Cheers for the last few suggestions – the Prince Albert and the Pipedream look good too, and are well reviewed by the looks of it, but about twice the price of a Scandal (for new) and less available secondhand by the looks of it.

There has been a fly in the ointment regarding buying a new Scandal frame – I’ve just found a Cotic Soul going secondhand near me and if I can get it for the same price as a new Scandal, I think I’d go with the Soul.

Still loving the explanations by everyone posting with what frames you’ve rode/are riding. :-)

Nice pic – thats more like it, with a bit of mud !! :D

Thanks all for the advice – off to see if I can do a deal then. Cheers.

@cinnamon girl – yes but only by 5mm so maybe not too different there. The geometry is pretty similar to the Scandal.

I was wondering more about how the frame material changes the ride, and what you get for the more expensive Soul (a second hand Soul will cost as much as a new Scandal) ???

Yeah – I think I’m almost certain I’ll go with a Scandal.

Does anyone know how to take the standover height (listed on the On One page for Scandal under the Geometry section at the bottom: http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROO26SCVD/on_one_scandal_26er_vertical_dropout_frame) ??

I took the measurement G to be from the floor to the top of the toptube (with wheels on the bike). I must have it wrong because the Scandal is listed at 716mm and my bike measured 890 mm. Any ideas if I measured it from the wrong place ?

Apart from standover height, the geometry is pretty close to my current frame (which I find really comfy), so I’m hoping I’ll take to it well.

Very slippery :D I’m not quite making stealth purchases behind the wifes back but we are having negotiations. In fact, she was the one who said, wouldn’t it be better to just buy a new bike ! I think she was being sarcastic but its something to go on.

Anyway, back to the bike – I’ve checked around on a few web sites and I’m not much taken by the likes of what I’ve seen so far, so if anyone comes across any quality bikes at a bargain price, give me a heads-up.

Thanks Rusty – s**t, maybe I’m too titchy for even a 16″. I don’t think I can be riding around on the kids frame ! Maybe I can put blocks on the pedals like when I was a kid !! Think I’ll just measure up my current frame first and see how it compares. Cheers for the heads-up.

Chess.com is awesome for live games. Always between 7 – 10k players online at any one time so can always get a game. Depending on what you want, its free to play and you can also enter a limited amount of tournaments per week, plus they broadcast lesson lecture type things all the time. I play 5/0 Blitz games on my Android quite often. Sportsmanlike to asshole player ratio is fairly high: meaning I only get insulted for no good reason about 1 in 10 games (you don’t even have to win (or surrender) to get called a “cheese eating surrender monkey”; if you do win, its always my mother who gets insulted ?!?). In fact, some of the insults are so entertaining its worth signing up for that alone (I might release a coffee table book of internet insults) :D But seroiusly, its no worse than anywhere else for hassle.

I know its a bit g*y, but if you want, you can add me on chess.com – I’m “Oldgwegg”

Thanks for the last few comments – very helpful and informative. Thats the history or guide of On One frames that I couldn’t find when I did a quick search earlier. Excellent.

So, a Scandal it is then – and I think I just got permission to get a new one.

@Cheezpleez – no I didn’t realise I might need new BB, front mech, seatpost, etc. I thought I read on the On One site that the BB is standard 68, which is what I’ve got. Hopefully that’ll be OK. Bummer if I can’t carry over most of my bits.

Whats the best way to determine what I can use ? OK – just had a look at the On One website again. Guess I just need to measure up the frame on my current bike at a few places – hopefully all will be good.

@FOG – cheers for mentioning you have one for sale – but I’m only 5’6″ though so guessing I’ll be going for 16″.

@stevenmenmuir – thanks – thats what I thought (that the Scandal and the Inbred were the same frame design/geometry). BUT, is there likely to be any difference in strength between the two ? I can appreciate the weight difference in favour of the Scandal but I’m not really up to speed with the Alu vs Steel thing. Why wouldn’t I want the lighter one, even if it alu (rhetorical question) ?

