Forum Replies Created
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Greg Minnaar: Retirement 20 Questions with the GOAT
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nowmefeelinitFree Member
Thanks all. Globalti – I’ve just googled bearing fit compound and it seems that it’s a mild form of loctite, in effect, that will adhere the shaft to the inner face of the bearing and if used around the outer face , adhere the outer bearing face to the shell. In other words it does the opposite of grease in that doesn’t lubricate the surfaces to reduce creaking – it sticks the surfaces together to remove the cause of creaking which is the movement between the two surfaces. Example here:
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Bondloc_B641_Bearing_Fit_10ml-81564-p?gclid=CJ6a3MeUtsECFSsXwwodfpMALA
Is my interpretation correct?
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThanks all – much appreciated. Will probably try the the Rotor bearings and see how they go. Just got to find some bearing fit compound based on the advice above…..
Would copper ease work (if that’s what it’s called these days)?
nowmefeelinitFree MemberHora – not at all. Fullbore Target Rifle Shooting. For the uninitiated: outdoor, single shot, bolt action, iron sights (no telescopic sights), 7.62 mm calibre, min 300 yds, max 1000 yds range. Come rain, snow or shine, you’re lying on the ground a long way from what you’re shooting at and no excuses – only a central bull will do (and damn it’s hot in lying in the sun in South Africa or Canada in the summer with full kit on – to the point of reaching anyone’s physical limits). Being able to shoot straight in such circumstances is a given at international level although surprisingly, momentary lapses of this basic skill was what let anyone down as much as anything else. Beyond being able to shoot straight, reading wind/weather is key – a 10 kt gust of wind could put you off the target at 1000 yds and competitions are won and lost on much less than that.
It’s not an Olympic sport but it is a Commonwealth Games Sport – whilst never quite good enough to compete at CG level I’ve represented both GB and England internationally around the world.
As for the translation to cycling, the muscle groups and aerobic aspects are clearly different (although I was damn fit whilst competing due to a surprising aerobic requirement for international shooting to cope with extreme hot/cold conditions) – but the process of coaching and the mental mapping is identical. In fact, some of the coaching sessions we had were away from the firing point and with other discipline coaches. I guess the similarity is aiming to develop technique and ability plus mental resilience/adaptability to cope with whatever is thrown at you without thinking too hard about it. And from my experience of MTB coaching, Jedi’s right on the money.
Sorry I didn’t turn out to be an undercover Ussain Bolt!
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberActually, whilst typing, esher shore said it better than I did. This ^….
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI’ve come back to MTB (meaning all bike activity as well) after a very long gap (>20 yrs) and have no MTB coaching experience other than from a Singletrack Skills Day with Jedi earlier this year after being back to MTB riding for about 18 months. I have nothing to compare with, but have nothing for praise for Jedi’s methods and ethos – both are equally important and significant in my mind.
What Jedi teaches is so simple it’s comically effective – I was grinning like a mad-man at times during the course because it suddenly became so easy both mentally and practically. Thus, I would echo any recommendation to go see Jedi but clearly, I have limited experience so take from my experience what you will.
On the other hand, I am a former Great Britain international in another sport and would echo the sentiment from earlier in this thread that innate ability and coaching ability are related but excellence at one does not imply excellence at the other.
From my experience, no matter how good you are (and I mean right up to 1st/2nd in the world at a given sport), coaching has its place and is part of the deal – I have been subject to it and have positively encouraged it and have benefitted from it. Can you think of an Olympic athelete without a coach?
And no – whilst I coach at my former sport as best I can, I don’t coach above beginner level because I’m not that good at coaching!
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThis also strikes a chord with me. About to turn 44 and finding injuries are now worse than I would expect and take much much longer than expected to recover.
3 separate incidents of broken ribs in an embarrassingly short 8 months with 2 of those incidents resulting in shoulder injuries – one rotator cuff and one AC joint on different shoulders – thankfully no broken bones other than the ribs, though. None of these were from pushing too hard on ‘technical’ bits….
