Is the DAG 3 worth the upgrade from the old park one ?

Dt Swiss , just need to find a some star ratchet ones and not the cheaper 3 paw ones.

Looks like a joytech freehub so probably the same as one used by Specialized / Giant kona etc.

Maybe visiting a few shop to try and match it up.

Or silverfish are the UK Easton people and are normally very helpful

Thought nukeproof was a Crc/wiggle own brand like vitus.

But still does not help if they can’t get shipping space

Axis is specialized in house brand but will be novatec or something similar. So maybe a trip to your local dealer so they can see the hubs might be best

I’d be surprised if the shop did not have a Madison ( shimano uk ) account.

But either way it’s the shops problem to sort out.

Muddy fox back then was a very different brand to today. Pushing the start of our MTB scene

Depending on the exact hub fitted it might be a 11mm or 12mm hex key.

What model and year is the tri cross

Or your local Spesh dealer can look up some parts by frame number but the system does have gaps

Knipex pliers wrench 180mm

Mostly used for crimping cable ends but just a handy all round tool.

I also really like my snap on flare nut 8 mm spanner for hose fittings

Before getting the drill out , if your cranks have a hex bolt on the other side to the damaged one that says “ do not disassemble “ you can undo that side and pull off that arm

Have you tried adjusting the brake so it clears the spokes but does not rub ?

Swapping wheels will often need a little tweak off the gears or brake

A bit of key ring , old spoke bent into shape or pretty much anything will do

I’m a big Spesh fan but older 26” specialized epics can be a pain to keep going with the unique rear shocks.

Sounds like it’s a specialized mindset.

https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/12963941/how-to-replace-a-specialized-mindset-with-sealed-cartridges

Was that size printed on the bearing or an online listing for your bike ?

If it just the listed spec I’d pop them out and measure them

I’d let a customer get to three broken before thinking about a new wheel or rebuild.

On a bike less than a year that we sold my boss would would just fix it free of charge.

Thought I’d read that Marin won’t cover stuff from CRC Wiggle as it was not an official Marin dealer.

Of course if the bike came from else where this does not matter ?

Assuming you did buy it from a Spesh dealer just get them to sort it out

OP leaking hydro lever ?

3-4 weeks seems to be Madison normal. Not just this year.

But be worth checking the shops not had a credit in place of a new bit sent out. It seems a bit random at times with that.

Or that they don’t have stock of the new bit

Sram also sell that bleed block tool , it comes in the sram pro bleed kit

Hope do make calipers that use mineral oil for use with shimano drop bar disc levers. So does make sense to have mineral oil as an option

I’ve got a 2018 stumpy evo 29 and I like it. Took me a little while to adjust to the longer slacker front end.

I’ve swapped the wheel to Dt Swiss ones and it’s been fine. BPW and local rides

Only thing broken is the crappy dub bottom brackets even after a week in Moab.

It is a bit sluggish climbing but not unmanageable

https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/hex-head-multi-spline-screw-extractors-532-series-plastic-case-sets

It’s a poor site but a good product.

I’d add some needle nose pliers and a set of cheap seal picks

Embrace the basket , just fill it full of beer and pastries

Personally I changed from ultegra Di2 to dura ace 9100 mechanical and far prefer it. I struggled with the shift button with winter gloves on.

My best bike is 11 speed etap and it just works.

New sram AXS 12 speed I’ve not had myself but I get to fix plenty of it and all I can advise is run as far from it as you can. All the rear mech issues I’ve seen are force Axs. The red might be ok but I don’t know

It should have a spring in it already if it was a full bike.
What happens when you press down on the bars ?

And yes as above top cap unscrews

Just fitting a new hanger does not mean it’s all aligned properly.

A tool is well worth the small cost , or large cost if you want to be a tart and buy the Abby one

Post mount was a Manitou thing long before every one else went that way

My memory’s a bit hazy but a lot of giants around that age used zero stack headsets with the press in cups sitting flush with the outside of the frame.

Do you have any photos ?

Or is the headset top cap binding on the frame and just needs a spacer

What is his rear axle type.

The hub body will come with a new end cap as they are different.

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/conversion-charts/rotor-kits-mtb-shimano/

I know it’s says rotor kit in the link but that’s the Dt way

A

I won’t buy a bike without a bottle mount
It would just annoy me for my local trails

Have a look at rotor chainrings , they have started to make AXS compatible rings

I’ve had a moment

Sadly with sram just because it’s 4 bolt does not make them standard.

Which sram chainset do you have ?

Either get a hanger tool
Or get it aligned.

Even if you get a new hanger it’s best to check it with tool anyway

Or try your local lbs

Used to be some mtb trails round king alfreds tower just up above bruton.

But I’ve not been up in years and don’t remember anything techy just normal XC.

I think the AFR shock was a 12mm bush rather than the 1/2” fox and current rockshox ones but best the check it’s been ages since I had one of those shocks

I must pull my finger out and get some junk listed. It’s mostly old 26” stuff but that might not matter at the moment.

Depends on which rear shock you have , I normally use TF tuned for all things shock related