I will be sure to be genital with it as you suggest.

sounds like I need some dot 5.1 then. If this doesn’t work I guess from the guide above that it could be a seal failure and that will need a new seal and a re-build. Is this best left to a bike shop?

ah- I see screwfix have the silicon spray, I will get a can of that tomorrow

thanks for the tips. I will give that a try

thanks both.

re: lubing the piston seals. any particular lube ? shall I just take the pads out and spray something light down the side of the piston?

I’ve also found proper UST tyres to be overkill. After trying a few different brands I’ve settled on Bontrager big earl, they are quite light for a tubeless ready 2.35, about 750 g each

Also found specialized eskars good and light in this size.

When going for a small (~ 2.1 tyre) I’ve not even bothered getting tubeless ready, never caused any problems after a small dose of sealant.

a similar, but much less serious, thing happened to a mate of mine. The police took it really seriously and acted quickly. I think this is because it was relatively easy to find the person from the registration and charge them. Hope you get a good response to.

Do you have legal cover on your house insurance ? You might be able to use that to start a civil case against them if they are identified.

good luck with everything

I think it is double annoying as it is cyclists, I kind of expect it from 4x4s and pedestrians

funny that llandegla has been mentioned, does seem particularly bad for it. Usually scrotes wearing beanies in groups of about 15.

having said that my worst experience at llandegla for trail blocking was a day last winter when the olympic mtb team were training there. they acted like they owned the place and were stood on top of the dirt jumps having little discussions. annoying!

last year I met a guy at Glentress who had machined a rocker link and bolt on shock mount for an old proflex, one of the ones that originally came with a lump of elastomer at the top of the seat stays.

truly inspirational

no pictures though, sorry

it cant be a good thing. If it stays publicly owned we at least have a chance of influencing how it is used. If it is privately owned there is no way of doing that. And once sold we will never get it back.

It’s just another example of the coalition trying to destroy as much of the countries infrastructure as possible before the next election.

befuddled – sorry for your loss

I’ve taken my pride and joy to whinfell a few times now. It stays locked up inside and out of sight until i get my free morning at Whinlatter though. If you take both wheels of it just about fits into the broom cupboard !

I jumped a red light (just by a couple of seconds to get a start) and got chased and shouted at my some loony in a Passat. He was clearly so concerned for road safety issues that he felt weaving about in the road and leaning out of his window was justified.

Go figure?

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yep – apparently there is a cure, see above link. This is the only place I have seen it mentioned though, I’ve never seen these for sale, or any sort of recall or anything so I’ve no idea how you would actually get the solid rotors. I had this very same problem on some juicy 3s which ended up with me replacing them

power and modulation are superb. Reliability? People seem to have either no problem with them at all or endless problems leading to full re-builds and hate them. I cant really figure out if there is a reliabiltiy problem or not compared to other brands. There has been a documented squeek \ shudder thing that avid have released some revised discs for but I have had that on other brakes as well.

sorry, no clear answer. Mine have been great but others haven’t had the same experience

i sliced my leg open really badly when using a triple on a pitch. Never again. All the other con’s are insignificant compared to riding with a big spinning razor blade between your legs

i like the fact that they keep making parts for stuff even years later. I converted my front hope bulb to 20mm about a month ago and I dont think they have made the bulb hub for ages. Im also still running some original mini brakes, they were fitted to the bike in 2003 and I haven’t even had to bleed them

I’ve run hope \ stan’s arch on a pitch and then on my hardtail. They are great. Builds up to about a 1700g wheelset but very strong (i’m 14 stone and not very gentle with the bike and they’ve lasted about 3 years so far). They fit a 2.3 really nicely.

I’ve just bought a set of hope \ flow for no other reason than the factory built hope hoops are much cheaper than a custom build and there is no factory option of the arch.

Ive never had any problem getting tyres to fit. I tend to use Bonty tubeless.

summary – go for it, you wont be disappointed

I was starting to think it was too cold to ride but started wearing downhill kit for trail riding, feels OK to about -5 now.

Im going to miss not being able to wear the full face when it warms up again!

