Deleted. I was beaten to it

but having now snapped my mech, hanger and 2 spokes, it’s probably going to be on hold for a bit.

Even your bike doesn’t want to do it and has thrown itself upon it’s sword to take one for the team.

Not a direct comparison but I may be able to offer some help. I’ve always favoured flatter saddles. Specialized Alias/Toupe, I’m also one of only 3 people in the world that liked the Bel Air 2.0.

I run the SM Pro on both mountain bikes. I favour more technical terrain so there’s more moving about.

My gravel bike has the SR Allroad Core as I’m sat down more and there’s less squish (tyres or suspension) than the other bikes.

It’s a noticeably more absorbent saddle than the SM but I have no desire to switch them out for Core versions.

James Thomas (bikefitjames) has some interesting thoughts on saddle width that make sense so I’ve always picked the narrower ones and been fine, despite what some ass-ometers might suggest.

It’s best avoided although this option is based on not having gone back for many years, maybe it’s changed.

I view trails as either a feature trail, or a transition trail. Feature trails are fun to ride, dr’s gate is not. Or a transition trail gets you to the fun end of a feature trail, again, dr’s gate doesn’t really.

But if you have an itch, there’s no harm in scratching it. It’s still miles on the bike

For Alps/Pyrenees holidays, I tend to move my front rotor to the rear, stick a bigger rotor up front and the original rear that I took off comes along as a spare. New pads and a fresh bleed and I’e never had an issue.

I run an old M590 chainset with a n/w 38T Superstar raptor ring in my 1×12 GRX bike. Gives me the 49mm chainline it needs while offering a wider q-factor.

If the q factor and chainline work for you, then why not. I’ll possibly upgrade to a set of RaceFace Turbine cranks soon, just because it’s prettier and I have them on the shelf.

I’ve been cleaning waxed chains by dropping them in an old drinks bottle half full of warm water and a little squirt of fairy. Thoroughly rinse, quick blast with a hair drying and wrapped in a microfibre towel until I fire up the wax pot again.

Interesting, how do you test for ‘movement’?

As in spinning on the pins or just dangling loose?

Still a work in progress really. Run my finger along the bottom side and see if they roll easily and then ping it sideways and listen to see if it rattles

I moved from Smoove to Silca Hot wax. I’ve tried Putoline before but found it too soft and gets manky easily. I wonder if Putoline uses the same slack wax base as Smoove.

I was getting really good drive train life out of Smoove so don’t expect it to be much better on Silca.

I solvent cleaned my chains pre waxing as this was just before strip chip and their pot were released. A solvent clean means my cheap Crockpot set up works as I’m not having to get to 125°C. Instead, I can wax around 75°C.

I’m running three chains per bike in rotation so I bull wax give chains when they need it.

For holidays, I plan to use Silca super secret to top up if it’s dry, or Smoove if it’s wet. Smoove is better for longevity when using the hybrid approach but is a different wax base so may contaminate your pot on rewaxing.

If you need to lube mid ride and can’t allow drying time for a drip wax, then Silca synergetic is said to be the best stuff.

I’ve now moved into a two pot system. The first “dirty” pot is around 100°C to melt to old wax off (no swishing in the pot), then move to pot 2 with clean wax to swish the chain at 75°C.

I’m switching chains early, when the rollers get a bit of movement rather than waiting for a squeak.

That’s two or three peak rides in the summer and one in the winter.

I wipe down with a microfibre cloth and IPA after every ride. But then I’m a self confessed maintenance tart.

I’m selling a 2016 Ibis Mojo HD3 green/medium. That will take a front mech.

Didn’t know Ernie was that old.

How lightweight do you want to go? Any interest in going to a barefoot style shoe? You’ll certainly get your toe box width then.

How about going back to square taper?

I believe Wheels Manufacturing offer a BSA30 with a centre sleeve

Middleburn RS8-X are, I believe, 24mm axle

That’s probably a good system. Zero Friction Cycling did a piece a while ago about a hybrid approach, ideal for holidays or long tours. Hot melt wax the chain before hand and then top off with a drip wax like Silca or ceramic speed. He did mention Smoove is actually longer lasting and better in harsh conditions for this approach but as the wax is a different base, it will contaminate your wax pot when you go to rewax.

