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  • A Spectator’s Guide To Red Bull Rampage
  • oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @honourablegeorge – click the link in my first post and then use the Peter Poddy pdf. Just ignore the bit about buying the special kit and re-fit the bits that you took off, but adding an o-ring underneath the spool dial, and if you need something to get a grip to turn the spool dial, put a longer screw or cap head screw in the allen grub thread.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    OK – thanks for the explanation.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Thanks ! Finally figured out what you meant – so if I put a cap head screw in there to get some grip, I presume I don’t need an extra o-ring or washer underneath the spool dial.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Only just seen the last 3 posts – thanks all for the advice.

    @oldnick: yeah, but I like having my Poploc working. I think what you are saying is either take it off or leave it in place but locked. In fact, its just hanging there not doing anything at the moment and the forks are working fine ‘open’. But I would like to have the thing working on my handlebars so the search continues for tiny circlip and o-ring.

    And I had to Google ‘electrical choc block’ :D What am i going to do with that ?? Ohhhhh. Is that the clamp ?

    Anyway, took the bike out for a few hours yesterday with 25 primary school kids and they all made it back – and my bike rode really well apart from the squishy sound from the forks. Maybe I’ll turn it upside down a few more times to ensure they are getting some oil.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @tthew – excellent idea, thanks. If I can find some allen head screw bolts that should work.

    @oldnick – thanks for the advice. Bike up-turned. So what will that do exactly ?

    Yeah I am a bit stressed – how could you tell ? I’m meant to be taking a load of primary school kids out on a 2 day MTB soon and its there test tomorrow morning. I’ll have to commandeer one of their bikes if mine goes tits-up.

    Any more sensible advice, ideas about where to buy bits ? Cheers again.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Yessss ! Strings of Life. Excellent – brought a smile to my face.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Thats good. Where are all the torque wrench brandishing namby pambies now, eh ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Sorry for the hijack but while the OP is waiting to reply with more info, what is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for ? I’m trying to do as much to my bike as possible and I decided not to splash out on a torque wrench. Do most people use a torque wrench or can we get around it for most/all things ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Don’t know if this helps, but if you mean the big metal plate thing like in this picture then it slides right up to meet the back wall of the wood burner. But, as you can see, there are holes on each side (the triangular section), but which doesn’t allow the flame to directly reach the flue.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3ILs65e6cEvNXlKbxgQsnzvT4XCVrRobvmJ9K-DerAE?feat=directlink

    Doing a quick google, it looks as though there would NOT normally be a gap. I read one report saying the baffle plate had slipped out of position and this had allowed the flame to directly heat up (massively) the flue, which caused a fire. I think the idea is that the baffle stops the direct flame and heat disappearing up the chimney/flue, plus it creates that swirling flame effect (looks nice) and in some cases, it might be used to help with airwash for the glass.

    Having said all that, I reckon fitting the baffle plate, and the design of the baffle plate, varies from wood burner to wood burner, so I guess you really need to seek out some advice from the manufacturer. Unless its homemade, you should find the manual on the web, no ?

    What make is it ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    OK – sweaman2 beats me on todays temps. Minus 15°c is cool. I was out in minus 5°c this morning with my new gear from Wiggle and before I went I was a bit worried.

    The merino top was the M150 – didn’t realise until I opened it that it was rated for “mild” temps. I couldn’t believe how thin the Roubaix Zero bib/tight thing was – but I decided not to try and fit thermal underwear layer underneath as well. And the DHB Signal jacket was also really thin. I thought I’d be freezing.

    So I went out with just the DHB merino long sleeve top, signal jacket and 3/4 Zero bib/tights. And I was warm everywhere except a little chilly on my shins (but not really a problem).

    Feet were warm in my summer Shimano shoes (below ankle but) with a pair of heavy winter overshoes. Hands were warm with more than comfortable with SealSkinz All Weather gloves.

    @itsmygame – what kind of weather are you riding in ? I think someone mentioned that if you have everything too tight it can reduce circulation – any chance of loosening your shoes a little ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    What about XC courses? It’s happening in the US:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/fat-bikes-on-ski-trails-35924/

    Hope they don’t start that nonsense here – bloody mountainbikes on my XC ski routes !! I’ll stick my pole in their spokes I will. Anyway, thats just like going for a ride on snowy footpaths isn’t it – something you can do anywhere when there is snow.

    Seriously though, I do both (XC MTB and backcountry skiing). Off piste would be OK but I don’t see it being a good mix on the same pistes.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Glad its not just me – loads of falling off while stationery at first. Worst time was when I was accompanying a group of kids from the local primary school on the annual 2 day mtb ride – they were all lined up nicely waiting for the signal to pull off, I rode up to the front of the group, came to a nice calm stop, and me and the bike, welded to each other, just fell over sideways to the ground. It took some madskillz riding to regain their respect.

