Had both SLX & XT feel identical….power is immense, modulation is good you just need to get used to the sensitivity.

Get the one you like the look of….I had SLX and changed to XT, I got the XTs £115 from rose writhing ££10 Facebook discount paid ££110 for SLX and sold to a mate for the same price (he knew how much I paid and is only ridden them about 5 times).

Feel is the same…I don’t use reach bite tbh, yeah pin looks better in XT’s (haven’t had to change pads yet) they are ment to be lighter and apparently stronger….I just preferred the look!

P.S I’ve ridden on lots of mates bikes with hopes, saints, old shimano, ect, etc and they are ace (if you like the power).

Session stuff over & over, start small work up, find what feels comfortable & take it to the bigger stuff,also check this…..

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/How-To-Drop-Off-and-Jumping-2012.html

Read about this place on here re some well priced 2009 rebas, I think people were saying its ok, the guy trades a lot on eBay, this is however all hearsay.

Stanton Slackline?

Cheers, sound like I can have confidence in a new one, any technique to outing one on? Any special tool needed?

Yeah all the way down, I can get a new one for £4 from UK bike store or Crc. Don’t want to bother if it was unlikely to fit though would have got a new headset but don’t want to spend £££ if I don’t need too.

Both forks 1 1/8th no split, solid ring…I was concerned a new one may not fit but guess that would be silly.

I was told rosebike have slx cranks at £85!?

I used to work in redditch, finish work at 5….then hit the BMX track on my 4x bike, they have a club night once a week, floodlit in winter, all weather surface, loads of mtb’ers there, Scott Boom Boom was there often too for a masterclass in getting a snap on. (maybe not what you want though).

I’ll give that a shot too….cheers.

I don’t have them & don’t feel I need them (never get brake fade) but have the RT76 rotors, look the same only cheaper, they’re ace & I think they look pimp.

I’m trying to.figure is it best to have more travel….more sag or less travel less sag?

I’m lazy….unfit….and never been suited to long distance/endurance type sports despite being fit in other ways….did kick boxing for years and go gym and push weights.

Used to ride BMX and for me riding is all about the thrill and feeling of rhythm, pumping, jumping, droping, railing, pumping and jumping some more….all curiously of one of the only free things in mountain biking….GRAVITY!

Ok…that’s exactly what I wanted to hear, just brought some Fox 36’s with a steerer length of 170mm current stack is 175mm, have a FSA Pig headset stack height 30mm could save upto 10mm I believe with something lower but nothing wrong with it and would prefer not to spend extra wonga if I don’t need too.

What do others run? Anyone run more than 5mm?

Cheers guys, interesting, I’m not overly hard on kit, but I’d prefer to feel a bit over bike than slightly under I think, there is a lot of praise for them also with the lyriks would be suitable if I upgrade frame in the future.

If I get some will look at removing the floodgate too.

Northwind….I was asking about 2012 revs the other day & you replied, I know they’re different animals but do you think they are much better for all round aggressive riding….4x, mini DH, trails & xc?

Do they all have lock out?

Any other opinions?

David…I hear what you say but currently ride 100mm for BMX track/dj 120mm trails & 140mm for mini DH, all very good.

From experience 120mm is a good compromise but I think you can only lower 150 to 140 or 130? Not 100% but thought 130 with a decent amount of sag would work pretty much all round. Contacted charge, they said 100 – 120mm.

Northwind….good call will search the web to research 2010 teams.

The weight is a concern though, hadn’t worried too much about the damping, but cheers, food for thought.

cheers vinnyeh I was wondering if it might make a slight difference, anyone tried them at 130?

Yeah mine choke up a bit sometimes too, guess damping isn’t the best on Pikes the design is quite old. The other option is lyriks but far more expensive with little to no weight saving!?

If money wasn’t an issue I think I’d get Fox 36 Talas but that’s not an option….you make good points and everything I tend to read about Revs is positive just concerned I’ll not like them as much…..saying that would really love to loose a couple of pounds, rest of the bike has a lightish build (apart from the frame).

I think if im getting a significantly better fork thats lighter I’m happy to loose the adjustment but if its flexy not as stiff that’s 2 negatives!

Do it…..I reckon mine looks ace but would seem out of place without chainstay protector to match:

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6153274/

So would you say it would be good for aggressive riding, also not sure if it would make any difference but I’d lower them to 130, keep the geo right.

Would do but on a stag do in magaluf!

off topic: getonyour bike, didn’t know your rode with SCC, I ought to come out for a ride, might be fun if there were more like minded trail holigans…..live it up!