I’ve started to consider why I ride and have come to the conclusion that pushing myself aerobically to improve fitness is as significant as pushing myself technically. Thus, I’ve recognised that as I get fitter (especially with a lighter and more capable hard-tail coming into the mix), I push harder in terms of speed which I think is why I’m coming off more on the non-technical bits. I’m simply carrying too much speed for my level of skill.
So, at the risk of a flaming, I’ve just ordered a road bike to do the aerobic side of my habit so that I don’t need to do it quite so much on the MTB – in the hopes that I can slow the MTB riding down a bit and enjoy it more without feeling I need to push it all the time to build fitness quite so much. In other words, enjoy the technical aspect of MTB riding without feeling I need to be pushing to the max in-between the fun technical bits.
No idea if it will work but figured it was worth a try. Still not comfortable with the whole lycra thing, though – still resisting…. 🙄
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberHi all. Really pleased to hear the meet was good. I was so looking forward to it but a small (ahem) incident on the overly dry and dusty (and it turns out very “loose”) tracks west of Cambridge left me with just a bit of gravel rash to my left flank and some re-arranged ribs only the day before.
Gravel rash I can cope with but given past recent performance the ribs are likely to be a bugger for a while so will plan for 11th August.
Cheers,
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberMine is standard issue orange. Like the idea of white in theory but not sure my OCD would like it!
Someone on here had a Soul powder coated in RAL Oyster White, I seem to remember. Think this would look great with black forks (white forks with Oyster White wouldn’t work, I don’t think).
Never fancied the classic black Soul but I’m kind of intrigued with a Gritstone Soul if Cy ever did one – the Gritstone BFe builds I’ve seen look stunning in a grunge stealth sort of way.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberWhy not call into Keswick Mountain Bikes (in Keswick, strangely) and pick up a leaflet called “Biking Around Keswick”. It’s free and you can also talk the guys in the shop about current conditions – they’re really helpful.
The leaflet opens out to an A3 OS map (1:50,000 slightly shrunk) and it shows 4 routes with written directions/turning points:
– The Skiddaw Loop (28 km, moderate)
– Lonscale Fell & the Glenderaterra Valley (18 km, moderate)
– The Borrowdale Bash (the correct version that @d45yth refers to) (28 km, harder)
– Old railway line (10 km, family friendly so probably not what you’re looking for).Can’t comment on the routes, I’m afraid but I’ll be doing the Bash and Skiddaw Loop for the first time next week when I’m up on business 😛
HTH
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberYeah – I would like to join in if the date fits. I’m over Cambridge way so try to get over to Thetford once in a while. Never done a group ride around there so it would be nice to try. Anyone else?
EDIT – so long as it’s not at racing pace the whole way round!
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberAnother vote for the Specialized BG Gel gloves – use both long finger and short finger versions. They’re extremely comfortable and I find that the gel padding is much beter than fabric padding on other gloves.
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThanks for all the suggestions everyone. Think I’ll try the self-amalgamating tape for starters then ride the cr@p out of the bike to wear the mech out and get a clutch mech to replace it 😀
Prize for the best idea goes to yunki, though – really did laugh at that one!
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberAnd @ian martin – Spesh Purgatory’s are next on my shortlist to try after the RQs! Probably after the winter where I’ll be trying out Conti Barons that I’ve picked up already. 😆
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThanks for the replies everyone.
@mattjg – sealant is only a few weeks old so still very fresh. Good point about bringing the whole thing under your control rather than repairing on the trail, though.
@manton69 – worms ordered! Thanks.
@ian martin – yes, Stans fluid from a new 2 oz bottle well shaken before adding. I’ve already tried inflating to higher than normal pressure then reducing – no effect but thanks for the suggestion.I wonder if the loss of fluid from the slit before it eventually sealed has allowed so much fluid to escape so that there aren’t enough ‘balls’ left to seal the other holes properly? Also wondered whether the release agent from tyre manufacture process (on the inside of the carcass) is preventing a seal – perhaps next time clean inside with IPA before adding sealant?
Tempted to take the tyre off, clean up, patch slit from inside, clean any residual release agent internally with IPA and try again.
Still seems odd why I’ve got 7 holes in the rear tubeless tyre and none in the front tubed tyre. I know they don’t always follow the same line but……!!