We saw it, think we were slogging up jaggers Clough towards hope cross when we saw it.

Cheers, good to know. My current thinking is that plain stainless would work better for longer. Just wondering if it might be too draggy for 12 speed.

Dishing tool might not help. Sounds like it’s a little bit frame and a little bit wheel. Centring the wheel to that frame seems like the best idea.

Top Gun Outdoors

Flip the wheel around to see if the offset moves in the other direction. If it does, then the wheel is off and needs refusing anyway, if it does, you have an offset frame. That may it may not be intentional

Started using it at 5g a day recently because I’ve reached that age where I need to think about maintaining what I’ve got muscle wise. There’s also growing evidence that it helps with brain health.

In a nut shell, it’s pretty much the most researched, and understood supplement, generally considered safe and cheap to boot.

There’s a chap called Tom Morrison who keeps popping up in my Facebook feed. He offers something called the simple mobility method. From the few if his other videos I’ve seen, he seems to talk sense. Keep meaning to give it a go.

I’m sure one of the videos in it claimed that Motocross tyres were radial.

What isn’t clear to me is how a more flexible Sidewall is the best thing ever for everyone yet people spec double down or dh casing with stiffer sidewalls for harder riding.

None of the new schwalbe tyres are less than 1200g so it’s clear which end of the market they’re pitched at.

All that popped into my head when I read “radial” was my driving instructor saying radial – rear.

Pick a battery and be a dick about it. I favour Makita. Wide range of tool and at the longer lasting end of things. I’m not buying erbauer again.

Was there play before you changed the bearings?

Have you tried the wheel in a different bike?

My two previous “main” bikes were carbon before the Airdrop. It might weigh a little more, but so do I.

It’s a fair journey from Surry but you’ll have access to all the sizes and the ability to test ride in the peak. I tried two sizes back to back and the decision was obvious.

Last test ride I travelled any real distance for was Germany. It’s all part of the process and a drop in the ocean when you’re picking a bike for several years.

Cassette lock ring not tight? Or depending on cassette, little plastic anti squeak spacer fell off when refitting?

Possibly the freehub body was cracked during the pressing in of the freehub bearing.

Came here to mention the Airdrop Edit MX but see I was beaten to it. Awesome bike though.

I have a load of stuff that I intend to sell. I just seem to busy to get around to selling it. There’s an Arai Quantum F helmet in the cupboard in the spare room. Only used a hand full of times. Reckon I sold my motorbike over 13 years ago.

Cheers. Can’t imagine they do any shape that fits me then

Why did the large go back? Too short in the bib, or too tight in the waist?

I have some self imposed rules for the occasions I use Ali express.

Always use PayPal

Never buy branded

Never spend more than I can afford to lose

Never buy something that is safety critical

Never buy something where failure would have significance consequential loses.

The bombers looked awful. I ordered mine with the Spitfire

Another at 5’10” on a medium with a 60mm stem. I also run a 150mm dropper. Tried both, no way would I want a large. I do want something more off road than fast forrest track

Silly question, but is there not some sort of visa to cover it?

I’m another one using Putoline HPX. It works really well and is what Intend have designed their Trinity brakes around.

Watching with interest as I’m finding my Fox 38 too progressive and was wondering if a Smashpot might be the answer.

@bikerevivesheffield 0.5% on 12″ is tiny, 1.5mm. try measuring across 5 or 600mm. Also tricky with a steel rule as there’s no anchor point. You’re trying to line it up by eye with the pin centre, or end of the link or similar.

The 0.8% thing is interesting and was mentioned recently by Adam at Zero Friction Cycling. It might be that due to the hard chrome finish on the chain, SRAM are suggesting you run chain and cassette to end of life together. Perhaps at 0.5% on the chain, your cassette is now too far gone to take a new chain. Would be interesting to find out.

However, when the chain gets to 0.8%, you will absolutely need a new cassette

Common cause for harsh feelings forks can be bushings that don’t have the correct clearance. Were they home serviced or by a specialist? Some “specialists” are not equipped to size the bushings and others don’t do it as standard