Been to Belgrade. It’s a great city if you have someone to show you around. The challenging thing without that is that a lot of the best restaurants, bars, etc, are almost invisible from the outside. Would happily go back.
Food’s pretty good if you’re a meat eater: It’s basic but fresh and clean and big portions of it.
It felt very safe walking around. However, traffic is a bit crazy – someone we met there said to me “the easiest way to get killed in Belgrade is to be run over”. Younger people were keen to practice their English, we found no hostility in conversations, although there was a strong nationalist streak to people’s opinions (we also heard some strongly homophobic stuff, but that was from football ultras). I found myself doing a lot of “erm-just-nod-and-smile-and-bite-tongue”. People are very patriotic for obvious reasons: spoke with a very bright engineering graduate who could by his own admission have worked anywhere, but wanted to stay “to build Serbia”.
In summary, find someone knowledgeable to show you around, and it’s great. Enjoy the cheap wholesome food, have a beer on top of the citadel looking over the Sava at 3am, enjoy.
(Watch out for a trick at restaurants/cafes where they bring you a bill with stuff you didn’t order. Dunno if it was just me but I saw that twice. Each time the “real” bill came so quickly after I complained, I could only suspect that the waiter had rung through the more “detailed” one, cancelled it, put through the real one, but brought over the cancelled one, to pocket the difference. Oh, and the airport taxis are often ripoff merchants, something pretty common to a number of Eastern European cities in my experience.
I’d keep away from political rallies/demos, and be wary around the big football clubs’ crowds. I was there to photograph the Belgrade derby. It was properly bonkers in a pretty thrilling way, inside the ground, but a huge battle outside – 50+ arrests, police hurt, etc.)