If the rim has life left in it just buy whole hub and swap it all inc the left hand cup as mentioned above. Heat helps with the cup in the hub shell

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/PROIIREARassy.pdf

I have Di2 on my mtb it works well all the time every time , mines set up with a button on each side next to the grip. Left my up right for down.
Was it worth the money ??? Not sure.

If your front shifter has the little switch under it to change between a double or triple front ring set up , then you need to set it to triple to remove the cable

Which model of xt is it , part number is printed on it somewhere

I can’t imagine anyone buys the park big tool kit. Our kestrel stands at work must be 20 years old at least as well as there display stuff we have in the shop. It was top quality stuff but have not bought any since the change of owner

I’m going to repeat what others have said a bit first. Getting a job in a shop first will help you a huge amount. Doing a good job is the aim but learning to do a good job quickly will help make money.
That and don’t be afraid to ask others , Every day I lean something new.

Sadly just because the Royal Mail site shows delivered and even if a signature is shown it does not mean the person you sent it actually got it.

I’ve had eBay parcels returned to me as undeliverable or uncollected when the site had already shown the as delivered and signed for. All I hope is that prof is enough for me to get my money back from eBay

The cycle division are great for workshop stuff with out all the packaging waste as you can get bulk bagged stuff. Also for anything sturmy archer martin is great and very helpful

Specialized ones are to some extent

https://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/warranty/

If you choose to replace the cup and cone BB with something sealed. You need to measure the frames BB wheel width and the over all length of the axle without the cranks on.
Cant help with a lock ring sorry

I took my winter bike as I could not be doing with damage on the nice bike. I’m glad I did as I was nice and relaxed

Your hub looks like a formula hub as found on many mid range bikes sadly.

If the wheels came with the bike they could have formula hubs instead of the better DT Swiss stuff the after market roval wheels often use.

Looks like an alloy nipple that’s failed rather than the spoke but hard to tell from the photo.

Not really road or mtb spokes but some are lighter and some are stronger.

If it has been build with alloy nipples just get it rebuild with brass ones

Camber was probably pf30 with press in plastic cups containing the bearing rather than bb30.

Just work through the link above for praxis. You can change the bearings in the praxis cups when time comes with either hope or enduro ones

Can’t help with the legal side of things but before spending any money on the car have a good look under it as the original shape ones rust like nothing else out there. Sills , and anywhere near a suspension mount.

Plus side they are normal cheap to fix as lots of used bits out there or new crappy bits off eBay

Always makes me smile thanks

Had a few over the years and all creak free.

https://www.paul-lange.de/index.php/de/explosionszeichnungen.html?file=files/paullange/07_Service/04_Downloads/Shimano/explosionszeichnungen/PD/PD-A600-2991B.pdf

Only video I Could find and yes it’s an xd driver hub he’s doing but you should get the idea. Yours may have a pull of end cap or may have a preload nut and lock nut on the left

The left hand side of the axle should have an Allen key fitting inside it so you can unscrew the drive side nut.

It’s a formula hub and spares are often available through Specialized and other brands who use those hubs as OE

Most of the group sets we fit at work are purchased mail order by the customer as we can’t get even close to the prices at the moment.

Don’t feel bad about asking , if the shop has a poor attitude just find another.

We have found some internet group sets only come with gear inner cables and none of the others so you may need to pay for a few little bits on top. Just check first

Some of the outer plastic can easily be unscrewed once the hoods off

Cost ? Not a clue but it’s a big number and if I had the money I’d gladly have one. And if you think it’s take a while check out project binky

Un51 wow guessing that’s been in the frame a while.

Some heat , bolt the tool into the cup just remember if it’s the left cup you will need to undo the bolt as the tool starts to turn.

Big bar and socket over the BB tool.
I don’t like hurting my shoulder so use a very long 3/4 drive breaker bar

£120-140 ish including the parts for fully build bike but as above you can save yourself some money by stripping the bike down first and just taking in the frame ( clean ).

Chase the shop it’s there problem and yes sticky tape can and does pull the paint off bikes

Overpriced fashion over function. I don’t own one but have worked on plenty. The fit and Finnish varies from bike to bike.
But if you like the look and don’t mind the weight then why not

Plush suspension are now the uk official service centre for all things Spesh brain.

Ignore the 26” 27.5” thing
If you just go by the ISO numbers
The 40-584 is the important bit

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizes

And yes shock horror 27.5” is not a new thing after all

What i need is Sram to make an etap mtb grip shift group

I had ultegra di2 6870 on my main road bike. And in the winter I found it a pain with thick winter gloves. And had some battery issues.
Ive changed it to 9100 mechanical and find it much better.

As for shift speed imo my older record 10 speed group shifts quicker than anything else I’ve had inc Di2 but never done any proper testing.

If you think synchro shift is for you then go for it.

On my mtb the xt di2 has been faultless, it’s 1×11 with a shift button by each grip. Right side for down left for up

When putting in new loose balls Stop when you could fit one more ball in the hub. You don’t need to fill it right up.
Bind the cone and locking nut on one side of the hub up nice and tight to each other.
Then adjust the preload on the other used. Mostly when the wheels out of the bike leave a little play in the axle as this will disappear once wheels in the frame. You will need cone spanners

Ive stopped while cycling to push cars out of the way.
Went to help a friends girl friend who’s car needed a jump start the other week , I was struggling on my own to push it so I could get to the battery. Loads of people just drove or walked on by until a nice old couple stopped and helped. Can’t have taken more than 2 minutes out of his day but made a huge difference to me

R7000 is the new Shimano code for 105. It’s just a bit newer than the 5800 but will work fine

Always ask if they are ok / have what they need. Why wouldn’t you ?

Quirks like not letting you fit a normal sram pf30 bb and having to reuse the fsa cups with new bearings and some retainer.

That’s seems like a nice wheel for a 7 speed bike. A cheap wheel would be around £50 from a lbs

But the mavic one will be much nicer.

What are you trying to do with the gearing and what is on there already

A lot depends on the frame and how much it would upset you if it failed.

I made my allez sl frame work with internal di2. All it needed was one hole enlarging in the dropout end of the chainstay , one hole enlarging where the rear brake cable enters the top tube and one hole enlarging on the bottom of the bb shell. All three hole there already just made a bit bigger.

No one knows if your frame will be ok and up to you if you want to take the risk v a bottle cage mount that uses the internal seat post battery anyway and some sticky tape

Sorry I’m a bit behind , yes I did mean the cable cutters.
But the tool epicyclo refereed to is very good