I’ve never used UST on my stans rims. standard or TR tyres seem fine most of the time. I’ve had the odd incident when I have tried to use a very light xc tyre though.

Just Riding Along website says the same thing and those folks have a fair bit of experience with tubeless stuff

i just got my daughter a ridgeback honey, 14 inch wheels. she is only just 3 and it’s about right for her. really pleased with the bike, particularly good brakes which even her little hands can work. pink as well, which was the main thing she wanted

I started my boy on a dawes blowfish 12. he was 3 then, he is 5 now and it’s getting too small. Its a great bike, nice and light, ally frame.

It’s coming up for sale soon, let me know if you are interested (based in sheffield). Bike is silver, deliberately gender neutral.

you would have to be nuts, I used to run an old saab. bizarre and unreliable. there are many more sensible things you could spend £850 on, almost anything else in fact

my response was for Old Arch, not EX

Im 88kg, and not kind to wheels. my arch were OK on my big bike

Ive got flow, and old Arch

I run the arch on a 160mm bike, they are plenty wide enough for a 2.35 tyre, the flow are a little wider so if you want to run 2.5 that might make your mind up.

The flow hold up a bit better to abuse but I only really noticed the difference on my hardtail where the arch took a good few dings which the flow hasn’t

arch come up about 1750g I think, flow about 1900, but the weight does feel like it makes a difference.

overall I prefer the Arch on my FS bike, it feels much faster and they cope with the abuse OK for me. shame they aren’t available as factory built hope hoops though as that saves a fortune over a custom build

my last rim looked like I had taken a hammer to it it had so many dings. and it still sealed fine, I doubt a scruffy weld will make much difference

my mate had an RS6, he sold it after 2 front discs cost him 2000 Euro!

sierra cosworth RS500

just a minute, why am I getting sucked into this? you’ve got a spare 30k, good for you, keep it to yourself

I’ve tried, ‘if that dog bites me I will kick it’

just seems to escalate things unfortunately

pretend it had bitten you and tell them you were reporting them for having a dangerous dog?

I usually ride with a flashing light, and I figured it’s OK, normal slow flash with a bit of steady light in between. The other day I came across some nobber with a light that was strobing and obliterated all vision though, ridiculous. gave him a bit of full beam from the car as revenge

hey there. I bought 2 sets of the cheap ones after missing my old DX to see if they would do the same thing.

They dont, quite. They feel very different to SPDs with no cage, much more support. but they dont quite have the feel of the 747 or old DX that you could ride them unclipped.

nowhere probably, family duties (unless I can sneak an hour at wharnecliffe…)

that’s a little harsh, I always thought there was a good sense of community in Heeley

pro 11 \ crest are about 1600g I think. For £1000 you could by 2 pairs, 2 cassettes, 4 tyres and a spare set of discs and have a totally spare set of wheels

I’ve got 2 step lyrik air. The travel adjust is much more convenient and easy to use than U – turn. Overall they work brilliantly.

I find the red run and the other run next to it is rideable and plenty of may mates have ridden it on a hardtail and enjoyed it.

The stuff on the other side of the hill is too difficult for me, especially in the wet. I just slide down the mud and crash into trees

my command post has transformed my riding. I always used to ride with the seat a little low when riding off road in case I came across something interesting in the trail. Now I have my seat in a nice efficient position nearly all of time and I pedal a lot better \ faster etc and still have as much fun with the technical stuff. I wouldn’t do without one now

(edit – basically the same point 16stonepig makes above)

I’m going to press on with tubeless even after violently taking one off the rim. I pinched the inner tube I put in with 5 miles yesterday and had to mince down one of the best descents in the peaks worrying about pinching my last tube. I cant go back to doing that

depends on the route of the duathalon, I bet it wont run the course of the red route

very hilly would be my guess, theres some sharp, steep pulls up out of the valley

‘just pumped the wheels up’

nice

OK, I take it all back. I ripped my rear minion clear off the rim today coming off rushup edge in the peaks. It wasn’t even one of my trademark clumsy landings.

maybe I was a bit ambitious choosing a folding minion.

any good news for the Sheffield massive?

I got some of that muc off brake cleaner stuff to deal with some cotaminated brakes. it worked ok. you might get away without all this heat treating malarky if you are lucky

really? I just got a set and they went more or less straight on. thats from brand new though, Ive had the devils own job getting old maxxis to seal when I’ve swapped them between wheels

that rippling is strange though, I’ve burped tyres after stupid clumsy landings but never made them look like that

have you tried putting the screwdriver in just one side of the slot you have sawn and tap the bolt round gently like the screwdriver is a chisel?

could be brown pants dril time, hope your hubs aren’t expensive!

stick a set of minions on instead, mmmmm grippy

annoyingly SRAM mechs are sometimes too tight around the pivots as well when new (anyone else found this?). They free up after a few weeks but its a bit annoying when they are so expensive. I think they do work better in mud than shimano though

SRAM mechs dont IME get sloppy as quickly. But the jockey wheels seize up and then you realise it costs as much to replace the wheels as buying new x7 mech so the old mech goes in the bin. net effect – they last about the same length of time as shimano

I had a Pitch. I never serviced the forks and they died after 3 years so I kind of wish I had.

Full replacement of frame bearings used to cost me £90 from LBS and I used to need to get this done annually as the frame went all waggly (riding maybe 20 miles a week in peak district grinding mud).

I’ve got 22 \ 36. I think that is good for 9 speed, it is a big gap between the rings though. for 10 speed where you can get a 36 – 11 cassette I think 24 \ 36 would be about ideal.

for a while I was 22 \ 32 but I definitely missed the gears at the top, especially on the road

are these CR ones? (think I just saw your name on another post?) If so you have a bit of adjustment on the how close the pad is to the disc on the barrel adjustester on the lever body just before the hose.

So my advice would be to try and line it up as best as possible by eye (be gentle when you tighten the caliper bolts or you pull it out of alignment) then try and retract the pad with the barrel adjuster a little if you still get rub. If that fails go for a ride and use them a bit, then repeat.

I went for an SLX 36t, about £30 I think but it looks hardly worn after 18 months of riding. Merlin have them I think.

on the CR it is the little black serrated wheel (I think it is metal on the CR though). It has a slightly indexed feel and you should be able to see it moving the lever a few mm when you rotate it

enduros are expensive, I think you have the right to expect it to be perfect when you get it. Maybe they could give you a new stay to keep as a spare until you have the frame bearings changed for the first time, that would be a bonus for you and a cheaper fix for the manufacturer \ shop than replacing the whole bike

I’ve only ever been up the huge bridleway, even that is steep and becomes unrideable (for me) fairly quickly though. It does make for a relatively easy push up given the height you are gaining though.

Have you been up there before? i went up in April, the wind was so strong at the top I had to crawl pulling the bike behind me, and that was on a relatively calm day. Keep a god eye on the weather if you are going up at this time of year

why dont you buy a new e-type front mech, use the little parts and keep the mech for a spare? SLX e-type mechs on CRC for £24.

its an expensive fix but better value long term than paying £5 for 2 tiny bits of metal

thats good to hear, I assumed it would be a mudpit, might give it a go at the weekend

I can understand why people want to try things like this, everyone who rides a bike wants to push their skills a little. what I cant understand is why anyone would try that without a full face helmet, never mind none at all. surely that is what they are designed for