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI’ve had the good (bad) fortune to have experienced the very best of nursing care and I consider myself to be very fortunate. True, there are some that might leave a little to be desired but on the whole my experience is more than positive.
(edit. Deleted self-pitying paragraph. MTFU & all that).
I think you’ve got to be a bit special to deal with some of the crap that nurses have to cope with every day – but they don’t seem (outwardly) to think anything of it and just cope. For most us, compare with normal life and go figure.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberPark for me – seem to remember I picked a pair up for about £25 after a bit of googling. Been very happy with them.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI bought a Radon ZR Lady for my wife last year for exactly the same reasons from here.
Amazing level of kit for the price and delivery was hassle-free.
HTH. Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI was with Nath and Tony recently on my first public day – actually, I think they complement each other really well. On first meeting, Nath is incredibly laid back and a quiet guy with a lot of well justified but reserved confidence. He certainly has a great eye for detail and is pretty succinct at pointing out small errors in a constructive and encouraging way. As is Jedi – just slightly different and therefore an equally valid, useful and correct point of view. Really got a lot from both of them in different ways.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberEssential for me – naturally over-torque everything and anything naturally despite coming from an engineering background. Aluminium alloy can strip quite easily, let alone magnesium alloy – and that’s before you get into the minefield of carbon…..
That said, if you’ve done without one for 20 years, your wrists are much less in need of calibration than mine! Given the cost of components these days, though, I’d probably still get one for the lighter torque values where I know I’m most susceptible to getting it wrong – I’ve got one of these and it works perfectly: linky
HTH. Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberJB – been through this recently for my 26″ Flow Ex rims so just checked for Crests.
According to Stan’s website here the Crest rim can use a 21 or 25 mm tape. The tape in the kit you linked to is 25 mm – I got the same kit from a different website where it was advertised as 25 mm tape which is exactly what I got.
I’ve taped both of my wheels and there was a fair amount of tape left over so I think they’ll do 29er rims. Definitely follow the video tutorial on Stan’s website.
Still got tubes in mine as instructed by the video tutorial to make sure the tape has stuck to the rim properly so haven’t used the jizz yet. The only thing I’m not sure on is how much jizz to use – I think I read somewhere that the 59 ml in each bottle is for ‘normal’ tyres but larger volume tyres need more but I don’t know how much more. I’m setting up 26 x 2.2″ BC Rubber Queens (large volume) so I wonder if your 29er tyres might need a little more also? Anyone else know the answer to this (if you don’t mind me jumping on the back of your thread!)?
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI’m one of the lucky ones – diagnosed 8 years ago but been in remission ever since the first op. Managed to get it very, very early. Ton, Deejay & Dibbs – all the best to you – will be thinking of you.
More routine stuff includes collapsed arches, slightly dodgy knees, shoulder impingement on left side and managed an OTB incident yesterday so right shoulder and right ribs are very badly bruised but thankfully nothing broken. There’s a few other niggles that aren’t worth mentioning. Oh, apart from picking up some varifocals so I can at least read the date on my watch!
I’m a very lucky 43 yrs old.
nowmefeelinitFree MemberRich – Not much help I’m afraid as I got mine from the physio I was referred to for my shoulder a while back. But what I do know from talking to the physio is that the yellow stretchy stuff is not the same as red stretchy stuff – the yellow is easier to stretch ie the red band has more resistance.
If you do end up buying off t’internet and it’s the yellow you want, don’t be tempted by another colour!
HTH. Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberChris – looking good, mate. Keep up the good work.
Ignore the (seemingly) negative comments – just read those posts as if they are the very driest forms of humour…… 😯
Make sure you post pics when finished – don’t know about anyone else but I’d like to see the finished article – always like to see what people do with their bikes, whatever they are. When finished it’ll be a really special bike to you whatever you do with it.
Oh and don’t worry about how long it takes – took me 6 months from start to (recent) finish to build my Soul and it’s all the better for it! One day I’ll get round to posting pics of mine, fully expecting a STW lambasting for yet another Soul on the Forum!