If I’m sticking with readily available and relatively cheap secondhand frames, (possibly could pick up new at this price) then for long XC rides I need either an Inbred or a Scandal. Think I can handle just a 100mm travel fork too, considering I don’t even have 50mm on my current forks.

So, whats the strongest frame between the Inbred and the Scandal ? I do come across some fast downhill singletrack off the mountains and I think from hitting the drainage channels at speed I’ve damaged my frame, so I need something to withstand a bit of a battering downhill (but no jumps).

@hora – nah, I don’t see it like that but I get what you mean. All my rides are special because I’m outdoors in the middle of nowhere. I’ve always enjoyed my riding despite now realising that what I’m riding is “crap”. More to the point, my frame and forks just need replacing so my goal is just to get something a bit tougher and more suitable for the riding I’m doing, and get back out there. I’m sure there is a perfectly good frame and fork out there within my budget – considering what I have been riding, I’m sure there are loads of frame/fork combos that will improve my ride anyway – I just need to make sure I choose the right type of frame, so maybe a bit more homework on my part. Will look out for a Sanderson though.

@euro – exactly !! Spend less, smile more – I like it. I’ve already started to become hypnotised by shiny bike bits after being around this place for a few weeks – but I have the will power (and grumbly wife) to resist any extragavant spending.

Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions though – I’m learning a lot.

Cheers all – I’ll keep an eye out for a Sanderson (not many of them changing hands secondhand by the looks of it). Can see a few inbreds though, so take a look there too. Back to the drawing board for now I think. In fact, 90% of my riding is long XC and perhaps I should just stick with 100mm travel forks. But I do come across enough fast downhill because I’ve managed to cause my rear drop-outs to get slightly bent out of shape so don’t think my current frame is tough enough.

@hora – yes you are right. Thats what I keep doing – spending a little more :D I wasn’t going to spend anything, then I realised how much better my ride would be with some better forks, and then thought why not change the frame at the same time as the 456 can be had reasonably cheap. Just found out I need a new headset too. So I really need to draw a line at about £200 for secondhand frame and forks. What kind of frame were you thinking if I had a little more – bear in mind I’ve just nailed my requirements down to something for long, all day XC, that’ll also take 100 – 140 mm travel.

@B.A.Nana – Thanks – do you have any suggestions for a frame suitable for all day XC.

@James – thanks for your explanation. I think I might have thrown in a red herring – when I said “fast” XC I only meant that I’m not going to be pootling along – should have been a bit clearer really. I like to cover a lot of ground and try to keep up a decent pace. I also do a lot of climbing as its valley-ly near me.

As to the build, I haven’t got the forks yet but I’m expecting to pick up some Recon or Rebas, 100 mm – 120 mm, but perhaps the 85 – 130 Recon U-Turns. I’m aiming for something with motion control and either single or double air. You think the Scandal or In-bred would be better for being in the saddle all-day ?

Cheers – just seen a lovely looking one on eBay. Its a Summer Season – am I being thick in wondering what the “Summer” means in that ? I can ride it in winter can’t I ??? :oops:

@Roter – cheers.

Any other On One or other make frames to consider that come up fairly often secondhand ?

Thanks for the advice. Are the chainsuck marks a problem to the integrity of the frame ? The one I have my eye on has lots of wear there but I don’t care about paint jobs or cosmetic appearance if it isn’t a problem in any other way.

@Rusty Mac – thanks for that – really helpful to get some more info about this.

Slowly getting my head around the changes that have taken place with the various models. Decided to avoid Toras, but am seeing loads of Recons and a few Rebas – none with motion cotrol AND Solo Air. I’d like them now but as I can wait, I’ll just hang on ’til I see the right ones.

Unfortunately, the 351s have gone but just saw these at Merlin for not much more money, 2013 model new. http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/frame-forks/forks-shocks/rockshox-suspension-forks/rockshox-recon-silver-tk-crown-lockout-2013.html

There not Solo Air or with Motion Control though are they ?

Does anyone have any tips on what to look for in the Recon or Reba range over the past few years ? There are so many models with various features. Is Motion Control a must have ? I’m looking for something that just makes for a smoother ride on fast XC (no massive jumps or drop-offs).