    And +1 to nice and loose. I have mine set-up now so I can get either foot out almost as easily as lifting off flats, with a fair bit of sideways float.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    That didn’t take long. Wiggle now have the £15 off a £100 spend and £40 off a £200 spend.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @Rusty – cheers – as I’m not in a hurry I’ll hold off then and see.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Well, STW has come through for me again with sound advice – I have decided to leave the filed cranks. Thanks for the offers above, but I’ll pass for now. Just found new XT M770 cranks and rings (no BB) for £35 – just waiting for a response.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @wwaswas – Bummer. Anyway, don’t just say you ordered “something” – what was it !! We’ve got to know

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Cheers all – I want to run triple-ring up front.

    @shortcut – yes – I’m very short, just under 5’6″. More to the point, I find I’m getting some slight knee pain and want to try shorter cranks. I’d love 165mm but they are rare as rocking horse shit but apparently 5mm (each side) can make a difference (alledgedly). The mystic art of crank sizing varies quite a bit but the overall concensus across the interweb is that for my height, leg length, etc, I would benefit from shorter cranks.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    MrGFisher – 10 spd ? I have M770 9 speed on my bike. Will yours work with mine ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @glasgowdan – you are right but the 170s (bit less common than 175s) I found are £65 with unused rings and BB. I saw someone asking for £50 for just the crank arms on here the other day (and I think someone bought them), so I thought I’d go for the whole crankset for £65 if I can understand what has been filed off.

    MrGFisher – as above really. Ideally I want 165mm/170mm (I’m guessing yours are 175 ?). But if I can get the arms, rings and BB for £65 I’ll try that first. Thanks for the offer though.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Singlespeed Shep – thanks for the link, I didn’t see that post when I posted last night. Maybe thats it – I was just thinking of a couple of washers when he said “spacer” !

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Good idea – I’ll ask for a close-up pic as I’ve only got a pic of the whole crankset.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    I just wear my normal “summer” Shimano shoes/boots (ankle high) and put a pair of BBB neoprene winter shoe cover things. They zip up snug and have a velcro fastening well above the ankle. Lovely and toasty and the plus side is that I don’t have to wash off any crap from my shoes. Good for any temps here in the Auvergne, France (-10°c is normal, don’t usually go out in colder). With really warm socks (or a pair of SealSkinz if necessary) its doing the multiple layers thing to keep you warm. And of course, its cheaper than owning another pair of expensive boots.

    Edit: just saw the problem of getting wetsuit socks into bike shoes. If thats a problem just pay up for a pair of Sealskinz – I’ve had one pair for years. At first, they feel what (I imagine) it must be like wearing a plastic bag for a condom – a bit baggy and shapeless. They don’t seem to hug your feet like normal socks. But doesn’t bother me now and they aren’t any more difficult to get in my shoes than normal socks.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Well I don’t really get it either – why it feels so different. I suppose I don’t use the middle ring so much because I just feel like I’m pedalling too fast compared to what I was doing before. So I end up on the big ring more. And as for using the inner ring more, I now find it better to use the (inner) front with a harder ring on the cassette. I’m an amateur I know but it just feels weird.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    teamhurtmore wrote

    … talk in a smoothing fashion to the dog …

    . Really ? Seriously, most of the time a dog just appears from nowhere, barking like mad while making a beeline for me. I know I might be a pussy, but lets not forget “fight or flight”. Bet there weren’t many caveman that thought about grunting calmly at whatever giant beast was about to stomp on them. I’d save talking in a smoothing fashion for raising farm animals and your own domestic pets.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    I’m always coming across dogs running loose in the countryside here, when passing through a hamlet or small village. Most of the time they are OK but I do still often get chased by one or more. If I’m going slow and can’t ride away from them I get off the bike if necessary and use the bike as a barrier (seriouslyn some are pretty aggressive). If I can ride straight through I either try to out-run them (had some fast dogs on my tail even when I’ve been bombing downhill). If I can’t get off and can’t out ride them, I take my pump off the frame, extend it and get ready to clout them. But in any situation, I always try to do my best impression of a lion i.e. roaring at the top of my voice (really – sounds a bit nuts but most dogs don’t seem to like it :D). Worst incidents have involved a rottweiler and 2 rabid labradors, plus a few little yappy things egging them on, no one about to call them back. Was a bit terrified. The other bad one was 3 huge alsatians, but turned out OK as my little jack russell (was walking the dogs at that time) sunk her teeth in to the back legs of one of them and it went off howling, followed by the others.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    shifter – Member
    Don’t fill frame with water.

    What about orange squash !?? I can’t fit a bottle cage on my frame so I installed a long straw in one of the bolt holes on the top tube. Is that bad ? Will it kill my bike ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Keep ’em coming – thanks so far.

    So, is it OK to store my bike upside down ?

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    [Sorry for repeating this post in here too but there were a lot of people who really helped me here too]

    Quick update and to say thanks to everyone who helped me by responding with answers and advice.

    I WAS intending to buy a steel hardtail frame and some decent forks but who would have guessed that what I actually wanted was a full sus ? I didn’t really realise you could get a FS for XC and I’d always assumed they were too expensive and for downhill.