I put stans arch on my pitch and they have stood up to all sorts of silly crashes and some light downhilling. shame hope dont offer them as an option on hoops though

orange p7 frame, hope \ mavic wheel, marzochi comp forks and brakes\ forks on someones motorbike

:-(

Ive just been out along rivelin valley, its fine, well, a bit icy but basically fine. If you dont fancy the high peak I would guess the stuff nearer sheffield will be OK

+ 1 for tweed valley bike house. great little place to stay with good bike facilities

a rev wound down to 110 might work. Do the spring rates make sense at the lower end of the travel range? I could only find revs though that adjust between 120 and 150
on the plus side that would give me a fork that I could still use if I ever replace the frame for something more modern

ok danti, if I get chance to swing by the shop I will post an update

thank you Tiger6791, now all I have to do is find a big load of cash (perhaps convincing the mrs that this is best done before the VAT increase is an option!)

good question, i have a 20mm on my full suss and I kind of like them, feels a bit safer than a QR which I have deflected in the drop outs a couple of times

and I want to be able to swap wheels between the bikes quickly

I was thinking of a 15mm fork which seems a bit easier to find but then I couldn’t use my hope bulb wheel which only has QR or 20mm end caps

interesting. I see this is listed as 80\100\120 travel. Is there a way of adjusting between those settings? An internal spacer or something?

my frame is really old, I’m worried running at 120mm might make it handle like a chopper

horrendous. now there is another class of vehicle that scum can steal and thrash around the hillsides making a mess for everyone else. as if dirtbikes, quads and 4x4s weren’t enough

lovely. and it’s reminded that it’s been weeks and weeks since I went to Wharnecliffe. Think I will make a return visit on the weekend

I’v thought about doing this with mine but I went for a large, which I am very happy with, but it does have a long long wheelbase. I don’t really want to make it longer

OK, so I’m a bit of a numpty with a spanner but the thing that really does my head in with shimano hubs is that the bearing surface is part of the hub. and if you are, like me, a bit rubbish or lazy the bearings get dirty, pit the surface of the hub, then it’s new wheel time. cartridge bearings for me

I had exactly the same problem with a juicy 3 which I never solved, in the end I replaced the brake. I lent the brake to someone else and it worked fine for them. go figure

only problem is that I replaced the brake with an elixir so now I’m hoping I dont get a repeat performance

“should be interesting when you get a puncture without any sealant then”

I think you are still allowed to put some in if you want to

might be worth checking the caliper alignment, easy to do with Avids with that so called tri mount thing (just a concave washer as far as I can tell)

Ive used mavic rims with rim strips and also stans arch rims without rim strips. Its the best thing I ever did to my bike, fantastic. I’ve found dealing with the proper stans rims easier than the rim strip thing. The arch is so good, builds to a 1700g wheelset but still very strong. All the tips above are good but the best one is to get a small compressor, ive never needed any washing up liquid or other faff since I had one.

Anyone tried the second generation stans rims (cresta or podium I think). I hear they seal even better and you don’t even need sealant for some tyres

lifes too short for crap wobbly wheels. Deore especially, yes the hub only costs a tenner but then it ruins about 3 rides and needs replacing

sheffield definitely. You might need to trip to the lake district for the watersport thing though

my entries in! I had a ride around the area 2 weeks ago and it rained all day. hope we get some better weather this weekend

yep, I’ve had them both too big and too small I think (hence broken zips).

Agreed – the divide is definitely whether you ever have to walk ever or not

overshoes. horrible. I had about 3 pairs. They slipped off my feet everytime I had to get off the bike and scramble over rocks. The endura ones I had with zips just broke really quickly. And they slip round so the cleats dont engage properly. In the end I bought a pair of goretex shimano boots for £100, seemed expensive at the time but I am now on winter number 4 and they are starting to look like good value for money. Much better than the £60 I wasted on crappy overshoes

singlespeed? rigid? you may as well send him to school in brown flares. Admit that you built this for yourself and buy him a santa cruz v10.

Out of interest were there similar purchases made before your other 2 children went off biking?