Yeah – reckon being ready to get back on the bike is so variable but I would leave it a good week anyway just to be sure not to open up the nick to avoid complications that could see you off the bike a lot longer. Had mine reversed a few years later and should really get it done again but haven’t got around too it.

Unfortunately it doesn’t say which Cane Creek it is – must be very basic model as it came on a cheap bike. But if I can put just loose bearings in thats cool.

No need for the cage then ??

And whats the thing about upper and lower race ? Is that for all headsets ?

Like others have said, its more of a social ride, but the food and ale made for a good night after the ride. It does what it says on the tin: piss-up on a bike. When I did it about 7 years ago, it was half boggy mud, a few firetracks, a few woodsy sections, with added beer stops.

If you want something more hardcore, you could do the Horse vs Man, organised by the same people.

@uwe-r: cheers for the explanation and a bit more background. I suspect you are right about hanging on a bit longer. At least I’ve got a few ideas to play around with now: a) either get some cheap forks for about £50 to tide me over and flog them later; b) wait to get frame and better forks, c) wait to get a new bike. I could probably do a) without losing out on anything, while I wait to find a good deal on frame/forks or new bike.

Probably warrants a separate thread but I’m wondering whether its better to buy a bike or just buy the parts. Suppose there are pros and cons – do you ever get a decent priced bike (£700 mark) with all decent components without needing to change something out. Or is it cheaper in the long run to just pick up the parts.

Thanks again for the posts.

I noticed uwe-r suggested the possibility of buying more expensive forks with longer travel and therefore needing a new frame.

Q: Why would I want longer travel forks ? If a shorter travel fork (80 – 100mm ) can provide the damping I need to handle the continuous bumpiness from riding fast on an uneven surface (i.e. everywhere off-road) AND if I don’t jump or ride too extreme, why else would I want a longer travel fork ? Honest question. Just trying to understand what meets my needs rather than assume longer travel is better for me.

Not going to buy a frame right now, so ideally I’ll want something that’ll fit what I have without having to make any changes or buy any adaptors, etc.

@PP – cheers for pointing out the Tora’s – looking in to it now.

@PeterPoddy – thats more like it ! Now to find some mates around here who ride MTBs. Tractors yes, other than that, a lot of road riders, it being France and everything.

As someone else said, the colder the better, especially with a dusting of snow. But last year the snow was so deep it was impossible to ride from the door. Had to put on the cross country skis instead (Madshus Glittertind, metal edges for touring and telemark turning). /fantasises about MTB with skis on either side.

Cheers for the suggestions on the forks – will check out the suggestions so far. I should have made it clear how penny-pinching I’m planning to be – not sure I can stretch to the F100 if they are about £100 secondhand – I’m really looking for bargain basement on the basis that whatever I get they should be better than the MZ Comp.

@Santacoop – cheers for the offer on the MZ Race – I’ll take a look at them and PM you if interested.

Any other offers or advice welcomed. Cheers all.

Not sure its worth resurrecting this but just to say thanks again and quick update. Hope this inspires any cheapass frugal MTB’ers – managed to get my bike back feeling like new by spending just over £100. Picked up a couple of secondhand Mavic 717 wheels (thanks wwaswas – excellent classifieds transaction, what a gent). Also did a routine replacement of cassette, chain, bottom bracket.

When I gouged out the concrete consistency mud from the derailleurs, chainset and jockey wheels, decided I didn’t need to replace anything else. Bent my disc brakes back in to shape by hand. Took everything apart and gave it a proper clean. Found that my frame is slightly off at the rear drop-outs but a washer at the QR gets the wheel back to centre (which is why my old badly buckled rear wheel threatened to rub through the frame).

Basically, I just did a bit of maintenance which I’d neglected to do for the last 8 years :oops: I spent probably as much on basic tools as I did on bike parts so I can look after my bike properly now – resisted that for too long and now realise that was a false economy. Why didn’t I do this a long time ago ? Now I’m feeling pleased with myself I can see money starting to flood out of my pocket – maybe :P

@iain1775: Nice selection of sayings, french not too bad. Not sure of the relevance, but there you are.

