2.5 v6 petrol car. Mine will happly pull from 1300rpm up to around 3.5k. What do you get if you drive the lag like your gran? The thing i like about mine is that to get good compsuption is that i don’t have to drive like a oap and can just drive normally. Ours has saved us well over £500 in the last year even with the current feul prices as it is the only car we have so does do a highr millage. diesels are also better if you every want to tow anything other wise you would see a lot of petrol trucks would you not?

Me niether coffeking infact our last car had a rev range upto 6.5k and i very rearly went above 4k and in the diesel i tend to change at 2k as that is where the usfull torque is. The only time i tend to use full revs is when pulling out of a side road on to a busy fast road.

I use a gerber one at work and it is used most days and find it very good. It has had alsorts of abuise in the 2 years that i have had it and it still looks like new.. I also have one for when out on my bike though that very really if ever gets used so it is perfect.

We are in the process of sell and buying and found our agent to be good. One of the properties were are intrested in the agents couldn’t be more helpfull where as those at a different one seem to not want to do any thing and even though we told them what we were looking for (a house in need of work) when one came in we only found it by looking on the net and when contacting them they said ” oh it needed work and didn’t think you would want it”. so it seems like most industries there are good and frankly rubbish ones.

They are there to 1. help the adjuster turn and 2. to give you the notch felling as you turn it.

The diesel had huge torque, the petol doesn’t. But, if I stuck the diesel in 5th and let it trickle along, the lowest it would go was 40mph, and if you tried to accelerate away from that, well, it just didn’t: It juddered a bit and you had to change down. The new petrol car will pull from 25mph in 5th, smoothly and with useable acceleration. I don’t always drive like that, but it’s nice to know you can, and it perfectly illustrates what I mean.

I can put my diesel in to 5th at 40mph and it will pull happily in fact i often drive it in 6th at 40 as will still accelerate just not as fast but does it with no fuss.

All things being equal, a petrol engine is simpler than a diesel and has fewer parts. Sure petrol has spark plugs, but diesel has glow plugs, plus a turbo and all the related bits. In addition, its built heavier, so either suspension and brakes are beefed up, or they wear out more quickly. On top of all that, a diesel takes up more space in the engine bay, leaving less room to work on it, and when it goes wrong it costs a fortune

Sorry you are wrong here a diesel is simpler engine. You have more to service on a petrol than a diesel the turbo etc’er are not service items any more than the air con pump is and as for the brakes being beffer etc the pads don’t cost lots more if at all and do lst a long time.
a diesel engine doesn’t take up any more space than a same sized petrol engine as the turbo isn’t what you would call huge and the moden engine covers they put on make all engine bays seem full up. If you want a lack of room look in any engine bay that has a front wheel drive v6 in.

but petrol is cheaper to buy and maintain

It cost me less to service my current diesel than it did my old petrol. For starters it goes upto 18k between services and there is less to do on a service than with a petrol so would be intrested where this it cost more comes form.

It gets even more expensive if you have to have a reinforced tyre as well which is why i am glad that i have 16 inch wheels on mine and not the normal 17’s.

I got one a few years back. Mine is the type that bolts together and has been fine for what i use it for which includes working on my bikes and holding the MTB when im not using it as it liberates more room in the shed.

It is intresting that people go have German/Jap and avoid french but no one ever mentions Italian ones (seat/Skoda are Just re worked VW’s these days).
I do find French cars more comfortable to sit in than German ones where as with the Japanise ones it seems to change from car to car.