I changed loads of the headset collars under the recall but did not see any broken ones.

And yes think they will be a bit of a pain as they age.

I clicked on the thread expecting tails of woe after trying to take the actual shock but apart.

Have you checked the new hanger with a tool ?
Just because it’s new does not mean it’s aligned on your frame properly.

But if the indexing is fine then hanger is probably ok

If it’s not leaking don’t worry about it

I fitted 4 of those which are keyed alike 2years ago on my up and over door and still working ok but not sure they any better than a good external bar and locks

My nice bike has some 32mm roval wheels this will be the 3rd summer I’ve used them and not really touched them apart from a little pre summer bike service each year.

Dt 240 based hubs

Only issue is if you get caught in the rain carbon rim brake wheels are shocking

Shimano make a 73mm 122mm sealed bb

https://www.freewheel.co.uk/shimano-bb-un55-bottom-bracket-varbbun55

All you need to do is hold the rear wheel and press on the torque wrench. Or If if it’s easier bike on the floor and torque the bolt.

Yes the hope ones are a faff and I don’t like them. But if you don’t follow there instructions it’s hard to complain

The bloke in the shop actually said he was buggered if he was tightening a bit of alloy up that much so he just felt it on…and then it came loose!

So ignored the instructions and had issues

M970 cranks have a little preload ring on the left hand crank arm. It has a small pinch bolt.

You can try adjusting it ,

This makes me wonder what some of our neighbours think of us. No gatherings or visitors but I’m still going to work and OH is out twice every day to look after her horse. So they will see the cars coming and going each day as normal.

Shimano make some socket tools for both new sizes and as with most of there tools quality is top notch

K good good it’s the start of many hanger overs.

No clue if the bits fit but shimano used to make a capreo groupset with a special hub body and 9 speed cassette which started with a 9t cog.

It was a 9 speed system though

It’s amazing looking stuff , I quite fancy having a go but when ever I think about it I end up looking for an old small milling machine and it all snowballs

I’m a little unusual it seems I went from Di2 back to mechanical.

The Di2 was a pain with winter gloves on.
The 9100 mechanical I replaced it with has been faultless and is lighter.

On the other hand my best bike is 11 speed sram etap red and that’s very good.

The small shop I work in is rammed with service work but we have not had a crazy sales boom sadly.

Either heat crank arm then beat it off.

Or if you can ride the bike but the crank bolt back in just not tight and go for a ride.

But yes a grinder will make short work of it

I broke 3 park pullers but have not tried one ina couple years so they may have got stronger

The tiagra mech compatibility depends on which age shifters you have , they have a part number under the hood so you can check.

As above I’d try the chainset and front mech first before spending money.

And also check the rear wheel will take the 10 speed cassette as it may be 7 speed screw on freewheel.

Is rear mech you have a road 10 speed one or mtb

I’m in the shop today as cycle shops are allowed still , I have work to do and bikes to try and reunite with owners while I can still be here

The WMF site had a lot of cone dimensions on it and Madison are the uk distributor but as times passed less are available

https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

It will be easy to change the bearing as it will tap out and just press a new on in.

If your chainset rests on the bearing with nothing between the axle and the bearing it’s probably a 24377 but should be easy to check and measure.

Those number are just the dimensions of the bearing.

This last few days has been steady but less work booked in for next week than I’d expect but seeing as my boss and other the mechanic are both off unwell I’ve got enough not be bored and will keep working as long as can

On my cx bike I fitted some sram mtb crank arms and replaced the 4 arm spider with a road bike one.

Sram have changed the diameter of the chain rollers when they went flat top chain.

In theory nothing else works with the 12 speed axs stuff but rotor are meant to have rings in the way.

Carbon ti do some but ££££

If you can wait a bit you might get better choice of after market stuff.

Have a look on weight weenies as they have some threads on what works in the real world

What ratio do you want to use for your 1x

Think force axs mech will go up to 33t on the rear officially.

https://gtbicycles.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360016607214/2019_GT_Tech_Book.pdf

This has the exploded parts diagrams

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M952-1794.pdf

I’ve used a suction pump on our banger mk4 golf 1.9 PD since we got it. I think it’s been 7 years and 100k ish now since we got it and it still won’t die. It’s had plenty of of other bits though.

I do oil and filet every 10k

That orange drop out I linked to was from a single speed frame with Sliding drop outs.

Pilo often show a photo with the exact dimensions but not for that one

Flying out of Gatwick in September With Ba got charged extra for the bike as it was over 23kg. We were told as long it’s not over 32kg its a fixed cost of £65 each way.

Flying home from States they could not care and charged us nothing.

We had phoned about a week ahead but again no one was bothered.

May have helped the bike was the only checked in bag each of us had.

https://pilo.co.il/d139-derailleur-hanger-dropout-for-orange-2008-p7-mk2.html

This one ?

I think the gloss invisiframe kits are this 3m stuff

https://partners-ltd.com/en/shop/3m-car-wrap-films/3m-ventureshield-paint-protection-film/

But unless it’s a simple round tube hard tail I’d just buy the kit

My work tool box is a mixture , bottom cab is an old taskmaster one and is battered but with a little grease is ok.

Middle ones a Halfords ball bearing one and is perfect.

Top box is also Halfords but a cheap one without the ball bearing runners and it’s failed , but I’ve had it 10 years plus and it’s used daily. So still good value.

Parts are available

https://www.eshop.novatecwheels.eu/eshop/ratchet-ring-33t-press-in-type-for-d462sb-d162sb-533-system/p-329926.xhtml

But as above I’d just file off any burrs and check the freehub bearings and if the paws still spring out give it a go

I reread your first post and should add I’m on an ADR freehub I’ve not tried it with a shimano HG body.

What rear hub are you using?

The spacing should be fine , which bits do you have ?

My cx bike has 10-42 mtb cassette with sram force road bike group and works ok as a 1×11

Shimano’s own cone spanner’s seem to lasting better than the park ones for us

The older specialized venge vias was my most hated job. Mostly ok with a Di2 bike or better with eTap but with gear and brake cables all in the bar and stem they just eat workshop time.

What bike is it OP ?

HT plastic ones well under £50 and so far they have taken a good beating As my Spesh stumpy pedal strikes a lot.

Flat pedal grip is also about the shoes you use as well.not just the pedal