Cheers,
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI think Northwind has offered the best advice. I’ve broken ribs a couple of times with work and again more recently messing about in the snow about 8 weeks ago – managed to catch a rut in the ice in the dark going DH a little too fast on a local (gentle) hill and not-so-gracefully went base over apex as I departed the bike sideways. Pure stupidity but it was fun until my ribs snapped as I hit the ice on the side of the rut in a shower of ice and snow illuminated by high power cree LED torch-light!
At mid-forties, injuries take a little longer to heal so I was pretty sore for about 4 weeks – mainly coughing/sneezing/sitting up in bed hurt like a biatch. After 6 weeks all but fixed. Felt more painful about 1 – 2 weeks after initial injury but then started improving (slowly).
The advice on the NHS direct website is good – if in any doubt, read it and do what it says: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/rib-injuries/Pages/Introduction.aspx
But whatever happens, on a lighter note, remember that pain is just weakness leaving the body….as my PT Instructor used to tell us as he beasted us around the assault course during basic military training…… Ah, fond memories.
Hope you’re back on the MTB soon 🙂
nowmefeelinitFree MemberRubber Queen 2.2 BC on my Flow Ex rims are no problem at all. Using tubes at the moment but converting to tubeless very soon. Using Stan’s yellow tape FWIW.
nowmefeelinitFree MemberOkay, I’m a complete muppet. Turns out I’d inadvertently wound the floodgate knob too far anticlockwise and it was well and truly binding on its thread against the stop. Must have been a bit tired last night/enjoying the red wine with dinner a bit too much.
For anyone else who might be as foolish as me in the future and finds this through a Google search, I took the floodgate knob and low speed compression disc off and then re-fitted the floodgate knob. This allowed my fingers greater purchase on the floodgate knob without the low speed compression disc in the way. Then I turned the floodgate knob slowly one way then another with increasing torque in each direction alternately until the shaft began to turn.
Sorry to anyone who wasted their time reading this!
Back to the red wine, I think……..
nowmefeelinitFree MemberBump for the evening crowd – any advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberBorn near Worthing West Sussex, grew up around Bognor Regis and Chichester. University at Southampton. Then lived in:
Lincolnshire
Suffolk
Norfolk
Lincolnshire
Germany
Cambridgeshire
Lincolnshire
Cambridgeshire
Norfolk
Bedfordshireover the following 17 years plus “some” time in many countries around the world, especially hot, sunny and sandy ones ….then transitioned into the DMZ and finally settled in Cambridgeshire, with a job (and holidays) that takes us regularly to the Lakes 🙂
nowmefeelinitFree MemberBought my wife an entry level Radon ZR Lady 5.0 bike in October in white. Spec was really good for an entry level bike (even had a current XT 10 speed rear mech!) and really good VFM altogether.
Paintwork is fine – matt white finish, same as the finish on Cube bikes. As good as the finish on my (soon to be retired) Cube. Think I read somewhere that Cube might even make the frames for Radon but that’s completely hearsay.
Absolutely no snags – good bike, well finished. Go for it!
nowmefeelinitFree MemberLoving my Black Chilli Rubber Queen 2.2. Expensive but very hard wearing so worth it IMHO.
Size – being a bit of a sad git I’ve gauged mine – 55.0 mm across the carcass (the widest part on this tyre) on a 24 mm rim and 56.3 mm on a new Flow Ex rim. Also, they’re 5 mm ‘taller’ than a Mountain King Mk II 2.2 Protection if that helps. So spot on 2.2″ wide on a narrower rim but very slightly wider on the Flow Ex, and 5 mm taller than a ‘normal’ tyre.
Fits in my Reba fork but not on the back of my current hardtail – but will fit on the back of my new Soul when the frame arrives……. 😀
nowmefeelinitFree MemberMate – if you’ve decided to go pre-built Hope Hoops, have a look at bikeoulet.co.uk. Crest/Pro2 Evo pair for £269 posted.
Or wiggle – same wheelset for £293 posted.
Either would be quicker than CRC based on my recent experiences!
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI feel for you – I really do. But I don’t think you’re going to get anywhere fast pursuing either Royal Mail or CRC.
As far as Royal Mail are concerned, I think I’m correct in saying that their ‘contract’ is with the sender and not you so they won’t be interested in talking to you at all.
