Report his sorry ass for trying to fleece you.

Well i just had a nice call from them to say my warranty returned item is on it’s way for repair FOC.

Im happy :D

Discs on cars.

How anyone thought of the drum brake before the disc is beyond me.

Some frames use alloy bolts – so i think its safe to say Ti is fine…

Superstar ones are poor IMO – i’ve had some with cracked heads, unpolished so all the machine grooves are still present etc.

Gone now.

Phew – came here to ask the same question. Glad to see im not the only one being affected….. I can’t google anything without getting the message either.

What about buying some new Reba WC’s off ebay etc and keep the old ones for spares – but sell the crown etc.

Dirt cheap – can’t shift the stuff.

Should mean things are cheaper but there not.

Sid Team if you can – the blackbox dampening is much better.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=AUnFeMUFaNU

Thats the basic idea.

Bad news for buying new – anyone know what the RRP on the XTR cassette is now ?

Great news for anyone looking to sell Shimano parts though :D

Depends what rim your using ?

Might just need some tape, maybe just a rim strip. But you WILL need sealent.

Normal tyres work.

I just so happen to have some sealant for sale….

I use KMC X9 SL chains – now using an X10 SL though.

Far better shifting than Shimano or Sram, miles better durability too. I’d rather buy 1 x chain at £45 than 3 or 4 cheap ones during the same life span.

Just try some Teflon greese then – or rock n roll super web if you can find it.

Lithium is too thin.

It’s not a lube though….

Lithium grease is too thing.

Try Teflon grease – its more sticky and should stay put.

But a word of thought – the axel might be worn which might be why its wrecked a new bushing so quick.

The sticky stuff one them new is just to stop them rusting on the outside whilst there on a shelf etc. – it doesnt penetrate the rollers and lubricate them.

So strip it off and lube chain properly.

Hmm interresting…

It’s Venus.

Sorry i didnt mean to “tell” you or anything :wink: I just know it is not the cables. Old cassette and chain fitted it ran smooooooooth perfect.

New chain and new cassette and im damned if i can get it shifting proper.

Aye tried that, not getting far. It’s no better still after another hours tinkering :evil:

It’s not the cables – there moving freely with the older cassette and chain the shifting was absolutely spot on instant either way.

Saddle is alright its an SLR – nice saddles those.

It’ll be a fair weight of dried sealant in there after a year of top ups?!

When the sealant dries out the tyre should remain airtight – you just wont have any sloshing around for a puncture etc so you should only need to add say 20ml.

Personally once it dries out i remove the tyre and peel it all off and put fresh in.

I checked – 2gb is as good as it gets with that MB so you aint going to get it faster im afraid.

Hmm, you might be able to stick a 2gb stick in there not sure to be honnest. Do you know the specs of the ram you have at the momment or even the mb specs ?

only 2 slots?? How old is it ?

What system you running ?

XP will use up to 3gb. Are you running 4x 512mb sticks ?

Let me know what you need – ive got some for sale :lol:

I’ve done mine 3 times. Twice on the left hand once on the right.

The last time i did it was extremely painfull as i actually broke it into several pieces. It took the Hospital 4 attempts at an X-Ray to realize it was broken into bits, apparently its a difficult bit to scan so maybe take the results with a pinch of salt ? They put it in a stiff cast for months then i had a softer flexible cast.

The Scaphoid though if you dont know is THE bone in your wrist which lets your hand move, so if your getting stiff (ooh er) then it’ll likey be the cause.

Thankfully mine healed but i was off the bike for months and months. If i put pressure on it now it still hurts so things like press-ups are out of the question.

Regardless of what cassette was used – how is that going to cause the hub shell to split ? The freehub isn’t attached to the hub shell, it sits on the axel and whatever freehub system used clicks agaisnt the hub.

If anything strain on the freehub is more likely to break the freehub itself not the shell.

The damage to the freehub happens if you use any cassette with individual cogs on an alloy freehub – no avoiding it. It doesnt do anything other than look a bit tatty.

Finish Line Green Cap stuff all year round. Lube chain – wipe off excess. Smooth running and a clean chain.

Get some Taxc Carbon paste – which is a friction paste. Means you dont need alot of torque.

Crikey, that saddle is high compaired to your bar height 8O

42/30 i think

CHeck the bolts you get though. I’ve had a couple with cracked heads from SSC.

Got a CK, had it in two frames both faced, both fitted with either Reba’s 100mm or Revs 130mm. Both had badly scored tubes.