    Found an ad on here Saturday morning, quick drive halfway across France later and I’m the proud owner of a Rocky Mountain ETSx. I’m in love with it already ! Thanks again.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Quick update and to say thanks to everyone who helped me by responding with answers and advice.

    I WAS intending to buy a steel hardtail frame and some decent forks but who would have guessed that what I actually wanted was a full sus :D ? I didn’t really realise you could get a FS for XC and I’d always assumed they were too expensive and for downhill.

    Found an ad on here Saturday morning, quick drive halfway across France later and I’m the proud owner of a Rocky Mountain ETSx. I’m in love with it already ! Thanks again.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @jasonm945 – no, not more choice !! Just thinking about a Cove Handjob as another option.

    @timc – Just found a new 2012 in my size at The Bike Chain for £309 too. Tempted but will look around first to buy secondhand and spend the saving on some better bits to build it up.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Cheers all – really helpful.

    @h4muf – I had started to look at the Pipedream but then forgot about it as they didn’t seem to be as readily available.

    @TimCotic – Ditto for the Cove – although I have seen a few more of those for sale but don’t know why, I just forgot about it – will take another look. Plus I got a bit distracted by HAVING to have a Soul. I do want to stick with steel for my next frame, just to experience the thrill of steel !!

    @jasonm945 – thanks for pointing that out – but I’m after a small/16″ or 17″

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @Titusrider – ahh, thanks for the warning. That confirms what I’ve read elsewhere (except a fairly complementary BR review for the 2008 model). I was nearly tempted earlier on to get the frame and forks but think I’ll pass this offer by.

    On sizing, being 5’6″, could a 17.5″/medium be set-up to suit me ? Gives me more options.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @sok – thanks but I’m looking for a 16″ (only 5’6″). I’m impressed that people have got Cotic Soul frames knocking around in the garage though ! There is hope for me yet.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @Swingbing – good point. As much as I want a Soul (more now after everyone keeps saying how nice they are :-)) my spider senses are tingling, telling me I should wait to find just the frame only (without forks I don’t want), and perhaps a post CEN model. Thanks guys – anyone getting rid of one, let me know please.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Just found and added the other pic to the photos (was missing before) which shows the number on the bottom bracket.

    The number is stamped: S400 1953

    Maybe it doesn’t tell us anything.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @Northwind – the seller seems happy riding it with 140mm travel – I was intending to keep it on 120mm. Are you saying yours is the same era as this one (possibly pre-CEN) ? And which frame do you miss – the Scandal or the Soul ?

    I wish there wasn’t so much reported difference between the Soul and the Scandal – all this love for twangy 853 means I’ve got to go through a bit more of a search for a secondhand Soul rather than just buying a new Scandal. Sounds like its worth it though.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    @cinnamongirl – I’m just looking to buy frame and forks. Have been looking in the classifieds here but seems like everyone wants one (when a complete build was for sale the other day, 2 people wanted just the frame) and they don’t come up too often. I’ll hang on if this isn’t the right one though.

    @ononeorange – I haven’t seen the bike as its a few hundred miles away and I’d be buying it unseen, posted.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    :lol: Well – its true that Orange is not my colour but at the end of the day I don’t have any interest whatsoever in what the bike looks like. I know some of you love your decals and paintjobs but I’d only be interested in what it rides like and is it structurally sound. And if the Soul is as good as people say then it could be puke green for all I care :D

    I did think about the BFe – I can see that they are cheaper for a start and perhaps more easy to pick up/find. But I don’t want the extra weight and it’ll be too much bike for me I think. I’ve already put buying a Scandal on hold because I’ve got the Soul bug (and perhaps something similar with 853 steel if I can find it).

    So, what do these pictures tell you about the condition of this Soul then ?

    Edit: Interesting – difference of opinion on the year. Does the number on the underside of the BB tell us anything ? As for paintwork – I’m not bothered if its cut to ribbons – its just the strength and integrity of the frame I’m worried about.

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Would someone experienced in the witchcraft of steel frames please have a look at these pictures of the secondhand Cotic Soul I have found to give me an idea of what you think. It looks pretty scuffed in places but I’ve no idea how superficial that is. I wouldn’t mind knowing what year it is too – seller doesn’t know so I guess he got it secondhand. Could be the first model I guess – is that bad ?

    The seller seems a nice guy and knows his bikes but won’t sell the frame only so it comes with some forks that I don’t really want for about £250. I don’t think I’ll get much for the forks if I sell them on either as they are quite old and got bad reviews for reliability. If the frame looks good I might keep the forks and see how they run. They are Marzocchi Bomber 700XC ATA, not sure what year.

    Photos are here:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/110333594892542287288/CoticSoul?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOGRjoOEp_6fjQE&feat=directlink

    oldgwegg
    Free Member

    Would have to say my Husqvarna chainsaw with 18″ guide bar is what makes me feel a bit more manly – slaying trees and chopping up firewood. Phwoooar !!!

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 75 total)