I went to Grizedale recently. £5.50 for a days parking, seems a total rip for such a crappy trail. I can understand why people would dodge it.

having said that one thing that really gets me is people parking in the passing bays at llandegla. parking is reasonable there especially considering how much work they put in and making it impossible to drive up the road seems really tight

my mate bought one and some seal kept working loose making it seize up. or something like that. he used it for 3 months and binned it. and he doesn’t have a reputation for being wasteful with his cash if you know what I mean.

Is this for your SX trail build? What about this deal on SLX with the bash included:http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28019

Only £90. At this price I am thinking of buying one as a spare

sounds good, I plan to check this out next week. good work

just nipped out for a ride and nearly got totalled by a fat angry tool in a white van. It is clearly the week for it

come on, name and shame, on youtube and we can all spend Friday finding ways to get the company name top of the google search list for the wrong reasons

Im a couple of miles away from you, I will keep my eyes open. You should have a tour around the cash converters and the other shops that seem to be used purely by scum to fence things, the one in Hillsboro and the one on west street often have bikes outside

are you referring to some new building ? i’ve not been up there for a couple of months…..

sorry hainman, we got off the point

summary – swap them, it’s easy

i had a pitch. it was good at xc. especially with some light wheels and sensible (~2.3) tyres on it. i thought it pedalled really well even without the propedal on.

then I bought a new enduro. that was a little less good at xc. then I put 2.5 USTs on it and that really slowed it down.

2 set of wheels is what you need.
and an uplift for when the bike is in heavy mode.

yep. same for me. and I am rubbish with a spanner. you might get away without bleeding, i did recently

And if you do need to bleed it is pretty easy (the new kit from epic bleed solutions looks good if you need one)

thanks Paul. How do I work out the range? Is it the difference between the smallest chainring + smallest back cog and the biggest chainring + biggest back cog?

22 front + 11 rear = 33
36 front + 34 rear = 70

range = 37. So I should be fine?

I went for e) when it happened to me. I was really annoyed when it happened again the week after.

just had a look at the smorgasboard, they aren’t the same as minions. seem like good value \ weight for the price though

swingbin – are you sure re: yellow tape? I got this from JRA website:

“No need for a rim strip – just use the Universal valve”

http://www.justridingalong.com/wheel-parts/rims/flow-ex.html

I took that to mean it was fully sealed, like mavic

if you dont like faffing with yellow tape I think the new flow EX have a sealed rim bed like mavic 819s

I had the same problem with 2.35 minion rear, fine for cross country but a little unreliable for down hill (especially for heavy sideways landings which are my speciality).

I’m on 2.5 UST now and they have survived all sorts of incidents.

and you do need a wider rim, perhaps a chance to run big tyres on a wide rim a lighter tyres on your 819s?

supertacky minion. a little draggy on tarmac and fireroads, and they do wear a little quickly. But stick amazingly, especially on rocks. and suprising light (though I wouldn’t suggest the kevlar version if you are tubeless, didn’t work so well for me.)

Edit – £25 on CRC, a little over budget

200 lumens ? I couldn’t find the kettle on a dark morning with that.

a tape measure will do, the difference is quite large. measure the hole in the fork or the axle

I rode 3 of the UK gravity enduro series this year. I started wearing one of these :

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25068

It felt like too much of a penalty on the sections with fireroad sprints though (i’m not that fit and I was struggling to breathe.

So I switched to a met parachute, but I felt outright frightened in that some of the time, especially dyfi.

I’m glad that proper full face is compulsory next year, everyone will be in the same position and I wont be tempted to run a ridiculous, unsuitable helmet

peace to you and your family brother. nothing else we can say. take care

I approached them for a new front triangle for a 2 year old pitch. They wanted £400 and seemed to think I should be viewing that as a bargain, I thought it was a little steep tbh. I didn’t bother in the end.

Mine was clearly crash damage though, rather than a potential warrenty issue. You might get on a little better, I think the front triangles have a reasonable guarentee on them.

