Now 4 months off for me with no urge to smoke again. Try read the book but in your own time with no pressure. You need to want to stop as no beer says. Best thing I’ve done this year health wise. Hopefully you do and manage to quit too.

Google maps has a share location feature. I use it, other half wont let me out without it switched on!

We went to les arcs in september last year, think it was the first couple of weeks and all lifts were open. Would def go back.

Endura singletrack £95, I like mine.

We had something similar with our T5. We had the AA read the code for us and it was a external exhaust temp sensor which was giving a high reading. The sensor was knackered and needed replaced- £175. It was recommended to replace asap as driving with the sensors not fully working stopped the dpf from recharging/clearing/whatever. Since done its been fine. Quite common for the electrical sensors to go before the main components (exhaust in this case).

A SES facebook post from yesterday mentioned that competitor notes for the race will be available in the next few days. Hopefully this will arrive before the weekend as I will be up to have a scout around.

Full review of the strive when you get a chance to ride it please. Very interested in this bike, close to ordering. What spec did you go for. What geometry, normal or race? What height are you?
Looking forward to hearing great things about this.
Cheers.

Yes you helped me lift my spirits, was feeling knackered by that point. Didn’t really help on the trail though ended up crashing twice. Thanks to all the marshals especially the poor sod on top of stage three!

Easy, now that I’ve done it likely about five times now. Flip bike upside down, rear wheel off, loosen the screw, chap the the screw lightly to loosen the bolt and remove. Once out you can pull the frame apart and clean. Reassembling is a wee bit tricky you just need to realign it correctly to get the new chainstay pivot bolts in. Both sides can be done in 5 mins.

The main bearing set, I’ve had mine all replaced but with nukeproof ones. Some folks recommend others as the nukeproof ones are not particularly good quality. My main pivot ones were seized causing some notchiness in the travel. Also had the chainstay pivot bushings replaced as these are seen as the weakest pair on the frame.

Have you upgraded the bearings. The nukeproof ones are supposed to be shite. Hopefully you get a fix for yours and mine doesn’t develop that noise again.

Update. Mine is now fixed. Shock was the issue. Replaced with ccdb air. Vast improvement over the monarch.

I was advised this too. I weigh 85kgs and was told that 80kgs was the cut off that they would happily sell an inline. Changed order to ccdb air.

I’ve replaced bushings, bearings, shock mounts and correctly torqued up the bolts. I’m suspecting its the monarch that’s at fault waiting on a ccdb inline to turn up to prove me correct! Just interested to hear if anyone has found a definite fix for this. Not tried greasing up the maxle but mine always has some chain lub on it. Does everyone who has the creak/knock have a clutch mech? Could that be the potential cause, this is my first clutch mech. Cheers.

Anyone, your input would be appreciated.

Waiting on mine in 190×50 flavour. Any update on when I may receive it, tf tuned?

Has anyone still got this creaking noise or any updates on how you got rid of it.
Cheers

The chainstay/seat stay need to be installed dry without grease. I was informed by hotlines the grease will eat away at the polymer layer to the bushings. As folks are saying that tightening the bolts to the correct torque setting is stopping the movement/noise I’m thinking my torque wrench is wrong.

I’ve now replaced pivot bearings, shock bushes, rear chainstay bushings and even the bottom bracket yet the knocking noise still remains. All bolts to correct torque settings. Only thing I can think it could be now is the shock. New shock on order, fingers crossed that fixes the noise. What else could it be?

Rab5474, let us know how you get on once they are fitted. I have already replaced these just after I had replaced the shock bushes as I thought they were the most obvious source of the knock noise. I’ve been in contact with CRC and they confirmed that the noise is likely related to worn chainstay bushes and have refunded me a set as I have recently purchased them. Hopefully that is the cause!

Awesome guys, thanks for finding out what the issue is. I bought my frame second hand and need to know what parts to ask hotlines or crc for. Once you know what parts are required please post them up. Cheers.

I think I have the same issue, not sure where the knock is coming from as it reverberates through the frame.Has anyone more info on the solution to this. I’ve replaced the chainstay bushings, shock mounts. Not had the bearings out yet. Would like to know if anyone has a fix as this is doing my head in.
Cheers.

Oreetman,

Think you should read the manual provided with the shock or you can download it from the cc website. Its imperative that you understand how the shock works to get the most of it and understand how it feels as you adjust the settings.

Also CC have some instruction vids on youtube to help with setting up the double barrel and help you understand it.

Think the max number turns of the preload nut is 6 any more to get the 30-35% sag then you will need a stiffer spring. To sort out pedal bob you need to adjust both low speed rebound and compression.

Hope that helps.

Oreetman,

These are the recommended settings for the ccdb on the five from cane creeks five test rider sent through from Malcolm at cc.

Turn Adjusters clockwise

HSR – 1.0-1.5 turns in from all out
LSR – 8-12 clicks from all out
HSC – 1.5-2.0 turns in from all out
LSC – 10-15 clicks in from all out

Also get your sag sorted out, this also from malcolm at cc-

We like a 30-35% sag range. This would be measured with your riding gear on. Take the bottom out
bumper pry it out of the lower spring retainer and move it up the piston shaft, till it touches the shock
body. Now take all pre load out of the spring, then turn the pre load spring collar clockwise till it touches
the spring. Once it touches the spring give it another ¼ turn clockwise.

Get on the bike I like to rest the handlebars against a wall to balance myself and get in a riding position.
Get off the bike and look how far the bottom out bumper has moved down the piston shaft. On your
shock length you are looking for 15mm to 18mm of gap between the top of the bottom out bumper and
the shock body. This will be a 30-35% sag range. For less sag add a turn of pre load a 360 degree turn.
6 turns would be max.

get that all sorted and your laughing! I’m still playing about with it, the more you do the more you feel how little adjustments make.

I would like to know this too! However its probably best the less travelled areas still remain secret!