Apart from that, this is descending in to proper bollocks now. There isn’t any question of whether buying from an online store is “within what the system specifically permits”. Do we or don’t we live in a world with globalised markets ? In this case, we are only really talking about buying from within the EU. What does the U stand for in EU. And is France in the EU or not ?? If you don’t like free markets, go and live in a self-sufficient community and opt-out as much as you can.

More to the point, I’d say that most of us act out of self-interest a good part of the time, but equally likely, a good proportion of us act in ways that support different things, whether that be our local communities or a cause like buying organic produce. I know this is a bike forum, and a public forum as Juan stresses, but enough with the judgements even if it is about where to bike bits. What is the point if you aren’t taking the bigger picture in to account ?

@mugsys_m8: And as to

I do feel strongly about non French working in France and remaining outside the French system

. That doesn’t really mean anything, certainly not relevant to the question Juan has raised. If you are resident in France, you are legally obliged to register with the French authorities every bank account and every penny of earnings you make, no matter where those accounts or earnings themselves exist. And you pay tax and social charges in to the french system based on that. The only way you can get round that is to work on the black – but that can (and does) happen everywhere. I’d be willing to stick my neck out and say that it happens in France at least as much, if not more, than in Britain, Germany, and other northern European countries. From conversations with French people here, it is accepted because for quite a lot of people it is the only way to survive and prosper when there is such high taxation and costs to earning.

Nice to see some posts putting across the other side of the argument about where we should spend our money. I felt a teensy bit pissed off when Juan (Kerr ?) started having a go at me for living in France but choosing to shop EU wide. I only wanted to know where to buy some bits and didn’t want to go off on one.

Still, got my purchases sorted and bookmarked all the sites, so just getting this off my chest: Juan, most of what you said sounds like good intentioned bollocks. Surely you just need to make sure your own house is in order before you start dishing out instructions about what others should do. Personally, I’d have a huge amount of respect for you if you took everyone’s interests in to account before you make every decision in your life, even if it meant losing out yourself – but I’m never going to know about that because I’m not a nosy prick. Well, I’m not nosy anyway.

@Juan – appreciate that Juan – but for various reasons, sometimes people just want to buy a bunch of bits and pieces, tools, etc, from an online retailer, rather than travelling around and especially if one is trying to be a bit self-sufficient (maintenance wise). And you know how big France is, and I live in the middle of nowhere – so yomping around searching for parts isn’t what I’m interested in. With regards to your comment about how good the LBS are, no comment on the last specialist mountain bike shop I used, and the very well respected one in the city is having a laugh on component prices. Thanks though.

Thanks for all of the names so far. I wouldn’t have thought to go searching for german bike shops until I read a thread on here this morning where someone mentioned the price of BBs from a german store. I’ll have a look at these stores, and search for any others now I know.

Cheers for all of the replies so far, even for the guy who slated my MZ Comp forks :D (I’m sure they should be ditched but as I’ve never been on a decent bike with decent forks, I don’t know the difference).

@juan – I’m in central France, not too far from Clermont Ferrand. Do you know of any online forums where people sell stuff like in the classifieds here on SingleTrack ? Or anywhere else for that matter – Leboncoin is a bit rubbish and prices are stupid over here.

@wwaswas – cheers for the offer. Emailed.

@andrewh – cheers for the suggestions there too, and I’ll remember that one about Robert being a sibling of your mother :P

@mefty – thanks for the encouragement on being thrifty. Going along with the other suggestions, maybe I should be looking to upgrade by finding decent quality stuff second-hand.

Still interested in any other comments by the way. Cheers

Thanks for all of the rapid responses – I feel all happy and reassured now, and will just keep an eye on it after each ride. And thanks to whoever pointed out that a failure there probably won’t lead to a fatality – I hadn’t been thinking like that, but yeah, as its on the rear, at least I shouldn’t be going over the handlebars :D