£190 for a pair from Merlin:

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/brakes/disc-brakes/shimano-disc-brakes/shimano-xt-m785-disc-brake-set-front-rear-black.html

I moved to xt 785s due to avid reliability issues. They are really easy to set up and bleed. I broke a lever in a crash and it took about 10 mins to fit a new one and bleed. I also like that parts are available and relatively cheap (£35 for new XT lever from CRC)

Since then I have bought a set of new SLX as well, which are also good although they dont have the bite point adjust. I shortened the hose on these and they didn’t even need bleeding.

Power and modulation on both sets are excellent. Good price too on Merlin. £150 a pair for SLX, £200 per pair for XT

good review, thats me totally sold. I’m getting one.

elliot-20 – can you give me some more details on the clamp that you used and how you made it fit the c and b light?

the shimano xt levers are nice and small, but I find the way the cam works mean that they move quite a lot before they bite and i cant get mine that close to the bar, even with the adjust screw right in. I’ve not tried overfilling them like some folks above have though.

I read in an MBR review that one of the XTR levers (trail or race but I cant remember which) worked without a cam in it, might be worth trying to get some of those?

thanks all.

good advice,

and I sent a text, hopefully I am on the bus

the track I did was obviously not called K-hole then, it sort of sneaked off into the trees after the first jump on the 4x track. kind of rooty, good fun, in a scary way

top, I like uplifts, thanks for the contact info

I road a couple of the tracks during the gravity enduro, K-hole (i think) and another fairly tame one that went from a track to the right of the 4x track.

I’m still learning the gravity stuff, is there anything I should be avoiding, anything with big unexpected drops for example?

thats the number i tried, dead tone

i wondering if the c and b seen 1200 looks slightly better, for a little more money:

http://www.candb-seen.co.uk/bikehead-lights/cabs-02-series—cree-xml.html

yoshimi – have you checked the just riding along website enduro wheel builder? Pro II \ stans build with Sapim come in a very reasonable £320. Its not the cheapest but not bad for hand built \ high quality and good service

andyl – I very rarely had no problems with old Arch, and the new Arch are 3 mm wider internally I think. If you have them I would use them and feel smug about the light weight. Unless you plan to race downhill I think you will be fine

ive had kevlar maxxis non UST suddenly give way on heavy landings. it was a bit scary as I was going quite fast at the time and the tyre wrapping up around the hub caused a sudden stop.

no problems with wire bead maxxis though

new flows have a totally sealed rim bed I think, like 819s. and are wider as well.

the only problem, how on earth can i justify new arch and new flow when I have a set of old arch and old flow.

to be fair the arch are now on Mrs nosedives bike so that might help……

I find below 25 psi some tyres can feel a bit squirmy on the rim, even wide rims. I usually run 27 front, 29 rear or something similar

jacobs ladder eats tyres, tubes and wheels. it owes me loads of all 3, especially tubes.

I thought that the new version of Arch had the new type of bead hook that was supposed to be more reliable than the old version (despite the fact they are shallower)

munrobiker – there are some exciting bits of track into, and out of rivelin if you know where to look……..

I actually agree with the OP on this one. I for one am much less likely to be seen with a map these days.

I think I simply have less time, and I am fatter, and I have a bigger bike. It all adds up to not really wanting to spend 5 hours trudging through a bog to figure out what a certain piece of trail is like.

I’m much more likely to go to Greno \ wharnecliffe \ parkwood \ bolehill \ some trail centre and at least know I will be able to get the wheels off the ground

i hoped this thread would be about beer too. shame on you

a positive thread for a Friday ! I like it

Just Riding Along – for fixing things at the last minute, before a holiday when I had destroyed a wheel, and for arguing my case with Hope to get a brand new hub after a failure

Hope – for giving me the brand new hub above

Langset cycles – for valiantly keeping a 10 year old wheel on the road for pennies one spoke at a time, eventually refusing to accept payment as they couldn’t quite get the wheel staight (the wheel lasted another 10 months!)

Edinburgh cyles in Sheffield – for fixing my enduro and generally not being JE James

that el guapo at £2000 with Lyriks and a reverb is great value. want

the route that was used as the championship XC course is good, technically difficult in places with some good features. Short though.

The red route is OK, but quite long and a bit repetitive, it can be a bit of a grind towards the end. You might want to find a way to cut it short if some of your party aren’t so fit