You could always throw Intend Trinity into the mix if you want expensive, flawless and exclusive. Occasionally dropped in batches of 50.

16 year old nuggets pass regularly. If you can evidence that you’re aware of what’s going on around you and can control your bike, you’ll be fine. I’ve not taught it for a while but the principles are pretty much unchanged.

Buy some cheap leggings to go under the trousers you do have. I’m still walking the dogs in shorts. I hate having cold wet fabric flapping around my legs.

Not great for home servicing a there are fewer service centres than for other brands.

But they ride well enough.

How practical do you think that would be? EVs can work if you can charge at home. When you cannot then its impractical

What a massively sweeping statement that unsurprisingly is wrong.

I’ve driven over 30k miles in the last 18 months and cannot charge at home. There’s no denying I’ve had to change my habits, but they’re just different, not worse.

I’m planning something similar in my gravel bike. Took the GRX cranks off and replaced with depression m590 as I prefer the chainline.

Long term plan is my RF turbine crank with a Garbaruk Easton 38T ring

When you apply to the council for the road closure notice, the council will specify what traffic management is required and what times. It does feel like councils are getting more stringent with their requirements.

I’ve used them. He does it as a sideline out of his garage so lower overheads. I dropped a shock off, he serviced it, I collected it. All was fine.

Chose to use Silk because it was within cycling distance so quicker turn around and saved on postage.

If there is an RC3 option, it’s better than the RCT3. The RCT3 has a stiffer compression tune just to facilitate the lock out function. If you don’t want the lock out, RC3 is better.

Another thing to consider is an air spring service.

Also, check the bushing clearance. Poor clearance has spoiled more suspension forks then enough.

Thanks all, especially @weeksy for the kind offer,  I’ve decided to try a set of the Airbrake with a Prizm Low Light lens.  Oakley are offering free returns so nothing to lose other than time.

I think there are some different interpretations here, we need more info.

Where did the spoke break? Was there any nipple left on the spoke?

Tick

Could also be that.

If the spokes don’t extend through the screwdriver slot then the two slides can collapse and as they’re smaller, make their way out.

I found to my cost that it has a limited shelf life so keeping it in stock is tricky without a constant turnover. Hate to recommend Amazon but delivery is pretty quick from them.

Let us know how that goes. I’ve got a feeling that a brake facing kit isn’t something most shops have in the workshop. They should have, but not all do.

There will always be a point where 1mm makes a difference.

Best fix for wallow is more air pressure. There’s no rule that says you have to use all of the travel and sag is a start point rather than a law.

I like to have a bit of travel in reserve for when I **** up. Nothing worse that things going wrong and then to top it all, you bottom out

Thanks Daffy. I’m a good bit heavier than you but it’s useful to hear from someone who has ridden both extensively.

What sort of terrain? I tend to do 90s mountain biking around the Peak. I’ve already dented the original alu rims but they are cheap basic house brand things

Thanks, not come across them before.

True, they’re not the bargain they once were. It’s a bit about the weight saving, although the real weight saving is 30mm internal rim, not so much the 25.

But, what I really want from it is the extra meat around the bead. One of the best thing about hookless in my opinion

Two routes to go hear.

Aggression is a learned behaviour and what can be learned can be unlearned. However, as this isn’t the first occurrence it’s probably safe to assume that the owner isn’t willing to do the work to help the dog. Most people aren’t. Just remember, that dog isn’t giving you a hard time, that dog is having a hard time.

I say this while looking at a very settled foster dog who was recently so stressed he ate through breeze block to try and escape.

Ideally, both the dog and the owner get help. It’s hard work, will take time and money.

The other option is you report it, the owner might get prosecuted and the dog will get destroyed.

If they haven’t already, someone will be along to tell you it will be a child’s face next and it’s your civic duty to have the dog destroyed.

How are you feeling about it?

Something I’ve occasionally wondered as well. However, how do you imagine they get to the shop before you buy one in store.

I think the other thing to consider is that they behave very differently without a head in them.

Just bought a couple of Giro helmets that arrived in a big cardboard box in their individual boxes and the spare space filled with brown paper.

I always thought the rear end length of the Outback was one of its plus points. Balanced positioning, comfortable and better shifting for 1x systems.

Tubeless on everything, Stan’s sealant, no inserts. My MTB rims are Lightbicycle with sealed rum bed which sounds like a faff and a bit of a luxury.

However, the last time I needed a tube was 30 minutes into the first ride on my new gravel bike. I picked up a horse shoe nail that managed to go through the crown and sidewall of the tyre. After dynaplugging those, it still wouldn’t inflate. That was when I found out the nail had also pierced the rim tape. So a tube when it. I carry one on every ride, the trick is remembering to get the right pack with the right tube for the right bike.

I now want sealed rum beds on the gravel bike as well.

Carbon will dull a good blade in no time. It will just laugh in the face of cheap blades

I’ve no doubt the manufacturers battery is a solid option, but it’s cheaper to send the broken one to landfill and buy new.

No, I’ve not seen the charging thread.

It’s for a robot vacuum cleaner

I think I needed it over lockdown but like most, it’s something I hardly ever use.

However, when I do, I’m bloody glad I’ve got one.

It’s one of those things where a bodge or a work around really isn’t going to happen. It’s either fix the chain or start scooting/walking.

To look at this from another direction, has anyone ever needed a set of quick links on a ride without needing the chain tool at the same time?

Whenever I’ve needed quick links, I’ve had to use the chain tool to remove the twisted outer plates .

Not tricky per se, just more tricky than this question. Both are 20×110 but as you say, 20mm boost lands the disc mounting face in a different location.

If, as in this case, we’re talking about all the parts being pre boost, it is more straightforward

Sorry, correction. The bulb 5 bolt are shorter, but the two sides are the same length, about 14mm.

The 6 bolt are closer to 18mm according to the two sets in my box of Hope spares.

You’ll need hbsp hub420. One thing to be careful of if you find some used end caps is that there used to be a 5 bolt rotor standard. The caps for these are different lengths. The caps for 6 bolt are the same length.

If it’s old forks as in, before Boost existed, you’re in luck. 100Q, 100×15 and 20mm were the same hub shell.

The 20mm fork drop outs were a little different and the 20mm hub spacers actually make the olnd 110 but it was all the same pre boost hub shell.

I used to run a 2006 fox 36van with Hope Bulb hubs than did exactly this.

It’s only if you’re talking about modern boost 20×110 that things get tricky.

I was thinking of starting a similar thread. Wondering if anyone from the real world has tried them yet. Well, the Albert

Being in a room and the dog ithrre chooses you as the person they want to sit by.

Trying some on should be ideal but much easier said than done. It’s tricky with any soft goods these days but goggles aren’t something a shop would sell a lot of so I can see why they don’t stock them

While it’s possible to debate Hope Vs DT hubs (I’ll admit to favouring Hope), there really is no competition when it comes to rims. Fit the DT

I own both although I’ve never ridden the 610. I took them off a new bike to fit the 820. The only reason I did that was for the dropper lever.

From a purely mechanical viewpoint, it felt like there was little between them but as I say, I didn’t ride the 610.

I’ve also never had a problem with peripheral vision. What are you trying to look at while you’re riding?

It’s not what I’m trying so see as I’ve never ridden with goggles. More a question of whether that much material around your field of vision is distracting.