or maybe your mech just got old and saggy and it isn’t doing its job any more

i think you have 2 options here,

1) maybe the indexing isnt really spot on and you need to adjust the cable tension so there is less cable tension. try moving the barrel adjuster a bit and seeing if you can find a place where the mech moves both ways happily

2) the indexing is good, but for some reason the spring in the mech isn’t pulling the cable properly. This could be due to worn outer \ frayed inner, the inner cable just needing a clean and lube, inner cable is kinked somewhere inside the outer casing, or maybe the cable routing is causing a problem and some of the bends in the outer cable are a bit sharp.

good review here: http://www.bike198.com/review-pacenti-tl28-26er-mountain/

the description of the TL28 on just riding along is significantly different to the one on superstar.

I was hoping these might be exactly what I needed but now I’m thinking that I would smash them to bits in fairly short order

i bought the little shimano funnel and a shimano squeezy bottle and hose. very easy.

tbh this kit looks better though and negates the need for funnel buying, or bottle squeezing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epic-Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-2012-on-Funnel-Deore-Saint-XT-SLX-XTR-/170971712417?pt=UK_Spots_Leisure_Cycling_Tools_RepairKits&hash=item27ceb54ba1

you could get these bits cheaper separately, but can you be assed for £11.70?

ive just changed mech on a 36/ 22 and 11-34 2×9 set up. I used a medium cage (GS) Saint mech and it only just had enough capacity to take up all the chain

i got mine set up fine without rubbing and that is with 3x front shifter and 3x front mech with the movement limited with the stop screw

superstar organic have been as good as the original shimano ones for me

if you really believe it was not your fault, why dont you just refuse to pay on those grounds and if she doesn’t agree she can take you to a small claims court.

she has your contact details so you can’t be accused of leaving the scene or anything like that.

the next move is hers, just see what she does

I had this problem after a crash. took me a while but I eventually realised that the lever had rotated and the bottom of the lever pivot was pressing on the gear lever. When I moved it back it was fine. If you are very lucky that might be the problem.

I’ve had the same problem since and it wasn’t related to the lever position, I put some wd40 on the pivot and worked the lever for 5 mins and it was ok then, I think I might have been a bit careless with a jet wash on that occastion. Good luck!

another frame for life that is a write off, I’ve been put right off Ti frames with all these stories

something will come along again. OK, its a nice bike and a good price, but it’s not like it had the top spec.

If it had a reverb, hope hubs a 36 Float on the front maybe it would be crying time

i had successfully deleted my email and blanked this whole thing from my memory. thanks a lot, now I am going to spend the whole weekened wondering how I could justify one of those downhill bikes

hammer pants, loose round the knacker area, tight around the chainring area. I think we have a solution

not too middle class for you puppywillow?

I thought you had dismissed us all as ass lickers and middle class snobs? and now you want clothing advice? sheesh

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/stw-forum-users-only-3-of-the-mountain-bike-community

one of them….right, they are different width either side on bulbs, I remember now

cheers!

re: the 15mm adaptor hijack…

15mm Pro II end caps and go at them with a hacksaw you say….like your thinking

I was also thinking of turning (well, asking my dad to turn) a sleeve of the correct width, 15mm internal diamter, 20mm external diamater and tapping it into the 20mm adaptor. Surely this cant fail

then I would just have to hope that Mrs nosedive doesn’t notice that the nice front wheel off her xc bike has been replaced with a downhill wheel

i can understand why it would do peoples head in. I find that some of the flashing lights used in traffic have become so bright they are just dazzling, it can be counter productive

entries open 1 Feb apparently

link to a suggested way of doing the best of the red and the black is here:

http://www.mtbtrails.info/Trail_Venue_Map_TrailViewer.aspx?VenueNumber=72&TrailNumber=129&Unique=634763016575745130

I never tried it but it seems to cut out a big pointless loop of fire road

hamsterly is top. If you like the gravity stuff the Descend bike park is excellent with a good range of tracks from swoopy \ jumpy all the way up to proper scary

tymbian – the length of the mech arm dictates the range of gears that the mech will cope with. the medium saint just works with my double chainring set up (36 – 22 up from, 11- 34 at the back with a chain device to take up some of the slack) but it wouldn’t cope with a triple I dont think.