Saw that on their ebay page, didn’t think they had any left in stock, bargin, yeah new argyles will sell at a good enough price to get travel adjust forks, Rose were doing pikes for £250, might get that (or very nearly for the argyles).

Keep us updated on how you fund it….I’m sure you’ll love it. 1 other valid upgrad would be wider bars.

Haha, read iridebikes comment after posting mine and was gona say spot on, he’s talking sence. first attempt is a tester and main aim is get across and gauge, keep the bike flat-ish….if you over jump you’ll survive, come up short same again….

I rode BMX for years, mainly DJ, never liked learning on tables because no matter how big they get mentally the is still that safety net. What you see a lot is people learning by jumping and coming up shot and landing on the top, each go they go further and further until they can land on the down slope. With doubles this is not an option you have to commit first time, you may not always get it perfect but normally close enough to ride out and gauge it for a good 2nd attempt before dialling it in.

For me the process was start small (really small if needs be) when you become comfortable the you can go a wee bit bigger and so on and so on, then one day your shredding huge jumps. Most well built trails have jumps getting progressively bigger, as you dial in 1 you can start to attempt the next & the next until you can ride the whole line.

Plus practice, practice, practice, I used to ride neatly every day and I can’t jump like I used too…..I don’t bounce anymore!

When I first got a mtb I used to go out with them, generally its a bit dull but some of the lads were real friendly down to earth guys….I wasn’t very fit (still not) but I’m all about the downs, fast, swoopy, jumpy, rooty and gravity biased riding. I was mostly last to the top and I heard the gasps of disgust as I raced past the leader on the way down. We came to a 2 foot drop…..they made a big thing of it! Says it all. BUT if you want to ride steady with others xc style (or fast xc with the later ride) its ok.

Hook up with them one time see if you like it & take it from there, might be just these type of riding your looking for.

“For me MTBing is about creeping off away from SWMBO and kids and having as much fun as i can cram in.”

Haha, just read this & that’s just like me….the xc bits of the ride are to get me to the fast swoopy single track and dh/freeride park. My blast loop is 16 – 18 miles round trip stopping off at kinver freeride park for some gaps, drops, jumps & dh runs.

If you go with a blender try & get adjustable forks, I run pikes 100mm for canels, big climbs and roads, 120mm for trail riding/singletrack then wind them out to 140mm for the dh runs, so much fun it always has me grinning for ear to ear.

4x tracks, uk dh, trail centres does it all.

Read mboy’s post about the charge blender…..he clearly has never ridden 1!! It was voted best do-it-all hardtail in dirt 100 3 years running….why was that? Because its awsome!! Their only complaint……only come in 15″ so no good for people over 6 foot.

I ride one as my do it all bike, I’m 5″10″…..ride xc up to 35 miles, trail centres, mini dh tracks, 4x, BMX tracks and dj. It’s Sooo agile it just eats up tight singletrack. It’s not an exceptional climber but its worth the tiny amount of extra effort for the fun the rest of the time.

See link to my pinkbike profile for pics and a vid……

http://will4x.pinkbike.com/

Get one!!

I got XT & they’re awsome & with the Facebook discount paid £125!! Steal!!

With 2nd hand it sometime pays dividends to wait just a short while, until recently there were some bargains on pinkbike.com all look to be sold, seen some steels on eBay in the past too.

Edit: just looked on eBay nothing looking like a bargin, looked on pinkbike and was this:

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1054552/

Decent price & spec.

What did you think to the vids I linked!? Does that look like the kind of ridding you want to do…bearing in mind we live in the UK!

Yeah the blender advertised needs a front brake gears and would benefit from an adjustable fork,sawing that it looks sweet for the intended purpose and price, gears and a front brake wouldn’t break the bank!

Can’t disagree more with bleaderwilliams, the blender is not a dj frame its 4x and is very versatile, not a mountain goat when it comes to climbing but easily capable of many types of riding, just ask any blender owner, there is a reason why it was featured is dirt 100 3 years running as best do-it-all hardtail! It’s good around FUN….the only complaint dirt had is that it only comes in 15″ so small if your over 6″.

Dj frames are predominantly single speed without the capability of running gears and extremely compact.

P.s as much as I love my blender if i had funds I’d run a slackline with lyrik 2 step air forks 115/160but twice the price of my frame and forks, slackline is £400 frame on mine was £200, plus blenders come up 2nd hand with a good spec for £500-£600 often, slackline are new (and pretty special) and hardly come onto the market 2nd hand.