As for CRC, my experiences of their customer support aren’t that good, I’m afraid. Up until last summer, I thought they were great but they seem to have gone downhill since. I recently didn’t get a query resolved satisfactorily with them (stuff that wasn’t delivered that was in the sale and then not available – same scenario as you) so I submitted a customer complaint which I don’t do lightly. The complaint I submitted was extremely well mannered and thought out. Their response was more or less “tough – this is our level of service and if you don’t like it, shop somewhere else”. It was more or less that blunt. I’m now buying from elsewhere whenever I have the opportunity to do so.
The only thing I can suggest is maybe see if you can chisel a £5 or £10 gift voucher out of them to go towards your next order to ease the frustration. You might be lucky, you might not. Good luck!
nowmefeelinitFree MemberAfter a lot of research and a great deal of contemplating, I’ve just ordered a Merlin handbuilt wheel set of Flow Ex/Hope Pro 2s. Figured that hand built was worth paying for but no local (trusted) lbs to build. Having bought a load of stuff off Merlin with great service plus their reputation as a great wheel builder at not much more than factory Hope Hoops prices and less £ than the competition, seemed like a bit of a no-brainer. Well within your budget at a bit over £330 although I managed to get mine a little cheaper in the recent Xmas sale.
When I’ve had the wheels for long enough to have the benefit of hindsight I’ll let you know what I think! In the meantime, I thought very long and hard about this so hope my decision can inform yours.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberAnother vote for the Shimano dayglo green Special grease mentioned above. Very waterproof, sticky but once packed into a wheel hub bearing, spin the wheel on the axle and it just keeps spinning. Brilliant stuff.
Also use it on FSA headsets with non-sealed bearings. The waterproof/sticky quality of the grease gives me some confidence it will last a while – and it does.
Not tried TF2 though so can’t compare I’m afraid.
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI’m going to put together an all XT drivetrain on a Soul soon and I was planning on using the HG94 chain but having read the above, I’m now wondering about trying a KMC.
Are the KMC chains any better/worse/different to the HG94 in terms of performance? Not too worried about longevity as I tend to replace chains quite regularly.
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThanks Daniel – I’m with you completely on the Black Chilli flavour of Conti tyres – really don’t know how they can get the grip as good as it is but the wear rate so low. My RQ in BC compound hardly looks worn at the same mielage as I threw out my last Schwalbe. Grips miles better as well. Happy days 🙂
nowmefeelinitFree MemberThanks for the replies – much appreciated. They’ll mostly be used where the mud isn’t too sticky so should be OK, especially as they shouldn’t pick up too much mud. Think I’ll order one and have a go now I know they’re no taller than the Rubber Queen.
Cheers – Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberI use Shimano Dura-Ace Special Grease for headsets and hubs – waterproof grease that’s specifically for bike bearings. It’s what’s in Shimano wheel bearings when they leave the factory. Works a treat.
And you can feel really competent because it’s almost a flourescent green colour.
Stu
nowmefeelinitFree MemberDefinitely get the Black Chilli version whichever tyre you decide on – as someone has said, price is usually a good indicator but also check the Continental website: here. The Conti website gives a product code for each tyre, its weight, construction and ERTO number and also shows whether the tyre is Black Chilli or not. Using this info and advertised tyres’ price and description online, you can usually work out which tyre you’re looking at.
I’m not running a UST Conti but I’ve got a tubed Rubber Queen 2.2 BC up front and Mountain King Mk II Protection 2.2 BC out back. The Mountain King measures exactly 2.1″ wide so comes up narrower than advertised. In terms of performance, it isn’t anywhere near the Rubber Queen for grip – I won’t buy another Mountain King based on my experience. If you can fit the Rubber Queen 2.2 I’d definitely recommend that – will be putting a pair on my new build without hesitation – UST on the back. For info, the Rubber Queen 2.2 measures exactly 2.2″ wide but is 5 mm taller than a ‘normal’ tyre.
Purchased my Conti tyres from Bike-discount.de – excellent service, price and quick delivery. I haven’t used Next Day Tyres but have read very good reports of their service – price will be more than some online retailers but if you’re confused about which tyre is which, their website is very clear so you’ll definitely know which tyre you’re buying.
Hope this helps.
Stu