I am not sure but I think the short cage would only really be suitable for a single ring set up.

for the price of a carbon bike you could keep your enduro and buy a second hand camper van to sleep in at races

sorry, did that sound like jealousy ;-)

and yes, if you are looking for total reliability chain device + bash is definitely the way to go. I have a Gamut double on mine which works pretty well but the set up was a bit fiddly

I just did the swap you are about to do. You will need to change to levers though as 9 speed Shimano pulls a different amount of cable to the SRAM.

I love my new Saint 810 mech though. It holds the chain much better and moves quicker than the X0 9 speed I took off. Be warned though…. it is a bit of a lump compared to the X0 mech but I like the fact it is solid and a looks a bit less delicate. Saint 810 you can get in short or medium cage, I went for medium which is about the same size as a medium SRAM.

I’ve never used a clutch mech though so I can’t advise if that difference is worth it enough to spend the extra on 10 speed parts

doesn’t flow EX have the new generation bead socket? I think it is supposed to me more reliable than the old one. might be worth giving the yellow tape another go.

as to your original question though….sorry, don’t know.

+ 1 for binners pedal suggestion. The metal cage seems to give a little bit of extra support, I really like mine and put them on both my bikes. and they are relatively cheap as well (~ £30)

I used to have some 647 (I think) with the plastic cage and I dont think they gave anything extra in terms of support, and they were more expensive

if you are looking for a burly set of 150mm forks the Sektor at Merlin look really good value at £225. 20mm maxle and not even that heavy.

it would save you messing with the travel in your Fox

looks nice, pricey though. What the dropper post market really needs is someone to put out a nice cheap one that is good enough

hope hoops are great value if you can stretch to £280 or so……. all nice standard parts but the value of a factory build. On Stans Flow if you like smashing into things, on Crest if you are into pedalling a long way.

If you can afford a custom build I also suggest Just Riding Along. They do a really good build but will also generally help you out with stuff when things break. I turned up at his place once on a Friday lunchtime with a tangle of spokes and rim, explained I was leaving for Dalbeattie the next morning and he fixed the wheel for me in about 3 hours. Can’t beat that.

Spesh Enduro (clue’s in the name!)

90 miles, nice!!

I just did a 45 minutes loop around Rivelin Valley. Had 2 beers while I was getting cleaned up and now I’m on the champagne.

Happy new year Singletrack!!!

mine looks nothing like that, and Ive been using a Deore cassette.

+ 1 for a run of Ti ones, I’m still running a hope bulb hub that I bought second hand about 10 years ago and the freehub is fine

and while they are at it they could knock up some bulb 15mm front adaptors and I would be a happy boy

if you can afford it definitely thule aero bars for the reasons above, you get so much more clamping area.

I use the cheaper thule carrier (freeride 531 or something). The clamp is less fancy but I think the design is more secure as it goes around both sides of the downtube rather than the design that clamps top and bottom, my friends bike slipped sideways and came out of one of those.

I have had no trouble getting the bikes into the freeride carrier, everything from 12 inch wheel kids bikes to a Patriot and everything in betweeen

i just did this on a new build and got the shimano ‘front’ post to post adaptor. fitted fine. Post is always the same size

I’m facing the exact same question (though my P7 is 2003 I think).

I keep coming back to the Orange Crush, ticks all of the above boxes and cheap frames seem to come up every so often

if you like being able to walk and speak you need to take it apart and have a look

I’ve had this problem, and I realised, after I destroyed a wheel, that the b limit screw (think that is what it is called, the one that tensions the mech) was screwed too far in. the jockey wheel was too far away from the cassette and the chain jumped around and off the 34t cog.

an expensive lesson for me

wharnecliffe will be like a muddy cliff in this weather. hope you can ride!!!!

there is one track that holds up pretty well though as its rocky, it is the one that singletraction built, I think it is call fastracks or something. It has a steep rocky chute straight from the fireroad and is pure rock for the first section, that is where I head in the wet.

It is too hard to describe how to get there in text but the locals are friendly, ask for directions from anyone wearing a full face

happy christmas singletrack!

I just got a saint mech for christmas ……mmmmmm lovely